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Exercise 1 – Redpointing<br />
• You should feel VERY pumped on this exercise.<br />
• You should not be failing until the last rep in this exercise.<br />
• Your ‘resting time’ should always be at least equal or less than your ‘climbing time.’<br />
Dave Mason in the middle of a<br />
long circuit on the Climbing<br />
Works Sheffield circuit board.<br />
Photo: David Simmonite<br />
1. Warm up<br />
2. Choose a 40-move section of the circuit wall that is at your redpoint grade – this might be two grades<br />
above your on-sight.<br />
3. Break the 40-move circuit into four sections of 10 moves each.<br />
4. Climb each section, followed by a rest period that is equal to the climbing time it took for that section.<br />
5. For example, climb 20 seconds, rest 20 seconds, climb 15 seconds, rest 15 seconds, climb 30 seconds,<br />
rest 30 seconds, etc.<br />
6. Aim to have four to six attempts on the whole circuit in each session with at least 10-15 minutes rest<br />
between each rep.<br />
7. Over a period of eight weeks aim to bring the rest period down by five seconds each week until you<br />
are getting close to redpointing the whole circuit.<br />
8. You will be amazed at what you can achieve by doing this. 6<br />
www.climber.co.uk Sep–Oct <strong>2017</strong> 65
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