2010年7月 - The Hong Kong General Chamber of Commerce

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In an age when everyone wants to experience “new” tastes, traditional
dishes continue to give people something new to talk about
款 式 多 多 的 Antipasto、 千 變 萬 化 的 各 種 Pasta 都 是 每 家 Trattoria 家 庭 式 意 大 利 餐 廳 的 基 本 動 作 ,
但 做 得 好 不 好 則 取 決 於 所 選 材 料 和 配 搭 功 力 , 還 有 廚 師 對 烹 調 的 熱 情 。 一 些 看 似 平 凡 的 傳 統 家
鄉 菜 , 往 往 也 會 帶 來 驚 喜 。
By Gerry Ma 馬 桂 榕
Italian cuisine, for me, is a fusion of dishes from
around the country. The long, boot-shaped peninsula’s
climate means that food differs greatly
from north to south, with each region – even town
– boasting its own specialties.
Many Italian restaurants in Hong Kong offer
a wide range of dishes to cater to all tastes. They
are usually a mixture of Trattoria (informal Italian
restaurant) and Pizzeria (pizza house) serving
well-known Italian favourites. The Ristorante, on
the other hand, is usually a fine dining restaurant
where prices tend to be on the high side.
A good combination of the three is Osteria,
located in the Holiday Inn Golden Mile. The first
time that I tried this restaurant, I wanted to order
AOP (spaghetti aglio olio e peperoncino) to test
the quality of its dishes. But with so many special
dishes on the menu, like gnocchi (potato dumplings),
octopus salad and the very traditional Sicilian
deep-fried beef and cheese rice ball, I decided
to be adventurous.
To start, we ordered lobster linguini with cauliflower
& muggine, and clams linguini with a
slightly spicy tomato sauce as our primi piatto
(pasta course), and the old fashioned brick roasted
baby rooster as a main course.
When the waiter learned that I was interested
in old fashioned cuisine, he suggested that I try
the “Today’s Special,” which on the day that we
visited was sea bass baked in a good old fashioned
salt crust.
For the antipasto (starter), the restaurant offers
a wide selection of salads and appetizers at their
buffet bar, which we decided to try. Among the 20-
plus selections, I chose a little Parma ham, grilled
eggplant, Italian cucumber and assorted peppers,
with some ready-mixed rocket and Romaine lettuce.
You could say these were nothing out of the
ordinary, but all were extraordinarily fresh. Even
the honeydew melon that goes with the Parma
ham was running with juice and flavour. The
Michele Camolei, Osteria’s Head Chef
Michele hails from Tuscany, Italy, and has
worked with Two-Star Michelin Chef Claudio
Sadler in the renowned Ristorante Sadler in
Tokyo. He also helped the Restaurant Sant
Pau in Tokyo earn its two Michelin Stars.
來 自 意 大 利 Tuscany 家 鄉 , 曾 於 東 京 著 名 米 芝 蓮 兩 星
餐 廳 Ristorante Sadler 與 兩 星 大 廚 Claudi
作 , 及 後 更 為 東 京 Restaurant Sant Pau 取 得 米
兩 星 榮 譽 。
28 July 2010 The Bulletin 工 商 月 刊