6 The colours and the clean lines make Nesscliffe what it is and this route is a great example. James Pearson climbing the striking arête of Marlene Direct (E7 6c). Pete Wilson amongst the pockets on the brilliant Marlene (E4 6a). 2 What is it to touch rock, to feel the eb and flow of Jurassic-dinosaur-sand, through ones fingertips, to see the sun set westwards over Welsh Berwyn hills and to smell the sandy decay mixed with beds of rhododendron petals. Social, in country parkland, taking turns on routes and blocs, Shropshire lads and lasses top roping and working towards leads of chosen routes, trying to be perfect, not rushing, many visits. Some crags bring a focus of a style, an epicentre and focus, a type that is unique to the UK, in this I would list Gogarth, Cloggy, Stanage, Bowden Doors, Malham, Raven Tor, Scafell and the far north west of Scotland, indeed in writing this list I realise that it is the ones I have missed that gives the true breadth and value of our climbing on this little insignificant island and that gives us our importance. I climb a lot in France but it is here that the width is. Nesscliffe is up there, a type, soft vertical sandstone walls seemingly designed for climbing, 20 metres or so high, accessible with easy belays from old pines and rhododendrons protecting crag tops. Bouldering above flat sandy landings and traverses of quality. An open, honest and embracing local ethic that has developed from the 1970s clandestine visits that involved mainly top roping (thanks here to locals such as Nick Postlethwaite and Stuart Cathcart) and occasional leads from passing pirates (Ed Drumond, Mark linden and Crispin Waddy). Routes then were quite close to the cutting edge and so it has remained. The crag is now mature, a clear ethic, and routes in all grades above E1 to welcome the visitor, many routes have been on-sighted, even harder ones like My Piano E7/8 by James Pearson but the norm is for headpointing; it just suits the crag best (rock is soft and wear’s/breaks easily, protection is from situ gear and soft sandy wires and cams) and now with routes in all grades you can pick your victim route and commence synchrony with it, what could be more enjoyable? So join us on a rope, on a lovely autumn evening; or in winter when friction is at its best, and each grain of sand bites reassuringly into fingertips, and pulling down or across some of the very best mid-grade vertical bouldering you can find. The rock at Nesscliffe is particularly vulnerable to over enthusiasm so the only plea is to not climb immediately after the crag has been wet and not to over-brush or under perform. Traverses at Nesscliffe are of the very best order and give route physicality without all the faff and trappings and partner-need that the world of routes inhabits. When visiting with only a pad but with a need for something longer head for the Far Buttress, off vertical, abrasive, and quality. Quite simply the rock here is mint. Stay Cool, the traverse of this crag from In the Court of the Sludgbarron to The Arch is a classic technical crimpfest and about route F7c ish and the up problems it passes en route such as Past Cruising (Font 6a+) and Deep Slot Dino (Font 6a) are class (and touched upon in the Around the Bloc feature in the <strong>Climber</strong> May–June <strong>2017</strong> issue). The Kynastons cave area is probably the most frequented bouldering area at Nesscliffe. It is very easy to find and near the parking. This area does give some quality problems but it can suffer from being a bit dank and salty-sandy. The short traverse here is Berlin’s Fallen (F7a), whilst the full traverse from the corner on the left Berlin Wall Traverse (route F7c ish) is both elusive and fingery. Then there is upstairs, Little Northumberland, aka The Terrace. Tiny, perfect rock, suntrap, just winters best. Steeper this bit bulges and barrels and suite the stronger of finger and arm. The third of the traverse classics is the right to left traverse of Little Northumberland (Font 7b+). Chris Naylor crossed this one first in 2000 on the same beautiful February day as I climbed Northumberland Wonderland; but since then I have made over 1000 crossings and 2 years ago managed the there-and-back combination of Lit-Nor-Lit at Font 8a. All of the boulder problems have now been climbed from a traverse in from Little Northumberland by a combination of Tom Fenick, Kieran King, Ed Booth and myself and all are improved for it. Sadly in 2011 the tiny crucial crimp on the traverse broke off rendering the place less. With consideration and solemnity (and Ed as witness) I replaced the hold exactly as it was and all seems to be holding up at the moment. To complete all three classic traverses in a day is a fine objective for the finger strong. But back to the main thrust of this article; the routes and a selection for those in need of inspiration: Fun routes at a reasonable grade Batman (HVS 5a) Route introduction to the Far Buttress, this route has good protection in the layback flake but will you have the strength and stamina to put the medium cams in. Once in the pull out and right at the top requires a committed act of faith. Red Square (E2 5c) A fine corner line, really brilliant protection mixed with burly laybacking and careful bridging. This makes this a popular route and a first choice at Nesscliffe. The final move is the crux and often sees sweat and heroics. This history of this route is tied up with Pete Crew, Baz Ingle and Ed Drummond and Bob Llewelyn, all of North Wales pioneering fame. The route was first led in 1967. Open Air (E3 5c) Not the norm for Nesscliffe, this route requires careful step ups at about 8m with no protection. Lovely moves and quite predictable but keep heels low to maximise friction and confidence. This route has recently seen several broken limbs so be warned and be careful. It’s a kind of great slab thing. The upper part of the slab is easy but requires some care with the rock and top out. Marlene (E4 6a) Angus Killie and Tom ‘Fennez’ Fenwick are now local hero’s; climbing E9 and bouldering Font 8a+. I met them one day when they were trying this route as truant schoolchildren on a wild Wednesday. Angus had just taken a ground fall from 10m and was dusting himself off. Under misplaced encouragement from myself and Fennez, he was back up and didn’t make the same mistake twice. This route ties together an arête, a pocketed wall and then a corner, a kind of Nesscliffe-ménage -medley. Crank it. 6 40 Sep–Oct <strong>2017</strong> www.climber.co.uk
DEStination www.climber.co.uk Sep–Oct <strong>2017</strong> 41
Change language