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March 2004 - Society for California Archaeology

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24<br />

Articles<br />

Indians’ Hidden<br />

Paintings Open<br />

Window Into S.F.’s<br />

Sacred Past<br />

Carl Nolte, Chronicle Staff Writer<br />

Reprinted by permission<br />

from the San Francisco Chronicle<br />

Kristina Craw<strong>for</strong>d<br />

Two young men, one an artist, the other an<br />

archaeologist, crawled over the ancient redwood<br />

beams of San Francisco’s Mission Dolores earlier<br />

this month, opened a trap door, lowered an electric light into<br />

a space behind the main altar — and stared into the 18th<br />

century. There, in a space thick with the dust of centuries and<br />

dark as a tomb, is a wall of nearly <strong>for</strong>gotten religious murals,<br />

painted in red, black and yellow by Native Americans in<br />

1791 and hidden from public view <strong>for</strong> 208 years.<br />

The two — freelance artist Ben Wood, 23, and Presidio of<br />

San Francisco archaeologist Eric Blind, 29 — have<br />

rediscovered the old murals, have taken digital photographs<br />

of them, and are projecting the images on the inside of the<br />

dome of the modern Mission Dolores Basilica next door <strong>for</strong><br />

all to see. The display runs through Feb. 7.<br />

Only part of the murals has been photographed, and the<br />

pictures show two representations of the Sacred Heart of<br />

Jesus, penetrated by swords and daggers. There are also<br />

decorative swirls and patterns, and apparently more Roman<br />

Catholic religious symbols are still hidden in the dark. Some<br />

niches there contained statues at one time. The murals,<br />

apparently painted with colors made from natural dyes on the<br />

site, are the work of the native people of San Francisco,<br />

Ohlone and other tribes that lived at the Spanish mission.<br />

The murals have been seen only by a handful of people since<br />

they were blocked from view when a new and elaborate<br />

altarpiece was installed with great ceremony in 1796. The old<br />

murals were left in the dark, effectively walled off. Only<br />

workers and extraordinarily nimble clergy or historians could<br />

even find them.<br />

Now, Blind said, anyone can see them. “They are a<br />

fascinating look into the nexus of history,’’ he said.<br />

Displaying the work “is of extraordinary significance,’’ said<br />

Brother Guire Cleary, curator of Mission Dolores. “It is the<br />

best-preserved example of art from the period of first contact<br />

with Europeans that I am aware of,’’ said Andrew Galvan, an<br />

Ohlone Indian who will succeed Cleary as curator next<br />

month.<br />

Mission San Francisco de Asis was founded in June 1776<br />

near an Indian village on a lagoon the Spanish called Nuestra<br />

Senora de los Dolores — Our Lady of Sorrows. Franciscan<br />

friars, using native labor, built a permanent mission building<br />

in 1790 at the corner of what is now 16th and Dolores streets.<br />

At that time, San Francisco was the northern frontier of the<br />

Spanish empire, the very edge of the European world in<br />

North America. Mission Dolores, as it came to be called, was<br />

built of adobe with roof beams of redwood tied together with<br />

rawhide thongs.<br />

“It was built by Ohlone slave labor,’’ said Galvan, who is<br />

descended from an Indian baptized in Mission Dolores in<br />

1801. The original redwood beams are still visible in the<br />

mission attic, tied together with rawhide. “My ancestors did<br />

good work,’’ he said.<br />

SCA Newsletter 38(1)

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