Smithsonian - Perishable Pundit

—assigned aparticular dish—meat loaf, lamb chops, fish, roastchicken, spaghetti and meatballs, roast beef, and tuna casserole.Italian-American Jimmy Andruzzi, aNew York fireman whosurvived the World Trade Center tragedy, isthe one who cooksAmerica's foodhas becomeaconstantlychanging blendoí native andforeign ingredientsand techniquescoupledwith the mostamazing ingredientsoí allAmerican ingenuityand energy.all the meals in his firehouse at 13th Street and Fourth Avenue.Unlike his mother's totally Italian recipes, his are more Italian-American and just American. He cooks in between calls for firesand bakes his mother's meatballs rather than frying them. AnIndian woman married to a Korean man living in WashingtonHeights, New York, is a vegetarian. She makes a not-so-traditionalgrilled cheese sandwich with chickpeas, tomatoes, and theIndian spice combination, garam másala. Because there is notmuch cheese 111 India and that used is not so tasty, the "sandwich"as it existed in India contained no cheese. Since immigratingto America, she has added cheddar cheese to her recipe.These diverse traditions haw also changed the way Americanseat on the run. Quesadillas, dosas, and empanadas are eaten quicklyby busy people. With mass production, thev have become everydayfood m this country." These were foods that took time, individuallymade, and are ironically harder to prepare at home but easierin mass production," said Bob Rosenberg, a food consultant andformer CEO of Dunkin' Donuts. for example, California-bornGary MacGurn of the East Hampton Chutney Company spent 12years in .\n ashram in India before opening a small carryout in EastHampton, New York Gary's paper-thin white lentil and rice-baseddosas, which he loved while living 111 India, are tilled with such"cross-cultural- American" ingredientsasbarbecued chicken, arugula,roasted asparagus, ami teta cheeseAt the same time, traditions persist.Delicious authentic [amaican rumcakes, perfected bv awoman amiher daughter who have not changedthen[amaican blend tor Americantastes, have more "kick" than thosefrequently eaten inthis country.While many people bring traditionalrecipes out tor special occasions, thiswoman features her [amaican ruincake at her restaurant 111 Brooklyn.Sally Chow cooks asteak, string bean,and tofu stir-fry inMississippiSMITHSONIAN FOLKLIFE FESTIVAL