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BEGINNER OR ENTRY-LEVEL HARNESSES<br />
DMM Viper ➊<br />
£52.50<br />
Weight: 410g (medium)<br />
3 sizes (S, M, L)<br />
This is a durable and comfortable beginner’s harness at a very good<br />
price. It shares the same excellent shaping, materials and buckle system<br />
as DMM’s other high-end harnesses, but differs in having a fi xed waist<br />
belt. This means you need to be more careful to get the right fi t to make<br />
sure the generous allocation of fi ve gear loops are centred, but with three<br />
sizes to choose from that shouldn’t be a problem. A good entry-level<br />
harness for indoor or outdoor use, and summer or winter climbing.<br />
Info: www.dmmclimbing.com<br />
Petzl Corax ➋<br />
£60<br />
Weight: 490g (Size 1)<br />
2 sizes (1, 2)<br />
The Corax has been around for some time, but with good reason.<br />
This is a solid and robust harness with the essential features to take<br />
the beginner into all manner of climbing activities. The double-buckle<br />
waist belt makes it easily adjustable to a wide range of sizes. The<br />
leg loops and waist belt are quite wide, but well-shaped for ease of<br />
movement. A safety feature for beginner climbers is the bright green<br />
belay loop that helps identify the correct connection point for the<br />
belay/abseil device.<br />
Info: www.petzl.com / www.lyon-outdoor.co.uk (stockist info)<br />
Camp Jasper CR4 ➌<br />
£59.99<br />
Weight: 515g (XS/medium)<br />
2 sizes (XS/M and L/XL)<br />
New for 2012 from Camp is another entry-level, all-round harness that also<br />
features a two-buckle waist closure system so that it is easy to center the<br />
belt, gear loops and tie-in point regardless of your waist size. Very similar<br />
to the Corax with a wide but well-shaped waist belt to offer good lumbar<br />
support. Four gear loops offer adequate racking, and both leg loops can<br />
be released if needed. A solid and durable, but slightly heavier alternative.<br />
Info: www.camp.it / www.allcord.co.uk (stockist info)<br />
Julie-Ann Clyma gearing up in Calico Basin, Red Rocks, wearing<br />
the Black Diamond Siren harness. Photo: Roger Payne<br />
➊<br />
➋<br />
➌<br />
78 March 2012 www.climber.co.uk www.climber.co.uk March 2012 79<br />
gear review.indd 78 1/5/12 11:09:17<br />
The first thing you will notice when you flick<br />
through it is the attention to detail that has been<br />
put into the presentation and that it is written in<br />
Spanish and English. The introduction is concise,<br />
yet has all the necessary information you need,<br />
including a very clear general map, where to<br />
stay and what the topo symbols mean. There<br />
is an interesting section on ‘Geography and<br />
Wildlife’ as well as a very important section<br />
on ‘Access and Etiquette’.<br />
Each crag has its own introduction, including<br />
the style of climbing, orientation regarding the sun,<br />
walk-in times and access map with GPS co-ordinates.<br />
The topos are very accurately drawn on<br />
clear colour photos and printed on top quality<br />
paper. All pitch lengths are given. However, there<br />
are no stars. The authors don’t want climbers to<br />
be drawn towards particular routes, with the result<br />
that they become polished and end up with queues<br />
during busy periods, they want you to find out for<br />
yourself and have fun doing so. The action photos<br />
are some of the best I have seen in a climbing<br />
guide and really do give you an important first<br />
impression. They fire you up, your fingers start<br />
to sweat and you start mentally planning how<br />
to get there as soon as possible.<br />
The valley is already quite well-known for its<br />
amazing tufas at steep crags such as Rumenes<br />
and El Infierno. However, this is not just an area<br />
that suits climbers operating in the big numbers<br />
because what is not so well-known is the fact that<br />
there are also many crags that offer really enjoyable<br />
climbing at a more reasonable standard in equally<br />
impressive surroundings. In fact, much of the<br />
new guide is taken up with crags with amenable<br />
grades that should allow mixed parties to enjoy<br />
the valley more, making a morning cranking on<br />
tufas followed by an afternoon on the slabs (or<br />
vice versa) a practical option.<br />
The guide includes a total of 32 crags, of<br />
which 24 are published for the first time,<br />
including the jaw-dropping Cueva Carcalosa<br />
(which will soon become internationally<br />
important for those seeking long steep voyages<br />
in tufa paradise) and the long established, but<br />
nonetheless previously secret, Cicera (with its<br />
wealth of demanding crimpy climbing in the<br />
summer shade). La Desfiladero de la Hermida is in<br />
A5 format, has 176 pages and almost 700 routes<br />
to choose, graded from F3+ to F8c+ and offers<br />
great value at £20. Please bear in mind that it is<br />
the only definitive guide and purchasing it will<br />
help contribute towards future equipping in the<br />
area. After you’ve been climbing, don’t forget to<br />
have a beer at La Cuadrona, followed by a swim<br />
in the hot springs up the road.<br />
My advice; skip Céüse this summer, buy this<br />
topo, book your ferry – job done.<br />
El Desfiladero de LaHermida is published<br />
by Roca Verde and is available direct from:<br />
www.rocaverdeclimbing.com<br />
Mike Owen<br />
TRY OUR DIGITAL<br />
MAGAZINE FOR<br />
HARNESSES<br />
Download our 16 page<br />
taster of <strong>Climber</strong> for FREE<br />
and see what you think.<br />
Find out more...<br />
www.climber.co.uk<br />
We regularly run gear reviews. This is a snippet of a<br />
recent one from the March 2012 issue of <strong>Climber</strong>.