ontrak_autumn_2017_new

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EAT Samsoonie Noodle & Rice 140 – 8211 Westminster Highway Xi’An Cuisine Richmond Public Market, second floor 2370 – 8260 Westminster Highway Su Hang Restaurant suhang.ca Jade Restaurant jaderestaurant.ca 4 Stones Vegetarian Cuisine fourstonesvegetarian.com R&H Chinese Food Lansdowne Food Court 5300 No. 3 Road STAY Westin Wall Centre, Vancouver Airport westinvancouverairport.com Four Points by Sheraton Vancouver Airport fourpointsvancouverairport.com PLAY Richmond Night Market richmondnightmarket.com Olympic Experience at the Richmond Olympic Oval Richmondoval.ca/therox My theory held up during lunch at Samsoonie Noodles and Rice, a Korean restaurant where the top dumpling is the Mandu, a football-shaped pastry filled with minced meat. Served with kimchi, it got my day off to a spicy start. The guo tie (potstickers) at Xi’an Cuisine in the Richmond Public Market’s food court were top notch, the spicy wonton made my tastebuds dance and the crispy beef roll was a pleasant culinary side trip away from dumplings. The stop also taught me that food courts aren’t necessarily a bad thing—and reminded me to pace myself. When I left I was so full I had to wander the aisles of a local supermarket just to work it off so I could eat again. I headed to upscale, Shanghaiese-style family restaurant Su Hang for water boiled dumplings (shui jiao) as well as steamed vegetable dumplings and was treated to a window view of the dumpling making. I also ordered the yellow fish because it was my last meal of the day. I started the next morning off with a group of journalists doing dim sum at Jade Restaurant. Since I’m kosher, I skipped the shrimp and pork and enjoyed the scallion dumplings. Don’t cry for me, though. It gave me more room at my favorite stop of the day, Taiwanese 4 Stones Vegetarian Restaurant, where everything tasted meaty but wasn’t, including the gyoza, the ma po tofu and General Tso’s chicken. Yes, I know, those aren’t all dumpling dishes, but when it’s this good, I’ll make an exception. I finished my brief tour by enjoying the most unusual dumpling of the trip, xiao long bao, at R&H Chinese Food in the Lansdowne Mall Food Court. Eating it properly required a deft hand—you have to hold it between chopsticks, bite into it and suck out the soup before it leaks. I won’t comment on how successful I was, but I did have to change shirts after the meal was done. 36 | FALL 2017 ontrakmag.com
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT The chef and hostess are seen in the kitchen through a window at Su Hang. A chef holds a freshly rolled steamed soup bun at Su Hang. Xiao long bao dumplings are lifted from steam at R&H Chinese Food in the Lansdowne Mall Food Court. ontrakmag.com FALL 2017 | 37
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