Times of the Islands Summer 2016

INNOVATION | CONSERVATION | ADVENTURE
Cockburn Harbour sits a stone’s throw from the
resort and the bike ride is easy. Our first stop is the 18th
century District Commissioner’s Residence that sits atop
a hill and has commanding views over the water to Dove
Cay. Once a bed and breakfast, the still grand-looking
house now lies derelict and abandoned, although its separate,
Bermuda-style kitchen is intact. In one of its rooms,
the Queen of England once rested and changed clothes
during her visit in 1966. We make our way to the rear balcony
and gaze past the old white stone lighthouse across
the channel to Dove and Long Cays. What a great South
Caicos museum this building would make!
We cycle along deserted streets, passing churches
and ancient buildings, and head down to the marina.
Here fishermen sell conch, lobster, and scalefish to the
processing plant, where it makes its way not only to the
finest restaurants in the TCI, but also the world.
East Bay Resort caters for every level of activity. A cool
drink at the swim-up pool bar? No problem! A leisurely
walk along a mile of golden sand? Check! We decide to
be more energetic and take our pick of stand-up paddleboards
and ocean kayaks and are soon paddling our way
across the sheltered cove. We spot rays in the water and
swim in the shallows before heading back.
This evening we decide to have sunset drinks on our
balcony and enjoy the ever-changing colors of the water
and sky. Soon we are seeing the occasional shooting star
and realize it’s too late for dinner. No problem, as the
front desk arranges a pizza delivery from the bar in town.
The next morning starts with the now familiar struggle
to leave the comfortable bed. We keep breakfast light
as we are booked on a snorkel trip on the hotel boat.
South Caicos Islander Captain Marvin greets us with a
huge smile and chats about fishing as we make the short
boat ride around the headland and tie up to a mooring
just off Long Cay. With mask and flippers on, we enter
the crystal clear water for some of the best snorkeling in
the TCI. The lack of human intervention here means the
marine environment is pristine. There can be few places
left on Earth that have escaped the impact of tourism.
STAND UP PADDLEBOARDING | KAYAKING | KITEBOARDING
SNORKELING | SCUBA DIVING | PRIVATE CHARTERS | BIKING
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PRESENTS
FEATURING
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18
YEARS
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This is one, and we gaze in wonder at the health of the
coral and the abundance of sea life.
Back on board, we head over to a shallow cove on
Long Cay and wade ashore. Long Cay is some three miles
long and although Marvin tells us it’s home to large rock
iguanas, we see only the nests of these elusive creatures.
We walk up to the ridge and stare across rugged cliffs
onto the ocean some 6,000 feet deep. The contrast with
the shallow water of the turquoise cove is staggering.
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