"IThe numberof programsdesignedfor childrenhas swelledin the pastdecade alone.However, Americans are learning about food traditions in other ways.Founded in Italy in [986, Slow Food was organized in response to thesense that the industrial values of tasttood were overwhelming food traditionsaround the globe. As restaurants like McDonald's entered markets,they torced producers into their system of production and standards. Thisreduced biodiversity, promoted commodity agriculture, and underminedhospitality. Slow Food, in contrast, would document traditions and biodiversityand work toward protecting and supporting them. The InternationalSlow Food movement now has over 83,000 members organized intonational organizations and local "convivía" that celebrate the diversity andculture of their local foods. Slow Food USA has recently partnered with anumber ot other organizations—American Livestock Breeds Conservancy,Center tor Sustainable Environments at NorthernoArizona• University, Chefs Collaborative, Cultural Conservancy,INative Seeds/SEARCH, and Seed Savers Exchange— inaprogram called Renewing America's Food Traditionsew(RAFT). RAFT aims to document traditions, produce.and animal breeds, and then help their growers to developnew markets so that they become economically viable.Farmers markets and produce stands giveconsumers direct contact with tanners, allowing themto ask questions and learn about what is in season.Personal relationships help to create acommunitybond between growers and eatersThere are alsoopportunities tor people to become more directl)invoked 111the growing ot their tood. Local farmscalled CSAs (community supported agriculture)that are supported by subscribers who pay moneytor .1portion ot the farm's produce and who alsowork periodically planting, weeding, and harvestinghelp people learn about the source ot their tood.rhe number ot programs designed tor children hasswelled inthe past decade alone. Probably the bestknownprogram is Alice Waters's The Edible Schoolyard111 Berkeley, California. Begun 111 1994. the programisdesigned to bring the community and experientialethos of the locally grown-sustainable movementto middle school students. Seeing tood ascentral toStudents harvest kale atbuilding individual health, fulfilling socialrelationships, and communityThe Edible Schoolyard inBerkeley, California, and(opposite) the WashingtonYouth Garden at theU.S. National Arboretumin Washington, DC.lite, The Edible Schoolyard teaches children to plan a garden, preparesoil, plant, grow and harvest crops, cook, serve, and eat— in its phrasing,food "from seed to table.'' Students collaborate in decision-making on allaspects ot the garden. Working closely with the Center for Ecoliteracy,The Edible Schoolyard teachers have been on the forefront ot designinga curriculum that can place food at the center ot academic subjectssuch as math, reading, and history in order to "rethink school lunch."SMITHSONIAN FOLKLIFE FESTIVAL
a27Similarly, the Culinary Vegetable Institutein Huron, Ohio, has launched Veggie U toeducate food professionals and the generalpublic about vegetable growing and cooking.Recently, it has developed a curriculum forschools that will soon be m Texas systems.The Center for Ecoliteracy has developed adetailed "how-to" guide for school systemsto follow in creating their own programs.Spoons Across America, sponsored by theAmerican Institute of Food and Wine andthe |ames Beard Foundation, sponsors DaysofTaste in schools across the country. Localprograms also abound. In Washington, D.C.,Brainfood teaches children about life skillsthrough food activities after school and duringthe summer. The Washington Youth Gardengives children from the Washington, D.C.,public schools hands-on experience gardeningand then cooking their harvest. Programslike these are growing across the country.Then, of course, there is the timehonoredway of passing traditions on in familykitchens and on family farms. Hopefully, manyof these more formal programs remind cooksand growers to explore their own family traditionsand the foodways of those around them.This food revolution is about growing andcooking traditions and their adaptation to newcircumstances. It is about finding—amid a landscapedominated by pre-packaged goods—closer association with processes such as soilpreparation, harvesting, and cooking thatprevious generations took for granted. And itan awareness oí what a meal is, and how mealtimeis a time to slow down, to listen, and tosavor food. Perhaps most importantly, it is aboutsharing these things—or passing them on.This sharing and understanding taketime that today's busy schedules frequentlydon't allow. However, many are realizingthat the richness of shared experiencesinvolving food is too precious to give up.Thev think about the taste of afresh carrotpulled from a garden on a summer atternoonor a meal savored with family and friends.The food revolution that we celebratelooks both backward and forward: backwardto long-held community traditions ingrowing, marketing, cooking, and eating;forward to innovations for making thesetraditions sustainable and passing them on tofuture generations. It depends on nurturinga physical environment that supports diversity;sustaining the know ledge needed tocultivate that biodiversity; and passing ontraditions of preparing and eating. Together,these traditions are the foundation otmuch of our shared human experience.Everyone has to eat; why not cat together?isFOOD CULTURE USA
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Rhythm,Saturday, June 25 (Programs
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theRELATED EVENTS[96]Nuestra Músic
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IIDónalas Anderson,Washington, D.C
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'IEd LiíDmi, Studio City, Californ
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ISudhir Seth, Bethesda, MarylandA g
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1"''NewI >onI Lui\IDon Bustos,Espa
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Ian Barlow, White Bird,Idaho; Woodl
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Kristen Marline, Flagstaff,Arizona;
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Smithsonian Folklife FestivalSMITHS