60 Sep–Oct <strong>2017</strong> www.climber.co.uk A long route and recent addition to Goddard’s Quarry, Nick Taylor on the crux section high on Goddard’s Corner (F6a+).
DEStination pocketed wall that keeps on coming but with the odd rest and, finally, Superveloce (F6c+) left again is first-rate with a blind finish. There are a couple of projects in this area identified by missing hangers so please respect these as it takes a lot of effort to develop these venues. Darlton Quarry Darlton Quarry is the middle of the three and least developed with most of the routes climbed by Gibson. The routes are on the north-facing back wall over to the right when you enter. Eight routes have been added with grades from F6c+ to F7b on good rock and sustained in nature. The best of the routes start with the first on the left-hand side of this wall, This is Not a Drill (F7a), offering good face climbing and a crux on small holds, the easiest on this section are second and third from the right, The Knew and Blue Knew (both F6c+), the final right-hand route is The Grey (F7a+) with a mix of high steps and rock-overs. There are a few easy routes on the opposite wall and the best is Still Game (F5+), starting next to a block of wood that is bolted to the wall (but not by the first ascensionist) then to the right are four routes at F5+, F5+, F5 and F6b+. Goddard’s Quarry Goddard’s Quarry is opposite Stoney Middleton Garage buttress, accessed via the stile opposite the Lover’s Leap Garage. With most of the development having taken place on the north-facing walls most areas are in shade until the late afternoon/evening in summer. The initial wall encountered at the top of the approach track, Crustacean Wall, was the first developed in the quarry (by Gibson) just in time for inclusion in BMC Peak Limestone North guidebook. Since then a number of climbs of varied character have been added throughout the quarry by Gibson, Mark Pretty, Paul Freeman, Nick Taylor, John Allen and David Simmonite. Recommended on Crustacean Wall is the obvious crack of Pearls from the Shell (F6a+) plus the technical walls to its left and right, Brachiopods Bite Back (F6b) and Red Mist (F7a). Walking into the quarry there are some massive walls over 30m+ in height. The first route By Goddard (F6c) takes a white scarred pillar and to the right is the long arête of Sheffield Tape Archive (F6a+) giving lovely moves with a good sequence through a small shallow corner at half height. Right again is a striking arête high on the cliff taken by Steps (F6c+), perhaps the first ascensionist’s second favourite band after the Stranglers? Then, after a number of routes high on the cliff starting from an access rope, there is a big and prominent left-facing corner; Goddard’s Corner (F6a+) gives some super old fashioned traditional laybacking and bridging on the crux upper corner. After this head up a grassy bank to the right that eventually levels out and leads to The Plantation. Several worthwhile routes are on the Upper Tier to your left as you head up the bank, accessed with care across a scree slope. At the very left-hand end a corner above a belay bolt is Boy Better Know (F6a) giving old school jamming in a fine position. Right again is Weasel Wall; the left-hand routes, Weasel Assassin (F7a+) and Psycho Squirrel (F7b), are very intense and technical. The right-hand routes start on diabolical rock but are pleasant above, both are F6b+. The next cluster of short routes are even higher up the scree cone, Buzzards Banquet (F6a+) is a good route with an off-width finish, Billy Bunter (F5) is an easy slab and there are two routes at F6a+. Back down below and to the right, facing the cliff, are several more routes in left-hand section of The Plantation that are not described but offer a grade spread from F5 to F6c. Moving along to The Plantation’s main area, all routes on the left-hand side have tricky starts, on the left Crozzles Away (F6b), right again is Pebbles Away (F6b) via a thin crack before moving right to another crack and the recently added Clastic Rock, a sustained F6b direct through a small overlap from the initial thin crack of Pebbles. The next route is Unbroken (F7b) followed by 3D Magic (F6c) with good pumpy climbing that swings into the alcove and up through bulges to the short rib above. On the right side of this wall are seven more routes from F6b+ to F7a+. Recommended are the two routes on the right, the wonderfully sustained Debrilliant (F6c) and Careless Talc (F6b+) complete with a tricky finish. Over to the right-hand side of The Plantation area is a scattering of easier routes, first up is the groove of Mup Me and arête of Strong like Horse, both F5+ and these share a lower-off. Isolated in a bay behind a distinctive tree is Tree Twister (F6a+), at the far right-hand is a flowstone pillar offering up Dendrophilia (F6b+) and on the right is Eticlac and Underclac at F6b. Next up, two routes gain a ledge then clip shared bolts from either side; Style Scott (F6b) and Flabba Holt (F6a) on the right. Lastly is a flowstone crack swinging right onto a wall to give Junjo Lawes (F6a). The last area is at the far end of the quarry on the opposite side – Sunshine Walls – which actually become shady on summer afternoons. Routes on the main wall are left-to-right: Sun of a Gun (F7a+); Sunny Side Up (F6c+); Here Comes the Sun (F6b+) and Good Day Sunshine (F6b). Finally, a pillar 30m to the right is the easiest thereabouts, Sun Honey (F6a). On the wall directly below Sunshine Wall is Chuckle Brothers offering a nice F6a+ with a tricky start. n Please Note Inclusion of some of the crags in this article, in particular the south side of the dale doesn’t give you the right to climb there. If asked to leave please do so courteously and without hesitation. Please bear in mind that these quarries can contain loose rock and some of the routes, even though well-cleaned, can be dusty with the odd dubious hold so take this into account. As with all climbing, climbers and belayers should be aware of this and pay close attention at all times and use of helmets is advisable. <strong>Climber</strong>s should evaluate any fixed gear used and make a personal judgement about its quality and trustworthiness. Route information and guidebooks The final moves of Careless Talc (F6b+) in The Plantation area of Goddard’s Quarry are the toughest; Stephen Coughlan eyeing them up. It is beyond this article to highlight every route but further details can be found on Gary Gibson’s invaluable and regularly updated website www.sportsclimbs.co.uk There’s a selection of all but the newer crags in both the BMC’s Peak Limestone North and Rockfax’s Peak Limestone guidebooks. www.climber.co.uk Sep–Oct <strong>2017</strong> 61
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