Eatdrink #39 January/February 2013

№ 39 | January/February 2013 www.eatdrink.ca 31
toured extensively and
successfully worldwide,
and as a result of that
he experienced many
food influences that he
determined to put his own
spin on one day.
“It’s true that you really
appreciate a good breakfast
when you’re on the road
away from home,” Justin
laughs. “I wanted to
recreate that comfort-food
feel with a kind of big-city,
speak-easy feeling. I knew a
diner could work well with
the bar angle, too.”
This has proved to be an
understatement. Although
Justin and Gregg launched
The Nite Owl just under
three years ago, they only
opened the adjoining Early
Bird ten months ago, when
the space presented itself.
Already there is a renovation in progress,
which will open up more of the diner into
the front of the bar. (A trial patio seating
in the summer essentially doubled their
capacity). In the meantime, food stats are
impressive: 1,000 perogies every week,
500 bacon-wrapped dill pickles, a myriad
of meats prepped including brisket, pork
shoulder and duck, many of which will
be treated to a high-maintenance combo
of curing, brining, smoking, grinding, or
being made into sausage
— all in-house. The Early
Bird’s own smoked meat
takes days to prepare
from start to finish, but
is extremely popular and
every bit as succulent as
its Montreal counterparts.
Dips — including the
BBQ sauce — are also
homemade.
Popular dishes include
the awe-inspiringly huge
TurduckKen sandwich,
Poutine Perogies nestled
in swooningly dark gravy,
and an architectural feat
called the Pancake Stacker,
which alternates strata of
bacon and potato hash and
The Early Bird recently welcomed the Food Network
crew from “You Gotta Eat Here” to their diner. Above,
Early Bird co-owner Justin Wolfe shares a laugh in the
kitchen with the TV show’s host John Catucci. Below, the
entire crew raises a glass in appreciation for their visit.
An air date is not scheduled yet as we go to press, but
look for the episode in a few months’ time.
wears a crown of fried egg. Tender braised
pieces of duck are served as sliders, and a
variety of homemade soups are available to
add heft. No wonder there are often lineups
outside the door, and interestingly, Justin