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DEStination<br />
The easiest route on the Western<br />
Wing is Slow Ledge Climb, a classic HS 4b<br />
which is really a continuation from any<br />
route at the top of the Nose but makes a<br />
particularly good extension to The Cracks<br />
or any of the VS routes. It is also all on<br />
the gritty rock and features something of<br />
an outrageous traverse, which with the<br />
Nose and the steep scree slope all sitting<br />
below you makes it feel 10 times higher<br />
than it actually is.<br />
If you are lucky and get drought<br />
conditions you should climb Black Spring,<br />
a demanding and technical HVS 5a. Where<br />
the first few pitches are on the more<br />
edgy rock and whilst looking boring are<br />
actually some of the highlights of the<br />
route, especially the moves left out of<br />
the often still damp crack. You then<br />
transition in almost a step onto the<br />
friction rock and make a direct line to<br />
join and cross Slow Ledge Climb. Again<br />
the exposure by the top is magnificent. 6<br />
4 Adam Riches contemplating<br />
the crux of West Rib (HVS 5a)<br />
on the right side of The Nose.<br />
Photo: Mark Reeves<br />
Katie Haston making short<br />
work of The Chain, a great E1<br />
5b finger crack that never fails<br />
to entertain and gives a super<br />
variation to West Rib. Photo:<br />
Mark Reeves 2<br />
www.climber.co.uk Sep–Oct <strong>2017</strong> 29
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