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DEStination<br />
Harder<br />
Une Jeune Fille Quatre Vingt<br />
Dix Ans (E8 6c) (F8a)<br />
The Wall left of 10 O’clock Saturday<br />
Morning is unlikely and blank. A crux at<br />
15 metres has repulsed all on-sight<br />
attempts so far with some spectacular<br />
falls. In the autumn evening glow of<br />
2016 I watched Callum Musket, several<br />
days in and on his last attempt of the<br />
day; he got past all of the difficulties on<br />
the lower wall and climbed the second<br />
crux above. Protection arranged really it<br />
was then just a case of keeping cool and<br />
marching on and keeping focus on the<br />
bit ahead. It was such a sickener to see<br />
him lose power on an easier section<br />
above and ping outwards. So close, but<br />
he’ll be back and get it next time.<br />
Play Me E8/9 7a (F8a+)<br />
James made a great on sight ascent of<br />
My Piano in 2014. I was, I must say a<br />
little perplexed by the strict level of the<br />
ethics he placed upon himself. His wife,<br />
Caroline Ciavaldini, had led the route<br />
before him in more conventional style<br />
and he neither belayed her nor would<br />
watch her so that his on sight was<br />
genuinely that. I am both impressed by<br />
this and slightly unsure whether this<br />
level of professionalism doesn’t detract<br />
from the fun and camaraderie of going<br />
climbing. James then went on to add his<br />
own route climbed in conventional style<br />
up the wall to the right of My Piano. This<br />
route has not been repeated but it looks<br />
brilliant and hard.<br />
A 1000 Setting Suns<br />
(E9 7a) (F8b)<br />
The words you cannot say, the things<br />
you cannot do, or can you? The idea that<br />
it is, in fact possible, develops slowly.<br />
Strain and pull on every finger sinew and<br />
keep cool and focussed on the upper part<br />
where a fall will result in a big whipper,<br />
in my case from the very top of the crag<br />
to land on my wife Sheila who was<br />
belaying. The lower part is unpredictable<br />
and probably E8 in its own right. James<br />
Pearson made a very fine ascent in one<br />
day and Dave Birkett has been up there<br />
too. Angus is so close. n<br />
INFO<br />
Guidebook<br />
Nick Dixon’s Nesscliffe guidebook and updated new routes supplement covers the<br />
entire crag and also includes a DVD to get you motivated, a bargain at £15 for all<br />
of this. You can get hold of it from High Sports in Shrewsbury and Needlesports in<br />
Keswick via their website (or in person) and other good climbing shops.<br />
Finding the crag<br />
From the A5 west of Shrewsbury, roundabouts at either end of the Nesscliffe<br />
bypass are signposted for Nesscliffe village. Head into the village and turn up<br />
the road opposite the Old Three Pigeons pub (decent beer). Take this for a mile<br />
to a small car park on the right. The crag is reached from here by following the<br />
path rightwards to the crag. A gentle walk taking 5–10 minutes depending on<br />
which bit you are heading for.<br />
www.climber.co.uk Sep–Oct <strong>2017</strong> 43
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