I--IPot Pie Farm manager Elizabeth Beggins sells organicvegetables, garlic, onions, herbs, and cut flowers atthe St. Michaels FreshFarm Market in Maryland.Hmong farmers are thriving, selling theirfresh produce at the Minneapolis andSt Paul farmers markets.Critics argued that while these largecorporate farms raising single commoditiesmight have been good at supplying singlecrops to faraway producers, they underminedrural ways of life, environmental quality, andfood diversity. Over the course of the secondhalf of the 20th century, more and moreAmericans have agreed. They have becomeand other herbs. In Maryland, West Africantanners grow chilis. With the number ot Asianimmigrants rising sharply 111 Massachusetts, theUniversity ot Massachusetts^ extension servicehas w uiked with tanners to ensure that vegetablestraditional to Cambodian. Chinese, and Thaidiets are available through local fanners markets.1 he organic farming movement is anotherincreasingly interested in a more diverse foodtrend that has played amajor role. The rootssupply and are more engaged in questioningwhat is retened to as their food chain—thepath their food travels from farm to table.ot modern organic tanning are 111 a holisticview ot agriculture inspired by British agronomistAlbert Howard, whose An AgriculturalSeveral trends have supported areturn toTestament conceived ot soil as a system thatdiversity and sustainability.The wave of recentimmigrants from countries around the worldhas brought their food-growing traditions tothe United States. Small-scale growers havesought new models of agriculture in order toremain economically viable and to promoteneeded to be built over time. Nutritional andgood-tastmg food would come from healthysi>il I loward's ideas were popularized in theUnited States in the middle of the 20th centuryby J.I.Rodale and his son Robert Rodalethrough their magazines and organic gardeningthe crop diversity on which the diverse dietsguides. In the[960s, the counterculture readoutlined above depend. The increased diversityof American food can be seen in crops that areplanted inhome gardens and on farms. In San1 )iego, ( 'alifornia, Vietnamese gardens coverfront lawns with banana trees, lemonerass,Rodale and saw organic tanning as a way toorganize society in harmony with nature and111 rebellion against industrial capitalism.At the same time, the Peace Corps andthe declining cost ot travel abroad "ave manySMITHSONIAN FOLKLIFE FESTIVAL
Americans a window onto cultures and foodways in tarawaycountries, leading them to question the distant relationshipbetween themselves and the growing ot their food. Like JuliaChild, others had become fascinated with French cooking whenliving in Paris. While Julia strove to demystify academic Frenchcooking for an American audience, Montessori-teacher-turnedchefAlice Waters brought French provincial traditions of buyingfresh ingredients locally and sitting down for leisurely mealsback to the United States. On her return from France, whereshe spent a year traveling, she opened the northern Californiarestaurant Chez Panisse. It became the center ot a movementto serve only locally grown, seasonal, sustainable food.By featuring new ingredients such as baby artichokes andcultivated wild mushrooms such as portabellos and shiitakeson cooking shows, in cookbooks, and in restaurants, chefs havebrought them to the attention of the public. When peopletaste them, they want to know how they can cook them andwhere they can find them. This newdemand helps to support more farms.Today, Ocean Mist and PhillipsMushrooms, tor example, cateringto customers' requests, have offeredthese products to the retail market.At the same time, local craftproduction began to flourish as artisansreturned to traditional methodsand consumers became increasinglyToday Americancheese is beingmade in boutiquecheese-makingplaces all overthe country—onthe farms whereanimals are milkedby hand—insmall batchesand by traditionalmethods..23.enamored of the tastes that result.In France you get French cheese. InEngland you get English cheese. InHolland you get Dutch cheese. TodayAmerican cheese is being made inboutique cheese-making places allover the country—on the farms whereanimals are milked by hand— in smallbatches and by traditional methods.Similarly, with boutique oliveoil makers sprouting up all overCalifornia, Americans no longer have to go to Italy for estatebottledextra-virgin olive oil. Although we have always hadSpanish olive oil, now we have American olive oilfrom Italianolives raised in California. Pomegranates, plump and red. andmangoes, in so many guises, once brought in from abroad forethnic populations, are now being grown in California andFlorida. And artisanal chocolate maker John Scharffenbergerisgiving European chocolates a run for their money.Andy and Mateo Kehler,cheese makers in Greensboro,Vermont, have approximately1 50 head of cattle from whichthey make their highly soughtaftercheeses. Mateo traveledthrough England, France,and Spain learning to makecheese from cheese masters.FOOD CULTURE USA
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AN OMANI FOLKTALEASYAH AL-BUALYOman
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y%aMUSIC AND DANCE INOMANOMAN CENTR
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In the southern Dhufar region, al-b
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ecosystems, identification of plant
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2:00IIIVorkshopFESTIVAL SCHEDULE (P
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Rhythm,Saturday, June 25 (Programs
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1:00IIlamFriday, July 1 (Programs a
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EVENING CONCERTSSounds of the Fores
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theRELATED EVENTS[96]Nuestra Músic
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IIDónalas Anderson,Washington, D.C
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'IEd LiíDmi, Studio City, Californ
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ISudhir Seth, Bethesda, MarylandA g
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1 if 1 DumberHoneyBeehive Beeproduc
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1"''NewI >onI Lui\IDon Bustos,Espa
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Ian Barlow, White Bird,Idaho; Woodl
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I 'istnet1Gordon Grant,Corvallis, O
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Kristen Marline, Flagstaff,Arizona;
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I1 ountries,IIHistorie Site, once t
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1IworksI1 11Istations are vital to
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1'IenIpanderetas;JCJ Band. Washingt
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Ralph Rinzlersongs are "made" (or c
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I >cmseI VhorahII MiI lameEne Nance
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|i 2forIIBartlevy1 )oerr;IIParadeSP
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II AerialIIII1Washington and Jeffer
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Stack, Bill Stafford, loni Stafford
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SMITHSONIAN FOLKLIFE FESTIVAL 20051
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SMITHSONIAN FOLKLIFE FESTIVAL 2005B
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Smithsonian Folklife FestivalSMITHS