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Climber September/October 2017

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Clockwise from below:<br />

Caroline enjoying the lead on<br />

Void (E4 6a) at Tremadog, North<br />

Wales. Photo: David Simmonite<br />

Caroline climbing on Bee Wall<br />

in Chattanooga, USA. Photo:<br />

Eddie Gianelloni<br />

Injury allows time to catch<br />

up with some reading.<br />

Photo: Yannick Long<br />

Because I feared to self indulge.<br />

I couldn’t see the difference between<br />

my mind being a little lazy and my<br />

body asking for a break.<br />

Over time I have gained experience,<br />

or perhaps I have learned to accept that<br />

I am not superwoman and my body has<br />

its limits. I can usually feel and decipher<br />

pains that won’t lead to injuries from<br />

pains that must be taken seriously but<br />

that kind of experience, by nature, is<br />

hard to explain. Maybe the first rule<br />

would be to really listen to your body.<br />

To take the time to experience it, and<br />

remember it is just as you focus on a<br />

sense when you taste wine, but focus<br />

on the senses inside your own body.<br />

It is all good and well talking about<br />

experience, but here I am, not climbing<br />

for three weeks now with a partial pulley<br />

in my little pinkie. So what did happen,<br />

and where did I go wrong?<br />

Maybe the first rule<br />

would be to really<br />

listen to your body<br />

Since I stopped competitions five<br />

years ago I have not had one injury, or at<br />

least not a serious one. As I didn’t have<br />

the time pressure of competitions, where<br />

one has to be ready for D-day, I was<br />

usually able to skip one session, or one<br />

week if needed. Of course, the overall<br />

intensity has a lot to do with it, and since<br />

stopping serious structured training<br />

(don’t read this the wrong way, I’m still<br />

training, a lot, just with more days at the<br />

crag and more trips away) my body is<br />

also taking less constant punishment.<br />

James on the other hand has never been<br />

so injured as these days – he’s also never<br />

been as strong. A testament to how little<br />

training he was doing before and how<br />

you perhaps can’t have it all. There is a<br />

lot to say about finding your own body’s<br />

rhythm and balance. It takes time to develop<br />

strength and fitness but, more importantly,<br />

it takes time for your body to<br />

grow strong to cope with such intensity.<br />

Anyone can train hard for a season; very<br />

few manage to train hard for a career but<br />

I’m losing myself… 6<br />

www.climber.co.uk Sep–Oct <strong>2017</strong> 51

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