EP Business in Hospitality Issue 48 - January 2014

If the never-ending march of
coffee shop chains across our
nation’s high streets has not
escaped your notice, you could
well be forgiven for thinking that
our rich tea heritage is on the wane. Yet
despite our love of a latte, it would
appear that we are loyally committed
to a cuppa, with evidence of a tea revival
brewing across the land. Because, of
course, tea is not just a drink. It’s a
wonderful, magical mystery to any
visitors who arrive on our shores.
Personally, whenever we have
foreign friends staying, an outing for a
traditional afternoon tea is always high
on the itinerary. I love the confusion that
inevitably ensues, with mistaken beliefs
that a ‘cream tea’ is a cup of tea into
which cream is poured and the need to
explain the subtle differences between
‘high tea’ and a classic ‘afternoon tea’.
The frowns soon give way to smiles,
however, when the experience begins.
Because afternoon tea most definitely is
an experience, in whatever form it takes.
Widely credited as the brainchild of
Anna, the seventh Duchess of Bedford,
this tradition first appeared in the 1830s
to ease the hunger pangs that afflicted
the bellies of the upper classes between
lunch and dinner.
Now, it is more an excuse to enjoy a
refreshing brew and some yummy treats,
and plays a significant contributing factor
in making the UK the largest consumer of
tea – at nearly two-and-a-half kilos per
person, per year – in the world.
It is curious, however, that a drink
invented more than 5,000 years ago that
became a mid-afternoon snack in the
1800s should still be so popular today,
and indeed is becoming an increasingly
fashionable trend.
Whether it’s a desire to take time out
from the hustle and bustle of modern
day living or whether this resurgence
is a nod towards the recent spate of
thoroughly British, iconic celebrations
from the Diamond Jubilee to the Royal
Wedding and recent christening,
everyone seems to want a little slice
of this particular pie. Or, more fittingly,
this cake – particularly if it’s a Victoria
sandwich laden with cream and
fresh raspberries.
At a recent discussion forum with Ewan
Venters, CEO of Fortnum & Mason, he
spoke about the principle of relevance,
ensuring that, as a brand, they are
providing products and experiences that
remain relevant to their customer base.
Fortnum and Mason are one of the many
establishments riding the afternoon tea
wave. Last summer’s hit offering the
‘Hamperling’ – which took the afternoon
tea experience from their Piccadilly base
and made tea for two available via the
Serpentine Pavilion – provided an alfresco
alternative for those wanting to gulp some
fresh air down with their tea.
The new Fortnum and Mason store
opening in November at St Pancras
would not be complete without its allimportant
tea salon. Sticking closely to
old-style convention, the relevance they
seek here – like The Ritz, Dorchester,
Claridges and other achingly British
venues – is one of timeless tradition.
A taste of the glory days, classically
embodied by a crustless cucumber
sandwich and the safety and security
of a warm scone, smeared with jam
and clotted cream.
Brown’s Tea-Tox
Anyone
for tea?
MIRIAM STALEY
explores the resurgence
of a quintessentially British
tradition: the afternoon tea
Traditional afternoon
tea at The Dorchester
26 | January 14 | EP