Climber September/October 2017

More documents

Recommendations

Info

CLIMBING WALLS » LIVERPOOL » HERTFORDSHIRE CLIMBING AT XC • 880m² of high quality climbing • Bouldering Area • 6 Auto Belays • Novice Area • 14 metre high walls with a mixture of top ropes and lead lines • A combinaon combinaon combinaon combinaon combinaon of Lightwave, Cristalithe and Mozaik climbing systems XC Jarman Park Hemel Hempstead Herts, HP2 4JS Call: 01442 507193 www.thexc.co.uk » OXFORD ROCK SOLID OXFORDSHIRE’S PREMIER CLIMBING WALL » STOKE 01865 484370 climb@brookes.ac.uk www.brookes.ac.uk/sport » SHEFFIELD » STOCKPORT CLIMBING WALL SERVICES • Safety Inspections • Route Setting • Instructor Training • Route Setter Training • Technical Advice and Consulting +44 (0) 79741 85374 info@climbingwallservices.com www.climbingwallservices.com ACCOMMODATION ACCOMMODATION FOR CLIMBERS & WALKERS ▲ Self catering Blacksmiths Hostel and The Smiddy Bunkhouse ▲ Snowgoose apartments ▲ 2 efficient drying rooms ▲ Off road parking ▲ Bike & Canoe Storage ▲ Lecture – meeting room for 12 persons ▲ Convenient village location www.accommodation-fortwilliam.co.uk COURSES • GUIDING • MOUNTAIN GEAR HIRE COURSES & GUIDING ● high mountain walking & scrambling ● rock climbing & abseiling ● summer & winter mountaineering ● winter mountaineering ● snow & ice ● kayaking & open canoeing on rivers sea and loch ● dinghy sailing ● WILDERNESS EXPEDITIONS ● OUTDOOR EQUIPMENT HIRE www.mountainguidesscotland.co.uk Snowgoose Mountain Centre & The Smiddy Bunkhouse, Station Road, Corpach, Fort William PH33 7JH Tel: 01397 772467 Contact John Cuthbertson (MIC) & Tina
Mountaineering Legends in collaboration with Vertebrate Publishing Toni Egger Toni Egger (1926–1959) was an Italian mountaineer and native German speaker. He was one of the strongest mountaineers of the post Second World War period. He died at the age of 32 in circumstances that were never fully clarified, in an attempt to climb Cerro Torre in Patagonia. According to Cesare Maestri (his rope companion on the occasion), Egger was hit by an avalanche near the triangular junction of the East Wall during descent. His remains were found in 1974 on the Torre Glacier. In the post-war period, Egger’s mountaineering career began. In 1950, after having gone to the Dolomites using smugglers’ paths, as he had no passport, he was so impressed by the mountains writing, ‘I arrived for the first time in the Dolomites and I was enchanted by the beauty of the majestic mountains. I have a longing desire to return to devote myself to more important excursions’. Soon after with Franz Reinzer, he climbed the North Wall of Cima Grande di Lavaredo. Then with Heini Heinricher he climbed a new winter route on the North Wall of the Lanser Kopf and the North Face of Roter Turm. In 1951 he enrolled on the Alpine course at Zillertal; among the 50 participants he is ranked fourth in the winter and second in the summer. Notes in his diary read, ‘(it) was a great success, as there are many other excellent mountaineers, and I honestly acknowledge that I never felt the best’. Soon after he graduated as an Alpine guide. In 1952 he made several firsts in the Dolomites, including the first ascent of the South West Corner of Roter Turm, other north faces and together with Franco Mantelli he climbed the Matterhorn by the Furggen Ridge. His many fast, and sometimes solo, ascents in the Alps get him the nickname of ‘The Weasel’. In 1957 he participated in an exploratory expedition to Peru organized by the Austrian Alpine Club and directed by Heinrich Klier, on which he and Siegfried Jungmair made the first ascent of Jirishanca. In 1958, Cesare Maestri was organizing an expedition to Cerro Torre. After difficult climbing from 6th to 15th January 1959, to equip the 300m of a dihedral leading to the triangular embankment of the East Wall, the team were stopped by bad weather. On 28th January, Maestri, Egger and Fava departed to try for the top; Fava soon returned to the base leaving Maestri and Egger alone. Six days later, on 3rd February, Fava found Maestri half-buried in the snow, saying that they had reached the summit the previous day, but on the descent Egger had been hit and dragged away by an avalanche. The camera that could have documented the ascent was lost in the accident. The Maestri-Egger climb of 1959 is strongly contested in the mountaineering world because of numerous inaccuracies and contradictions by Maestri. Ed Douglas in his new book The Magician’s Glass talks about this mystery and the tragic doubts surrounding the death of Toni Egger, a true mountaineering legend. 82 Sep–Oct <strong>2017</strong> www.climber.co.uk
Page 1 and 2:
SEP-OCT 2017 STONEY SPORT PEAK MID-
Page 3 and 4:
EDITOR’S THOUGHTS A UK First Whil
Page 5 and 6:
contents News 6: News UK’s first
Page 7 and 8:
headlines McClure climbs UK’s fir
Page 9 and 10:
SIROCCO ® At 170 grams, a featherw
Page 11 and 12:
We are the bond stronger than any r
Page 13 and 14:
Billy Ridal, Will Bosi and Orrin Co
Page 15 and 16:
www.climber.co.uk Sep-Oct 2017 15
Page 17 and 18:
Page 19 and 20:
Page 21 and 22:
WIN 1 of 3 Sea to Summit InSULATEd
Page 23 and 24:
Tenzing Norgay proved to be a talen
Page 25 and 26:
DESTINATION Dinas Mot Welsh trad ni
Page 27 and 28:
DEStination It was originally climb
Page 29 and 30:
DEStination The easiest route on th
Page 31 and 32: SAVE MAR-APR 2017 WHEN YOU SUBSCRIB
Page 33 and 34: Firstly, it’s actually quite hard
Page 35 and 36: the climber interview Not afraid of
Page 37 and 38: the climber interview aerobic) so I
Page 39 and 40: DEStination www.climber.co.uk Sep-O
Page 41 and 42: DEStination www.climber.co.uk Sep-O
Page 43 and 44: DEStination Harder Une Jeune Fille
Page 45 and 46: Torridon Blocs Words and Photograph
Page 47 and 48: Around the bloc There is, however,
Page 49 and 50: CHECK OUT THE WEBSITE www.climber.c
Page 51 and 52: Clockwise from below: Caroline enjo
Page 53 and 54: James Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini
Page 55 and 56: DESTINATION www.climber.co.uk Sep-O
Page 57 and 58: DEStination The upper tier above th
Page 59 and 60: DEStination Sniffer Clark and the l
Page 61 and 62: DEStination pocketed wall that keep
Page 63: BEGINNER OR ENTRY-LEVEL HARNESSES D
Page 66 and 67: Exercise 1 - Redpointing • You sh
Page 68 and 69: training & skills Glen Chapman is c
Page 70 and 71: Rab Alpine Bivi Weight: 470g RRP £
Page 72 and 73: gear review Sea to Summit Spark SPI
Page 74 and 75: gear review To further aid this it
Page 76 and 77: gear review Tents With tents there
Page 78 and 79: gear review The material used is ny
Page 80 and 81: The Women in Adventure Film Competi
Page 84 and 85: NEXT ISSUE NOVEMBER-DECEMBER Includ
show all

Climber September/October 2017

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

Delete template?

Save as template?