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CRAFT BREWERIES | ELECTRIFYING EVENTS | NIGHTLIFE
ADVENTURES BY LAND AND SEA | HOTEL PACKAGES
POW!
SHAZZAM!

Features
Jim Henkins
50
The Puget Sound Food
Hub connects farmers with
restaurateurs throughout
the region, making fresh,
delicious meals that
much easier.
46
Writer and photographer Tere
Belcher takes a closer look at the
Carnegie libraries of Oregon.
40
In 1942, Minoru Yasui defied
discriminatory wartime laws and
sparked a lifetime of activism.
Rob Kerr

FALL 2017
Departments
INTRO
4 Letter
Notes from the Adventure
pg. 30
6 Contributors
8 Digital
Go inside Eighth Generation’s
Pike Place Market store online.
BUSINESS
10 Green Biz
Fairsing Vineyards plants
more trees than wine grapes
in an effort to create a
better ecosystem.
12
Q&A
A young bronze sculptor
corners the market on college
mascot sculptures.
CULTURE
14 Art
Louie Gong started Eighth
Generation to provide more
outlets for native artists—
without cultural appropriation.
18 Music
This Patch of Sky gives you all
the feels—no lyrics necessary.
20 Chef Spotlight
Troy MacLarty brings India
to Portland with kati rolls,
ghee and masalas at
Bollywood Theater.
22 Event Calendar
Plan your travel around our calendar
of music, art, theater, film,
sports and festivals.
Renee Patrick
OUTDOORS
26 Athlete
University of Washington senior Kimberly
Keever is ready to take the Huskies women’s
soccer team from worst to first.
30 Notes from the Adventure
The Oregon Desert Trail is a challenging
trek through some of the state’s most
desolate landscape.
34
38
66
Dumpling Trail
A three-block stretch near the Vancouver
International Airport offers more than 200
restaurants offering up Asian delicacies.
Olympia
Washington’s capital will surprise you with its
culture, beauty and culinary delights.
Exposure
Submit a photo for a chance to win
the photo contest.
EXPLORE GUIDE
Where to eat, drink, stay, play and shop
57
Oregon
60 Washington
63 Vancouver
68 Route Maps
71 Special Deals on
Amtrak Cascades
72 Parting Shot
Hiking the Oregon Desert Trail.
ON THE COVER: Fresh Coho Salmon from Lummi Island Wild Co-op (see pg. 50). PHOTO BY JIM HENKINS
ontrakmag.com FALL 2017 | 3

A Note from Us
Hal Gard
Rail and Public Transit Administrator
ODOT

AFRICAN
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503-305-7288

Contributors
FALL 2017
Chad Walsh
Writer—A Legacy of Persistence
(p. 40)
Adam Sawyer
Writer—Weekender: Olympia, WA
(p. 38)
Anthony Castro
Photographer—Q&A
(p. 12)
David Reamer
Photographer—Chef Spotlight
(p. 20)
It was a privilege for me to
talk Holly Yasui about her
father, Minoru, about his life
and legacy—fighting laws he
believed were discriminatory
and unconstitutional—and
about where this country’s
been and where it’s headed.
Occasionally I get asked, “If
you write primarily about
the Northwest, won’t you
run out of stories soon?”
Well, no. I could spend
a handful of lifetimes
wandering around the
confines of the Northwest
finding new stories. Olympia
is a perfect example. It
was never on my radar as
a destination until I went.
Now I can’t wait to get
back—and I can’t wait to see
what else is out there!
I was very excited to take on
this particular project and
have the opportunity to learn
about the process of lost wax
casting. It was a pleasure
getting to know Alison Brown
and hearing her inspirational
story about Campus
Sculptures. I really tried
to focus on the intricacies
of her art and talent. I was
excited to shoot raw images
of casting the molten bronze
and witness the final process.
After what I’ve learned about
bronze sculpting, I have a
newfound appreciation for
this art form.
I have been documenting
the food and bar culture
in Portland for more than
eight years. In this month’s
issue, I teamed up with Troy
MacLarty, chef and owner
of Bollywood Theater. It was
a bit of a reunion and great
to reconnect, since I used
to run in the same circles
as Troy back when he was
cooking family suppers
above Gotham Tavern
almost ten years ago.
6 | FALL 2017
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adventure + lifestyle along the Amtrak Cascades ® route
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Digital Experience
FALL 2017
VIDEO
Eighth Generation Aims to Inspire
MOBILE
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Anthony Castro Bradley Lanphear
Louie Gong is on a mission: to change the way people think about Native American art and
artists. Learn more about Gong and his company, Eighth Generation, and go inside its Pike
Place Market store in our exclusive online video.
ontrakmag.com/eighthgeneration
EXTENDED GALLERY
Making Mascots
with Alison Brown
Get an inside look at
Alison Brown’s mascotsculpting
process with
our extended online
photo gallery.
ontrakmag.com/sculptor
EXPOSURE PHOTO CONTEST
What Does Your
PNW Look Like?
Photo by Alvaro Pardo
Send us a photo that represents
your experience of the Pacific
Northwest. You’ll have a chance to
be published on the Exposure page
of this magazine.
Submit your photo to:
ontrakmag.com/exposure

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Business
10. Green Biz | 12. Q&A
Planting for the Future
One vineyard vies to maintain biodiversity
Jon Jensen
Fairsing Vineyards has planted a forest around its vines to maintain a healthy ecosystem.
WIND YOUR WAY up the drive past acres of pinot noir
vines, before reaching the Fairsing Vineyards tasting room
and Big Doug, the 250-year-old Douglas fir tree landmark
perched at the summit. With a magnificent 360-degree view,
it feels like you’re on top of the world. What you may not realize
as you pass rows and rows of wine grapes is that nearly
twice the amount of land planted to vinifera is actually dedicated
to forest.
Owners Mike and Mary Ann McNally find themselves going
against the grain of conventional wisdom by choosing to
plant a forest to achieve a balanced and healthy ecosystem,
both for their grapes and the community at large. McNally
bases his business model on his experience growing up in
Iowa, where he witnessed small towns shutting down as large
industrial farms put small family farms out of business. This
led to his present-day desire to maintain the sustainability of
rural communities, which includes looking for ways to responsibly
guide development of farmland.
McNally and Fairsing’s wine club manager (and chief storyteller)
Zach Wentzel speak passionately about Deep Ecology,
an environmental movement and philosophy that regards human
life as just one of many equal components of a global ecosystem.
They explain the importance of learning to value the
land in different ways; how it’s not just about timber, grapes,
or tax incentives—there are psychological and physical healing
benefits of seeing green, being in nature, and being connected
to the earth.
“The soil under the vines is the first place we should be
practicing this,” McNally said. He encourages treating the
ecosystem as a self-sustaining system. A healthy microbiome
has microorganisms that assist the plant in taking up essential
nutrients—resulting in healthy soil with nitrogen, potassium,
phosphate and micro-nutrients that facilitate plant health. But
it doesn’t end with the soil and the plants. The vineyard system
is layered sustainable development, all the way down to the
workers in the field.
McNally envisions his estate as a vineyard nestled in a forest.
Aside from the aesthetic and financial benefits, he knows the
26,320 shrubs, 18,000 conifers (primarily Douglas fir), 3,000
deciduous trees (oaks and maples), and 100 redwoods (of
which only a handful have taken root) he’s planted prevent the
soil from eroding, provide habitat for insects and animals and
keep the entire system in check.
Strategically planted with deciduous trees and shrubs at the
top and conifers lower down, there’s never too much shade directly
on the vineyard. But Wentzel tastes the benefits of that
shade on the wines. “The forest imprints its own character on
the grapes—making its stamp,” he said. “The shadow results in
higher acidity in those grapes, ultimately adding to the complexity
of the vintage.”
Fairsing, which means “bountiful or abundant” in Gaelic,
has come to have even greater significance for the McNallys.
Their commitment to not only growing quality grapes but
responsibly managing the land is a testament to their longterm
vision—they see the forest through the trees. When
McNally speaks about why he planted the forest, he refers
to that magnificent landmark Douglas fir tree on his estate.
“It’s a beacon of a tree, the heritage of the Northwest,” he said.
“We planted the forest here so we could replace it with the
children of Big Doug.”

Alison Brown
Sculpting Her Future
UO grad Alison Brown has quickly become a successful bronze sculptor.
AS A COLLEGE STUDENT at the University
of Oregon, Alison Brown searched for a career
that would be fulfilling. She knew she loved
art, but didn’t think she could make a living
sculpting. Then she discovered her calling
was all over campus—in the form of Puddles
the Duck, the university’s mascot. Today, the
28-year-old Troutdale resident has a successful
business sculpting mascots and other figures,
and is in the process of opening a foundry in
Troutdale. Her company, Campus Sculptures,
offers sculptures of the mascots of UO, Oregon
State University, Boise State University and
the University of Southern California. In 2016,
she unveiled a 7-foot bronze sculpture of the
Oregon Duck in front of Matthew Knight Arena
on the UO campus.
How did you come to sculpting?
I just assumed nobody was making a real living as an artist. As
a kid I was probably too practical and I thought about what
I could actually do to make a living. Even though I knew art
was what I loved, I thought, ‘I have to find something I love
as much as this that will pay the bills.’ But I never really did.
When I met my husband, Rip Caswell, who has a gallery, I
was really inspired not only by his work but because of his
business sense. The lightbulb went on—there are people out
in the world who are creating artwork for a living. I really
wanted to be a part of that. I was pretty terrified at first and
had to basically jump into it with my eyes closed. I started
learning how to create artwork and cast in bronze and learn
the business side of it, too. I just went full-fledged into it, from
a Spanish degree.
How did the mascot niche come along?
I was just finishing up that degree when I decided to

Alison Brown’s sculpture
of Puddles the Duck, the
University of Oregon
mascot, sits outside
Matthew Knight Arena
on campus.
start sculpting and casting in bronze. And I thought to
myself, there are so many things out there artists are
already doing—I realized how good all these artists were
and I’d never even created anything before. How could
I compete with people out there? So I thought, ‘I may
as well just start where I am,’ and that was at the U of O.
I didn’t know how to gather references. I knew people
at the Duck Store, so I was able to get to the mascot up
close. I really started working with that figure and that
character, and then with the help of U of O licensing
I was able to start selling. It just happened naturally,
and the more I got into it I started meeting marketing
people, and before I knew it I was networking with top
donors to U of O.
For an art novice, what is the process of making a
large-scale bronze sculpture?
Bronzes are made through a centuries-old process
called lost-wax casting. Artists have been creating this
way for generations—you start with a clay sculpture
and then you take a mold of the clay. Today we have
rubber, which they didn’t have years ago, so we’re able
to create multiples using the original mold. That stays
the same wherever you go, from a small sculpture
to a monumental sculpture. Obviously it’s a huge
undertaking, physically, to create something large
scale, and really there’s a lot of energy that goes into
a monument. It really brings people together
in the process as a standalone art piece, as
an installation. It can anchor a setting or a
building, and that’s really what large-scale
work does as opposed to smaller stuff. Bronzes
are really special.
You started with Oregon. When did you
spread to other universities, and is there any
rivalry too big?
With the Beavers, it’s a friendly rivalry, and they like the
crossover. I didn’t know this, but so many people actually
donate anonymously to both universities. That’s what
I like about the institutions in Oregon—there’s really
enthusiasm for everyone. I mean, not during football
season, but…
What’s next?
I’m starting to get more commissions for figurative
work. In May I did a statue of Bill Walton and that was
really fun. It’s down in San Diego and it’s of Bill with
his bike and his signature—hands up in the air. I’m also
working quite a bit in partnership with my husband,
Rip Caswell, so it’s a natural evolution of both of our
businesses coming together. I expect I’ll be working with
the Ducks forever. You’ve got to just kind of flail along as
far as you can as an artist.

Culture
14. Art | 18. Musician | 20. Chef Spotlight | 22. Events
Artist
Changing the Game:
Inspired Natives,
Thriving Natives
Louie Gong’s
Eighth Generation
Artist and business owner Louie Gong displays
one of the wool blankets he designed.

DURING A RECENT ARTIST-IN-RESIDENCE
stint at Seattle’s Eighth Generation flagship store
at Pike Place Market, Native American artist Joe
Seymour (Squaxin Island/Pueblo of Acoma) wore
a black T-shirt with large white letters that read,
“Real Indian Artist.”
As part of his presentation weaving together
cultural art and contemporary performance, Seymour
would not speak until a visitor placed a dollar
into a jar.
Louie Gong (Nooksack), founder of Eighth
Generation and himself an artist, said Seymour’s
performance made a bold statement “about Indian
identity and the tendency of mainstream society
to tokenize or commodify ‘Indianness.’” He
said anytime Native people are involved, “we always
have to answer the question—whether people
ask us or not, ‘To what extent do we match up
with people’s expectations?’”
Seymour is one of ten Native artists invited this
year to showcase their art through the company’s
artist-in-residence program, just one of the many
aspects of Eighth Generation’s business practices
that are changing the way people think about Native
art, artists and entrepreneurs.
Eighth Generation’s tagline is “Inspired Natives,
not ‘Native-Inspired,’” reflecting Gong’s goal
of empowering Native artists in the region and
across the country to become successful entrepreneurs
while educating the public about the damaging
aspects of cultural appropriation.
“I think that cultural art is like any natural resource,”
Gong said. “If large companies keep taking
from it and taking from it, they can destroy it
or dilute it beyond all meaning.”
Repeatedly presenting counterfeit Native art,
Gong said, undermines the power of the art form.
“We want people to know that cultural appropriation
affects the bottom line. It’s not just about
hurt feelings.”
The Beginning
In 2006, Gong, who had little art experience,
was tasked with painting drums as gifts for visiting
participants of the annual canoe journey
hosted that year by the Muckleshoot Tribal College
where he worked as an educational resources
coordinator.
A few months later, he doodled his own version
of a traditional Northwest Native design on
a pair of Vans shoes—“Louie-izing” them.
Suddenly, everyone wanted a custom
ontrakmag.com FALL 2017 | 15

pair of Gong’s shoes, and his designs
became so popular that he launched
his entrepreneurial career. Eighth
Generation was born. The company
later became the first Native-owned
business to produce wool blankets.
Colleen Echohawk (Pawnee/Upper
Ahtna Athabascan), executive director
of the Chief Seattle Club, a Pioneer
Square nonprofit that provides assistance
for urban Native people and
works on issues of indigenous homelessness,
said Eighth Generation is a
game-changer in many ways and fills
her with an immense sense of pride.
“There are very few places in this
city that show examples of traditional
Coast Salish culture,” Echohawk said,
adding that many of Seattle’s celebrated
totem poles “are typically stolen
from Alaska, or appropriated.”
Gong’s work, mission, business
philosophy, giving programs and
community collaboration are also
inspiring, Echohawk said. “I work in
homelessness and understand that we
have to find our own solutions. We
have to take control.”
The club, under Echohawk’s leadership,
is preparing to build an adjacent
housing unit to provide homes for
about 100 indigenous homeless people.
She said the building itself, like
Eighth Generation, is designed to represent
Salish culture and will include
an art gallery, medical clinic and café.
She said the development process is
daunting, but Gong has inspired her
to see it through and create another
center of pride in the city.
“I have no idea what I’m doing,”
Echohawk said with a laugh, before
turning serious. “But I’m following
Louie’s example and it feels easier because
of the work he has pioneered.”
Developing Artrepreneurs
Eighth Generation, which opened
the Pike Place store last August, works
with talented Native arts entrepreneurs
across the country as part of its
“Inspired Natives” effort. That includes
jewelry artist Michelle Lowden, from
Acoma Pueblo, New Mexico; Sarah
Agaton Howes of Minnesota, an Anishinaabe
artist known for her handmade
regalia and moccasins; and Kyle
Reyes (Filipino/Hawaiian/Japanese), a
Utah-based artist and owner of Three
Canoes Design. They contract with the
company to brand their products under
the Eighth Generation label.
The collaboration is making it
possible for these artists to make
a living through their art, Gong
said. “A mortgage-paying, choicemaking
difference.”
Recently, Eighth Generation
launched some new collaborative
projects with other Seattle companies,
including curating special ice cream
flavors for the month of September
with Central District Ice Cream and
working with Seattle’s Chocolati Café
to create art-based chocolates presenting
flavor combinations influenced by
Eighth Generation’s indigenous
experience, along with Seattle’s
Native history and culture.
16 | FALL 2017
ontrakmag.com

ABOVE Louie Gong displays his newest blanket design
outside his store in Seattle’s Pike Place Market.
AT LEFT, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Gong
stands in the Eighth Generation studio, where artists
collaborate on designs. Smartphone cases in production—some
simple digital prints, others intricately
hand-assembled. Gong signs a new art print.
The combination of art and chocolate
will be “something you won’t find
anywhere else in the world,” Gong
said—an apt description not just of
the chocolate, but of Eighth Generation
itself.
As more and more people join the
movement to bring awareness to and
stop cultural appropriation while
empowering Native entrepreneurs
and others, the work will get easier,
Gong said.
“We aren’t far off from the tipping
point. Native people are not just here,
we are thriving.”
ontrakmag.com FALL 2017 | 17

Musicians
CENTER STAGE & UP 'N' COMING
Making Musical Moments
This Patch of Sky does it all,
without saying a word
This Patch of Sky
Album Review
In an era of singles and the shuffle button, This
Patch of Sky proves a full-length album can still take
you on a journey. On These Small Spaces, the band
rises and falls together like a single, inextricably
connected being, and the album’s nine tracks run
together, interwoven with mournful guitars, elegant
cello, atmospheric effects, tasteful percussion and
other well-placed sounds. Every bit has a purpose—
nothing seems out of place. On These Small Spaces,
This Patch of Sky proves itself worthy to sit alongside
iconic post-rock bands like Explosions in the
Sky and Sigur Ros. There is no higher compliment.
Train Tracks
| All available on Spotify
“Bella Muerte” from These Small Spaces
This juxtaposition of warm drones, lively drums and a playful cello melody adds
up to arguably the most accessible song on This Patch of Sky’s new album.
“Love is in Beauty and Chaos” from This Patch of Sky
Chiming guitars propel the crescendo in this gorgeous song, which might be This
Patch of Sky’s most movie-soundtrack-ready work yet. And that’s saying something.
“Pale Lights” from These Small Spaces
This five-minute slab of sound starts off like a huge ship leaving harbor before
evolving into a thicket of pitter-patter percussion and winsome strings.
“Ten Thousand Hours” from Heroes and Ghosts
An oldie but a goodie, this song finds This Patch of Sky in its most straightforward
rock ‘n’ roll mode, building a slow-burning song into an explosive peak.
“The Winter Day Declining” from This Patch of Sky
Gentle, bulbous keyboard tones dance around a particularly deep and dark cello
line, giving this song a disorienting feel until its triumphant denouement.
THIS PATCH OF SKY specializes not just in making music, but
also moments. Moments of playful euphoria. Of starry-eyed
wonder. Of heart-swelling solemnity.
And the Eugene six-piece does it all without uttering a word.
“It’s really easy for us to say what we want to say with our
instruments and without actually saying anything into a microphone,”
drummer TJ Martin-Lokey said. “Playing live feels almost
like a journey through the cosmos in a way, with just how
massive (the music) gets.”
The band’s new album These Small Spaces is a stirring testament
to the power of dynamics, with quiet ambient passages
and delicate string sections sitting seamlessly alongside crashing
cymbals and guitar-rock crescendos. Across nine tracks, This
Patch of Sky effortlessly builds introspective quietudes into cinematic
post-rock peaks, with the prominent inclusion of warm,
rich cello tones to keep these songs tethered to Earth.
It is, perhaps, that final quality that makes This Patch of Sky’s
music resonate so strongly with just about anyone who listens.
It feels intimate and engaging, even as it soars.
“That’s the moment for me: when we get to make people really,
really feel something powerful,” Martin-Lokey said. “That’s
what this band is all about.”
Scan to listen
on Spotify
This Patch of Sky’s latest
album, These Small Spaces.

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Chef Spotlight
India, in Portland
Bollywood Theater
serves up from-scratch
Indian street food
AT BOLLYWOOD THEATER in Portland, chef
and owner Troy MacLarty takes freshness to
heights rarely seen. Between his two locations,
he and his crew send out 2,000 to 3,000 plates
daily from an all-from-scratch kitchen.
Kati rolls are his biggest sellers. The flat bread
is formed four to six times a day to produce
125,000 rolls a year for a faithful following willing
to stand in lines out the door on weekends.
It is MacLarty’s inspired and passionate interpretation
of Indian street food for which the
masses clamor.
From two kitchens that mirror one another, Indian
staples like ghee (a type of clarified butter),
more than a dozen masalas, marinated paneer,
paratha, kati marinade, cabbage slaw, green chutney,
sweet & hot (an Indian condiment similar
to spicy ketchup), bhel puri (the closest thing to
a salad in Indian cuisine featuring nineteen different
ingredients) and papri crackers are created
and then served to a slew of satisfied diners.
Thanks to his annual travels to India, MacLarty
is nailing the atmosphere as well as the menu.
“We do our best to put our food in the proper
cultural context so that it makes sense to our diners,”
MacLarty said. “Ordering at a counter and
eating off steel plates in a loud and boisterous
room adds to the experience. It wouldn’t make
sense to eat street food in a fine dining setting.”
His favorite menu item is dahi papri chaat, a
sort of Indian comfort food with a Northwest
twist that he strives for.

AT LEFT The walls of Bollywood Theater in Portland are filled with souvenirs and mementos from India, many of which are sent by diners to chef and owner Troy MacLarty. ABOVE, CLOCKWISE
FROM TOP LEFT MacLarty on site. A kati roll, a restaurant bestseller, is surrounded by mango lassi, fried green chilis and snack mix. Diners at the Alberta Street location. Beets roasted with
coconut milk and curry leaves.
ontrakmag.com FALL 2017 | 21

Oregon
EVENTS CALENDAR
Sitka Art Invitational
World Forestry Center, Miller Hall
November 4-5
sitkacenter.org
At the 24th annual Sitka Art Invitational, find nature-inspired artwork.
Sculpture, ceramics, metalwork, glass, paintings, book art and prints
are all available from more than 140 artists from around the Northwest.
Sales revenues are shared equally between the arts community and
Sitka’s programs.
Eugene
MOUNT PISGAH ARBORETUM
MUSHROOM FESTIVAL
Mount Pisgah Arboretum
October 29
$8 suggested donation
mountpisgaharboretum.com
All things mushroom will be
celebrated at this one-day
festival. The event from 10
a.m. to 5 p.m. will feature
more than 300 local species
of mushroom, vendors selling
plants and guided nature walks
with naturalists, kids’ crafts and
cooking demonstrations.
EUGENE COMIC CON
Lane Events Center
November 11-12
$15-30
eugenecomiccon.com
Get in touch with your love of
comics, video games and movies
at EUCON. Panels featuring
artists and writers, as well as
cosplay, gaming and special
guests including actors from
Twin Peaks and The Walking Dead
mean a guaranteed good time.
22 | FALL 2017
FROZEN TRAIL RUNFEST
Buford Park
December 9
$20-55
level32racing.com
Just because it’s cold out
doesn’t mean there’s no room
to run. Stay warm by running
either the 5K, 15K, 25K or 50K.
The challenging courses gain
hundreds of feet in elevation.
Albany
BOO BOOGIE BASH ROUGH
STOCK RODEO
Linn County Fair & Expo Center
October 21
$12 in advance, $15 day of event
albanyvisitors.com
It’s not Oregon if there’s not
a rodeo going on. This one
features the traditional—barrel
racing, bareback, saddle bronc
and bull riding. But it’s also
offering mutton bustin’ and
dancing horses—sure to delight
the entire family (plus, kids 5
and under are free).
Salem
OREGON’S BOUNTY: A
CELEBRATION OF THE
HARVEST AT OREGON STATE
CAPITOL
Oregon State Capitol
October 7
Free
oregoncapitolfoundation.org
Crops harvested in Oregon will
be on display, with hands-on
activities and displays designed
to educate kids and adults
alike about the importance of
Oregon’s agriculture. The event,
from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., will also
include a pumpkin patch, baby
animals, an antique tractor
display, and of course, Oregon’s
Dairy Princesses.
DETROIT LAKE MUD RUN
Detroit Lake Recreation Area
October 14
$25-40
runwildadventures.com
Each fall, when summer has
passed, Detroit Lake is drained.
Now’s your chance to run a
challenging, 6-mile course
through the lake bed—full of
mud, water, rocks and hills.
Packet pickup starts at 7:30 a.m.
HOLIDAYS AT THE CAPITOL &
TREE LIGHTING CELEBRATION
Oregon State Capitol
November 28, November
29-December 22
Free
oregoncapitolfoundation.org
Kick off the holidays with a
tree lighting celebration on
November 28 from 5 to 6:30
p.m., then enjoy visiting choirs
from around the state filling the
Capitol Rotunda with seasonal
music from November 29
through December 22.
Portland
PORTLAND RETRO GAMING
EXPO
Oregon Convention Center
October 20-22
$39 for a weekend pass at the
door
retrogamingexpo.com
Since 2006, this expo has
been celebrating classic video
and arcade games, from Atari
to Nintendo and beyond.
Speakers, exhibits, panels and
tournaments will take place
throughout the weekend.
Perhaps the best part? The expo
features an arcade filled with
games—challenge your buddy to
see who truly rules at Joust.
OMSI AFTER DARK: SPIRITS
Oregon Museum of Science &
Industry
October 25
$7.50-15
omsi.edu
Get into the Halloween spirit—
don a costume and learn about
science without the kids around.
This 21+ event offers beer,
wine, snacks and science. You’ll
have the run of OMSI, plus
access to science experts doing
experiments. OMSI offers After
Dark events monthly.
SITKA ART INVITATIONAL
World Forestry Center,
Miller Hall
November 4-5
sitkacenter.org
At the 24th annual Sitka Art
Invitational, find nature-inspired
artwork. Sculpture, ceramics,
metalwork, glass, paintings, book
art and prints are all available
from more than 140 artists from
around the Northwest. Sales
revenues are shared equally
between the arts community and
Sitka’s programs.
WORDSTOCK
Portland Art Museum &
surrounding locations
November 11
$15-18
literary-arts.org
Portland’s one-day beloved
celebration of literature is back
with a bevy of local and national
authors, as well as readings and
workshops. Cost of admission
includes a $5 voucher for
books available at the book fair.
Admission is free for those 17
and younger and for military and
veterans, as well as students
with a high school ID.
ZOOLIGHTS
Oregon Zoo
November 24-January 1
$4.95-14.95
oregonzoo.org
It’s not the holidays without
Oregon Zoo’s ZooLights—when
seemingly every surface around
the zoo is covered in more than
a million and a half twinkling
lights. ZooLights start at 5 p.m.
every evening and end at 9 p.m.,
allowing you to see the zoo in a
totally different light.
CHRISTMAS SHIPS
Columbia and Willamette rivers
December 1-21
Free
christmasships.org
A Portland tradition since 1954,
the Christmas Ships are a fleet of
between fifty-five and sixty boats
decked out in holiday lights and
ready to delight viewers along
the banks of the Columbia and
Willamette rivers. Grab a spot
at a riverside restaurant or an
out-of-the-way parking spot and
watch the parade nearly every
night in December.
STUMPTOWN SANTACON
Old Town Chinatown
December 16
$10 for a wristband
stumptownevents.org
Dust off that Santa suit and head
out for a drink and to support
a good cause. Stumptown
SantaCon’s theme this year
is Misfit Toys, and costumed
revelers will hit a set list of bars
throughout Portland. One of
several competing SantaCons
in Portland, the Stumptown
SantaCon is a charity event—
some of the proceeds go to
the Portland Police Sunshine
Division, with funds raised from
wrist bands and other support.
ontrakmag.com

Washington
EVENTS CALENDAR
Free Entrance Day
to National Parks
Mount Rainier National Park (and others)
November 11-12
Free
nps.gov
Help the National Park Service celebrate its second 100 years by
visiting a park in 2017. The final free entrance days this year are during
Veterans Day weekend, so take a trip to Mount Rainier or farther afield
to Olympic National Park or North Cascades National Park.
Vancouver
DINE THE COUVE
Restaurants around the city
October 1-31
$23 for special meals
visitvancouverusa.com/
dinethecouve
The month of October is the
best time for foodies to visit
Vancouver. Fourteen restaurants
and six breweries and tasting
rooms will participate in the city’s
dining month, with three for $23
menus and $3 drink specials.
OLD APPLE TREE FESTIVAL
Old Apple Tree Park
October 7
Free
cityofvancouver.us
The Old Apple Tree Festival
celebrates the oldest living apple
tree in the Northwest, which
was planted at Fort Vancouver
in 1826. From 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.,
the Urban Forestry Commission
will give away a limited number
of cuttings from the tree. Visitors
can bring their own apples
and clean containers for a
community apple cider pressing.
24 | FALL 2017
Olympia
OYSTERFEST
Shelton
October 7-8
$5
oysterfest.org
The 36th annual OysterFest in
Shelton hosts the West Coast
Oyster Shucking Championships
and is the state’s official seafood
festival. Get your oyster fill with
nearly 100 items in the food
pavilion, from fritters to spring
rolls. Admission and other
money raised helps support
local nonprofits.
Tacoma
PUMPKIN STOMP & CHOMP
Northwest Trek Wildlife Park
October 28
$10.25-22.25
nwtrek.org
Take a stroll (or ride the
Discovery Tram) through the
Northwest Trek Wildlife Park,
watching a variety of animals
get into the fall spirit with
pumpkin treats.
WASHED ASHORE: ART TO
SAVE THE SEA
Point Defiance Zoo & Aquarium
Through October 21
Included with admission
Olympic Peninsula Visitors Bureau
pdza.org
Artists have transformed plastic
ocean trash—bottles, sand toys
and other detritus—into ten
huge sea creature sculptures,
including a shark, parrot fish
and penguin. The sculptures are
located throughout the Point
Defiance Zoo & Aquarium and
are part of a nonprofit project.
SOUTH SOUND CRAFT BEER
FESTIVAL
Tacoma Dome
October 28
$20 in advance, $25 at the door
washingtonbeer.com
In its fourth year, the South
Sound Craft Beer Festival brings
together forty Washington
breweries to pour more than 150
craft beers. Delight your senses
with Halloween-themed, harvest
seasonal and some winter
beers at the event. Food is also
available for purchase.
SQUID FISHING DERBY
Point Defiance Marina
November 4
Free
Watch (or participate) in a timed
squid derby—whoever catches
the most squid wins prizes. The
derby begins at 4 p.m. and goes
til 6 p.m., with the total weight
of squid used to determine
winners. Millions of squid return
to the area to spawn every
year—you could be cooking up
calamari before you know it!
Seattle
BRICKCON EXHIBITION 2017
Seattle Center Exhibition Hall
October 7-8
$8-12
brickcon.org
This annual convention of adult
LEGO builders is a four-day
event, but the builders exhibit
their work on Saturday and
Sunday. These creations include
huge scenes using thousands of
LEGOs. Kids are also invited to
build their own creations in the
“building zone,” which are then
put on display.
SEATTLE RESTAURANT WEEK
Various locations
October 15-November 2
$33 for 3-course dinner
seattlerestaurantweek.com
More than 165 restaurants
participate in the twice annual
Seattle Restaurant Week (which
is actually three weeks long).
Find a new favorite food and
enjoy chefs’ culinary creativity—
participating restaurants offer
the special meals Sundays
through Thursdays and brunch
is not included. Three-course
dinners are $33, and two-course
lunches are $18.
FREE ENTRANCE DAY TO
NATIONAL PARKS
Mount Rainier National Park
(and others)
November 11-12
Free
nps.gov
Help the National Park Service
celebrate its second 100 years
by visiting a park in 2017. The
final free entrance days this
year are during Veterans Day
weekend, so take a trip to Mount
Rainier or farther afield to
Olympic National Park or North
Cascades National Park.
SEATTLE MARATHON
Seattle Center
November 26
$85-170
seattlemarathon.org
Join 15,000 of your closest
friends on Thanksgiving
weekend by running or walking
a half marathon or marathon
through Seattle’s beautiful
neighborhoods. The run skirts
Lake Washington and includes
a short jaunt along the I-90
floating bridge to Mercer Island.
Everett
ODDMALL: EMPORIUM OF
THE WEIRD
Everett Community College
November 18-19
Free admission
oddmall.co
More than a hundred booths
manned by authors, artists,
crafters and illustrators who have
come together to celebrate the
Pacific Northwest’s weirdness.
Edmonds
EDMONDS TREE LIGHTING
Centennial Plaza
November 25
Free
edmondswa.gov
Kick the winter season into high
gear with a tree lighting, as well
as free cookies and cider, music,
caroling and photos with
Santa Claus.
Bellingham
DOCTOBER
Pickford Film Center
October 1-31
$10.75 general admission
pickfordfilmcenter.org
Every October, the film center
celebrates documentary films for
the entire month. In 2016 that
meant more than fifty films in
the lineup.
CORNHOLE TOURNAMENT
Ferndale Boys & Girls Club
October 21
$20
whatcomclubs.org
Think you’re the king of the
tailgate game cornhole?
Compete for a cause at the
Boys & Girls Clubs of Whatcom
County’s annual cornhole
tournament. Proceeds from the
event benefit the clubs.
ontrakmag.com

Vancouver, BC
EVENTS CALENDAR
Vancouver Writers Fest
Granville Island
October 16-22
Free, some events have fees
writersfest.bc.ca
The thirtieth annual writers festival includes nearly a hundred events
and more than 110 authors. With writers like Salmon Rushdie and
Jennifer Egan participating in special readings and panels, this event
has something for everyone, including children.
AMAZONIA: THE RIGHTS OF
NATURE
Museum of Anthropology at
UBC
Through January 28 (closed
Mondays)
C$18
arts.ubc.ca/
The university’s Museum of
Anthropology features an exhibit
on the “rights of nature,’ an
environmentalist idea growing
in popularity in international
law—that nature should have
the same rights as humans.
This collection explores that
idea through South American
cultures that share the
Amazonian basin.
TROUT LAKE FARMERS
MARKET
John Hendry Park
Saturdays through October 21
Free
eatlocal.org/markets/trout-lake
Vancouver’s farmers market
started as squatters at the
Croatian Cultural Centre in 1995.
Today it’s the city’s most loved
and well-known market. Find
Vancouver delicacies, including
cherries and peaches.
DIWALI FESTIVAL
Multiple locations
October 5-17
Prices vary
diwalifest.ca
The annual South Asian arts
and culture festival will have
you dancing and celebrating
multiculturalism and
inclusiveness before you know
it. With a slogan of “Light your
Spirit,” the festival provides an
opportunity to learn more about
South Asian culture. Celebrate
Diwali with music and dancing, or
take a cooking or painting class.
CRANBERRY FESTIVAL
Fort Langley National Historic
Site
October 7
Free
fortlangley.com/bia/cranfest
Every year, more than 60,000
visitors come to Fort Langley
to celebrate the glory of the
cranberry. In addition to a
cranberry-themed market
and family activities, gorge
on a pancake breakfast and
don’t forget to check out the
cranberry stomp. Admission
is free in 2017 to celebrate
Canada’s 150th birthday.
Chris Cameron
JIMMY BUFFETT & THE CORAL
REEFER BAND
Rogers Arena
October 13
C$50.50 and up
Parrotheads, rejoice: for the first
time in twenty-four years, the
island vibe of Jimmy Buffett’s
Margaritaville comes to Vancouver
for a concert. Grab your best
Hawaiian print shirt, take a deep
breath and relax with Buffett’s
laid-back musical stylings.
VANCOUVER WRITERS FEST
Granville Island
October 16-22
Free, some events have fees
writersfest.bc.ca
The thirtieth annual writers
festival includes nearly a
hundred events and more than
110 authors. With writers like
Salmon Rushdie and Jennifer
Egan participating in special
readings and panels, this event
has something for everyone,
including children.
PARADE OF LOST SOULS
FESTIVAL
Napier and Commercial Drive,
East Vancouver
October 29
$5 suggested donation
dustyflowerpotcabaret.com
This nonprofit event has
taken place for decades in
Vancouver—a parade of people
clad in Halloween costumes
taking in live entertainment and
performances. Join the adultsonly
after party for more revelry.
EAST KOOTENAY WINE
FESTIVAL
Fairmont Hot Springs Resort
November 4
C$69
fairmonthotsprings.com
An annual sellout, this event
each November offers wines
to taste from many of British
Columbia’s most notable
wineries. Housemade bites,
wine-tasting and an after party
with a live band make this a
must for wine lovers.
EAT! VANCOUVER FOOD &
COOKING FESTIVAL
November 6-11
C$65-135
eat-vancouver.com
This world-class culinary
festival supports Project CHEF,
a nonprofit program that works
with Vancouver schools to teach
kids about healthy food. Chefs
from around Canada come to
the festival and join foodies
for classes, dinners and other
events, including a chance to try
desserts from some of the top
pastry chefs.
EASTSIDE CULTURE CRAWL
Various locations
November 16-19
Free
culturecrawl.ca
This four-day visual arts, design
and craft festival brings more
than 20,000 visitors to check
out artists’ studios in this
creative neighborhood. The
event has grown over the past
twenty years to include nearly
500 artists participating. A
shuttle and a bike valet have
been available in past years.
FRASER VALLEY BALD EAGLE
FEST
Harrison Mills
November 18-19
Free
fraservalleybaldeaglefestival.ca
Get back to nature with the
Fraser Valley Bald Eagle Festival,
a free, two-day celebration of one
of the world’s largest migratory
gatherings of bald eagles. Join
experts for eagle viewing, as well
as nature walks, conservation
discussions and more.
DOUGLAS DAY
Fort Langley
November 19
Free
pc.gc.ca/en/lhn-nhs/bc/langley
Celebrate British Columbia’s
birthday on November 19,
when in 1858 James Douglas
proclaimed BC a crown colony at
Fort Langley.
HYDE CREEK SALMON
FESTIVAL
Hyde Creek Education Centre &
Hatchery
November 19
Free
hydecreek.org
Celebrate salmon with “instream
demonstrations” and
dissections, as well as guided
nature walks and tours of the
salmon hatchery.
VANCOUVER CHRISTMAS
MARKET
Jack Poole Plaza
November 22-December 24
C$8 for adults
vancouverchristmasmarket..com
It’s hard not to feel festive at this
annual market, which features
more than seventy-five vendors
offering treats and gifts. There
are German delicacies like
mulled wine and sausages, as
well as a carousel, a 30-foot
walk-in Christmas tree filled with
thousands of lights, and other
family activities.
ontrakmag.com FALL 2017 | 25

Outdoors
26. Athlete | 30. Notes from the Adventure
Ahead of the Pack
Senior Kimberly
Keever tries to get
UW’s soccer team
on track
KIMBERLY KEEVER IS a senior at the University of Washington, studying
psychology. She’s also a starting forward for the Husky women’s soccer team,
and last year was a second-team All-PAC 12 player.
She’s played in nearly every game during her career as a Husky, including
every game her sophomore and junior years. This year, she’ll be a veteran senior
leader, someone the team must look to when the games are on the line—
and she’s ready.
The team, which finished second to last in the PAC-12 last year, has high
hopes, especially since five of the Huskies’ conference losses were by one goal.
This year Keever and her teammates have twenty games to prove they’re worthy,
starting with a swing through the Midwest in August and finishing with
in-state rival Washington State University in November.
What happens during preseason?
Preseason has been pretty crazy so
far. Every day we have practice and
then do lifting. We’re doing meals
with the team—our coaches like
having lots of bonding activities
for us to do, because being on a
soccer team, like any sports team
where you play all together, it’s
a lot easier I think if you know
everyone, if you have a connection
on and off the field. Yesterday we
did a scavenger hunt in our cars
and today are going to do nutrition
and be taught how to cook properly
for ourselves. There are just lots
of different things going on right
now. It’s very well-rounded—we
practice each morning, about 80
to 90 minutes after warmup, and
then we lift two to three times a
week. Then we have other stuff
like nutrition, fun, bonding on the
field. Then we’ll have a campout
on our soccer field, which has
become a tradition for us.
We will sleep under the
stars on our home field, and
Scott Eklund/
Red Box Pictures

KIMBERLY KEEVER
Age: 21
Hometown:
Manhattan Beach,
California
Notable
achievements:
All-PAC-12 Second
Team, 2016
Scott Eklund/Red Box Pictures
Kimberly Keever (20) and the University of Washington women’s soccer team play Utah in 2016.
we can kind of bond with our field.
I think sometimes people forget that college athletes
also have to go to school—how do you fit it in?
We’re kind of lucky—classes don’t start until halfway
through season so we have a month and a half to prepare
for school. Once school starts we can’t meet as team as
often, and we have classes starting at 11:30 a.m. and going
throughout the day. But we meet in the morning and
either do a lifting session and practice or just a practice.
A lot of us meet for dinner at 5:30 p.m. We do miss a
lot of school—we have Thursday and Sunday games, so
(for away games) we have to leave around Tuesday or
Wednesday, and that means we’re missing half the week.
We try to get in contact with our professors really early
on and hand them our schedule of what days we’ll be
gone so they know we’re not just ditching school. And
we’re in charge of finding someone to get us the notes.
Sometimes if a teacher’s cool they’ll put up their slides
and give us their notes. I haven’t run into too many
mean professors.
What are your goals for this year?
The kind of sad part about last year is that we were in
every game, we were able to compete with everyone.
USC won the national championship and we lost 1-0 to
them. We just couldn’t finish games off. So we want to
keep working as a unit and staying strong throughout
the game so nothing like that happens again. Personally,
it’s obviously a big year for me being a senior, and my
goal is to play professionally, so hopefully I’ll be able to
have a good year so I can be recognized (by pro teams).
Seattle’s a big soccer town. Does that extend to
support for your team?
For sure. We go around and people are like, ‘Do you play
soccer for UW?’ And they get really excited, the little kids
especially. It’s kind of cool being a role model for them
to look up to, and it’s awesome to have them at games.
Some of them are our ball girls, which is cool.

Notes from the Adventure
TRAVELER’S GUIDE TO FUN
HIKING
the High Desert
The Oregon Desert Trail is challenging,
cross-country trekking

The view in the Leslie Gulch tuff.
FOR MILES, THE ONLY sound we heard
was the swish of wild grasses in the breeze,
nostrils filled with menthol-sweet sage
brush, perfect blue cloudless sky above,
and its reflection in the water below—way
below. Looking out across the Owyhee
River canyon to the towering red rock
walls on its opposite shore, we could have
been anywhere in the Southwest. Instead,
my husband, Jason, and I were in a remote
corner of southeastern Oregon, spending
a weekend hiking a 27-mile loop on the
Oregon Desert Trail. We began near its
eastern terminus at Leslie Gulch, about 50
miles from the Idaho border.
Deciding to hike in spring, when the
reservoir’s water level is at its highest,
means following the canyon’s rim, mountain-goating
along its rocky edges. In the
fall, when the water levels are at their lowest,
the trail is much different (and the
route I’d recommend). You can hug the
shoreline and wade or even raft down the
river. That is both the beauty and challenge
of the Oregon Desert Trail—that little red
line on the map is more a suggestion.
The ODT is a mix of pre-existing
trails, old roads, ATV paths, cow paths
and cross-country routes strung through
Eastern Oregon’s high desert. Only about
fifteen people have hiked the entire 750
miles. Beginning near Bend, the W-shaped
route winds along landscape ranging from
endangered shrub steppe to the alpine forests
of 9,000-foot Steens Mountain, past
hot springs and pictographs, through canyonlands
and cow pastures.
It is the first long distance trail created
and run by a conservation organization,
according to Renee Patrick, Oregon
Desert Trail coordinator for the Oregon
Natural Desert Association, a nonprofit
that works to protect and restore
the state’s high desert. Patrick, who has
logged more than 10,000 miles on nine
different long trails, including the ODT,
warns that the terrain is not for everyone.
Most of the trail requires hikers to
be comfortable with navigation,
since there are no signs and some
cross-country traversing.

A hiker navigates lupine-filled
fields on the Oregon Desert Trail.
“When you’re on a trail that’s easy to
follow and well-marked, it’s easy to
just zone out, but when it’s a route,
you have to be completely present
and know where you are at all times.”
— Renee Patrick, Oregon Desert Trail coordinator
for the Oregon Natural Desert Association
The solitude is what drew long-distance
hiker Shane von Schlemp, who
completed the trail in thirty-four days
in 2014. Out of the four long trails
he’s hiked, the ODT was his favorite.
“My thru-hike offered a once-in-alifetime
opportunity to experience
the amazing and diverse landscape
in almost complete solitude,” he said.
“The trail pushed me out of my comfort
zone and to grow as an ultra-long
distance adventurer.”
Skirting the Comfort Zone
By mid-morning we broke from the
river and followed a creek through a
ravine of pale yellow tuff (consolidated
volcanic ash), then followed an old
jeep trail into open shrub steppe. After
lunch at our first water source—a
spring-filled cow trough—any semblance
of trail disappeared, and we
broke out the maps and GPS.
Although I consider myself an experienced
hiker, this was my first time
bushwhacking through a cross-country
route, relying on distant mountains
as markers and Jason’s map-reading
skills. Once my stride grew accustomed
to the uneven terrain, my body
adjusted to the slower pace. Wading
through a meadow thick with white
and purple lupines, I discovered they
actually have a scent—a soft clean linen.
Zigzagging up a steep hill, I learned
the heavy hoof-prints of cows make
perfect ladders. When we reached the
top, we spied a pair of pronghorns, the
trail’s mascot, a few hundred feet before
us. The elegant creatures watched
us watching them before bounding off
with surprising speed.
I also learned I am highly allergic
to cheat grass—my nose a constant
drip and my bare legs breaking out
into hives—and that it takes about
twice as long to hike cross-country as
it does on well-trod trail. After about
12 miles, not quite as many as we’d
planned for the first day, we called it a
night beside a cow pond (another water
source). Three cows—the only we
would see the whole trip—ran from
us on a distant hill, silhouetted against
pale twilight blue.
Personal Challenge Meets
Conservation Challenge
Although most of the trail is this
rugged and remote, Patrick recommends
the Freemont National
Recreation Trail section as a
good point of entry, since it is

When
You Go
The Owyhee River canyon.
well-marked and has plenty of shade
and water. Another easily accessed section
is in the Steens Mountain Wilderness,
which ONDA helped designate
as the first cow-free wilderness in the
country in 2000.
“Probably one of the big highlights
of the trail along existing trail tread is
in the Steens, up Big Indian Gorge,”
Patrick said. She recommends starting
from South Steens Campground, where
you can hike to the top and then down
to beautiful Wildhorse Lake.
ONDA doesn’t have any plans to
make the trail more trail-like. “Our
goal is not to build trail. It is to keep it
as a primitive route, but to teach people
how to navigate and how to travel
in this kind of environment,” Patrick
said. “When you’re on a trail that’s easy
to follow and well-marked, it’s easy to
just zone out, but when it’s a route, you
have to be completely present and know
where you are at all times. That level of
awareness kind of gets deeper into the
landscape,” which she says offers an opportunity
for people to engage with land
conservation and management issues.
Owyhee Canyon, often called Oregon’s
Grand Canyon, is one of the areas
ONDA is actively trying to protect, and
Patrick’s favorite section of the trail.
She pack-rafted 140 miles of it last summer.
“It’s one of the last large landscapes
in the U.S. that doesn’t have protection,”
she said. She notes that aside from the
stunning natural beauty, geology, and
Native American history, it was the
adventure she loved. “I didn’t know if I
could pack-raft the whole thing at low
water, so it was kind of ‘Is it possible?
Can I do it?’”
On our second day, I found myself
asking the same question. We followed
more cow trails into Blue Canyon,
looping back to the river again, slogging
through knee-high grasses or heal-toeing
along dizzying slopes. After lunch,
we came upon Echo Rock Hot Springs.
The refillable concrete pool overlooking
the river would be inviting if it wasn’t so
stiflingly hot. After 15 miles, we finally
reached our car as the sun set behind
glowing canyon walls. But even as exhaustion
and another round of sneezing
set in, that pleasant tingling satisfaction
of having completed the challenge is
what I noticed the most.
WHERE TO START
Leslie Gulch
Leslie Gulch Road,
Jordan Valley, OR
Fremont National
Recreation Trail
Fremont National Forest,
Lakeview, OR
South Steens Campground
Steens Mountain Road,
Princeton, OR
BACKPACKING BASICS
It is especially important
to follow Leave No Trace
principles in the backcountry
and sensitive areas of the
Oregon Desert Trail:
• Pack out all your trash
(including TP)
• Dig cat holes where no
outhouses are available
• Choose durable surfaces to
walk and camp on to minimize
impact. “Because we have so
much cross-country travel
in places where we want to
minimize hiker impact as
much as possible, I encourage
them to not follow footsteps
if you see them, to spread out
and to take slightly different
paths,” Oregon Desert Trail
coordinator Renee Patrick
said.
• Learn more at Leave No
Trace Center for Outdoor
Ethics: lnt.org
NAVIGATION TOOLS
Oregon Desert Trail guides,
maps, info on water sources,
and other resources: onda.
org/where-we-work/oregondesert-trail
Learn more about the Oregon
Natural Desert Association’s
work: onda.org
ontrakmag.com FALL 2017 | 33

Weekender
Dining
Along the
Dumpling
Trail
A food fix
in Richmond, BC
Pan-fried shrimp and pork dumplings from
Shanghaiese-style family restaurant Su Hang.
I’VE NEVER LIKED airport towns.
They’re just places that pop up around
metro airports to fill the needs of passengers—expensive
gas stations for rental car
drivers and cheap fast food places for folks
who don’t want to pay terminal prices.
Richmond, British Columbia, upends
that expectation. The home of Vancouver
International Airport has become
an exotic destination in its own right.
With 65 percent of Vancouver’s Asian
population and more than 200 regional
restaurants in just a three-block stretch
of Alexandria Street, it’s North America’s
largest Asian city.
If it weren’t for Tourism Richmond’s
Dumpling Trail, I don’t know how I’d
ever choose. As I quickly learned, the
self-guided walking tour makes restaurant
hopping easier because it simplifies the
cuisines to a simple, easy-to-understand
element: the dumpling.
Since dumplings are small, it also
makes hopping easier and more affordable,
theoretically speaking.

OLYMPICPENINSULA.ORG/RELAX
360-452-8552

EAT
Samsoonie Noodle & Rice
140 – 8211 Westminster Highway
Xi’An Cuisine
Richmond Public Market, second floor
2370 – 8260 Westminster Highway
Su Hang Restaurant
suhang.ca
Jade Restaurant
jaderestaurant.ca
4 Stones Vegetarian Cuisine
fourstonesvegetarian.com
R&H Chinese Food
Lansdowne Food Court
5300 No. 3 Road
STAY
Westin Wall Centre,
Vancouver Airport
westinvancouverairport.com
Four Points by Sheraton
Vancouver Airport
fourpointsvancouverairport.com
PLAY
Richmond Night Market
richmondnightmarket.com
Olympic Experience
at the Richmond Olympic Oval
Richmondoval.ca/therox
My theory held up during lunch at Samsoonie Noodles
and Rice, a Korean restaurant where the top dumpling is
the Mandu, a football-shaped pastry filled with minced
meat. Served with kimchi, it got my day off to a spicy start.
The guo tie (potstickers) at Xi’an Cuisine in the Richmond
Public Market’s food court were top notch, the spicy
wonton made my tastebuds dance and the crispy beef roll
was a pleasant culinary side trip away from dumplings. The
stop also taught me that food courts aren’t necessarily a bad
thing—and reminded me to pace myself. When I left I was
so full I had to wander the aisles of a local supermarket just
to work it off so I could eat again.
I headed to upscale, Shanghaiese-style family restaurant
Su Hang for water boiled dumplings (shui jiao) as well as
steamed vegetable dumplings and was treated to a window
view of the dumpling making. I also ordered the yellow fish
because it was my last meal of the day.
I started the next morning off with a group of journalists
doing dim sum at Jade Restaurant. Since I’m kosher,
I skipped the shrimp and pork and enjoyed the
scallion dumplings.
Don’t cry for me, though. It gave me more room at my
favorite stop of the day, Taiwanese 4 Stones Vegetarian
Restaurant, where everything tasted meaty but wasn’t, including
the gyoza, the ma po tofu and General Tso’s chicken.
Yes, I know, those aren’t all dumpling dishes, but when
it’s this good, I’ll make an exception.
I finished my brief tour by enjoying the most unusual
dumpling of the trip, xiao long bao, at R&H Chinese Food
in the Lansdowne Mall Food Court. Eating it properly
required a deft hand—you have to hold it between chopsticks,
bite into it and suck out the soup before it leaks. I
won’t comment on how successful I was, but I did have to
change shirts after the meal was done.
36 | FALL 2017
ontrakmag.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT
The chef and hostess are seen
in the kitchen through a window
at Su Hang. A chef holds a
freshly rolled steamed soup
bun at Su Hang. Xiao long bao
dumplings are lifted from steam
at R&H Chinese Food in the
Lansdowne Mall Food Court.
ontrakmag.com FALL 2017 | 37

Weekender
MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR WEEKEND
Capital Charm
Olympia isn’t just
another stop on I-5
WRITTEN BY ADAM SAWYER
Ingrid Barrentine, Grit City Photography
Olympia offers a cute downtown, great food and, yes, even a waterfront.
A FEW MONTHS AGO my girlfriend
went to Washington’s state capital for
a work conference. I was conveniently
free and, having never been to Olympia,
took advantage of the room she got at
the Doubletree. I would meet her there
and explore during the day while she was
occupied with business.
I booked a train from Portland. While
the route mostly parallels the interstate,
it pulls away at opportune times into far
more bucolic settings than I-5 provides.
After a journey that skirted a wildlife
refuge, paralleled the mighty Columbia
River and visited open meadows punctuated
by views of Cascade volcanoes,
the train arrived at the Centennial Station
about 10 miles from downtown
Olympia. I hopped on the 94 bus and in
short order was downtown at Dillinger’s
Cocktails & Kitchen to rendezvous with
the lady for cocktails.
The Prohibition-themed bar is right at
home in one of downtown’s many historic
buildings. One drink turned into
three as cocktail hour morphed into
dinner. The roasted duck with herbed
polenta was a fitting end to a wonderful
travel day and a harbinger of good things
to come. The short walk to our hotel was
a welcomed one, and sleep was immediate
and sound.
The next morning I took a leisurely
stroll to the 222 Market for breakfast.
This conglomeration of all things artisanal
is a must see. There’s a bakery,
creperie, broth bar, oyster bar, distillery,
gelato shop and more.
After getting some caffeine to go
from the Batdorf & Bronson Coffeehouse,
I walked up and down Capitol
Way, Olympia’s main drag. It was utterly
charming. I wandered through
an already vibrant stretch of town that
appeared to have much more on the
horizon. Beaming with discovery, I retrieved
our car from the hotel and drove
southwest of town to inspect the Mima
Mounds Natural Preserve.
The collection of oddly perfect,
dome-shaped mounds cover
roughly 640 acres of Puget
EAT
222 Market
222market.com
Iron Rabbit
ironrabbit.net
Three Magnets Brewing
threemagnetsbrewing.com
Dillinger’s Cocktails & Kitchen
dillingerscocktailsandkitchen.com
STAY
Doubletree by Hilton
doubletree3.hilton.com
Swantown Inn & Spa
swantowninn.com
PLAY
Mima Mounds
dnr.wa.gov/MimaMounds
Hands on Children’s Museum
hocm.org
Tumwater Falls Park
olytumfoundation.org/what-we-do/
tumwater-falls-park
38 | FALL 2017
ontrakmag.com

Ingrid Barrentine
prairie grassland. As large as 8 feet tall and 30
feet wide, the mounds are still a bit of a mystery.
Theories range from gophers and earthquakes
to wind-blown sediments and even
extraterrestrial activity. Regardless of origin,
it is a hauntingly beautiful landscape easily
explored via a paved, serpentine path.
That evening my girlfriend and I enjoyed
some remarkable, top-tier beer from Three
Magnets Brewing and a thematically perfect
dinner at the upscale-casual Iron Rabbit before
heading home the next morning. It’s
amazing the things you can overlook—so
many times I’ve zoomed by Olympia heading
to or coming back from somewhere else. Not
anymore. It’s a burgeoning destination with
far more to explore than a weekend can afford.
It’s a good thing my girlfriend’s conference
takes place twice a year.
Iron Rabbit Restaurant & Bar
FROM TOP Three Magnets Brewing owner Nate Reilly pours a beer at the Olympia brewery. The polenta
portobello tower at Iron Rabbit Restaurant & Bar.

A Legacy
of
Persistence
THE LIFE, TIMES AND
MANY TRIALS OF
OREGON’S
MINORU YASUI
AT 8 P.M. ON THE EVENING of Tuesday, March 24, 1942,
Minoru Yasui left his office at the Foster Hotel in what’s
now known as Portland’s Old Town-Chinatown neighborhood,
where he worked as an attorney. He began to wander
the sidewalks. His goal wasn’t to clear his head or to ruminate
on some upcoming case. His goal was to get arrested.
Thirty-three days earlier, President Franklin D. Roosevelt
signed Executive Order 9066, which carved out and declared
a large crescent-shaped piece of land that ran the
entire length of the West Coast as a military zone. The
order also gave broad discretional powers to Lieutenant
General John DeWitt of the Western Defense Command,
who promptly issued Proclamation No. 3, which put in place
in that zone a travel ban and a curfew on German, Italian,
Japanese immigrants and all people of Japanese descent. In
other words, Japanese-Americans born in the United States
who lived in that zone were officially deemed dangerous
by the government. They were forced to sell their homes
and their businesses. And somewhere between 110,000 and
120,000 of the country’s 130,000 people of Japanese
descent were forced into internment camps.

Yasui didn’t think the order passed
constitutional muster, as it singled out
an entire population based on ethnicity—so
he planned to get arrested by violating
the curfew, hoping he could in turn
use it as a test case to challenge those
new restrictions.
It took him three hours, but he was finally
apprehended at 11 p.m., when he walked
into a precinct downtown and demanded
to be detained.
The order stung Yasui on a personal level.
He was born in Hood River, Oregon in 1916.
At the age of 15, he helped found a local
chapter of the Japanese American Citizens
League (JACL). In 1939, he was the first Japanese-American
to earn a law degree from
the University of Oregon, but couldn’t find
work, which makes sense when you consider
that Oregon was founded as a whites-only
utopia that had until a few years before
prevented people of color from even owning
land. So the following year, Yasui packed his
bags and headed to
Chicago, where he
worked as an attaché
for the Consulate
General of
Japan. And then came December 7, 1941.
The day after Pearl Harbor, Yasui resigned
from his post and returned to Oregon,
where he’d hoped to enlist in the military
to help defend the United States. He
was, after all, a Second Lieutenant in the
Army Reserves. But when he reported for
duty in nearby Vancouver, Washington, he
was turned away.
Following his arrest, Yasui would spend
much of the next two years imprisoned
in one way or another. The Oregon ACLU
chose not to take his case. The JACL he
helped found abandoned him. He spent
nine months in solitary confinement at the
Multnomah County Jail, where he awaited
trial for his curfew violation. The judge in
that case ruled that Yasui was right—it was
unconstitutional to apply that law to U.S.
citizens like himself. The judge then add-
ed that Yasui’s
short spell at
the
Japanese
consulate
in
Chicago
demonstrated
his loyalty
to
Yasui, left, during his time
in the ROTC.

FROM TOP Minidoka Internment Camp, circa 1943.
Yasui spent many evening participating several
civil rights groups.
Japan, and that he was therefore no longer a U.S.
citizen. He was then sent to Minidoka internment
camp in Hunt, Idaho, where he lived until 1944.
After his release, Yasui would spend his remaining
days fighting to right the wrongs that the executive
order unleashed.
According to his youngest daughter, Holly Yasui,
her father was a fighter. He tried to enlist
eight more times to serve in the U.S. Army during
World War II, but his criminal record—for breaking
curfew for a law drawn up in a moment of
national hysteria—kept him out.
Today, Holly lives in San Miguel de Allende, a
historic tourist town located about three hours
north of Mexico City, but she grew up in
Denver, where Yasui opened
another law practice
following
his release from the Minidoka internment camp.
But even that almost didn’t happen. Until he lawyered
up, the state of Colorado used that arrest
as a pretext to keep him out of the Colorado bar.
Back then, Holly said, her father was a tireless
advocate of marginalized people. Each night,
he’d return from the office to eat dinner, only
to leave to attend another civil rights meeting.
On weekends, he’d load his three daughters
into his light gray Chrysler station wagon
and drive to downtown Denver to attend more
meetings while his girls would attend ballet or
judo classes or spend the afternoons watching
B-grade samurai movies at the Tri-State Buddhist
Church.
“I thought that was just what dads do,” Holly
recalled. "He seemed to never be not working."
At present, Holly is working on a follow-up
to her 2016 George Takei-narrated documen-
tary Never Give Up! Minoru Yasui and the
Fight for Justice, which tells the story of her
father’s childhood, his arrest and imprisonment
and the many, many battles he led or
helped lead for people of all ethnicities, classes
and economic backgrounds.
After settling in Denver, Yasui founded, joined
or was appointed to multiple civic groups
including the JACL—they were back on

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Yasui, with Denver Urban League in
the '50s. Yasui worked with a variety of groups seeking equality. Yasui
with his Boy Scout troop in the 1950s or 1960s.
good terms—the Urban League of Denver, the Commission
on Community Relations, the Denver Public
Schools Advisory Committee on Equality and Educational
Opportunity, Denver Native Americans United
(now called the Denver Indian Center) and the National
Association of Human Rights Workers. For two
decades, he wrote for several newspapers as either
a columnist, an editor or a publisher. He offered legal
aid to people and organizations who couldn’t afford
it. He “brought down the house” in speech after
speech in Colorado’s—and the nation’s—basements,
barns and churches. And he even found time—
seventeen years’ worth—to be a scoutmaster for
the Boy Scouts of America.
The father of three daughters was many things to
many people, but there was one thing Holly said her
father was not.
“He was definitely
not a
rebel,” she said.
“He
worked
within the system.
I think
that for him,
justice
was
a goal that
guides
you
and your actions.
Justice
is a work in
progress. He
didn’t have a
blind faith in the Constitution. He saw it as a tool, as
a way of getting there. His faith was in the necessity
of action and standing up and speaking out. Where
did that faith come from? I don’t know. He was very
young and idealistic. It makes me wonder if I could
do that—go up against the most powerful government
in the world—at the age of 25.”
Unfortunately, he didn’t live long enough to see
his arguments vindicated—even if that vindication
came without the U.S. government having to admit
it was wrong. In November 1986, while waiting for his
case against Executive Order 9066 to be appealed—
which could overturn his conviction—Yasui died
at the age of 70, having spent more than half his
life fighting the constitutionality of his conviction.
The government dismissed the case, claiming it was
moot in light of Yasui’s death—no plaintiff, no case.
Peggy Nagae, Yasui’s lawyer, continued the fight
anyway, taking it all the way to the Supreme Court,
which ultimately decided to uphold the rulings of the
lower courts.
Still, Yasui’s family would continue to petition leaders
to recognize this remarkable and tenacious man
whose “ornery,” no-fools-suffered oratory style was
on full display when he demanded restitution during
hearings in the 1980s before the U.S. Congress as
the chairman of the JACL’s Committee on Redress.
Eventually, Congress did issue redress—publicly
apologizing to internees, paying them $20,000 each
and initiating a public education fund that continues
to illuminate people about the 75-yearold
injustice.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Yasui at his
work desk in the 1980s. Yasui and his family
at Mt. Hood during his childhood. Yasui was
awarded the Presidential Medal of Freedom
in 2015.
Thirty years after his death,
Yasui is still on the minds of policymakers. Last
year, Oregon Governor Kate Brown signed a bill
naming March 28—the day Yasui broke curfew—Minoru
Yasui Day.
And the year before that,
President Barack Obama
awarded him, posthumously,
the Presidential
Medal of Freedom.
“My father proved that
if you keep on fighting
and stay ever vigilant,
eventually there will be
social change,” Holly
said. “It takes a while to
happen. And it can also
be undone.”
This year, Holly and
her sisters are joining the
sons and daughters of
two other famous Japanese-Americans—Gordon
Hirabayashi and Fred Korematsu,
the only other
Japanese-Americans to openly and publicly resist
Proclamation 3 and internment in courts of law—
to file an amicus brief opposing President Donald
Trump’s travel ban, which the Supreme Court will
hear this fall.
Hirabayashi, born in Seattle, and Fred Korematsu,
born in Oakland, both had cases heard before
the Supreme Court pertaining to their eventual
internment. Hirabayashi, like Yasui, knew the EO
and Proclamation were on shaky legal ground.
And like his fellow activist in the city to his south,
he cleverly turned himself in to the FBI after he
violated his curfew. The only problem with his case
was that nobody wanted to enforce his sentencing.
In fact, officials wouldn’t even transport him
to his assigned camp in Arizona, so he hitchhiked
his way down there. It
was his case and his case
only that the Supreme
Court overturned.
“We need to beware of
the parallels of our history,
because civil rights
are being threatened
again,” Holly warned.
Still, she sees rays of
hope, especially when it
comes to undocumented
workers. Consider
the town of Hood River,
which Holly still sees as
her family’s collective
home base. Both before
but especially after Pearl
Harbor, the Yasui family
was frequently, openly
discriminated against.
These days, Holly said, most people are too savvy
to fall for divisive racist ideology.
“Right now, Hood River’s schools are now [heavily]
Latino,” Holly said. “[The people of Hood River
are] not turning in undocumented workers, because
the whole town would empty out and then
who would do the work?
“If we let these things happen and don’t speak
out, that really matters,” she added. “We can’t get
to that point. We need to stand up now. We need
to be ever vigilant and we need to speak out.”

"For him, justice was a goal that
guides you and your actions [...]
if you keep on fighting and stay
ever vigilant, eventually there will
be social change..."
—Holly Yasui
ontrakmag.com FALL 2017 | 45

An inside view of Gresham's library.
“I RESOLVED IF WEALTH ever came to me, that
it should be used to establish free libraries.”
It might seem a lofty proclamation from an
impoverished young Scottish immigrant. If
his peers chuckled at the arrogance of voicing
such a desire, in later years they may have
watched in amazement as Andrew Carnegie’s
fervent hope became reality.
He fought his way from lowly messenger
boy to king of the steel industry. Dusting
off his long-held dream, he began granting
library funds to cities. Cities had to show the
need for a library, provide the land and be able
to pay yearly maintenance funds of at least 10
percent of the cost of the building.
During his lifetime, he provided funding for
nearly two thousand libraries nationwide,
thirty-one of which were in Oregon. Of all
the states requesting a grant, only two were
able to fulfill their promise to provide land and
maintenance funds in every community that
was offered a grant. Oregon was one.
I began my exploration of Oregon’s Carnegie
libraries out of a fascination with old books.
Beyond the statistics and dollar signs and floor
plans, I discovered so much more than books.
I found people with a passion for community,
for education, for equality between sex and
race. I found people eager to sacrifice and
fight for what they believed they and their
neighbors deserved, so that today, whether
adult or child, black or white, male or female,
we can visit a library, lounge and read, use a
computer or borrow a movie. And that has a
far greater value than numerical worth.

The inside of the Gresham library.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Salem's Carnegie Library is nearly identical to its original look
in 1912. Oregon City's library was built in 1911. Gresham's library, now the historical society,
was designed by Folger Johnson in 1912. North Portland's library is now a bookstore for the
library system.
ontrakmag.com FALL 2017 | 47

FROM LEFT Hood River's 1914 library overlooks the Columbia River. In Albany, the library
opened in 1914 and has the pencil-written letter from Carnegie's secretary in its rooms.
ontrakmag.com FALL 2017 | 49

Local
Bounty
Made Easy
The Puget Sound Food Hub’s
meaningful connections
and positive impact

RESTAURANTS SOURCING LOCAL GOODS is hardly
a new concept—especially here in the Pacific Northwest,
where the bounty is rich and the community mindful.
Yet it’s becoming an even easier goal for chefs to attain,
thanks to the Puget Sound Food Hub (PSFH), a revolutionary,
farmer-owned cooperative—or a “digital farmers
market”—that connects Western Washington farmers
with wholesale buyers online.
In the lush Skagit Valley, located north of Seattle and
home to more than ninety types of crops, dedicated folks
work tirelessly to ensure we have fresh food on our plates
every single day. Thanks to the state’s cool, wet, marine
climate, produce can be grown twelve months of the year,
even if the variety becomes less diverse in winter months.
What began as a weekly wholesale market under a
Mount Vernon I-5 overpass gradually evolved. The Northwest
Agriculture Business Center helped the PSFH, one of
the only farmer-owned food hubs in the Northwest, develop
an online ordering system, source cold storage and create
an aggregated delivery system. PSFH officially became
farmer-owned in 2016, connecting more than fifty family
farms with wholesalers from restaurants (like Seattle’s
iconic Canlis), hotels, hospitals, grocery stores and
universities from Bellingham to Olympia.

THE
LOWDOWN
PSFH’S YEAR-ROUND ITEMS include
vegetables, fruit, dairy, cheese, eggs, meat,
fish and poultry, as well as honey, mushrooms,
a variety of nuts and cut flowers.
The Hub works only with local Washington
farms and ranches that can legally sell their
raw and value-added agricultural products
commercially—and many producers carry
USDA Organic or other third-party certifications,
too.
Tim Terpstra, vice president on the PSFH
board of directors and farm manager at
Ralph’s Greenhouse, one of the biggest Hub
contributors, explained how the system
benefits everyone. “The unique thing,” he
explained of the weekly online fresh sheets
that connect wholesale buyers to dozens of
farmers, “is that instead of restaurants making
ten calls to ten different farms, they get
one invoice and write one check. It’s a oneshot
deal.” He added that, although an easy
drop-down menu appeals to many, PSFH
reps are also happy to chat with chefs wishing
to customize orders.
THE IMPACT
In the end, the online ordering system saves
wholesalers time on sourcing local, fresh food
and helps farmers save time chasing paperwork
and delivering (by using one aggregation
site). Added bonus: Products often get delivered
within twenty-four hours of being
picked, guaranteeing delightfully fresh
flavors.
FROM TOP Tim Terpstra is on the PSFH board. Silva Family Farm's
strawberries are sold to restaurants all over the region.
52 | FALL 2017
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FROM TOP Lummi Island Wild Co-op employees bring in seafood.
Fresh fish from Lummi Island Wild Co-op.
WHO'S
INVOLVED
The list of producers ranges from Bow Hill
Blueberries and Bellingham’s Cascadia Mushrooms
to Lopez Island’s Jones Family Farms,
Sedro-Woolley’s Skagit River Ranch and Oak
Harbor’s Hunters Moon Farm. It includes Silva
Family Farm, home to the tastiest organic Albion
strawberries, and the Lummi Island Wild Co-op,
whose salmon, tuna and caviar offerings will have
you rethinking seafood from here on out.
Another participant is Growing Veterans, an
organization that empowers military veterans
"to grow food, communities and each other," or
something they lovingly refer to as "dirt therapy."
On two farms with 38 acres of organic land, GV
attempts to “end the isolation that leads to suicide
and make sustainable agriculture the norm.” The
result? “Lots of little miracles,” thanks to a community
of brilliant folks who are deeply
dedicated to the mission.
ontrakmag.com FALL 2017 | 53

RALPH'S
GREENHOUSE
TERPSTRA, NOW IN HIS FIFTEENTH SEASON with Ralph’s
Greenhouse, has been involved since The Hub’s beginning. He remembers
taking a few cases in a minivan to sell under the overpass
and thinking, “This is cute.” In fact, Ralph’s Greenhouse initially
made so little money that he admits, “I wouldn’t tell [my boss] how
inefficient it actually was.” Although he’s always supported the idea,
Terpstra never thought the concept would take off. “Unfortunately,
you can’t run a business purely off fuzzy, warm feelings,” he said.
“You need an economic return.”
Thankfully, though, hopeful advocates stuck it out and have
watched the program grow ever since. “How cool is it,” Terpstra said,
“that now it’s become a meaningful, helpful outlet for producers?
FROM LEFT Workers harvest vegtables
at Ralph's Greenhouse. An assembly line
processes the produce by hand.
They’re getting paid, and the best part is they’re selling into the local
food shed.”
Terpstra credits customers’ consciousness and awareness for driving
the growing demand for local and organic goods. “It’s really cool to see
that people do care,” he said. “Customers, restaurants and chefs are interested
in buying and eating local, but it’s not always easy to do. The
idea is for us to make it easier.”
“It’s been really fun to see some of the others we work with grow with
us,” Terpstra said, praising producers who previously sold only at farmers
markets and now enjoy a taste of the wholesale world. He
also loves knowing where his team’s hard work is going—and
seeing the fruits of their labor on menus around town.

Rosario Resort
Chef Ray Southern and some of the dishes he
creates wth fresh produce from the Food Hub.
MANSION
RESTAURANT
AT ORCAS ISLAND’S
Rosario Resort, Chef Ray
Southern first learned of
the PSFH through word of
mouth. “When I first took over at the Mansion Restaurant, it was important
to reach out to not only the farmers here on Orcas Island but
also those of the surrounding islands and the Skagit Valley,” he said.
Among his favorite PSFH sources, Southern lists Samish Bay
Cheese (he loves the yogurt and labneh), Lummi Island Wild Co-op
(he raves about the sustainable fish practices and albacore tuna). He
names Hedlin, Viva, Osprey and Ralph's Greenhouse among favorite
farms, and garlic scapes, beets, radish, white turnips, fava beans and
English peas as preferred items. Every summer he makes ice cream
with the first English peas.
“I love the convenience of the online ordering combined with being
able to also have a personal relationship with each of the farmers and
producers,” he said. “Having the Food Hub take care of the business
side of things lets the farmers concentrate on what they do best.”
Southern supports local farmers because of the taste. “There is
nothing better than pulling a carrot out of the ground, brushing the
dirt off and eating it right there,” said the farm-raised chef. “And of
course, [farmers] need all the help they can get. For years now, both
politically and economically, the deck is stacked against them.”
While some area chefs may serve lamb rack from New Zealand,
Australia or Colorado, he buys from Sam Roper of Sage and Sky Farm
through the Hub. “Sam and I have developed a great relationship,”
he said. “I also buy chickens from him. We have conversations about
their feed, exercise and many other factors. Before the slaughter of the
lambs, he invites me over to see the live animals as well. When you
have this type of a relationship, as a chef, you take great pride
in preparing your dishes.”

Stock
Stock
Stock
STOCK
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Stock chef and owner
Christopher Blanco. Lamb belly udon with spicy Asian greens,
a Skylight Farms soft egg and edible flours from the Hub; the
dish was part of a Stock pop-up series focused on lamb. A
duck ramen special made with local duck egg and Ralph's
Greenhouse curly green kale, both of which were purchased
through the Food Hub.
Christopher Blanco, chef and owner of Seattle’s Stock, says
that although he loves farmers markets, he’s found the Hub to
be a superior way “to get the best stuff at reasonable prices for
a time-strapped chef/business owner.” Among his favorite items:
the pasture-raised eggs from farms like Skylight and Caruso and
year-round access to Bow Hill's cold-pressed blueberry juice, ideal
for Stock’s wildly popular mimosas.
Blanco also commends the variety and quality of greens and lettuces
available in the late spring and early summer. He explained,
“Due to our restaurant's theme and aims, our customers expect
different aspects of their plate will change throughout the year.
… It's important for the sustainability of using small farms that
their products are recognized as superior to what big agriculture
offers, because when it comes down to it, we humans rarely make
decisions and value judgment based solely on morality. Variety
and quality are what will keep them coming back.”
Blanco’s favorite part about PSFH is the ease and simplicity of
it. “I also love the farm tours, both as a fascination and an affirmation
of the cycle of hard work that goes into producing a plate,” he
said. “Both sides of the equation—cooks and farmers—are working
hard to support one another. It's a simple, clear kind of symbiosis
that feels good to be a part of. “
Blanco sees a two-pronged argument for supporting local
farmers. “On the moral side of it,” he said, “it's a very tangible way
to reduce waste, excess and environmental impacts of producing
food. These farmers aren't trying to make an easy buck; they are
passionately pursuing a different kind of food system by taking an
active role. When I talk to them, I can tell they care very deeply
about the food they produce, and the way they produce it.”

Eat + Stay + Play
Guide
Oregon Guide
Garden Bar
$$, Vegetarian
MULTIPLE LOCATIONS
gardenbarpdx.com
Gloria’s Secret Café
$$, Latin American
Beaverton
8.1 MILES FROM STATION
503.268.2124
Garden Bar, Portland, Oregon
EUGENE
Belly Taquería
$$, Mexican
69 FEET FROM STATION
541.683.5896
eatbelly.com
The Bier Stein
$$, American, Pub
0.9 MILE FROM STATION
541.485.2437
thebierstein.com
Marché
$$, French
0.3 MILE FROM STATION
541.342.3612
marcherestaurant.com
OUR PICK
McMenamins High Street
Brewery & Café
$$, Brewpub
0.8 MILE FROM STATION
541.345.4905
mcmenamins.com
Oregon Electric Station
$$$, Steakhouse, Italian,
Seafood
374 FEET FROM STATION
541.485.4444
oesrestaurant.com
Sushi Pure
$$, Sushi
0.3 MILE FROM STATION
541.654.0608
sushipureeugene.com
Tacovore
$$, Mexican
0.8 MILE FROM STATION
541.735.3518
tacovorepnw.com
WildCraft Cider Works
$$, New American
0.4 MILE FROM STATION
541.735.3506
wildcraftciderworks.com
ALBANY
Calapooia Brewing
$$, Brewpub
1.4 MILES FROM STATION
541.928.1931
calapooiabrewing.com
Frankie’s Restaurant
$$, American, Steakhouse
1.3 MILES FROM STATION
541.248.3671
frankies-oregon.com
Sybaris Bistro
$$$, New American
0.8 MILE FROM STATION
541.928.8157
sybarisbistro.com
SALEM
ACME Cafe
$$, American
2.4 MILES FROM STATION
503.798.4736
acmecafe.net
Christos Pizzeria & Lounge
$$, Pizza
1.6 MILES FROM STATION
503.371.2892
christospizzasalem.com
Gamberetti’s Italian Restaurant
$$, Italian
0.7 MILE FROM STATION
503.399.7446
gamberettis.com
Wild Pear
$$, Cafe
1.5 MILES FROM STATION
503.378.7515
wildpearcatering.com
Willamette Valley
Vineyards
$$, Winery
Turner
9.2 MILES FROM STATION
503.588.9463
wvv.com
OREGON CITY
Adelsheim Vineyard
$$$, Winery
Newberg
29 MILES FROM STATION
503.538.3652
adelsheim.com
Cana’s Feast Winery
$$, Winery
Carlton
37.3 MILES FROM STATION
503.852.0002
canasfeastwinery.com
R. Stuart & Co. Wine Bar
$$, Wine
McMinnville
38.7 MILES FROM STATION
866.472.8614
rstuartandco.com
PORTLAND
Caffe Mingo
$$, Italian
1.1 MILES FROM STATION
503.226.4646
caffemingonw.com
Chennai Masala
$$, Indian
Hillsboro
12 MILES FROM STATION
503.531.9500
chennaimasala.net
Decarli
$$, Italian
Beaverton
8.6 MILES FROM STATION
503.641.3223
decarlirestaurant.com
Elephant’s Delicatessen
$$, Deli
MULTIPLE LOCATIONS
elephantsdeli.com
Imperial Restaurant
$$, American
0.6 MILE FROM STATION
503.228.7222
imperialpdx.com
Laurelhurst Market
$$$, Steakhouse
2.6 MILES FROM STATION
503.206.3097
laurelhurstmarket.com
OUR PICK
Le Bouchon
$$$, French
0.5 MILE FROM STATION
503.248.2193
bouchon-portland.com
Oven and Shaker
$$, Pizza, Italian
0.5 MILE FROM STATION
503.241.1600
ovenandshaker.com
The Palm Court
$$$, American
0.5 MILE FROM STATION
503.228.2000
bensonhotel.com
The Parish
$$, Seafood, Southern
0.5 MILE FROM STATION
503.227.2421
theparishpdx.com
Ruth’s Chris Steak House
$$$, Steakhouse
0.8 MILE FROM STATION
503.221.4518
ruthschris.com
Serratto Restaurant & Bar
$$, Italian, Mediterranean,
Modern European
1 MILE FROM STATION
503.221.1195
serratto.com
Syun Izakaya
$$, Japanese
Hillsboro
16.8 MILES FROM STATION
503.640.3131
syun-izakaya.com
ArborBrook Vineyards
$$, Winery
Newberg
29.4 MILES FROM STATION
503.538.0959
arborbrookwines.com
ontrakmag.com FALL 2017 | 57

Eat + Stay + Play
EUGENE
Best Western New
Oregon Motel
2 MILES FROM STATION
541.683.3669
book.bestwestern.com
C’est La Vie Inn
1.5 MILES FROM STATION
541.302.3014
cestlavieinn.com
Courtyard Eugene Springfield
4.6 MILES FROM STATION
541.726.2121
marriott.com
Excelsior Inn
1.2 MILES FROM STATION
541.342.6963
excelsiorinn.com
Hilton
0.2 MILES FROM STATION
541.342.2000
hilton.com
Holiday Inn Express
& Suites
3 MILES FROM STATION
541.342.1243
ihg.com
Oval Door Bed &
Breakfast Inn
0.7 MILES FROM STATION
541.683.3160
ovaldoor.com
Phoenix Inn Suites
1 MILE FROM STATION
541.344.0001
phoenixinn.com
SALEM
The Grand Hotel
0.8 MILE FROM STATION
503.540.7800
grandhotelsalem.com
Hampton Inn & Suites
2.4 MILES FROM STATION
503.362.1300
hamptoninn3.hilton.com
OUR PICK
Red Lion
2.6 MILES FROM STATION
503.370.7888
redlion.com
OREGON CITY
Best Western Plus
Rivershore Hotel
0.9 MILES FROM STATION
503.655.7141
book.bestwestern.com
Grand Hotel at Bridgeport
Tigard
11.7 MILES FROM STATION
503.968.5757
grandhotelbridgeport.com
Lakeshore Inn
Lake Oswego
6.2 MILES FROM STATION
503.636.9679
thelakeshoreinn.com
Jupiter Hotel, Portland, Oregon
PORTLAND
Ace Hotel
0.7 MILES FROM STATION
503.228.2277
acehotel.com
OUR PICK
The Benson, a Coast Hotel
0.5 MILE FROM STATION
503.228.2000
coasthotels.com
Caravan: The Tiny
House Hotel
2.3 MILES FROM STATION
503.288.5225
tinyhousehotel.com
Embassy Suites Portland -
Washington Square
Tigard
11.3 MILES FROM STATION
503.644.4400
portlandembassysuites.com
Friendly Bike Guest House
2.1 MILES FROM STATION
503.799.2615
friendlybikeguesthouse.com
Hotel Eastlund
1.5 MILES FROM STATION
503.235.2100
hoteleastlund.com
Hotel Modera
1.1 MILES FROM STATION
877.484.1084
hotelmodera.com
Inn @ Northrup Station
0.9 MILE FROM STATION
503.224.0543
northrupstation.com
Jupiter Hotel
1.4 MILES FROM STATION
503.230.9200
jupiterhotel.com
McMenamins Edgefield
Troutdale
13.6 MILES FROM STATION
503.669.8610
mcmenamins.com
McMenamins Grand Lodge
Forest Grove
25.4 MILES FROM STATION
503.992.9533
mcmenamins.com
The Nines
0.7 MILE FROM STATION
877.229.9995
thenines.com
Resort at the Mountain
Mt. Hood Village
45.2 MILES FROM STATION
503.622.3101
theresort.com
River’s Edge Hotel & Spa
4.3 MILES FROM STATION
503.802.5800
riversedgehotel.com
Shift Vacation Rentals
3.3 MILES FROM STATION
503.208.2581
shiftvacationrentals.com
Tierra Soul Urban Farm &
Guesthouse
2.3 MILES FROM STATION
503.489.7645
tierrasoulpdx.com
Timberline Lodge
Timberline
62.5 MILES FROM STATION
800.547.1406
timberlinelodge.com
The Westin
0.7 MILE FROM STATION
503.294.9000
westinportland.com
Valley River Inn
3 MILES FROM STATION
541.743.1000
valleyriverinn.com
ALBANY
Best Western Plus
Prairie Inn
2.5 MILES FROM STATION
541.928.5050
book.bestwestern.com
Comfort Suites
2.7 MILES FROM STATION
541.928.2053
comfortsuites.com
Phoenix Inn Suites
2.3 MILES FROM STATION
541.926.5696
phoenixinn.com
58 | FALL 2017
ontrakmag.com

Eat + Stay + Play
Guide
EUGENE
Bijou Metro
0.4 MILE FROM STATION
541.686.3229
bijou-cinemas.com
Cascades Raptor Center
5.7 MILES FROM STATION
541.485.1320
eraptors.org
Heritage Dry Goods
0.3 MILE FROM STATION
541.393.6710
heritagedrygoods.com
Hult Center for the
Performing Arts
0.2 MILE FROM STATION
541.682.5087
hultcenter.org
Museum of Natural &
Cultural History
1.7 MILES FROM STATION
541.346.3024
natural-history.uoregon.edu
Oakway Center
1.3 MILES FROM STATION
541.485.4711
oakwaycenter.com
ALBANY
Albany Antique Mall
0.5 MILE FROM STATION
541.704.0109
albanyantiquemall.com
Gallery Calapooia
0.6 MILE FROM STATION
503.971.5701
gallerycalapooia.com
Oregon Coast Aquarium
Newport
65 MILES FROM STATION
541.867.3474
aquarium.org
SALEM
OUR PICK
Evergreen Aviation
& Space Museum
+ Waterpark
McMinnville
24.3 MILES FROM
STATION
503.434.4185
evergreenmuseum.org
Historic Elsinore Theatre
0.8 MILE FROM STATION
503.375.3574
elsinoretheatre.com
Salem Center
1.1 MILES FROM STATION
503.399.9676
salemcenter.com
OREGON CITY
Bridgeport Village
Tigard
11.6 MILES FROM STATION
503.968.1704
bridgeport-village.com
Oregon Coast Aquarium, Newport, Oregon
Clackamas Repertory
Theater
3.8 MILES FROM STATION
503.594.6047
clackamasrep.org
End of the Oregon Trail
1.2 MILES FROM STATION
503.657.9336
historicoregoncity.org
PORTLAND
Arlene Schnitzer
Concert Hall
0.9 MILE FROM STATION
503.248.4335
portland5.com
Bella Casa
0.5 MILE FROM STATION
503.222.5337
bellacasa.net
Bonnet
0.5 MILE FROM STATION
503.954.2271
shop.bonnetboutique.com
Boys Fort
0.8 MILE FROM STATION
503.567.1015
boysfort.com
Ellington Handbags
1.4 MILES FROM STATION
503.542.3149
ellingtonhandbags.com
Garnish Apparel
0.5 MILE FROM STATION
503.954.2292
garnishapparel.com
McMenamins
Crystal Ballroom
0.8 MILE FROM STATION
503.225.0047
mcmenamins.com
Mt. Hood Meadows
Ski Resort
Mt. Hood
75 MILES FROM STATION
503.337.2222
skihood.com
Oregon Museum of
Science and Industry
1.9 MILES FROM STATION
503.797.4000
omsi.edu
Oregon Zoo
3.4 MILES FROM STATION
503.226.1561
oregonzoo.org
Physical Element
0.5 MILE FROM STATION
503.224.5425
physicalelement.com
Pittock Mansion
2.8 MILES FROM STATION
503.823.3623
pittockmansion.org
Jon Christopher Meyers
Cascades Raptor Center, Eugene, Oregon
OUR PICK
Portland Art Museum
1 MILE FROM STATION
503.226.2811
portlandartmuseum.org
Rachelle M. Rustic House
of Fashion
0.7 MILE FROM STATION
971.319.6934
rachellem.com
Rice Northwest Museum
of Rocks & Minerals
Hillsboro
17.1 MILES FROM STATION
503.647.2418
ricenorthwestmuseum.org
Twist
1.4 MILES FROM STATION
503.224.0334
twistonline.com
US Outdoor Store
0.7 MILE FROM STATION
503.223.5937
usoutdoor.com
ontrakmag.com Call Statehood Media to get listed in our guides. 541.728.2764
FALL 2017 | 59

Eat + Stay + Play
Washington Guide
TanakaSan
$$, Asian Fusion
1.8 MILES FROM STATION
206.812.8412
tanakasanseattle.com
Westward
$$, Mediterranean,
Breakfast, American
5.8 MILES FROM STATION
206.552.8215
westwardseattle.com
EDMONDS
Rivertop Bar & Grill
$$, American
Wenatchee
133 MILES FROM STATION
509.662.1234
rivertopbargrill.com
The Maltby Café
$$, American, Breakfast,
Coffee
Snohomish
14.5 MILES FROM STATION
425.483.3123
maltbycafe.com
Pacific Grill, Tacoma, Washington
EVERETT
OUR PICK
KELSO/LONGVIEW
The Office 842
$$, Coffee, Cocktails, Tapas
1.1 MILES FROM STATION
360.442.4647
theoffice842.com
CENTRALIA
McMenamins Olympic
Club Pub
$$, Brewpub
0.1 MILE FROM STATION
360.736.5164
mcmenamins.com
OLYMPIA/LACEY
Dillinger’s Cocktails
& Kitchen
$$, Cocktails, American
8.4 MILES FROM STATION
360.515.0650
dillingerscocktailsandkitchen.
com
Fish Tale Brew Pub
$$, Brewpub
7.8 MILES FROM STATION
360.943.3650
fishbrewing.com
60 | FALL 2017
OUR PICK
Iron Rabbit Restaurant
& Bar
$$, American
9.5 MILES FROM STATION
360.956.3661
ironrabbit.net
The Mark
$$, Italian
8.1 MILES FROM STATION
360.754.4414
themarkolympia.com
Three Magnets Brewing
$$, BREWPUB, AMERICAN
8 MILES FROM STATION
360.972.2481
threemagnetsbrewing.com
TACOMA
Asado
$$$, Argentine
4.8 MILES FROM STATION
253.272.7770
asadotacoma.com
Odd Otter Brewery
$, Brewery
2.7 MILES FROM STATION
253.327.1680
oddotterbrewing.com
Pacific Grill
$$, American, Seafood
1.4 MILES FROM STATION
253.627.3535
pacificgrilltacoma.com
TUKWILA
Miyabi Sushi
$$, Japanese
1.4 MILES FROM STATION
206.575.6815
miyabisushi.com
SEATTLE
Assaggio Ristorante
$$$, Italian
1.3 MILES FROM STATION
206.441.1399
assaggioseattle.com
Eastside Bar & Grill
$$, American
Bellevue
11.6 MILES FROM STATION
425.455.9444
coasthotels.com
Frolik Kitchen & Cocktails
$$, American, Breakfast
1.1 MILES FROM STATION
206.971.8015
frolik.motifseattle.com
John Howie Steak
$$$$, American, Steakhouse
Bellevue
10 MILES FROM STATION
425.440.0880
johnhowiesteak.com
Little Water Cantina
$$, Mexican
4 MILES FROM STATION
206.397.4940
littlewatercantina.com
Loulay Kitchen & Bar
$$, French, Breakfast
1.1 MILES FROM STATION
206.402.4588
thechefinthehat.com
Pine Box
$$, Brewpub
1.7 MILES FROM STATION
206.588.0375
pineboxbar.com
Revel
$$, Asian Fusion, Korean
5.9 MILES FROM STATION
206.547.2040
revelseattle.com
Seastar Restaurant
& Raw Bar
$$$, American, Seafood
Bellevue
10.7 MILES FROM STATION
425.456.0010
seastarrestaurant.com
Sharps Roasthouse
$$, American, BBQ
SeaTac
13.1 MILES FROM STATION
206.241.5744
sharpsroasthouse.com
Anthony’s HomePort
$$, Seafood
1726 W. Marine View Drive
2.4 MILES FROM STATION
425.252.3333
anthonys.com
STANWOOD
Stanwood Grill
$$, American
289 FEET FROM STATION
360.629.5253
stanwoodgrill.com
MOUNT VERNON
Skagit River Brewery
$$, Brewpub
0.2 MILE FROM STATION
360.336.2884
skagitbrew.com
BELLINGHAM
Leaf & Ladle
$$, Soup, Sandwiches
3.1 MILES FROM STATION
360.319.9718
facebook.com/leafandladle
ontrakmag.com

Eat + Stay + Play
Guide
KELSO/LONGVIEW
Monticello Hotel
2.1 MILES FROM STATION
360.425.9900
themonticello.net
CENTRALIA
Centralia Square Hotel
0.3 MILE FROM STATION
360.807.1212
centraliasquare.com
McMenamins - Olympic
Club Hotel & Theater
0.1 MILE FROM STATION
360.736.5164
mcmenamins.com
OLYMPIA/LACEY
OUR PICK
Doubletree by Hilton
8.4 MILES FROM STATION
360.570.0555
doubletree3.hilton.com
The Governor, a Coast
Hotel
7.9 MILES FROM STATION
360.352.7700
coasthotels.com
Little Creek Casino Resort
20.6 MILES FROM
STATION
800.667.7711
little-creek.com
Red Lion Hotel
8 MILES FROM STATION
360.943.4000
redlion.com
Swantown Inn & Spa
7.6 MILES FROM STATION
360.753.9123
swantowninn.com
TACOMA
Hotel Murano
1.5 MILES FROM STATION
253.238.8000
hotelmuranotacoma.com
Silver Cloud Inn - Tacoma
Waterfront
3.9 MILES FROM STATION
253.272.1300
silvercloud.com
TUKWILA
Cedarbrook Lodge
SeaTac
4.3 MILES FROM STATION
206.901.9268
cedarbrooklodge.com
Springhill Suites
Renton
1.8 MILES FROM STATION
425.226.4100
marriott.com
SEATTLE
Alexis Hotel
0.8 MILE FROM STATION
206.624.4844
alexishotel.com
Belltown Inn
1.5 MILES FROM STATION
206.529.3700
belltown-inn.com
Coast Bellevue Hotel
Bellevue
11.6 MILES FROM STATION
425.455.9444
coasthotels.com
Coast Gateway Hotel
SeaTac
13.8 MILES FROM STATION
206.248.8200
coasthotels.com
Greenlake Guest House
7.1 MILES FROM STATION
206.729.8700
greenlakeguesthouse.com
Hotel 1000
0.7 MILE FROM STATION
206.957.1000
hotel1000seattle.com
Hotel Monaco
0.8 MILE FROM STATION
206.621.1770
monaco-seattle.com
Grand Hyatt
Seattle
1.5 MILES FROM STATION
206.774.1234
seattle.grand.hyatt.com
Inn at the Market
1.2 MILES FROM STATION
206.448.0631
innatthemarket.com
The Maxwell Hotel
2.5 MILES FROM STATION
206.286.0629
themaxwellhotel.com
The Moore Hotel
1.3 MILES FROM STATION
206.448.4851
moorehotel.com
The Paramount Hotel
1.3 MILES FROM STATION
206.292.9500
paramounthotelseattle.com
Seattle Sheraton
1.2 MILES FROM STATION
206.621.9000
sheratonseattle.com
Sorrento Hotel
1.1 MILES FROM STATION
206.622.6400
hotelsorrento.com
EDMONDS
Best Western Plus
Edmonds Harbor Inn
0.2 MILE FROM STATION
425.771.5021
book.bestwestern.com
Coast Wenatchee
Center Hotel
Wenatchee
133 MILES FROM STATION
509.662.1234
coasthotels.com
EVERETT
Holiday Inn Downtown
Everett
0.4 MILE FROM STATION
425.339.2000
ihg.com
OUR PICK
Inn at Port Gardner
2.4 MILES FROM STATION
425.252.6779
innatportgardner.com
STANWOOD
Cedar Bluff Cottage
5.2 MILES FROM STATION
360.445.3333
cedarbluffcottage.com
Hotel Stanwood
1.4 MILES FROM STATION
360.629.2888
stanwoodhotelsaloon.com
MOUNT VERNON
Best Western Plus Skagit
Valley Inn
1.9 MILES FROM STATION
360.428.5678
book.bestwestern.com
Tulip Inn
1.8 MILES FROM STATION
800.599.5696
tulipinn.net
BELLINGHAM
The Chrysalis Inn & Spa
0.8 MILE FROM STATION
360.756.1005
thechrysalisinn.com
Fairhaven Village Inn
0.3 MILE FROM STATION
360.733.1311
fairhavenvillageinn.com
Hotel Bellwether
4 MILES FROM STATION
360.392.3100
hotelbellwether.com
Greenlake Guest House, Seattle, Washington
ontrakmag.com Call Statehood Media to get listed in our guides. 541.728.2764
FALL 2017 | 61

Eat + Stay + Play
VANCOUVER
Kiggins Theatre
0.8 MILE FROM STATION
360.816.0352
kigginstheatre.net
KELSO/LONGVIEW
Cowlitz County Tourism -
Visit Mount St. Helens
360.577.3137
visitmtsthelens.com
Kelso Theater Pub
0.1 MILE FROM STATION
360.414.9451
ktpub.com
CENTRALIA
Centralia Factory Outlets
2.8 MILES FROM STATION
360.736.3327
centraliafactoryoutlet.com
Centralia Fox Theatre
0.2 MILE FROM STATION
360.623.1103
centraliafoxtheatre.com
OLYMPIA/LACEY
222 Market
8.3 MILES FROM STATION
222market.com
Capitol Tours
7.5 MILES FROM STATION
360.902.8880
des.wa.gov
OUR PICK
Hands on Children’s
Museum
8.4 MILES FROM STATION
360.956-0818
hocm.org
Little Creek Casino Resort
Shelton
20.6 MILES FROM
STATION
800.667.7711
little-creek.com
Mima Mounds
17.6 MILES FROM STATION
dnr.wa.gov/MimaMounds
Rhythm & Rye
7.8 MILES FROM STATION
360.705.0760
facebook.com/rhythmandrye
Tumwater Falls Park
6.7 MILES FROM STATION
olytumfoundation.org/whatwe-do/tumwater-falls-park
TACOMA
LeMay—America’s Car
Museum
0.7 MILE FROM STATION
253.779.8490
americascarmuseum.org
Museum of Glass
0.9 MILE FROM STATION
253.284.4750
museumofglass.org
Point Defiance Zoo &
Aquarium
7.4 MILES FROM STATION
253.591.5337
pdza.org
Tacoma Art Museum
1.2 MILES FROM STATION
253.272.4258
tacomaartmuseum.org
Washington State History
Museum
1.8 MILES FROM STATION
253.272.3500
washingtonhistory.org
TUKWILA
Museum of Flight
5.7 MILES FROM STATION
206.764.5720
museumofflight.org
SEATTLE
Bellevue Arts Museum
Bellevue
10.7 MILES FROM
STATION
425.519.0770
bellevuearts.org
Experience Music Project
Museum
2 MILES FROM STATION
206.770.2700
empmuseum.org
Museum of History and
Industry
2.7 MILES FROM STATION
206.324.1126
mohai.org
Neptune Theatre
4.2 MILES FROM STATION
206.682.1414
stgpresents.org
Northwest Outdoor Center
3.7 MILES FROM STATION
206.281.9694
nwoc.com
Olympic Sculpture Park
2 MILES FROM STATION
206.654.3100
seattleartmuseum.org
OUR PICK
Pike Place Market
1.4 MILES FROM STATION
pikeplacemarket.org
Seattle Aquarium
1 MILE FROM STATION
206.386.4300
seattleaquarium.org
Seattle Art Museum
0.8 MILE FROM STATION
206.654.3100
seattleartmuseum.org
Woodland Park Zoo
5.3 MILES FROM STATION
206.548.2500
zoo.org
EDMONDS
Cascadia Art Museum
0.3 MILE FROM STATION
425.336.4809
cascadiaartmuseum.org
Edmonds Center
for the Arts
0.6 MILE FROM STATION
425.275.4485
edmondscenterforthearts.com
Visit Edmonds
0.5 MILE FROM STATION
1.877.775.6935
visitedmonds.com
EVERETT
Future of Flight Aviation
Center & Boeing Tour
Mukilteo
8 MILES FROM STATION
1.800.464.1476
futureofflight.org
XFINITY Arena at Everett
0.5 MILE FROM STATION
425.322.2600
xfinityarenaeverett.com
STANWOOD
Stanwood Cinemas
1.5 MILES FROM STATION
360.629.0514
farawayentertainment.com
MOUNT VERNON
Downtown Mount Vernon
360.336.3801
mountvernondowntown.org
Lincoln Theater
0.3 MILES FROM STATION
360.336.8955
lincolntheatre.org
Kiggins Theatre, Vancouver, Washington
BELLINGHAM
Bellingham Railway
Museum
3.1 MILES FROM STATION
360.393.7540
bellinghamrailway
museum.org
The Green Frog
2.8 MILES FROM STATION
888.968.8783
acoustictavern.com
Mount Baker Theatre
3.2 MILES FROM STATION
360.734.6080
mountbakertheatre.com
62 | FALL 2017
ontrakmag.com

Eat + Stay + Play
Guide
Vancouver Guide
L’Abattoir
$$$, French, Canadian
1.4 KM FROM STATION
604.568.1701
labattoir.ca
Savary Island Pie Company
$$, Bakery, Coffee
10.6 KM FROM STATION
604.926.4021
savaryislandpiecompany.com
Lighthouse Pub
$$, Gastropub
70.1 KM FROM STATION
604.885.9494
lighthousepub.ca
Marutama Ramen
$$, Asian
3.6 KM FROM STATION
604.688.8837
marutamaramen.com
Su Hang Restaurant
$$, Chinese
18.2 KM FROM STATION
604.278.7787
suhang.ca
Wildebeest
$$$, Gastropub, Canadian
1.5 KM FROM STATION
604.687.6880
wildebeest.ca
OUR PICK
Molly’s Reach
$$, American, Seafood
47 KM FROM STATION
604.886.9710
mollysreach.ca
Xi’An Cuisine
$, Chinese, Fast Food,
Asian Fusion
18 KM FROM STATION
604.279.9727
Bao Bei Chinese Brasserie, Vancouver, BC
4 Stones Vegetarian Cuisine
$$, Taiwanese, Vegetarian,
Chinese
15.6 KM FROM STATION
604.278.0852
fourstonesvegetarian.com
Ask for Luigi
$$, Italian
1.4 KM FROM STATION
604.428.2544
askforluigi.com
Bao Bei Chinese Brasserie
$$$, Chinese
850 METERS FROM
STATION
604.688.0876
bao-bei.ca
Bluewater Café
$$, Seafood
2.3 KM FROM STATION
604.688.8078
bluewatercafe.net
Boulevard Kitchen
& Oyster Bar
$$$, Seafood, Steakhouse
2.6 KM FROM STATION
604.642.2900
boulevardvancouver.ca
Café at John Henry’s
$$, American
115 KM FROM STATION
604.883.2336
johnhenrysresortmarina.com
Chambar
$$$, Belgian, Breakfast
1.4 KM FROM STATION
604.879.7119
chambar.com
Cioppino’s Mediterranean
Grill & Enoteca
$$$$, Mediterranean, Italian
2.3 KM FROM STATION
604.688.7466
cioppinosyaletown.com
Cuchillo
$$, Latin American
1.2 KM FROM STATION
604.559.7585
cuchillo.ca
The Diamond
$$, Mexican
1.5 KM FROM STATION
604.568.8272
di6mond.com
Fable Kitchen
$$, Canadian
4.4 KM FROM STATION
604.732.1322
fablekitchen.ca
The Fat Badger
$$, British
3.4 KM FROM STATION
604.336.5577
fatbadger.ca
The Flying Pig
$$, Canadian
Multiple Locations
theflyingpigvan.com
OUR PICK
Forty Ninth Parallel Café &
Lucky’s Doughnuts
$, Coffee, Donuts
1.8 KM FROM STATION
604.872.4901
49thparallelroasters.com
luckysdoughnuts.com
Jade Restaurant
$$, SEAFOOD, DIM SUM
16 KM FROM STATION
604.249.0082
jaderestaurant.ca
Jules
$$, French
1.7 KM FROM STATION
604.669.0033
julesbistro.ca
The Keefer Bar
$$$, Cocktails, Asian Small
Plates
850 METERS FROM
STATION
604.688.1961
thekeeferbar.com
Kintaro Ramen
$, Asian
3.8 KM FROM STATION
604.682.7568
Kirin
$$, Seafood, Dim Sum
Multiple locations
kirinrestaurants.com
Novo Pizzeria & Wine Bar
$$, Italian, Wine
4 KM FROM STATION
604.736.2220
novopizzeria.com
The Oakwood Canadian
Bistro
$$, Gastropub, Canadian
5.6 KM FROM STATION
604.558.1965
theoakwood.ca
Octopus’ Garden
$$$, Japanese, Sushi
4.5 KM FROM STATION
604.734.8971
octopusgardensada.com
Opus Bar
$$, Cocktails, Small Plates,
Breakfast
2.2 KM FROM STATION
604.642.2107
opushotel.com
R&H Chinese Food
$, Chinese
16.7 KM FROM STATION
778.297.5668
Salt Tasting Room
$$, Wine, Tapas, Small Plates
1.5 KM FROM STATION
604.633.1912
salttastingroom.com
Sal y Limon
$, Mexican
2.4 KM FROM STATION
604.677.4247
salylimon.ca
Samsoonie Noodle & Rice
$$, Korean, Ramen
15 KM FROM STATION
778.297.7798
Yaletown Brewing Co.
$$, Brewpub
2.1 KM FROM STATION
604.681.2739
mjg.ca
ontrakmag.com Call Statehood Media to get listed in our guides. 541.728.2764
FALL 2017 | 63

Eat + Stay + Play
Auberge Vancouver Hotel
2.6 KM FROM STATION
604.678.8899
aubergevancouver.com
English Bay Inn
5 KM FROM STATION
604.683.8002
englishbayinn.com
Summit Lodge & Spa, Whistler, BC
Barclay House
3.5 KM FROM STATION
604.605.1351
barclayhouse.com
Executive Hotel LeSoleil
2.2 KM FROM STATION
604.632.3000
hotellesoleil.com
Bee & Thistle Guest House
3.3 KM FROM STATION
604.669.0715
beeandthistle.ca
The Burrard
2.9 KM FROM STATION
604.681.2331
theburrard.com
Coast Coal Harbour Hotel
2.7 KM FROM STATION
604.697.0202
coasthotels.com
Coast Plaza Hotel & Suites
4.2 KM FROM STATION
604.688.7711
coasthotels.com
Coast Vancouver
Airport Hotel
9.3 KM FROM STATION
604.263.1555
coasthotels.com
Executive Hotel
Vintage Park
2.9 KM FROM STATION
1.800.570.3932
executivehotels.net
Fairmont Chateau
Whistler
124 KM FROM STATION
604.938.8000
fairmont.com
Four Points by Sheraton
Vancouver Airport
16.2 KM FROM STATION
604.214.0888
fourpointsvancouverairport.com
Georgian Court Hotel
1.5 KM FROM STATION
604.682.5555
georgiancourthotel
vancouver.com
Yaletown Brewing Co., Vancouver, BC
Rob Gilbert Photography
OUR PICK
Granville House B&B
6.3 KM FROM STATION
604.739.9002
granvillebb.com
Granville Island Hotel
4.4 KM FROM STATION
604.683.7373
granvilleislandhotel.com
Hotel at the Waldorf
3.1 KM FROM STATION
604.253.7141
hotelatthewaldorf.ca
Hotel Blue Horizon
2.9 KM FROM STATION
604.688.1411
bluehorizonhotel.com
The Kingston Hotel
2.1 KM FROM STATION
604.684.9024
kingstonhotelvancouver.com
The Landis Hotel & Suites
3 KM FROM STATION
604.681.3555
landissuitesvancouver.com
L’Hermitage Hotel
2 KM FROM STATION
778.327.4100
lhermitagevancouver.com
The Listel Hotel
3.1 KM FROM STATION
604.684.7092
thelistelhotel.com
Loden Hotel
3.4 KM FROM STATION
877.225.6336
theloden.com
Moon Dance Vacation
Rentals
107 KM FROM STATION
604.841.5805
moondance.travel
OPUS Vancouver
2.2 KM FROM STATION
604.642.6787
opushotel.com
The Painted Boat Resort
Spa & Marina
101 KM FROM STATION
604.883.2456
paintedboat.com
Patricia Hotel
1.2 KM FROM STATION
604.255.4301
patriciahotel.ca
Pinnacle Hotel Vanoucver
Harbourfront
3.1 KM FROM STATION
604.689.9211
pinnacleharbourfronthotel.com
The Riviera on Robson
Suites Hotel
3.2 KM FROM STATION
604.685.1301
rivieravancouver.com
Rosewood Hotel Georgia
2.1 KM FROM STATION
604.682.5566
rosewoodhotels.com
St. Clair Hotel - Hostel
1.8 KM FROM STATION
604.648.3713
stclairvancouver.com
Summit Lodge
& Spa Whistler
Whistler
132 KM FROM STATION
604.932.2778
summitlodge.com
The Sylvia Hotel
4.3 KM FROM STATION
604.681.9321
sylviahotel.com
Victorian Hotel
1.7 KM FROM STATION
604.681.6369
victorianhotel.ca
Wedgewood Hotel & Spa
2.4 KM FROM STATION
604.689.7777
wedgewoodhotel.com
OUR PICK
Westin Wall Centre,
Vancouver Airport
14.5 KM FROM AIRPORT
604.303.6565
westinvancouverairport.com
64 | FALL 2017
ontrakmag.com

Eat + Stay + Play
Guide
Science World at TELUS World of Science, Vancouver, BC
Bau-Xi Gallery
Contemporary Fine Art
4.3 KM FROM STATION
604.733.7011
bau-xi.com
Beaty Biodiversity Museum
14.2 KM FROM STATION
604.827.4955
beatymuseum.ubc.ca
Bloedel Floral Conservatory
5.9 KM FROM STATION
604.257.8584
vancouver.ca
Capilano Suspension
Bridge Park
10.7 KM FROM STATION
604.985.7474
capbridge.com
Craigdarroch Castle
Victoria
115 KM FROM STATION
250.592.5323
thecastle.ca
Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical
Chinese Garden
1.2 KM FROM STATION
604.662.3207
vancouverchinesegarden.com
OUR PICK
Granville Island
4.1 KM FROM STATION
604.666.6655
granvilleisland.com
Greater Vancouver Zoo
53.3 KM FROM STATION
604.856.6825
gvzoo.com
Grotto Spa at Tigh-Na-Mara
Parksville
111 KM FROM STATION
250.248.1838
grottospa.com
H.R. MacMillan Space
Centre
4.9 KM FROM STATION
604.738.7827
spacecentre.ca
Museum of Vancouver
4.8 KM FROM STATION
604.736.4431
museumofvancouver.ca
OUR PICK
Olympic Experience
at the Richmond
Olympic Oval
14 KM FROM STATION
778.296.1400
richmondoval.ca/therox
The Orpheum
2.8 KM FROM STATION
604.665.3050
vancouver.ca
Peak 2 Peak Gondola
Whistler
124 KM FROM STATION
1.888.403.4727
whistlerblackcomb.com
Pirate Adventures
4.1 KM FROM STATION
604.754.7535
pirateadventures.ca
Queen Elizabeth Theatre
1.6 KM FROM STATION
604.665.3050
vancouver.ca
Richmond Night Market
12.7 KM FROM STATION
604.244.8448
richmondnightmarket.com
River Rock Casino Resort
Richmond
12.2 KM FROM STATION
877.473.8900
riverrock.com
Robson Street
2.8 KM FROM STATION
604.669.8132
robsonstreet.ca
Rockwood Adventures
7.4 KM FROM STATION
604.913.1621
rockwoodadventures.com
Rogers Arena
2 KM FROM STATION
604.899.7400
rogersarena.com
Science World at TELUS
World of Science
400 METERS FROM
STATION
604.443.7440
scienceworld.ca
Skookumchuck Narrows
Provincial Park
129 KM FROM STATION
604.885.3714
env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks
Vancouver Art Gallery
2.3 KM FROM STATION
604.662.4700
vanartgallery.bc.ca
Vancouver Aquarium
6.3 KM FROM STATION
604.659.3474
vanaqua.org
Vancouver Maritime
Museum
4.8 KM FROM STATION
604.257.8300
vancouvermaritime
museum.com
Whistler Blackcomb
Whistler
124 KM FROM STATION
1.800.766.0449
whistlerblackcomb.com
ontrakmag.com Call Statehood Media to get listed in our guides. 541.728.2764
FALL 2017 | 65

EXP
SURE
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HOTEL COLLECTION
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to Bellingham
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Louie Gong
and Eighth
Generation
page 14
Spend a weekend
in Olympia
page 38
Bollywood
Theater
page 20

SEATTLE
TACOMA
OLYMPIA
ontrakmag.com FALL 2017 | 69

PORTLAND
SALEM
EUGENE
70 | FALL 2017
ontrakmag.com

Bring your bike on the train
We know how much you love bicycling—it’s just part of the Pacific Northwest
culture. That’s why we’ve made it easy for you to take your bike along on your next
trip aboard Amtrak Cascades. Travel in Oregon, Washington and British Columbia is
made all the more enjoyable when you combine trains and bikes for the ultimate in
eco-friendly transportation.
1. MAKE A RESERVATION FOR YOU AND YOUR BIKE
You’ll need to book space for both you and your bike by going online to:
AmtrakCascades.com, visiting a staffed station, or calling 1-800-USA-RAIL.
2. RACK YOUR BIKE
Ten bike racks are available on every Amtrak Cascades train. Bike racks, located in
the baggage car, must be reserved for a cost of $5 each. Book early to ensure bike
space is available and you get the best fare for your own ticket. This is particularly
important during busy summer months when trains fill up quickly.
3. BOX YOUR BIKE
If you don’t make advance reservations, you may find the bike rack space is all
sold out. If that’s the case, you can opt to box your bike (except at unstaffed
stations)* for an additional $15/box plus a $10 handling fee. You’re responsible for
disassembling and reassembling your bike. Remember to bring your tools along.
*Unstaffed stations: Kelso/Longview, Mt. Vernon, Olympia/Lacey, Oregon City,
Stanwood and Tukwila
Looking for a great
place to ride?
All of the Amtrak Cascades
eighteen station stops offer
nearby bike routes that
allow you to explore the
area. Many follow old rail
corridors, so you can further
intertwine your train and bike
adventures. Check out more
bike trips along the corridor at
amtrakcascades.com.
Vancouver, BC
The Stanley Park Seawall is
one of the best rides you’ll find
in Vancouver proper.
Seattle
The Emerald City is a great
starting point for bike
adventures such as the 19-
mile Burke-Gilman Trail, which
dissects the city’s diverse
neighborhoods.
Tacoma
The Ruston waterfront and
Point Defiance Park offer a
wonderful place to spend an
afternoon of bicycling.
Portland
One of the nation’s top bike
cities, Portland is the gateway
to several scenic bike trips,
including the Tualatin Valley
trail that offers a 50-mile
route through the northern
Willamette Valley.
Albany
Tackle all or part of the
gorgeous 132-mile Willamette
Valley Scenic Bikeway that
meanders through vineyards,
hop farms and quaint towns.

Parting Shot
PACIFIC CENTRAL TRAIN STATION
VANCOUVER, B.C.
A shot of the bustling Pacific Central Station in Vancouver.
PHOTO BY KEVIN LIGHT
72 | FALL 2017
ontrakmag.com