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Recycling of Low Grade Clothing Waste - Oakdene Hollins

Recycling of Low Grade Clothing Waste - Oakdene Hollins

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© <strong>Oakdene</strong> <strong>Hollins</strong> Ltd, Salvation Army Trading Company Ltd<br />

Nonwovens Innovation & Research Institute Ltd September 2006<br />

• The study finds that a “national wardrobe” exists which represents a<br />

considerable tonnage <strong>of</strong> latent waste material. It is necessary to<br />

establish the actual level <strong>of</strong> this stock.<br />

• Many LCA studies focus on carbon impacts <strong>of</strong> waste streams. We<br />

should consider the case for economic instruments for clothing from a<br />

resource conservation, rather than a pollution, impact perspective<br />

(which is the traditional driver for producer responsibility measures).<br />

• There is little evidence <strong>of</strong> “closed loop” recycling, whereby recycled<br />

fibres are used in the manufacture <strong>of</strong> new clothing in the place <strong>of</strong> virgin<br />

fibres. Based on the experience <strong>of</strong> the paper making industry, it is<br />

important to understand the reasons for this and to undertake<br />

comparative LCA studies.<br />

• To improve understanding <strong>of</strong> the secondary market dynamics it is<br />

important to determine the degree to which second hand clothing acts<br />

a substitute for new clothing in secondary markets.<br />

• The technical and market development work in this project, which has<br />

reached the stage <strong>of</strong> identifying a number <strong>of</strong> new high value<br />

applications for recycled textiles, requires to be continued. More<br />

investment is needed to turn these into commercial reality. We need to<br />

view these items as a raw material and show “industry” how to make<br />

use <strong>of</strong> them.<br />

• A key point is the collection system. This not only applies to textiles but<br />

increasingly to all secondary use materials. We need to understand the<br />

true economies <strong>of</strong> resource management and not just look at the<br />

collection cost, but the overall cost to UK plc.<br />

• Textile manufacturers, designers, retailers and the secondary textile<br />

industry need to be encouraged to work together to address, and to<br />

develop solutions to, the issues raised by this report. To this end some<br />

projects are identified for further collaborative work aimed at<br />

improving the sustainability <strong>of</strong> the wider textile industry.<br />

For Defra Page 14

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