training & skills Glen Chapman is climbing a steep power endurance F6b with no particular hard moves – perfect for on-sight training. Photo: David Simmonite www.climber.co.uk Sep–Oct <strong>2017</strong> 67
gear review by <strong>Climber</strong> Test Team Sleep Light Lightweight Camping & Bivvy Gear Heading to climb in remote areas or mountain crags and want to keep weight down? We look at lightweight options for nights out. There are times when you want to climb in the mountains for two or three days (or longer), for example, on Scafell or Ben Nevis, but can’t face the long slog each day. So the alternative is to bed down close to the crag. The problem with this is the amount of weight you’ll be carrying, hauling a trad rack, ropes, food, water, etc is bad enough. Then factor in gear you need to spend a comfortable night and suddenly the weight of your already heavy pack starts to sink in and the appeal of camping diminishes. These days new materials and techniques have shaved considerable amounts of weight from what you need, especially on the basics: sleeping bag, tent and sleeping mats. Most of this stems from the development of kit used by elite athletes taking part in mountain marathons where every gram counts. So we looked at some of the kind of kit available for a two to three season camp or bivvy in far-to-reach places and mountains to help you keep weight down and still maintain comfort. Alpkit Hunka Bivvy Bags Sometimes you may only be out for a night, or are planning an Alpine route where you may be on a ledge mid-route and using a tent isn’t practical. This is where a bivvy bag comes in to protect you from the elements. Alpkit Hunka bivvy bag Weight: 360g RRP £47 The Hunka is a simple and affordable bivvy bag that is waterproof and breathable. It is commonly found near the top of a lot of climbers’ wish list, in fact visit Alpkit’s web site and you’ll likely find it out of stock such is the demand. So, why is it popular? It is manufactured from thin ripstop nylon and weighs in at around 360g. The thin material doesn’t feel as durable as some others on the market, but then the more durable bags are usually heavier. It achieves this weight in no small part by not having a zip, which does make it trickier to get into and out of, especially if you are using a thicker sleeping bag and/or have your mat in there too. But the benefit of going zip-less is that it does massively help to keep rain out. The hood is roomy enough to stuff a dry bag with some clothes in to act as a pillow which helps with a good night’s sleep. There are two drawstrings, one across the chest and the other in the hood, to seal out the elements, and a cinch toggle on either side of the hood by your ears. The drawstrings can get in your face a little during the night and are a mild annoyance. In terms of breathability, be careful to not seal the drawstrings too tightly, otherwise you get a bit of dampness inside, but that applies to other bivvy bags, even those double the price. The Hunka packs down into a neat net stuff sack built into the foot of the bag, and when packed isn’t much bigger than a lightweight hardshell jacket. It comes in a choice of three colours, and an XL is available if you are tall or want to stuff your gear in with you. It is recommended for three season UK and summer Alpine trips. It’s light and small enough that you won’t mind tossing it into your pack as a ‘just in case’ item and at the price it’s a great value product. MSR E-Bivy bag Weight: 236g RRP £105 This truly ultra-light, compact and weather resistant bivvy bag offers the ultimate in minimalist bivvying. The fabric used is 30D silicone coated ripstop nylon for the top and tougher more durable 30D Durashield coated nylon for the base that provides a higher degree of waterproofness. You should be fully aware that it isn’t fully waterproof with no taped or sealed seams but can deal with light showers and morning dew In heavier rain it should be combined with a sleeping bag with hydrophobic down filling designed to keep the down dry and a tarp. Though if you want to be out in fouler weather then you should look at fully waterproof options. The base offers more water resistance and keeps you dry from damp ground with no problem. There is no zip at the entrance with just a simple opening but the entrance is big enough to make it relatively easy to get in. The breathability of the bag was found to be okay with little in the way of condensation and dampness on the inside of the bag and it also keeps the wind out. It was spacious enough to take a sleeping bag complete with mat with ease. It also makes a good ‘cover’ for a sleeping bag, adding to the warmth and durability if the outer shell is particularly lightweight. Given the miniscule weight and tiny pack size you can always leave it in your pack for use as emergency protection. MSR E-Bivy 68 Sep–Oct <strong>2017</strong> www.climber.co.uk
Change language