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Recycling of Low Grade Clothing Waste - Oakdene Hollins

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© <strong>Oakdene</strong> <strong>Hollins</strong> Ltd, Salvation Army Trading Company Ltd<br />

Nonwovens Innovation & Research Institute Ltd September 2006<br />

Each volume includes a conclusions section, references and appendices,<br />

where appropriate, for each element <strong>of</strong> the project. Overall project findings<br />

and proposals are set out below, with key messages and data gaps that<br />

need to be filled, shown in bold type.<br />

1.3 Findings<br />

1.3.1 Economic and Market Analysis<br />

General<br />

The findings <strong>of</strong> this market study independently confirm that a<br />

combination <strong>of</strong> increasing affluence and lower prices <strong>of</strong> clothing and<br />

other textiles is causing a significant increase in the volume <strong>of</strong> textile<br />

products consumed in the UK. Specifically, new clothing sales volumes<br />

in the UK have increased by 60% in ten years. This has the potential to<br />

greatly increase the volume <strong>of</strong> textiles in the waste stream if all the new<br />

textiles consumed were discarded to waste. The secondary textile<br />

industry, which operates in a free market, collects just 17% <strong>of</strong> all textiles<br />

consumed domestically, with the balance being either stockpiled or<br />

discarded to the household waste stream.<br />

The study also confirms adverse perceptions within the secondary textiles<br />

industry <strong>of</strong> the economic and market situation and the impact <strong>of</strong> the ending<br />

<strong>of</strong> the Multi‐Fibre Arrangement. Although the industry is currently<br />

enjoying firm prices for used clothing, particularly in Eastern European<br />

markets, arising from the shortage <strong>of</strong> suitable quality material, these are<br />

seen as being short‐lived. In the longer term there is likely to be a decline<br />

due to falling prices in new clothing coupled with reducing product<br />

quality <strong>of</strong> used clothing being collected, and rising costs at all levels.<br />

Indeed, prices <strong>of</strong> new clothing are likely to continue to fall over the next<br />

five years. This has a double effect <strong>of</strong> placing higher volumes and lower<br />

qualities <strong>of</strong> used clothing on the markets which in turn is driving used<br />

clothing prices down thus affecting the long term viability <strong>of</strong> the textile<br />

recycling industry.<br />

Charity shops are responding by moving into the sale <strong>of</strong> alternative used<br />

products, such as books, toys and electronic media and into new products<br />

such as greeting cards and fair trade commodities. As a result, they are<br />

reducing the percentage <strong>of</strong> sales from used clothing. Some textile<br />

merchants are responding by closing down sorting activities and by<br />

shipping unsorted material directly to overseas traders or to sorting<br />

operations in low labour cost countries.<br />

For Defra Page 7

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