Climber September/October 2017

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Bob Moulton following the 2nd pitch of Slow Ledge Climb (VS 4b). Photo: Don Sargeant Another stunning line at HVS 5b through this buttress is Jubilee Climb, which picks an intricate line up to what appears to be a gritstone buttress on the third pitch. From below the problem looks obvious and easy. However, on closer acquaintance gaining the steep crack and making it to the easier ground above proves to be rather demanding. Feeling more like a proper gritstone tussle up a HVS crack, it gets surprisingly few ascents for such a fine route. For many the main and final buttress on the West Wing is the Plexus Buttress. Which for me is really the best crag in the Pass, as all the climbing is on the gritsone-esque rock, but don’t tell anyone. Nexus and Plexus are two stunning E1 5b routes which require a little technique, boldness and with crack and roof climbing to overcome. However, Ten Degrees North (E2 5b) is my personal favourite in this area and probably the best E2 in North Wales with the exception of maybe Mousetrap over on Anglesey. The first time I climbed Ten Degrees North I found myself in a rather awkward situation, the blank groove had forced me to start bridging and palming off with my hands and before I knew what I was doing I was body bridging, both hands on one wall and feet on the other, facing down towards my belayer. In that moment of realisation as to what I was doing all I could say was: “I think I might have made a wrong move.” As it was I managed to un-contort myself and continue upwards. I really don’t know why Dinas Mot is so overlooked by climbers It is perhaps this memory that sticks in my mind, one of those great climbs with even better friends. If E2 is too easy then The Windmill (E3 5c) with climbing on yet more superb rock will sort you out. The only problem with the Plexus Buttress is when news gets out that it is in condition climbers flock there like seagulls to a bag of chips on the Llandudno promenade. If you find yourself on the Plexus Buttress and the routes are all taken then you can fill some time with one of the single pitch routes on the right such as Gardd which has a gnarly off-width at the top for HVS 5a. Alternatively Hornets Attack Victor Mature is a great little E2 5c, which has a rather spectacular finale up a thin slab/ arête. Either of these routes will fill time to let the teams ahead to clear out. You also get to watch the action on the Plexus Buttress. I really don’t know why Dinas Mot is so overlooked by climbers. Although sitting opposite the Cromlech means it has tough competition and who wants to climb in the shade when most of the time you can nip up to The Cromlech, Clogwyn y Crochan or Carreg Wasted and get a tan, or at least some warmth. The thing to remember is that during those few precious days when the sun is too strong to climb and the rock is dry, then Dinas Mot comes into is own. This, in itself, makes the place that whole much more special to climb on. Remember though every summer’s evening about 6-7pm the Western Slab of the Nose comes into the sun. Just remember to try and get up there and enjoy some of these amazing routes. n 30 Sep–Oct 2017 www.climber.co.uk
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Page 1 and 2: SEP-OCT 2017 STONEY SPORT PEAK MID-
Page 3 and 4: EDITOR’S THOUGHTS A UK First Whil
Page 5 and 6: contents News 6: News UK’s first
Page 7 and 8: headlines McClure climbs UK’s fir
Page 9 and 10: SIROCCO ® At 170 grams, a featherw
Page 11 and 12: We are the bond stronger than any r
Page 13 and 14: Billy Ridal, Will Bosi and Orrin Co
Page 15 and 16: www.climber.co.uk Sep-Oct 2017 15
Page 21 and 22: WIN 1 of 3 Sea to Summit InSULATEd
Page 23 and 24: Tenzing Norgay proved to be a talen
Page 25 and 26: DESTINATION Dinas Mot Welsh trad ni
Page 27 and 28: DEStination It was originally climb
Page 29: DEStination The easiest route on th
Page 33 and 34: Firstly, it’s actually quite hard
Page 35 and 36: the climber interview Not afraid of
Page 37 and 38: the climber interview aerobic) so I
Page 39 and 40: DEStination www.climber.co.uk Sep-O
Page 41 and 42: DEStination www.climber.co.uk Sep-O
Page 43 and 44: DEStination Harder Une Jeune Fille
Page 45 and 46: Torridon Blocs Words and Photograph
Page 47 and 48: Around the bloc There is, however,
Page 49 and 50: CHECK OUT THE WEBSITE www.climber.c
Page 51 and 52: Clockwise from below: Caroline enjo
Page 53 and 54: James Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini
Page 55 and 56: DESTINATION www.climber.co.uk Sep-O
Page 57 and 58: DEStination The upper tier above th
Page 59 and 60: DEStination Sniffer Clark and the l
Page 61 and 62: DEStination pocketed wall that keep
Page 63: BEGINNER OR ENTRY-LEVEL HARNESSES D
Page 66 and 67: Exercise 1 - Redpointing • You sh
Page 68 and 69: training & skills Glen Chapman is c
Page 70 and 71: Rab Alpine Bivi Weight: 470g RRP £
Page 72 and 73: gear review Sea to Summit Spark SPI
Page 74 and 75: gear review To further aid this it
Page 76 and 77: gear review Tents With tents there
Page 78 and 79: gear review The material used is ny
Page 80 and 81:
The Women in Adventure Film Competi
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CLIMBING WALLS » LIVERPOOL » HERT
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Climber September/October 2017

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