Climber September/October 2017

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8 A great way to end the day. Mike Hutton scopes out an unnamed problem above Angel Walls on a perfect evening. Mike Hutton on the bold, sketchy, but superb Dandy Don’s Arête (Font 6b) at the Ship Boulder. 2 There is even much scope on the opposite side of the glen. Lurking on the foothills of Seana Mheallan is the magnificent Scotty Dog bloc with its bizarre shaped prow and amazing, and quite out there, challenge going by the name of The Diehard (Font 6c+) which surmounts the prow by its two arêtes. Just this boulder alone has scope for many more lines. Even further up the hillside and quite out of view is perhaps the best problem in Torridon. Those who are willing to make the steep scramble through the mountain of heather will realise what all the fuss was about when they cast there eyes on the mother of prows. The Essence (Font 7b+) represents fridge-hugging at its very best and has to be seen to be believed. In reality the bouldering in Torridon is unlikely to ever become over-crowded. After all it is miles away from anywhere and that’s actually a pretty good thing. I hope you too can one day have a magical adventure up on the glens. ■ FACT FILE Guidebooks The best and most up-to-date defi nitive guide to the area is Torridon Bouldering – Welcome to the Jumble by Ian Taylor and Richie Betts the area’s main developers: www.davemacleod.com/shop/torridonbouldering.html If you have the guide then this update will be useful: www.northwestoutdoors.co.uk/northwestoutdoorsullapool/2014/11/torridon-bouldering-update.html Boulder Scotland (Third Edition) by John Watson covers some of Torridon and is a great guide to get for the rest of the country. Boulder Britain by Niall Grimes will get you to the crag and gives an overview of the most popular areas. How to get there The majority of the boulders are scattered on the hillsides of Glen Torridon below the ridgeline of the famous Liathach mountain range and can be accessed from the parking in Torridon village. A pair of Wellington boots will come in handy to cross the bog. When to go The boulders by their free standing nature will face all directions but many of the problems face south and west so will receive a lot of sun and are quickly dried by any prevailing southwesterly winds. Sunny winter, spring and autumn days offer the best conditions. Although it’s possible to climb from May to <strong>September</strong> the midges will send you packing unless there is a breeze. It’s best to avoid the area after rain as the sandstone is easily damaged when damp. 48 Sep–Oct <strong>2017</strong> www.climber.co.uk
CHECK OUT THE WEBSITE www.climber.co.uk PACKED FULL OF ARTICLES ON MUST VISIT DESTINATIONS AROUND THE UK AND THE GLOBE, INCLUDING: • UP TO DATE NEWS • COACHING AND SKILLS TIPS • BOULDERING • INTERVIEWS • REVIEWS • VIDEOS AND MORE WIN THE LATEST GEAR AND FABULOUS HOLIDAYS IN OUR REGULAR COMPETITIONS PLUS DETAILS OF OUR LATEST DIGITAL EDITION, BACK ISSUES AND SUPERB SUBSCRIPTION OFFERS all this at www.climber.co.uk
Page 1 and 2: SEP-OCT 2017 STONEY SPORT PEAK MID-
Page 3 and 4: EDITOR’S THOUGHTS A UK First Whil
Page 5 and 6: contents News 6: News UK’s first
Page 7 and 8: headlines McClure climbs UK’s fir
Page 9 and 10: SIROCCO ® At 170 grams, a featherw
Page 11 and 12: We are the bond stronger than any r
Page 13 and 14: Billy Ridal, Will Bosi and Orrin Co
Page 15 and 16: www.climber.co.uk Sep-Oct 2017 15
Page 21 and 22: WIN 1 of 3 Sea to Summit InSULATEd
Page 23 and 24: Tenzing Norgay proved to be a talen
Page 25 and 26: DESTINATION Dinas Mot Welsh trad ni
Page 27 and 28: DEStination It was originally climb
Page 29 and 30: DEStination The easiest route on th
Page 31 and 32: SAVE MAR-APR 2017 WHEN YOU SUBSCRIB
Page 33 and 34: Firstly, it’s actually quite hard
Page 35 and 36: the climber interview Not afraid of
Page 37 and 38: the climber interview aerobic) so I
Page 39 and 40: DEStination www.climber.co.uk Sep-O
Page 41 and 42: DEStination www.climber.co.uk Sep-O
Page 43 and 44: DEStination Harder Une Jeune Fille
Page 45 and 46: Torridon Blocs Words and Photograph
Page 47: Around the bloc There is, however,
Page 51 and 52: Clockwise from below: Caroline enjo
Page 53 and 54: James Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini
Page 55 and 56: DESTINATION www.climber.co.uk Sep-O
Page 57 and 58: DEStination The upper tier above th
Page 59 and 60: DEStination Sniffer Clark and the l
Page 61 and 62: DEStination pocketed wall that keep
Page 63: BEGINNER OR ENTRY-LEVEL HARNESSES D
Page 66 and 67: Exercise 1 - Redpointing • You sh
Page 68 and 69: training & skills Glen Chapman is c
Page 70 and 71: Rab Alpine Bivi Weight: 470g RRP £
Page 72 and 73: gear review Sea to Summit Spark SPI
Page 74 and 75: gear review To further aid this it
Page 76 and 77: gear review Tents With tents there
Page 78 and 79: gear review The material used is ny
Page 80 and 81: The Women in Adventure Film Competi
Page 82 and 83: CLIMBING WALLS » LIVERPOOL » HERT
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