Smithsonian - Perishable Pundit

Workers harvest artichokes at Ocean Mist Farms in California American agriculture depends on the skillsof migrant laborers, who continue to struggle for economic rights and adequate working conditionstake the time to cook at home or to dine outin ethnic and independent restaurants, the foodisthought out and delicious. We have artisanalc heese makers, local organic farmers, even moregreat grocery and ethnic stores than most of usever dreamed of. The world is at our fingertips,and it is a pleasure to cook. The very nature ofAmerica has become global, and this is reflectedin our food. Chef Daniel Boulud calls today'scooking "world" cuisine. He is not very far offT his revolution has come at a time whenmuch ot the news about food is less encouraging.During a visit to the Missouri countryside,1 stopped m at a mega-supermarketin a small town surrounded by farmland. Tomy surprise, m the midst of fieldsof freshstrawberries and fish streams overflowing withtrout, I found that everything in the marketwas plastic and processed. 1 thought aboutthe author Barbara Kingsolver's comment,"Many adults. I'm convinced, believethat food comes from grocery stores."In a similar vein, my son 1 )avid, whendiscussing the "American" book on whichthis Festival program is based, s.nd that 1 haveto include Cheese Whiz and McDonald's.No, Idon't. We know about the downside ofAmerican food today—the growing powerot fastfood chains and agribusiness, peoplenot eatmg together as a family, food thatisdenatured, whole processed microwavemeals, and the TV couch potato syndrome.1 have instead focused on the positive. Inpreparation tor my forthcoming book. The NewAmanan Cooking, and the Festival 1 have crisscrossedthis country from California to Alaskaand Hawai'i to New England and have enteredkitchens, farms, processing plants, and restaurants,seeking out the recipes and the peoplewho have made American food what it is today.1 have tried to show a fair selection ot what1 have seen, interviewing people in 40 statesthroughout our great country. 1 have brokenbread in the homes of new immigrants suchas Hmongs of Minnesota and Ecuadoreans inNew [ersey. 1 have noticed how, at Thanksgiving,the turkey Atid stuffings have been enhancedby the diverse flavors now available in thiscountry. Accompanying the very Americanturkey or very American Tofurky will be springrolls, stuffed grape leaves, or oysters, all holidayfoods from an assortment of foreign lands.That is American food today.SMITHSONIAN FOLKLIFE FESTIVAL