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Notes from the Adventure TRAVELER’S GUIDE TO FUN HIKING the High Desert The Oregon Desert Trail is challenging, cross-country trekking
The view in the Leslie Gulch tuff. FOR MILES, THE ONLY sound we heard was the swish of wild grasses in the breeze, nostrils filled with menthol-sweet sage brush, perfect blue cloudless sky above, and its reflection in the water below—way below. Looking out across the Owyhee River canyon to the towering red rock walls on its opposite shore, we could have been anywhere in the Southwest. Instead, my husband, Jason, and I were in a remote corner of southeastern Oregon, spending a weekend hiking a 27-mile loop on the Oregon Desert Trail. We began near its eastern terminus at Leslie Gulch, about 50 miles from the Idaho border. Deciding to hike in spring, when the reservoir’s water level is at its highest, means following the canyon’s rim, mountain-goating along its rocky edges. In the fall, when the water levels are at their lowest, the trail is much different (and the route I’d recommend). You can hug the shoreline and wade or even raft down the river. That is both the beauty and challenge of the Oregon Desert Trail—that little red line on the map is more a suggestion. The ODT is a mix of pre-existing trails, old roads, ATV paths, cow paths and cross-country routes strung through Eastern Oregon’s high desert. Only about fifteen people have hiked the entire 750 miles. Beginning near Bend, the W-shaped route winds along landscape ranging from endangered shrub steppe to the alpine forests of 9,000-foot Steens Mountain, past hot springs and pictographs, through canyonlands and cow pastures. It is the first long distance trail created and run by a conservation organization, according to Renee Patrick, Oregon Desert Trail coordinator for the Oregon Natural Desert Association, a nonprofit that works to protect and restore the state’s high desert. Patrick, who has logged more than 10,000 miles on nine different long trails, including the ODT, warns that the terrain is not for everyone. Most of the trail requires hikers to be comfortable with navigation, since there are no signs and some cross-country traversing.
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