Times of the Islands Summer 2016

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INNOVATION | CONSERVATION | ADVENTURE Cockburn Harbour sits a stone’s throw from the resort and the bike ride is easy. Our first stop is the 18th century District Commissioner’s Residence that sits atop a hill and has commanding views over the water to Dove Cay. Once a bed and breakfast, the still grand-looking house now lies derelict and abandoned, although its separate, Bermuda-style kitchen is intact. In one of its rooms, the Queen of England once rested and changed clothes during her visit in 1966. We make our way to the rear balcony and gaze past the old white stone lighthouse across the channel to Dove and Long Cays. What a great South Caicos museum this building would make! We cycle along deserted streets, passing churches and ancient buildings, and head down to the marina. Here fishermen sell conch, lobster, and scalefish to the processing plant, where it makes its way not only to the finest restaurants in the TCI, but also the world. East Bay Resort caters for every level of activity. A cool drink at the swim-up pool bar? No problem! A leisurely walk along a mile of golden sand? Check! We decide to be more energetic and take our pick of stand-up paddleboards and ocean kayaks and are soon paddling our way across the sheltered cove. We spot rays in the water and swim in the shallows before heading back. This evening we decide to have sunset drinks on our balcony and enjoy the ever-changing colors of the water and sky. Soon we are seeing the occasional shooting star and realize it’s too late for dinner. No problem, as the front desk arranges a pizza delivery from the bar in town. The next morning starts with the now familiar struggle to leave the comfortable bed. We keep breakfast light as we are booked on a snorkel trip on the hotel boat. South Caicos Islander Captain Marvin greets us with a huge smile and chats about fishing as we make the short boat ride around the headland and tie up to a mooring just off Long Cay. With mask and flippers on, we enter the crystal clear water for some of the best snorkeling in the TCI. The lack of human intervention here means the marine environment is pristine. There can be few places left on Earth that have escaped the impact of tourism. STAND UP PADDLEBOARDING | KAYAKING | KITEBOARDING SNORKELING | SCUBA DIVING | PRIVATE CHARTERS | BIKING 649 | 946 | 5034 PRESENTS FEATURING 649 | 231 | 6455 18 YEARS ©BLUELINES/p.shearer ALL RIGHTS RESERVED This is one, and we gaze in wonder at the health of the coral and the abundance of sea life. Back on board, we head over to a shallow cove on Long Cay and wade ashore. Long Cay is some three miles long and although Marvin tells us it’s home to large rock iguanas, we see only the nests of these elusive creatures. We walk up to the ridge and stare across rugged cliffs onto the ocean some 6,000 feet deep. The contrast with the shallow water of the turquoise cove is staggering. 78 www.timespub.tc
On the way back, Marvin asks if we have ever seen huge orange starfish. As I answer that occasionally we spot them, I look down and realize we are floating above hundreds—a field of starfish. Nature at its best, indeed. Back at the resort, I meet up with General Manager Darik Riggs and Divemaster Ralf Klug and we head over to what will soon be the on-site dive shop. It has just been built and is awaiting a few final touches before opening. Offering brand-new Scuba Pro equipment, this will be a fine dive operation. Ralf has identified a number of dive sites that will suit all levels of experience. The diving promises to be sublime—the last undiscovered diving gem in the TCI. Ralf explains that East Bay Resort will offer all-inclusive room and dive packages, with concessions for residents. A special deal with Caicos Ferry will even allow guests to dive on their last day without the worry of flying. Ralf explains that, as in Grand Turk and Salt Cay, dive sites are only a few minutes offshore, allowing for an easy boat ride and surface time on land. I envision future dives on never-dived-before sites and surface time in a luxury resort for lunch—plans to return before we’ve even left! Speaking of leaving, it’s time to pack and take one more look around our lovely room. Stephanie, Audra, and Darik bid us farewell and Jeremiah is waiting by the SUV to whisk us back the airport. Duties on Provo beckon, but it’s South Caicos that’s now well and truly lodged in our hearts. So, although East Bay Resort is a secret, it’s a secret worth sharing! a South Caicos versus Grace Bay Before my trip to South Caicos, I asked both expatriate friends and visitors to tell me their favorite things about each island. Here’s what they said: PROVIDENCIALES — Upscale luxury hotels. Eco-tours, snorkeling. Great beach. Explore uninhabited cays. NORTH CAICOS — Remoteness. Friendly people. Quiet. Hiking. MIDDLE CAICOS — Rugged dramatic coastlines. Tranquility. Deserted beaches. SALT CAY — History. Wall diving close to shore. Unspoilt. Donkeys. Walking. GRAND TURK — Historic town. Wall diving close to shore. Biking. Obviously, many islands have many great features but South Caicos and East Bay Resort really do have all the best features from all the islands in one place! John Galleymore East Bay Resort includes 86 suites, all with ocean views. For more information visit eastbayresort.com. East Bay Resort’s gracious staff includes (from left): Audra Simmons, Darik Riggs, and Stephanie Ulfer. Times of the Islands Summer 2016 79
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Times of the Islands Summer 2016

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