Cosmetic Surgery & Beauty Magazine #70

skin
Skilled professionals
Skin professionals are trained in educating clients on
managing skin concerns. Sales assistants in multibrand
mass-purchase department stores are not skilled
therapists. They often lack detailed knowledge of the skin
and are unable to address individual skin concerns.
Clinical-grade skincare companies will pride themselves
on supporting their clinics, and therapists will have a high
level of training regarding key ingredients and benefi ts
of cosmeceuticals.
Dosage of active ingredients
As a formulator, I have suppliers present ingredients to
me on a regular basis. Many of these raw ingredients are
novel and new. However, formulators supplying clinics must
evaluate the ingredient in terms of its effi cacy and safety
profi le. This involves a thorough analysis of both in vivo and
in vitro clinical data.
Furthermore, the formulating chemist must use the
optimal dosage of active ingredients to ensure effi cacy.
Many over-the-counter brands add just a whiff of active
ingredients simply to make marketing claims.
Synergy and stability
of combined ingredients
Cosmetic scientists must also understand the interactions
of ingredients within the fi nal formula. Formulating is not
simply a matter of adding a number of ingredients together
and mixing them up.
Ingredients must be compatible and must also work
together in synergy. For example, retinol and niacinamide
should not be formulated in an acidic environment.
Additionally, adding acids such as AHAs, BHAs or
L-ascorbic acid to formulas with these cosmeceuticals
results in retinol being rendered ineff ective and niacinamide
being hydrolysed.
Ability to adapt
Many non-clinical brands are unable to react to market
needs rapidly. The large corporates must create marketing
campaigns well in advance and a need to adapt to new
technology may take years. Smaller specialist companies
can more readily react to dynamic changes in the
appearance medicine industry. csbm
WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN SKINCARE
• Does the range cater to most skin concerns: ageing,
blemishes, uneven skin tone, sensitivity?
• Does the range offer key actives such as stableactive
forms of Vitamin A, Vitamin B3 and Vitamin
C, along with broad spectrum UV protection?
• Does the manufacturer have a core brand
philosophy that resonates with you?
• Does the range offer optimal levels of
cosmeceuticals supported by readily available
clinical data?
• Are you offered guidance and information on the
products by qualified skin professionals or medical
staff when making your choice?
• Is the manufacturer of the range able to readily
adapt formulations to this dynamic industry?
• Is the manufacturer readily available for interaction
with the consumer via email, social media or
telephone should you have any queries?
• There is one final and fundamental factor in selecting
good skin care: TRUST. If the customer trusts the
advice of their skin therapist and the ethos and
quality of the brand they have chosen, they will feel
their decision is valid and positively embrace their
new skin routine.
A trained therapist will advise clients not only of the
ideal products but also advice on lifestyle, nutrition and
treatments to address their skin concerns. When a
cosmeceutical home routine is adopted in a positive way,
the best results can be achieved.
In my opinion, clinical-grade skincare really does
stand apart from the white noise of department store
brands. If the customer is prepared to take the time to
research the best cosmeceutical brands and the right
skin therapist, great results – not seven-day miracles –
are possible.
www.cosbeauty.com.au 105