Climber September/October 2017

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Wil Treasure on the moves back right on Sardine (F7b+), Raven Tor. Photo: David Simmonite The six weeks after my final exam had changed that and I was ready for a serious attempt. Pulling onto the initial polished and dusty holds sets my heart racing, normally this is just nervousness, being in front of a crowd of far stronger climbers, but today it is fear of failure. Of failing on a goal that I now know is within my grasp. But there is also a bubble of excitement battering for release from my chest. This is a milestone. The absent daydream I never thought would actually be achieved. I slide my way into the first jug, crossing through to push my fingers into the next slot and start the traverse. Feet swing free and are planted with careful concern onto footholds which spit the unwary off without a second thought. Stretching across I feel my toes slide as I press each fingertip into the next edge. I match and bring my foot back to push through the next move, a throw. I hang in the air in slow motion as I watch my hand onto the next hold, positive and comforting. One more move and I’m on the jug. I shake the aches from my arms and press on, the holds here are flat and useful, but the wall is steep and I can’t hang around. With fingers wrapped around the largest, highest edge I begin the traverse back right. The first traverse is all about finger strength and body tension, but this one is about footwork and balance. I hum my way through the moves. Right foot, left foot. I reach for the undercut. It feels good – body position is important here. Clip. A reach for the small, insecure pinch for my left hand causes a flutter. Breathing deeply I shuffle my right hand to the two finger edge I need to hold my balance. Left foot, right foot. I’m set. The next move will land me on the jug, but I’m frozen. I have to bounce into it, sinking my fingers into the pocket. I’m excited – that’s the hardest climbing over – but I’m barely halfway and I try hard not to burst the bubble of concentration that has got me this far. My forearms are tired and with each move I try to shake life into them. I know the holds up here. Each has its own character. The two-finger pocket, the sloping edge and my favourite, the incut, two-hand crimp. From this crimp I attempt a recovery. It’s too late for that but the distraction is enough as I force my fingers into the crack above. A quick foot-shuffle and I can grasp the sidepull. Pushing my weight across I kick out, searching for one of the small concretions to take the weight from my arms. On fading arms I pull through the most worrying part. The finish involves a hollow section of rock and far from being concerned I will fall, I am worried I will alter this route, with my tired arms lunging at the delicate rock. I try to calm myself to make the reach, pushing my weight into my feet as I dare to trust the edge. Two moves and I make one last pull to the sanctuary of the finishing jug and clip the belay. It’s over. Sardine is the crag warm-up, but I feel cold. I don’t feel the elation I hoped for from clipping the chains. I feel as hollow as the flakes that taunted my aching arms at the finish. My absent daydream is no more than that; the moment is lived out, the world is the same. Alan Bennett said life is like a tin of sardines – we’re all looking for the key. In my case sport climbing has become about the process and not the completion. Ticking a route simply means you have to start another and the process begins again. The excitement comes from making the impossible possible, not from proving that fact. It’s appropriate that Sardine is the warm-up. As I glance at the overhangs to my left I wonder what the next hollow goal will be? n 20 Sep–Oct 2017 www.climber.co.uk
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Page 1 and 2: SEP-OCT 2017 STONEY SPORT PEAK MID-
Page 3 and 4: EDITOR’S THOUGHTS A UK First Whil
Page 5 and 6: contents News 6: News UK’s first
Page 7 and 8: headlines McClure climbs UK’s fir
Page 9 and 10: SIROCCO ® At 170 grams, a featherw
Page 11 and 12: We are the bond stronger than any r
Page 13 and 14: Billy Ridal, Will Bosi and Orrin Co
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Page 23 and 24: Tenzing Norgay proved to be a talen
Page 25 and 26: DESTINATION Dinas Mot Welsh trad ni
Page 27 and 28: DEStination It was originally climb
Page 29 and 30: DEStination The easiest route on th
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Page 33 and 34: Firstly, it’s actually quite hard
Page 35 and 36: the climber interview Not afraid of
Page 37 and 38: the climber interview aerobic) so I
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Page 43 and 44: DEStination Harder Une Jeune Fille
Page 45 and 46: Torridon Blocs Words and Photograph
Page 47 and 48: Around the bloc There is, however,
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Page 51 and 52: Clockwise from below: Caroline enjo
Page 53 and 54: James Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini
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Page 57 and 58: DEStination The upper tier above th
Page 59 and 60: DEStination Sniffer Clark and the l
Page 61 and 62: DEStination pocketed wall that keep
Page 63: BEGINNER OR ENTRY-LEVEL HARNESSES D
Page 66 and 67: Exercise 1 - Redpointing • You sh
Page 68 and 69: training & skills Glen Chapman is c
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gear review To further aid this it
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gear review Tents With tents there
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gear review The material used is ny
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The Women in Adventure Film Competi
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Climber September/October 2017

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