09.11.2012 Views

Edited by Rachel Duncan 4th Edition ISBN 0-907649-91-2 London ...

Edited by Rachel Duncan 4th Edition ISBN 0-907649-91-2 London ...

Edited by Rachel Duncan 4th Edition ISBN 0-907649-91-2 London ...

SHOW MORE
SHOW LESS

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.

3.5.5 Head and face<br />

Campcraft, Equipment and Clothing 27<br />

The head and neck area has a large number of blood vessels and little fatty tissue. It is<br />

therefore a great centre for heat loss. Up to 20% of body heat can be lost from the head<br />

under some circumstances. Ears, nose and cheeks are particularly vulnerable to frostbite.<br />

Traditional protection is the ubiquitous balaclava, available in wool, various pile<br />

and fleece materials as well as silk, and is excellent protection for the nose, cheeks and<br />

ears. Balaclavas roll up to just protect the top of the head. A hat should be big enough to fit<br />

over a balaclava and preferably have ear flaps and be windproof. A variety of headgear to<br />

suit all situations is the ideal. A neck gaiter or thin scarf can form the seal between hat and<br />

upper body wear. In extreme cold, a neoprene face mask and goggles can effectively cover<br />

the face leaving no flesh exposed.<br />

If you wear spectacles make sure your goggles will fit over and if you have<br />

prescription sun glasses ensure they give 100% ultra-violet (UV) protection and do not<br />

allow light to enter from the side.<br />

With the high UV levels in polar regions, a sun hat may also be necessary. Always<br />

carry at least two pieces of eye protection and wear one or the other in most conditions.<br />

Snow blindness can occur even on dull days and after only short exposure. It can last for<br />

days. In an emergency, the balaclava can be worn over the eyes or goggles fashioned out<br />

of rubber/cardboard/material can be worn with only a tiny slit necessary to see.<br />

3.5.6 Hands<br />

Keeping the fingers together in mitts is better protection that separating them in gloves. In<br />

particularly severe conditions, the combination of silk gloves, inside fleece or oiled<br />

woollen mitts, inside a windproof outer mitt may be necessary. Mitts are available which<br />

allow the thumb and fingers to be poked out for use, and, with silk gloves on, fine<br />

manipulative work can still be undertaken. Thin inner fleece gloves wick moisture better<br />

than silk.<br />

A tape harness system or elastic wrist loops are useful to keep the mitts at hand<br />

height when the hands need to be out of them for working. To lose hand-wear is to court<br />

disaster; thought must be given on how not to do so. A sock can serve as a mitt.<br />

Again, even with a variety of gloves you will probably find there is no perfect<br />

combination/solution. Be careful not to use bare hands and fingers on cold objects (not just<br />

metal). They could freeze to the object and you will lose skin if you try to tear it away.<br />

Instead use a warm liquid (possibly urine will be most readily accessible) to help free the<br />

frozen area.<br />

3.5.7 Feet<br />

Skiing, climbing with crampons, dog sledding, standing whilst tending instruments,<br />

sledge-hauling and driving snowmobiles may all call upon different types of footwear,<br />

though expediency may demand that one type serves several uses.

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!