EP Business in Hospitality Issue 48 - January 2014

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If the never-ending march of coffee shop chains across our nation’s high streets has not escaped your notice, you could well be forgiven for thinking that our rich tea heritage is on the wane. Yet despite our love of a latte, it would appear that we are loyally committed to a cuppa, with evidence of a tea revival brewing across the land. Because, of course, tea is not just a drink. It’s a wonderful, magical mystery to any visitors who arrive on our shores. Personally, whenever we have foreign friends staying, an outing for a traditional afternoon tea is always high on the itinerary. I love the confusion that inevitably ensues, with mistaken beliefs that a ‘cream tea’ is a cup of tea into which cream is poured and the need to explain the subtle differences between ‘high tea’ and a classic ‘afternoon tea’. The frowns soon give way to smiles, however, when the experience begins. Because afternoon tea most definitely is an experience, in whatever form it takes. Widely credited as the brainchild of Anna, the seventh Duchess of Bedford, this tradition first appeared in the 1830s to ease the hunger pangs that afflicted the bellies of the upper classes between lunch and dinner. Now, it is more an excuse to enjoy a refreshing brew and some yummy treats, and plays a significant contributing factor in making the UK the largest consumer of tea – at nearly two-and-a-half kilos per person, per year – in the world. It is curious, however, that a drink invented more than 5,000 years ago that became a mid-afternoon snack in the 1800s should still be so popular today, and indeed is becoming an increasingly fashionable trend. Whether it’s a desire to take time out from the hustle and bustle of modern day living or whether this resurgence is a nod towards the recent spate of thoroughly British, iconic celebrations from the Diamond Jubilee to the Royal Wedding and recent christening, everyone seems to want a little slice of this particular pie. Or, more fittingly, this cake – particularly if it’s a Victoria sandwich laden with cream and fresh raspberries. At a recent discussion forum with Ewan Venters, CEO of Fortnum & Mason, he spoke about the principle of relevance, ensuring that, as a brand, they are providing products and experiences that remain relevant to their customer base. Fortnum and Mason are one of the many establishments riding the afternoon tea wave. Last summer’s hit offering the ‘Hamperling’ – which took the afternoon tea experience from their Piccadilly base and made tea for two available via the Serpentine Pavilion – provided an alfresco alternative for those wanting to gulp some fresh air down with their tea. The new Fortnum and Mason store opening in November at St Pancras would not be complete without its allimportant tea salon. Sticking closely to old-style convention, the relevance they seek here – like The Ritz, Dorchester, Claridges and other achingly British venues – is one of timeless tradition. A taste of the glory days, classically embodied by a crustless cucumber sandwich and the safety and security of a warm scone, smeared with jam and clotted cream. Brown’s Tea-Tox Anyone for tea? MIRIAM STALEY explores the resurgence of a quintessentially British tradition: the afternoon tea Traditional afternoon tea at The Dorchester 26 | January 14 | EP
SPECIAL FEATURE Yet afternoon tea is appealing to a wider audience than those seeking the quaint charm of a stereotypically British experience. Themed afternoon teas are finding appeal to a discerning audience, who are looking for something surreal with their sandwiches and who are more interested in quirky than quaint. “Afternoon tea for most is synonymous with decadence and a decent portion of indulgence” The Sanderson Hotel’s ‘Mad Hatter’s Afternoon Tea’ is unapologetically eccentric and you certainly won’t find an egg and cress sarnie here. This is an immersive experience fusing one of our most successful literary works, Lewis Carroll’s Alice in Wonderland, with a real-life expression of the tradition it immortalised. An unashamedly British affair for a modern guest. The world of adult entertainment has also got in on the act, creating something relevant for their particular audience. Held on the first Saturday of the month at The Paradise in Kensal Green, this is cabaret with a cuppa. Burlesque over a brew. Like an effortless dance duo, ‘Afternoon Tease’ partners the refined sophistication of our favourite afternoon activity with something a little saucier to create the ultimate afternoon revue. I can’t imagine what the seventh Duchess of Bedford would make of this particular twist … While afternoon tea for most is synonymous with decadence and a decent portion of indulgence on the side, maintaining relevance in a society where food fads and fashions rise and fall faster than a cheese soufflé has also created an interesting niche. The Met Bar at the Metropolitan Hotel jumped on this trend with their ‘Afternoon De-Light’ tea (now ‘Brit Rocks and Tea Pots’), which featured a healthy dose of … healthy. No-bread sandwiches, low-fat crème fraîche, flour substitutes, olive oil and fruit purées replaced the normal calorie-rich and cholesterolladen fare. The ‘Tea-Tox’ offering at Brown’s Hotel takes the health properties of tea to a new level, with a menu that lists spelt, xylitol, rye, yoghurt and fruit among its principal ingredients. And no cream. Definitely no cream. This is nice without the naughty and the ‘bespoke jogging tour’ option is the sugar-free icing on the gluten-free cake. In addition, thanks to the Oxo Tower, it is now possible to indulge in the ultimate oxymoron – an afternoon tea without tea. Their ‘Not Afternoon Tea’, with nary a teapot in sight, takes the concept of our 3pm treat and instead pairs cocktails with a tasting plate of decadent desserts. Although, as this isn’t a total antithesis to the original, maybe they should have just called it ‘Afternoon’. So, in whatever way you choose to enjoy it, and however it is most relevant for you, I believe that the words of Ray Davies’ song will be ringing true for many years to come. • Sanderson’s Mad Hatter inspired afternoon tea Have a cuppa tea Ray Davies “Whatever the situation, whatever the race or creed Tea knows no segregation, no class nor pedigree It knows no motivations, no sector organisation It knows no one religion nor political belief Have a cuppa tea, have a cuppa tea Hallelujah, hallelujah, hallelujah, Rosie Lee.” EP | January 14 | 27
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Page 4 and 5: “Afternoon tea for most is synony
Page 6 and 7: Metro Bank sees itself as different
Page 8 and 9: UK Hospitality Confidence The UK Ho
Page 10 and 11: MANAGEMENT In 1997, the Worshipful
Page 12 and 13: inside luxury LIFESTYLE unplugged i
Page 14 and 15: Fast forward six years and Creative
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Page 35 and 36: BUSINESS Opened in 1854 and origina
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Page 43 and 44: MIKE DAY OPINION Technical Determin
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Page 47 and 48: MANAGEMENT Miriam Staley, encourage
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EP Business in Hospitality Issue 48 - January 2014

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