Wealden Times | WT171 | May 2016 | Restoration & New Build supplement inside

Introducing...
tatty tess
Tessa Teichman-Derville tells us how her love for sewing
started as creative therapy and turned into ‘tatty tess’
What inspired you to start your business?
A combination of ‘empty nest’ syndrome after my daughter started
school and the need to fulfil a creative urge led to the birth of ‘tatty
tess’. After the death of my father and a bout of post-natal depression,
I was advised by a counsellor to focus on my sewing as a way to
combat the feelings of loss. It worked for me. Sewing started as
creative therapy and turned into ‘tatty tess’; a busy cottage industry
that is my obsession.
Have you always been a creative person?
Yes. One of my earliest memories is being dubbed ‘The Sellotape
Queen’ by my family - always making cardboard boxes into
something prettier and less useful! My grandfather was an artist
and I forged a bond with him as he showed me how to paint with
oils and palette knives. In my teenage years, the old Singer made its
first appearance in my life and my wardrobe overflowed. Even my
‘proper’ pre-marriage career had a strong element of design - creating
innovative fundraising events in London.
Did you have training?
No, never any formal training. My mother taught me to thread a
sewing machine and 30 or so years later I could still do it, almost
without looking. When I decided to sell my pieces, I turned to the
founder of The Bake and Crafthouse in Cranbrook to help me hone
my basic skills – French seams, zip insertion, buttonholes; all the
details that make a garment look finished and made with love. As for
designing, I just started sketching clothes I’d like for my daughter, and
read fashion design books and pattern cutting articles. I’m learning all
the time. I’ve found that my homespun style of design appeals to my
customers as it adds to the personality of tatty tess pieces.
What influences your product aesthetic?
I’m seduced by nostalgia and illustrations of rosy cheeked children
from the 40s and 50s. So my pieces definitely have that old timer kind
of vibe. The clothes are designed for comfort and playing, and to be
worn well, so are not fussy. I love the simple lines of a smock and its
association with fishermen, artists, farmers. The smock top and dress
are staples of every collection.
What is the essence of your business?
To provide my customers with an alternative to cheap, mass produced
children’s clothes and to offer a
middle way between that, and
hugely expensive designerwear.
Sometimes a super market t-shirt
and leggings suit the occasion, other
times you want your little person to
wear something different, made just
for them.
Tell us about the making
process?
It’s very ad hoc and higgledypiggledy.
I’m now a lot more
organised than when I first started
out. I still find it hard to stick to a
plan when I’m constantly dreaming
up new designs or spotting vintage
fabric at a market. To a certain
extent I still go with the flow. I
produce about 10 basic silhouettes for each collection, winter and
summer. I use my stock of vintage and new fabrics to come up with
a theme and then scout out other fabrics and trims to complete
the collection. Once I’m happy with each silhouette I chat to my
customers online, do a photo shoot and start selling. I often get nearly
overrun with orders, but seem to sew better under pressure or in the
middle of the night!
What’s your favourite product from your collection?
Every new piece I make is my favourite for that moment in time. I
love working with new fabrics; that’s one of the reasons I don’t make
exactly the same garment twice. A favourite from this season would be
the Garden Party Dress – my beloved smock shape but gussied up for
a party!
Do you enjoy working for yourself?
Setting up as a sole trader was scary to start with, but the bit I really
love is retreating into my tiny sewing grotto and losing myself in
fabric and ideas. I can whirr away whilst knowing that I’m still able to
go and pick up my daughter, or nip out for a coffee and pep talk with
an amazingly supportive friend.
What makes all the hard work worth it?
When I see a little lady toddling about in a tatty tess, or when a
customer sends me a photo of their child wearing something I made.
Can’t deny it’s lovely to be making my own money again too! It’s a
precious thing to be able to love your day job.
Clockwise above, Lounge Pants in Queue For The
Zoo Print, £32; Garden Party Dress in Vintage Liberty
Print, from £48; Flutter Sleeve Top in Goose Print,
£38; Playsuit in Liberty Crousel Print, from £48
www.wealdenfairs.com/tattytess