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Climber September/October 2017

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BEGINNER OR ENTRY-LEVEL HARNESSES<br />

DMM Viper ➊<br />

£52.50<br />

Weight: 410g (medium)<br />

3 sizes (S, M, L)<br />

This is a durable and comfortable beginner’s harness at a very good<br />

price. It shares the same excellent shaping, materials and buckle system<br />

as DMM’s other high-end harnesses, but differs in having a fi xed waist<br />

belt. This means you need to be more careful to get the right fi t to make<br />

sure the generous allocation of fi ve gear loops are centred, but with three<br />

sizes to choose from that shouldn’t be a problem. A good entry-level<br />

harness for indoor or outdoor use, and summer or winter climbing.<br />

Info: www.dmmclimbing.com<br />

Petzl Corax ➋<br />

£60<br />

Weight: 490g (Size 1)<br />

2 sizes (1, 2)<br />

The Corax has been around for some time, but with good reason.<br />

This is a solid and robust harness with the essential features to take<br />

the beginner into all manner of climbing activities. The double-buckle<br />

waist belt makes it easily adjustable to a wide range of sizes. The<br />

leg loops and waist belt are quite wide, but well-shaped for ease of<br />

movement. A safety feature for beginner climbers is the bright green<br />

belay loop that helps identify the correct connection point for the<br />

belay/abseil device.<br />

Info: www.petzl.com / www.lyon-outdoor.co.uk (stockist info)<br />

Camp Jasper CR4 ➌<br />

£59.99<br />

Weight: 515g (XS/medium)<br />

2 sizes (XS/M and L/XL)<br />

New for 2012 from Camp is another entry-level, all-round harness that also<br />

features a two-buckle waist closure system so that it is easy to center the<br />

belt, gear loops and tie-in point regardless of your waist size. Very similar<br />

to the Corax with a wide but well-shaped waist belt to offer good lumbar<br />

support. Four gear loops offer adequate racking, and both leg loops can<br />

be released if needed. A solid and durable, but slightly heavier alternative.<br />

Info: www.camp.it / www.allcord.co.uk (stockist info)<br />

Julie-Ann Clyma gearing up in Calico Basin, Red Rocks, wearing<br />

the Black Diamond Siren harness. Photo: Roger Payne<br />

➊<br />

➋<br />

➌<br />

78 March 2012 www.climber.co.uk www.climber.co.uk March 2012 79<br />

gear review.indd 78 1/5/12 11:09:17<br />

The first thing you will notice when you flick<br />

through it is the attention to detail that has been<br />

put into the presentation and that it is written in<br />

Spanish and English. The introduction is concise,<br />

yet has all the necessary information you need,<br />

including a very clear general map, where to<br />

stay and what the topo symbols mean. There<br />

is an interesting section on ‘Geography and<br />

Wildlife’ as well as a very important section<br />

on ‘Access and Etiquette’.<br />

Each crag has its own introduction, including<br />

the style of climbing, orientation regarding the sun,<br />

walk-in times and access map with GPS co-ordinates.<br />

The topos are very accurately drawn on<br />

clear colour photos and printed on top quality<br />

paper. All pitch lengths are given. However, there<br />

are no stars. The authors don’t want climbers to<br />

be drawn towards particular routes, with the result<br />

that they become polished and end up with queues<br />

during busy periods, they want you to find out for<br />

yourself and have fun doing so. The action photos<br />

are some of the best I have seen in a climbing<br />

guide and really do give you an important first<br />

impression. They fire you up, your fingers start<br />

to sweat and you start mentally planning how<br />

to get there as soon as possible.<br />

The valley is already quite well-known for its<br />

amazing tufas at steep crags such as Rumenes<br />

and El Infierno. However, this is not just an area<br />

that suits climbers operating in the big numbers<br />

because what is not so well-known is the fact that<br />

there are also many crags that offer really enjoyable<br />

climbing at a more reasonable standard in equally<br />

impressive surroundings. In fact, much of the<br />

new guide is taken up with crags with amenable<br />

grades that should allow mixed parties to enjoy<br />

the valley more, making a morning cranking on<br />

tufas followed by an afternoon on the slabs (or<br />

vice versa) a practical option.<br />

The guide includes a total of 32 crags, of<br />

which 24 are published for the first time,<br />

including the jaw-dropping Cueva Carcalosa<br />

(which will soon become internationally<br />

important for those seeking long steep voyages<br />

in tufa paradise) and the long established, but<br />

nonetheless previously secret, Cicera (with its<br />

wealth of demanding crimpy climbing in the<br />

summer shade). La Desfiladero de la Hermida is in<br />

A5 format, has 176 pages and almost 700 routes<br />

to choose, graded from F3+ to F8c+ and offers<br />

great value at £20. Please bear in mind that it is<br />

the only definitive guide and purchasing it will<br />

help contribute towards future equipping in the<br />

area. After you’ve been climbing, don’t forget to<br />

have a beer at La Cuadrona, followed by a swim<br />

in the hot springs up the road.<br />

My advice; skip Céüse this summer, buy this<br />

topo, book your ferry – job done.<br />

El Desfiladero de LaHermida is published<br />

by Roca Verde and is available direct from:<br />

www.rocaverdeclimbing.com<br />

Mike Owen<br />

TRY OUR DIGITAL<br />

MAGAZINE FOR<br />

HARNESSES<br />

Download our 16 page<br />

taster of <strong>Climber</strong> for FREE<br />

and see what you think.<br />

Find out more...<br />

www.climber.co.uk<br />

We regularly run gear reviews. This is a snippet of a<br />

recent one from the March 2012 issue of <strong>Climber</strong>.

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