Winter 2010

Winter 2010 

WINTER ADVENTURE ISSUE 

Oregon’s 

Greatest 

Ski Trek 

300 miles from 

Mt. Hood to 

Crater Lake 

Winter 

adventure secrets 

from locals 

Crabbing 

season and tasty 

crab recipes 

Oregon Brewing: 

a retrospective 

Jack 

Meissner’s 

1948 journey 

page 40>> 

Small houses 

designed to 

live large 

Olympic 

insider predicts 

Vancouver 

medalists 

WINTER 2010 

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restaurants & shops | an outdoor amphitheater | art galleries | a 16-screen cinema and scenic river trails 

it all adds up to a one-of-a-kind Central Oregon experience. theoldmill.com

"I have a wild imagination 

and often get lost in it. 

I love singing 

at the top of my lungs 

when I know no one's listening. 

I am addicted to chocolate 

and beautiful men. 

Only my dog, Nico, knows 

my deepest, darkest secrets. 

I dream of being a surf rat 

in Costa Rica. 

But in real life...I dance." . 

Raychel Weiner 

503 222 5538 (503-2BALLET) www.obt.org

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Features 

Winter ’10 

32 

Liquid Courage 

More than 150 years ago, 

Germans Henry Saxer and Henry 

Weinhard laid the foundation for 

today’s brewing juggernaut that 

has Oregon at the pinnacle of 

innovative brewing. The trail to 

the top, however, is strewn with 

fascinating political drama. 

by Bob woodward 

with Laurel Bennett 

40 

Oregon's Greatest 

Ski Adventure 

He left Mt. Hood on a cold 

February day in 1948 with Crater 

Lake on his mind. War veteran and 

skilled trapper Jack Meissner, began 

a 300-mile journey that was ridiculed 

as foolhardy, but sixty-two years later, 

it stands as one of the truly great 

unrepeated outdoor feats 

in Oregon lore. 

by annemarie hamlin 

On the Cover: 

A 28-year-old Jack Meissner in one 

of the rare photos surviving his trek. 

Photograph from Meissner's 

personal scrapbook. 

1859 oregon's magazine winter 2010 7

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Departments 

56 

20 

23 

30 

62 

26 

Winter ’10 


Adventure 

Issue 

47 

Around the State 

14 

18 

20 

Oregon Notebook 

Events around Oregon, spring break resort 

packages, book reviews, and exclusives you 

don’t want to miss at 1859magazine.com 

Sound Off 

Oregon land-use laws dance between public 

good and private property rights. Where do 

you draw the line? 

Road Reconsidered 

A history buff proves Highway 20 is not only 

not the most boring drive in the state, it may 

be one of our most historically and geologically 

rich stretches of road 

Local Habit 

23 

26 

28 

30 

Artist in Residence 

Quantum physics meet metaphysics in the 

sculptures of Portland’s Julian Voss-Andreae 

Top 5 

Off the court and on the town with Portland 

Trail Blazers’ rising star, Brandon Roy 

From Where I Stand 

A ski coach finds the good life in recreationrich 

Government Camp 

What I'm Working On 

NBC and Universal Sports' man on the mountain 

and Bend resident, Steve Porino 

1859MaGaZine.coM 

Join us to discuss your favorite book or to read a review of what we’re 

reading at the 1859 Literary Cafe • Tell us your favorite beer and recreation 

pairings • Cooking with beer • OPB's Steve Amen divulges 

his favorite winter getaways • Win a weekend package 

Oregon Living 

47 

56 

62 

70 

82 

83 

Outd ooregon 

From cheap golf to hut skiing: An insider’s 

stash of winter recreational ideas 

Design 

Reduce, recycle and downsize: Two small 

homes that live large and green 

Home Grown 

Oregon Dungeness crabbers get under way; 

and recipes that will have you craving the sea 

Getaway Guide 

Plan your next Oregon adventure with our 

statewide calendars and travel guides 

Oregon Quotient 

Test your Oregon intelligence, and enter to win 

a getaway weekend in Oregon 

1859's Oregon Map 

A handy map of Oregon with points of 

interest from this issue 

1859 OREGON'S MAGAZINE WINTER 2010 9

Editor’s Letter 

Kevin Max 

Editor, 1859 Oregon's Magazine 

Beer and adventure are central themes 

in this issue, as well as many of our lives. After spending a good 

long autumn in a dirty affair with cyclocross racing, I’m constantly 

reminded that adventure should (almost) always precede beer. 

When the adventure comes first, you amuse yourself. When beer 

takes precedent, you become the amusement of others. 

The features in the winter issue of 1859 strike 

a balance between an incredibly daring ski 

adventure, that stretches the length of the 

state, and a chronicle of the determined people 

and forces that shaped today’s craft brewing 

culture throughout Oregon. 

Winter is not uniform in Oregon. It comes 

early as a white blanket along the spine of the 

Cascades, then later in the form of rain and 

mild temperatures in the Willamette Valley 

and along the coast. In February 1948, winter 

was in full swing when WWII veteran Jack 

Meissner strapped on cross-country skis and 

departed from Mt. Hood for Crater Lake, 300 

miles south. “Oregon’s Greatest Ski Adventure” 

(page 40) documents Meissner’s bold 

journey through the Cascades, in and out of 

storms, across lakes he was somewhat certain 

would not crack under him and into lore as 

Oregon’s most risky backcountry adventure. 

As Meissner discovered, sometimes it’s what 

a man has to do to find the right wife. 

A less conventional, but equally nurturing 

marriage is that of Oregon and craft 

beer. Even while sales of beer’s megaproducers 

slumped the past twelve months, 

the sale of craft beer has increased as we 

strive to support local businesses and pursue 

quality. We explore the early dignitaries 

of Oregon brewing who were blindsided 

by dignified troops of Temperance then 

sidelined by Prohibition before rebuilding 

the foundation for today’s avant garde craft 

beer culture ("Liquid Courage," page 32). 

By now the in-laws have gone back to 

Minnesota—a state which my 7-year-old 

daughter thinks is home to all grandmothers. 

(True, she’s never been to Florida.) 

Cabin fever has set in. Lucky for us, Oregon 

brings a myriad of choices for winter 

getaways. From off-piste hut skiing in the 

Wallowas to off-season golf at Bandon 

Dunes, 1859’s “Destination Oregon: 10 

Cures for Cabin Fever” on page 47 will get 

you going. 

Also, don’t miss Bend resident and 

NBC and Universal Sports commentator 

Steve Porino’s early picks for the medals 

in the Alpine events of the Winter Olympics 

in “What I’m Working On” (page 

30). As NBC’s man on the mountain in 

Vancouver, a former U.S. Ski Team member 

and a World Cup racer, Porino shares 

more detail about these skiers than his 

TV spot allows. 

Finally, all good things end in food and, 

in our case, Dungeness crab. In “Home 

Grown” (page 62), we begin with a glimpse 

of the life of third-generation crabber Corey 

Rock. Oregon is the top producing 

Dungeness crab state and practices the 

highest standards of sustainability. Our 

own Home Grown Chef serves up crab 

sliders in a delicious green curry mayonnaise 

and chef John Newman of Newmans 

at 988 in Cannon Beach dishes his twist 

on crab cakes with lemon aioli and candied 

lemon zest. Save the rest of the lemon 

for your Hefeweisen. Cheers! 

10 1859 OREGON'S MAGAZINE WINTER 2010 

Photo Jon Tapper

sunday mornings = life 

Memories happen at a moment’s notice. At Bend Memorial Clinic we’re here to help you make 

the very most of who you are and how you feel, no matter what your age. Our 99 providers, 

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MtHoodViews.com 

Actual views 

from lots! 

Homes that rival their views 

Editor 

Kevin Max 

Creative Director 

Anouk Tapper 

executive editor 

Sarah Max 

Advertising director 

Ross Johnson 

publisher 

Heather Huston Johnson 

Advertising associates 

Sonja Meixler, Lauren Wilson 

Contributing writers 

Anne Aurand, Laurel Bennett, Cathy Carroll, Lisa Glickman, 

Addie Hahn, Annemarie Hamlin, Lars Svenska, Bob Woodward 

Contributing photographers 

Joni Kabana, Jon Tapper, Paula Watts, Bob Woodward 

Artist sketches 

Paul Harris 

Communications director 

Claudia Johnson 

Special thanks 

Heather Baro, Laurie Fox, Jared Lugo, 

Oregon Public Broadcasting, United Tile 

Published by 

Deschutes Media, LLC 

550 Industrial Way, Suite 24 

Bend, OR 97702 

541.550.7081/fax 541.306.6510 

Subscribe to 1859 Oregon's Magazine 

online at 1859magazine.com 

Send letters to letters@1859magazine.com 

1859 Oregon's Magazine uses all Oregon writers and photographers, 

and is printed on FSC Certified paper from West Linn, Oregon. 

We make local habit. 

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by 

any means, electronically or mechanically, including photocopy, recording or any information storage 

and retrieval system, without the express written permission of Deschutes Media, LLC. Articles and 

photographs appearing in 1859 Oregon's Magazine may not be reproduced in whole or in part without 

the express written consent of the publisher. 1859 Oregon's Magazine and Deschutes Media are not 

responsible for the return of unsolicited materials. The views and opinions expressed in these articles are 

not necessarily those of 1859 Oregon's Magazine, Deschutes Media, or its employees, staff or management.


Notebook 

running y ranCh 

www.runningyranch.com 

Unwind at the relaxing Running Y Lodge 

in southern Oregon’s beautiful Klamath 

Falls area. Enjoy horseback riding, a 

renovated Sandhill spa, hiking and biking 

trails and the nearby ice skating arena. 

Situated along the “Pacific Flyway,” some 

of the best bird-watching happens at the 

Running Y Ranch’s wetlands. 

brasaDa ranCh 

www.brasada.com 

Retreat to the Central Oregon high desert 

with Brasada Ranch’s equestrian center, 

pools, hot tubs and fitness center. Dining 

at Blue Olive restaurant is wonderful with 

its classic Northwest-style salmon, crabs 

and lamb. 

eagle Crest resort 

www.eagle-crest.com 

Hoodoo skiing by day and hot tubs or 

spas by night. The Eagle Crest ski package 

starts at $139 for two ski passes and one 

night’s lodging for two at the Inn at Eagle 

Crest. Two nights lodging in a vacation 

rental and four ski passes start at $418. 

blaCk butte ranCh 

www.blackbutteranch.com 

With an overnight accommodation, get 

one adult lift ticket and up to four kids’ 

Autobahn passes to Hoodoo. Spring golf 

packages start at $129 per person. The 

package includes overnight accommodations 

in a vacation rental, unlimited golf 

with cart, practice balls prior to play and a 

$40 gift card per occupied unit, per night. 

The gift card can be used for dining, merchandise, 

spa, bike rentals or other activities. 

The package runs through June 17. 

P L A N N I N G A H E A D 

Spring Break 

in Cabo San Oregon 

PLACES, RESORTS, RECREATION 

Sunday, March 12 set your 

clock ahead one hour for 

daylight-saving time, then save 

some money by going local for 

Spring Break this year. Here 

are some Oregon resorts that 

would love to have you. 

salishan spa & golF resort 

www.salishan.com 

Done skiing? Winter golf on Oregon’s 

capricious coast at Salishan is a beautiful 

change of scenery. South of Lincoln City 

on an ocean jetty, lies one of Oregon’s 

top-rated destinations for golfers and 

vacationers. If weather is inhospitable, 

there’s a spa, tennis courts, a pool and 

loads of activities for kids. 

sunriver 

www.sunriver-resort.com 

Home to some of the best golfing on 

the planet, Sunriver is also the most fully 

developed vacation resort in Oregon. Get 

three days of skiing at Mt. Bachelor and 

three nights of lodging starting at $119 per 

person per day. Kids ski free and stay free. 

Nearby cross-country skiing and then 

ice skating at the Village Mall. A full Sage 

Springs spa will cure any winter blues. 

wilD horse resort & Casino 

www.wildhorseresort.com 

Add a cultural facet to your Superbowl 

weekend with a stop-over at Pendleton's 

Wild Horse Resort and the Tamástslikt 

Museum’s exhibit, “A Litany of Salmon." 

Of course there’s golf and gambling then 

shopping for your next pair of cowboy 

boots in Pendleton, one of Oregon’s true 

cowboy towns. 

mount baChelor 

village resort 

www.mtbachelorvillage.com 

Dive into the middle of a winter sports 

mecca at Mount Bachelor Village in 

Bend. Lodging deals with Mt. Bachelor 

ski tickets, nearby cross-country skiing 

and downtown Bend. Hiking the adjacent 

Deschutes River Trail is a must. Two-night 

stays include $50 discounts at some of 

Bend’s best breweries, shopping at the 

Old Mill District or skiing at Mt. Bachelor. 

Photo Jon Tapper 

14 1859 OREGON'S MAGAZINE WINTER 2010

Notebook 



Adventure 

Two Yurts: Three Sisters 

backcountry skiing in the three sisters wilderness gets a 

little more cozy. a wood-fired sauna and two wood-stove 

heated 20-foot yurts now sit at the base of tam mcarthur 

rim in the three sisters wilderness, thanks to three sisters 

backcountry (threesistersbackcountry.com). 

WHY GO: The huts are located six miles and 1,000 feet 

above the Three Creeks Sno-park with a variety of terrain 

including open bowls, glades, couloirs, gentle meadows 

and steep chutes. 

AMENITIES: The huts are furnished with padded bunks, 

dining table, wood stove, firewood and maps of local 

terrain. The cooking yurt has a full kitchen, dining and 

lounge area. The kitchen is stocked with dishes, utensils, 

cookware and fuel for the stove. Between the two yurts, 

there is ample room for twelve skiers to spread their gear 

and relax. Choose from self-guided and self-catered options 

or go fully guided and/or catered. 

BONUS: You can request a keg of beer from Sisters’ Three 

Creeks Brewery to be hauled up to the yurt. 

Photo Kevin Grove 

CALENDAR: 

Make a splash around the 

state, make some noise in 

Heppner and then make for 

northeastern Oregon 

GOOD CAUSE 

polar plunge oregon 

Jan. 30-Feb. 26, many locations 

Polar Plunge Oregon promises to take 

your breath away, but not before you 

make a world of difference in raising 

money for Special Olympics Oregon (soor. 

org/plunge). There will be no shortage 

of cold water to dive into in 2010, with 

plunges slated for Portland, Bend and 

three new chilly dips planned for Eugene, 

Corvallis and Medford. Polar Plunge is 

brought to you by Law Enforcement Torch 

Rub and sponsored by local businesses. 

It is open to the public, and all spectators 

are welcome free of charge. Participants 

must raise a minimum of $50 for the 

privilege of taking a wintry dip in an icy 

body of water and will receive a commemorative 

long-sleeve t-shirt and a 

bowl of soup, plus bragging rights. 

C’mon, it’s only water! 

Portland: January 30 

Medford: February 6 

Eugene: February 20 

Corvallis: February 20 

Bend: February 26 

PARADE 

st. patrick’s Day march 

march 12-14, heppner 

Heppner, Oregon is an Irish community 

that makes celebrating its Irish heritage 

an annual tradition. It is always celebrated 

the weekend before St. Patricks Day. In 

2010, the Wee Bit O' Ireland St. Patricks 

Celebration weekend includes family flags 

hung throughout the town, a great green 

parade, sheep dog trials, an Irish Bowling 

competition, plenty of Irish music and entertainment. 

For a full schedule of events, 

call the Heppner Chamber of Commerce 

at 541.676.5536. 

SPORTS 

eagle Cap extreme 

January 14-16, Joseph 

Join some of mushing’s greatest January 

14-16 in Joseph for Oregon’s only 

Iditarod and Yukon Quest qualifier as 

racers launch into the Eagle Cap Extreme. 

Sled dog racers cut through the 

Wallowa and Whitman national forests 

in 100-mile and 200-mile events that 

finish at Ferguson Ridge Ski Area, or 

Fergi. What better time to see the 

Switzerland of Oregon? Bring your skis 

and skates to make it a full weekend of 

skiing at Fergi, then head to Enterprise 

for the outdoor community skating 

rink. Of historical note in the nine-year 

life of this 152-foot by 78-foot rink: 

Schools let out early last January, when 

the Portland Winter Hawks came out to 

skate. The local team, Baja Canada Ehs, 

is the foundation for an interstate league. 

Go Ehs! 

1859 OREGON'S MAGAZINE WINTER 2010 15


Notebook 

1859’s Literary Cafe 

BOOK REVIEW: voracious reader, Claudia hinz, opens 1859’s literary 

Cafe with a review of Dear Husband short stories and Strength in What 

Remains at 1859magazine.com. Discuss these books as well as oregon 

authors under the art section at 1859magazine.com. 

“Worse yet are certain things that have been hidden.” 

But what could possibly be “worse yet” when Lauri Lynn has 

just drowned her four children in the bath tub and lined up their 

bodies to await the police? In so many of these stories, horror 

lurks quite literally underfoot, far more insidious than the “hidden” 

burnt mac and cheese casserole dish tucked below the cellar 

steps, the real mark of Lauri Lynn’s failure as a housewife, 

she confesses. In Dear Husband, Joyce Carol Oates’ subjects are 

the stuff of crime stories: manslaughter, infanticide, abuse, drug 

addiction, and disfiguring injuries. Even in the satirical piece, 

“Suicide by Fitness Center,” Oates plays with the conventions 

of a horror story, invoking a ghostly cat and an unsuspecting 

victim, the overweight man who threatens to cardiac arrest in 

the weight room. 

“There is something about me you should know: a secret.” (“The 

Glazers”). Everyone in these stories has something to hide but in 

“The Glazers,” we understand that not all secrets are equal, not all 

bind or strangle. The fun of reading this collection is the precipitous 

unfolding of these secrets and their ramifications. In “Dear 

Joyce Carol,” secrets are exposed letter by letter in a deranged 

DEAR HUSBAND: STORIES 

BY JOYCE CAROL OATES 

fan’s correspondence with the author, so that we imagine that 

Oates, too, is somehow vulnerable to dangerous secrets. 

What remains when these secrets stand in the open, naked in the 

“stark and cleansing ... winter sunshine” (“Heart Sutra”), is the lushness 

of Oates’ language, a heat you can feel as if she is whispering 

her words against your cheek: the thrift store mink coat “ tenderly… 

folded on a barstool where it seemed to drowse like a pampered beast” 

(“Magda Maria”). Even at the dump, where a frat boy’s body is trashed 

becomes "a living, scenic scape” at the Tioga County landfill, itself, 

“a gouged, ever-shifting landscape of trash-hills, ravines and valleys, 

amid a grinding of dump trucks, bulldozers, cries of swooping and 

darting birds …” (“Landfill”). The police report that details the state 

of the boy’s body also notes the “pelting rain and vivid yellow forsythia 

blooming.” In story after story, Oates lays her victims shoulder to 

shoulder with stunning beauty. 

With more than one hundred published works, Joyce Carol Oates 

truly owns the title “prolific.” Her most recent work may not be for the 

faint-hearted, but readers will swoon into the arms of this masterful 

storyteller because, as Esdra Abraham Meech, the stalker in “Dear 

Joyce Carol” points out, “The Portrait is a beautiful likeness.” 

K E E P I N G I T L O C A L 

Valentine,s Day Chocolates 

OREGON CHOCOLATIERS 

Branson’s Chocolates, Ashland 

Pegasus Gourmet Chocolates, Bend 

Puddin’ River Chocolates, Canby 

Lillie Belle Farm, Central Point 

Fuddy Duddy Fudge, Depoe Bay 

Euphoria Chocolate Company, Eugene 

Cary’s of Oregon, Grants Pass 

Pete’s Gourmet Confections, Medford 

Lulu’s Chocolate, Portland 

Moonstruck Chocolates, Portland 

Extreme Chocolates, Salem 

1859 ONLINE EXCLUSIVES 

steve amen’s 

top winter places 

OPB Field Guide’s Steve Amen walked 

us through his favorite summer spots, 

now he takes us to his top winter 

getaways across Oregon. 

road reconsidered 

The most “boring” road in Oregon— 

Highway 20—becomes the most 

storied in the “Road Reconsidered” on 

page 20. We were only able to provide 

the tip of the iceberg. Dr. Stu Garrett’s 

considerable scholarship plays out in 

long form as a very interesting read as a 

web exclusive at 1859magazine.com. 

oregon 

brewerism 

BEER TOURISM— 

brewerism—is burgeoning as an 

Oregon industry. First read the brave 

history of Oregon breweries in 

“Liquid Courage” on page 32, then 

go to 1859magazine.com and send 

your suggestions for pairing Oregon 

brews and recreation. 

COOKING WITH BEER—Long 

the place of wine to be paired 

with food, now chefs and diners 

alike are waking up to the benefits 

of coupling beers with the right 

foods. Deschutes Brewery sous 

chef James Ludwicki talks cooking 

with beer, béarnaise, and stouts 

and desserts. 



Sound Off 

the debate continues 

Share your thoughts about land-use issues when 

you click on this article at 1859magazine.com 

Land Use vs. Property Rights 

In 1973, the Oregon Legislature established the Oregon Land Use Act, under which all cities and counties 

were required to implement statewide planning goals. Measure 37, passed in 2004, was a partial rebuke 

to statewide planning. Measure 49, passed in 2007, effectively countermanded Measure 37. The debate 

continues. Are Oregon's land-use laws a public good or an infringement on personal property rights? 

Dave Hunnicutt 

President, Oregonians in Action 

(oia.org) 

Both. Any system of zoning and 

planning is going to simultaneously 

provide public benefits and infringe 

upon the rights of private property 

owners. The question is how to 

strike a proper balance between 

these competing interests. 

In terms of finding that elusive 

balance, Oregon’s controversial and unique land-use system has 

performed poorly. 

In 1973, the Oregon legislature vested control over zoning and 

planning in a single state agency, the Land Conservation and 

Development Commission (LCDC). Concentrating the power 

for planning and zoning decisions in one agency at the state level 

is unique to Oregon. Planning throughout the rest of the country 

occurs at the local level, reflecting the characteristics of each 

individual community and region. 

The result is an Oregon system of regulations that is difficult to 

change, slow to respond and overly uniform. This doesn’t work 

in a state as geographically and economically diverse as Oregon. 

A rancher with a large ranch in Grant County needs different 

regulations than a husband and wife with ten acres just outside 

Portland. In most cases, however, the regulations are identical. 

Likewise, re-drawing an urban growth boundary in a large growing 

city should involve much different considerations than with a slowgrowing 

community. In each case, both communities are bound 

by the same set of state laws, which can only be changed by the 

legislature or LCDC. 

This lack of flexibility and the application of one-size-fits-all 

regulations makes it difficult to strike the balance between the rights 

of the property owner and the desires of the public. Oregon would 

be wise to rejoin the other states and return control of planning 

and zoning decisions to local government, with more limited state 

oversight for areas of critical state concern. 

Kevin Gorman 

Executive Director, Friends of the 

Columbia Gorge (gorgefriends.org) 

When Measure 37 was put on the ballot 

in 2004, it was the ideology of property-rights 

infringement that stoked 

the passion of its proponents. They 

wisely put aside their ideology, however, 

and made the case that Measure 

37 was about fair compensation for reduced 

property values. Unfortunately, 

fair-minded Oregonians supported that compensation argument 

without getting the full story. 

Both the compensation and the infringement arguments harbored 

by Measure 37 proponents are built on a house, or rather subdivision, 

of cards. In 2007, the American Lands Institute published an 

analysis that proved that Oregon’s rural landowners have been well 

compensated as a result of the land-use laws. From 1974 – 2004, Oregon’s 

rural landowners reaped nearly $4.9 billion in property tax 

reductions. One of the biggest investments ever made by Oregon 

taxpayers went almost unnoticed because it was funded by so many 

residents with small property tax increases and redistributed to 

farmers and timber operators. Despite the fact that these subsidies 

were provided to offset potential property value losses, Willamette 

Valley farmland values outperformed the S&P 500 during the fortyyear 

period studied. 

As for the argument that Oregon's land-use laws infringe on 

property rights, most Oregonians long ago dismissed the notion 

that anyone has the right to do whatever they want with their 

land. Oregon’s land-use laws saved Oregon farms from becoming 

a relic of the past. Today the farm industry generates more 

than $4 billion in sales annually. The same land-use laws, applied 

in Washington's wine growing region of Klickitat County, saved 

agrarian land for vineyards, which would have been lost to development 

prior to the wine surge. 

It’s time to see Oregon's land-use laws for what they are: 

a public and private good. 


Take a different way home. 

Detour through Asia. 

Swing by the Supreme Court. 

Swim with steelhead in the Umpqua. 

Criss-cross the craters of the moon. 

Get swept away in music, 

books and film. 

Big ideas. Great stories. 

News. Art. Life.



Highway 20: 

Bend to Burns 

A sense of challenge arose in Stu Garrett, a doctor, a historian 

and Bend resident, when he heard one too many times that 

the highway from Bend to Burns was “the most boring road in 

Oregon.” Within three years, Garrett produced a manuscript of 

historical, geological and ecological scholarship milepost-bymilepost 

from Bend to Burns. The events of Highway 20 are 

perhaps Oregon’s most interesting combination of geology, 

and Native American and pioneer culture in one stretch. 

Fact: 

U.S. Route 20 is an east-west 

United States highway. As the 

“0” in its route number implies, 

U.S. 20 is a coast-to-coast route. 

9 

Milepost History 

your taxpayer Dollars, torpedoed 

The Central Oregon Testing Facility (COTEF) 

is located north of the highway just out 

of view. In the early 1980s, during the 

Cold War, the U.S. government built this 

installation. This site was said to be connected 

to a Redmond facility and to the 

Backscatter Radar in Christmas Valley, 50 

miles to the south. This $3 billion radar 

installation was meant to intercept Russian 

bombers flying over Siberia and Alaska to 

attack the U.S. 

badlands volcano 

This volcanic feature is probably 

a “rootless volcano” related to 

the Newberry Volcano complex. 

“Rootless” because it has no direct pipe 

to the crustal source of magma, instead 

likely connected to the Newberry Volcano 

by a shallow lava tube or tubes. It 

has some spectacular ancient junipers 

struggling for centuries on the stark lava. 

If you haven’t hiked here on a clear winter 

day, turn to page 50 for more. 

13 

The Great Basin 

The large, usually dry lake basins of Harney and Lake Counties are the northern-most 

extension of the Great Basin. The Great Basin is part of the Basin and Range province, 

which extends into Mexico. Because there is no river outlet to an ocean, all precipitation 

falling in the Great Basin must evaporate. In cooler wetter times, some of these basins 

held lakes that were more than 300 feet deep. The Great Basin is also an area of thin 

crust, high heat flow from the center of the earth and recent volcanic eruptions. The 

Basin and Range is a part of the Earth’s crust that has been expanding for the last 15 

million years. It may have widened more than 200 miles. It has probably expanded more 

than twice its original width and is still expanding at about 1 centimeter per year. 

eXtended aRticLe 

If anything in this “Road Reconsidered” inspires you to learn more, please visit 1859magazine.com for the 

rest of the historical and geological milestones. If you’re interested in helping preserve Eastern Oregon 

history, contribute to Harney County Historical Museum at burnsmuseum.com. 

22 

newberry volcano 

This volcano to the south is a shieldshaped 

volcano with multiple cinder 

cones on its flanks. The earliest flows 

date to 600,000 years ago. In 1991, this 

area became Oregon’s fourth National 

Monument, protecting its fascinating 

geology, old growth ponderosa pines 

and plant communities. 

henry l. Davis, a sweet pulitzer 

Davis was the only Oregon author 

to win a Pulitzer Prize for litera- 

ture. Awarded in 1936 for his novel, 

Honey in the Horn, it is a story of rough 

characters in early Crook County. 

42 




left: Bannock Indians photographed in the 1870’s by 

William H. Jackson on the Fort Hall Indian Reservation. 

On horseback at the extreme left is Buffalo Horn. Buffalo 

Jim is next to him. BElow: Dead sheep that were 

shot in the Sheepshooter War. The largest sheep massacre 

was near Benjamin Lake in 1903 when 2,400 animals 

were killed. 

Photo credit Smithsonian 

The Bannock-Paiute Indian War of 1878 in Oregon 

The Bannock War, also called Egan’s War, started in 1878 after settlers on Camas Prairie 

in Idaho allowed their hogs to root up and destroy camas fields that were the basis for the 

Bannock Tribe’s sustenance. It was the last in a growing body of transgressions against the 

Bannock Tribes. After leading a revolt against the whites on Camas Prairie, Buffalo Horn 

led the Bannocks from the Fort Hall Reservation to eastern Oregon to join with the Paiute 

tribes. A battle between soldiers and Indians, now led by Paiute Chief Egan, occurred at 

Silver Creek, not far from the present town of Riley, 24 miles west of Burns. Colonel Reuben 

F. Bernard found the Indians encamped at Silver Creek on a rocky flat near the abandoned 

site of the U.S. Army Camp Curry. The Paiutes and Bannocks numbered nearly 2,000. Of 

this group, 700 were warriors. The soldiers were outnumbered, but Bernard led a surprise 

attack on the morning of June 23, 1878. One soldier and an estimated ten to fifty Indians 

were killed, before the Indians fled to the north through Grant County. 

The Sheep Wars 

Between the years of 1896 and 1906, Central 

Oregon was the site of armed conflict 

between sheepherders and cattlemen that 

eventually led to the killing of more than 

10,000 sheep and a number of people. 

These range wars included the burning of 

numerous ranches, sheep sheds, haystacks, 

and the killing of cattle. It began with the 

formation of several associations, whose 

leaders and members remain unknown to 

this day. This led to the largest slaughter of 

sheep that took place in the American West. 

Rabbit Drives 

The Paiute Indians were a resourceful 

people. They utilized everything in their 

environment that could possibly benefit 

them. One strategy for getting meat and 

fur pelts involved driving rabbits into a 

rope fence and clubbing them. The early 

homesteaders copied Paiute methods to 

reduce the hordes of rabbits that would eat 

gardens and crops. 


Local Habit 

23 artist in residence 

26 Brandon roy's Top 5 

28 From Where i stand 

30 What i'm Working on 

Portland's 

Voss-Andreae 

turns physics 

into art >> 

Quantum Man 

Physics finds artistic 

expression in the works 

of Julian Voss-Andreae 

There’s an odd way about the Quantum Man. 

On first approach, he appears a man of substance, 

hunched, deliberate and pushing forward in 

a headwind. A moment later, he inexplicably 

vanishes—taking with him the basic premises of 

reality. Two steps more, and he reappears. 

For quantum physician-turned-artist Julian 

voss-Andreae, Quantum Man is but one of many 

creations that combines the unlikely bedfellows of 

physics and art. “This strong dependence on 

the point of view is intriguing in this context, 

because it reflects a central aspect of quantum 

physics," says voss-Andreae. "‘Reality’ is not 

something that is out there, independent of us, and 

ultimately can't be separated from its observer. 

Photo Joni Kabana 


Local Habit 

artist in residence 

by kevin max 

left: the 12-foot-diameter "Angel of the West" is a human antibody sculpture 

modeled after leonardo da Vinci's "Vitruvian Man." this piece is displayed at 

the Scripps Research Institute in Jupiter, florida. ABOVe: the Quantum Man 

does his disappearing act from Clackamas Community College. A larger version 

of this sculpture is now playing the same tricks on minds and matter in Bellevue, 

Washington. RIGHt: Voss-Andreae holds one of his "Spin family" members, 

which represents the spin path of a fundamental type of matter. 

A PORTLANdER THE PAST NINE yEARS, 

voss-Andreae, 39, grew up in Hamburg, 

Germany. His home was a nurturing environment 

for the arts—his mother, a violinist 

and his father a patron of film, music 

and painting. voss-Andreae’s plans were 

to enter the Art Academy in Berlin and do 

what came natural for a young man raised 

to appreciate the arts. After his civil service 

duty, though, something went incalculably 

wrong for the young artist. He followed 

his poet friend to the Free University 

in Berlin and began taking courses in 

philosophy and physics. This would not sit 

well at home. 

“It is funny, but when I informed my parents 

that I wanted to drop painting and go 

into physics instead, they were really disappointed 

and tried to talk me out of it,” voss- 

Andreae says. “I am guessing that this is a 

pretty atypical reaction for parents.” 

voss-Andreae launched a personal quest to 

explain “a lot of really weird and incomprehensible 

things about relativity and quantum 

physics.” This pursuit defined his next eight 

academic years, including graduate research 

in quantum physics in vienna, Austria. 

But just as his need to explain the ineffable 

drove him into physics, the lack of expression 

for these mysteries ultimately led him back 

to art. “What frustrates me about the rationalistic 

paradigm most physicists live in is its 

incompatibility with the kind of proto-verbal, 

unspeakable questions and topics I am ultimately 

interested in,” he says. “It is about potential, 

possibilities, tendencies, but not nearly 

as vague as this sounds now. Art is really the 

only way for me to give those impossible-toexplain 

things a space.” 

Now, working again in a medium that returns 

him to his parents’ good graces, voss-Andreae 

has become a prolific creator of public art. 

In voss-Andreae’s Portland studio, the 

two fields—science and art—are closer relatives 

than they first appear. “The overlap is 

that both artists and scientists are ultimately 

driven by a sense of awe when beholding 

nature. In both fields, there is a strong sense 

of something miraculous of which you are 

trying to grasp small facets.” 

An 8-foot Quantum Man was on display 

at Clackamas Community College in 

Oregon City, before walking into a private 

collection on Bainbridge Island. In October, 

voss-Andreae unveiled a 10-anda-half-foot-tall 

incarnation of Quantum 

Man at The Bravern building, a mixeduse 

project in Bellevue, Washington. 

Long strands of human antibodies take 

on the appearance of Leonardo da vinci's 

"vitruvian Man" and become the “Angel 

of the West,” a 12-foot-diameter piece in 

front of The Scripps Research Institute in 

Jupiter, Florida. 

Roderick Mackinnon, a Nobel Prize 

winning scientist at Rockefeller University 

in New york City, commissioned voss-Andreae 

in 2006 to create a piece based on his 

research into the structure of an ion channel. 

“When working on a piece, I tend to 

get deeper into the specialized literature,” 

voss-Andreae notes. “And it is this knowledge 

of details that then provides the basis 

for me to receive inspirations that make 

artistic sense.” 

24 1859 oregon's magazine winter 2010

“... both artists and scientists 

are ultimately driven by a sense 

of awe when beholding nature. 

In both fields, there is a strong sense 

of something miraculous of 

which you are trying to grasp 

small facets.” 

julian vOSS-andreae 

Photo Joni Kabana 


Local Habit Brandon Roy's Top 5 

Enter the 

Brandon Roy 

Dynasty 

As a teenager in Seattle, Brandon Roy worked on the docks, 

cleaning shipping containers while quietly nurturing his dream of 

playing college and professional basketball. By 2006, he was bound 

for the NBA, having graduated from University of Washington with 

a bachelor’s degree in American Ethnic Studies. So great was Roy’s 

impact at UW that the university retired his jersey, an act that had 

been done only once before in UW basketball’s 108-season history. 

Roy, 25, is a 6’ 6” guard in his fourth season with the Portland 

Trail Blazers. The Seattle native hit stride last season with a teamleading 

average of 22.6 points per game and was named to the All 

NBA second team, the first Trail Blazer since Clyde Drexler (1991-92) 

to make an All NBA team. By mid November of the current season, 

Roy was already pouring in 27 points per game and laying the 

foundation for a Roy Dynasty with the Trail Blazers. 

5 

Brandon 

Roy's Top 

1. Eating out: Benihana. 

2. Movies: I love movies. I love everything: 

comedies, action, horror—anything but 

romance. 

3. Going to the park with my two kids. 

4. Bowling in Lake Oswego at Players. 

Bowling average: 150, give or take. 

5. Midnight shopping: I just like to grocery 

shop late at night. I love it. No one’s there, 

and I can find what I need a lot quicker. 


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V E I N S P E C I A L T Y C E N T E R

Local Habit 

From Where I Stand 

“I love 

this beautiful 

mountain and 

taking advantage 

of all it has 

to offer.” 

lloyd m. Scroggins 

as told to kevin Max 

Government 

Camp 

I have been in the ski industry 

since I was 8. My three older brothers and 

I started ski racing on Mount Hood when 

we were very young. When I was done with 

my ski racing career at age 22, I coached at 

Crystal Mountain, Washington and fished 

in Alaska for twelve years, before deciding 

to come back to Oregon to be closer to family. 

It was then that I started coaching the 

junior ski racing team for the Multnomah 

Athletic Club. That is mainly what brought 

me to Government Camp twelve years ago. 

Through coaching, I have had the chance 

to meet great people, including my business 

partner, William Berman. Together 

we have built townhomes in Government 

Camp, the Tamarack Lodge, and currently 

own 9 acres of land, where we’re building a 

subdivision called Tyrolean Meadows. 

Government Camp is a quiet little village, 

where we help each other. My wife, 

Carla, and I love having peace of mind in 

raising our 7-month-old son, Liam, here. 

We live close to work and there is no 

crime and no traffic. There are a lot of great 

things to do year-round. 

We have great restaurants in town, such 

as the Huckleberry Inn, which serves an 

excellent All-American menu and is family 

Who: 

Lloyd M. Scroggins, 46 

Multnomah Athletic Club ski coach 

and builder 

Local Favorites: 

Eat: The Huckleberry Inn 

Drink: Charlie's Mountain View 

Play: Mountain biking and summer skiing 

friendly; the Mt. Hood Brewery at the Ice 

Axe Grill, for locally brewed beer, a nice 

dinner and a ball game; and the tavernstyle 

Charlie’s Mountain View—a tradition 

for the Government Camp locals. 

For those who thought that skiing was 

only a winter activity, Mount Hood proves 

you wrong. Mount Hood is the only ski 

area in North America that offers skiing 

year-round. Several clubs from around 

the world come up to Mount Hood during 

the summer for ski training camps, 

which makes our town quite busy even 

in the summer months. For nature-lovers 

like my wife, hiking and mountain biking 

are big during the summer months up 

here. There is a lot of great wildlife, and 

lots of terrain for beginners, intermediate 

or advanced bikers. 

Between coaching ski racing for the 

Multnomah Athletic Club, building homes 

in Tyrolean Meadows, and enjoying my 

family, I love this beautiful mountain and 

taking advantage of all it has to offer. 


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Local Habit 

What i'm Working on 

interview by larS SvenSka 

photo by PaUla WaTTS 

The Analytical Voice 

of Olympic Skiing 

As the Alpine start-house reporter for the 2010 Winter 

Olympics, Porino boasts, he has NBC’s highest post at the 

Olympic Games—typically around 10,000 feet. 

Q 

A 

A Bend resident since 1999, Steve Porino, 

43, was raised primarily outside Chicago, 

otherwise Connecticut, Vermont, 

Colorado, California, Utah and Oregon. 

His father, who grew up ski racing in Italy 

and Switzerland, passed that passion to 

his four kids. After graduating from the 

steeps of Illinois’ Wilmot Mountain— 

vertical drop 256—Porino took up at 

Vermont’s Burke Mountain Academy, 

where his heritage played out on longer 

and steeper runs. Porino raced for the U.S. 

Ski Team from 1988–1992 and two years 

on the World Cup. After racing, he began 

a career in broadcast that spans sideline 

reporter with NBC, to play-by-play and 

analyst with Versus and Universal Sports. 

What was a typical ski season like on the 

World Cup circuit? We scheduled around 

50 to 60 days of on-snow training before the 

racing season, which runs from November to 

March, mostly in Europe. By summer, it was 

Chile, Argentina and New Zealand. By fall, 

it was Alpine glaciers and Rocky Mountains. 

All of that amounted to less than an hour of 

in-motion, downhill-specific training. you 

learned a lot about focus and imagery. The 

beauty of downhill racing is that snowfall 

can easily delay an event. So either you 

are skiing powder in the Alps, or racing 

down them at 80 mph. It’s a good life, 

even before you touch on the social and 

cultural experience. 

What’s the difference between World 

Cup and olympic races? No one likes to 

hear this, but the straight facts are that an 

Olympic medal is easier to win than a World 

Cup. A nation can field as many as eleven 

athletes in a World Cup, and if you are, say, 

Austria, more than half of those skiers could 

win. The Olympic field is limited to four 

per nation. But that discounts entirely the 

psychological component of this once-infour-years 

chance at fame. The value placed 

on an Olympic versus World Cup medal is 

so much greater in the U.S. than in Europe 

that it defies comparison. Interestingly, save 

for the Bode Miller debacle of 2006, when 

his 22 previous World Cup wins led to zero 

Olympic medals, Americans have shown 

to be almost four times more likely to win 


What I'm Working On 

Local Habit 

an Olympic rather than World Cup medal. 

Historically, the U.S. has had limited success 

on the forty or so World Cup races held each 

year, but they show up come Games time. 

Washington’s Debbie Armstrong never won 

a World Cup race, but she won an Olympic 

gold in 1984. The same year, Gresham, 

Oregon resident Bill Johnson won his 

downhill gold medal after only four career 

World Cup starts, though one was a win. He 

added two more victories that year and then 

disappeared into the ether. In 2006, two 

21-year-old Americans Ted Ligety and Julia 

Mancuso won Olympic Gold medals having 

never won a World Cup race. 

What can you tell us about the downhill 

event that doesn’t translate well to TV? 

Even the most sophisticated, high-speed, 

high-def cameras steal so much of the speed, 

pitch and peril from downhill racing. To 

stand on the sideline as a racer passes at 70 

or 80 mph is a thunderous and breathtaking 

experience that invariably makes me 

wonder: What the hell was I ever thinking? 

The killer is the panning camera. It takes a 

skier traveling around 100 feet per second 

and suspends him, almost static, in the 

middle of your screen. It flattens pitches that 

are frequently much steeper than your roof, 

and washes out surfaces so hard the skis' 

edges may penetrate as little as 5 millimeters 

into its ice. That’s hanging by a thread when 

you consider the forces can jump briefly 

over 10 g's (or more than a ton for the 

average-sized downhiller). On the upside, 

today’s high-speed cameras do get closer to 

the truth. They can slow down the action 

to where you see a fully contracted thigh 

bounced around like a bag of water, and 

watch how rigid skis writhe over the snow. 

What are your favorite places to ski? I find 

it’s the moment more than the location that 

makes the most lasting impressions. Like 

the summer of 1988. We went to train in 

Las Lenas, Argentina. We flew to the middle 

of nowhere then drove another two hours. 

Then we got 9 feet of snow in three days. 

So the powder was ours and ours alone. As 

with the people, there was also a wonderful 

scarcity of boundaries, laws, and, frankly, 

safety. That to me is the true mountain 

experience. It means you can ski anywhere, 

and whatever happens is both your 

adventure and your fault. The arid snow of 

the Andes stayed light for days. On day one, I 

learned to do a backflip on skis. By day three, 

it was a double back. We spent evenings 

jumping from the hotel’s third story into the 

snow … because no one stopped us. 

For sheer ambiance, beauty and history, there 

is no place like Wengen, Switzerland. You 

take a 100-year-old cog railway to a little town 

scribed into a mountain that faces the Eiger, 

Mönch and Jungfrau. No cars are allowed. 

Transport is by foot and, if you’re a kinder, 

by sled. Restaurant pubs perched high on the 

mountain stay open late, and they’ll gladly 

rent you a sled to careen home on. 

What are your expectations for the 

US Ski Team for the Winter Olympics? 

Miller is back. I don’t think he’s as potent 

in all disciplines, but I have to imagine he’ll 

be more disciplined with his nocturnal 

choices. If so, he’s got medal potential in 

four of five disciplines. He’ll be helped by 

the distraction Lindsey Vonn will provide. 

She will be America’s media darling going 

into Vancouver. She was, without a doubt, 

What holds my 

interest is that 

Miller only started 

training in earnest in 

September. He's going 

to enter Vancouver 

with a freshness he's 

never experienced. 

the best all around skier in the world last 

year and is the best American female ever. 

She is every bit as dominant as Miller was 

in his prime, but more consistent. This is a 

skier who has set a new standard, training 

eight hours a day. After winning the 

World Championship downhill last year in 

France, she gracefully maneuvered through 

interviews and appearances that lasted until 

9 p.m. At that time, she turned to me and 

politely excused herself. She had ninety 

minutes of training to get in before bed. Ted 

Ligety, gold medal winner in 2006, also has 

the nerve for big races. If he continues the 

momentum he’s shown in the last two years, 

he’ll be a favorite in giant slalom and an 

outside hope in slalom. 

The flighty Julia Mancuso, the other 

American gold medalist from 2006, is more 

of a wild card. If she commits herself, she has 

the talent for two medals. 

There’s also a strong contingent of men on 

the speed side: Marco Sullivan, Steve Nyman, 

Scott Macartney (Bellevue, WA). All of them 

have a chance at a medal. 

What’s our medal count for alpine skiing 

at the end of the Vancouver Winter 

Olympics? I said this four years ago (and was 

wrong) but will say it with greater conviction 

now. This team has the highest medal 

potential of any the U.S. has fielded. I’m 

saying seven medals. The record is five from 

1984. Vonn: two gold, one other. Miller: one 

gold, one other. Ligety: one medal. Mancuso, 

Sullivan, Nyman, Macartney are good for 

number seven. 

Who might surprise us on the podium in 

Vancouver? One name you won’t hear much, 

but should, is Carlo Janka of Switzerland. 

He’s a young talent with absolute nerves of 

steel. I first noticed his talent two years ago at 

the Olympic venue. He was 21, and won the 

second run of giant slalom. 

Last year he won a few races under great 

pressure. Bode Miller hooked a gate to 

disqualify him from winning the combined 

downhill/slalom at the 2006 Torino Olympics. 

Will we see vintage Miller in Vancouver? 

I don’t think we’ll see the vintage slalom 

skiing Miller inspired us with in the early 

2000s. I think we could see it everywhere 

else. What holds my interest is that 

Miller only started training in earnest in 

September. He’s going to enter Vancouver 

with a freshness he’s never experienced. 


32 1859 OREGON'S MAGAZINE winter 2010 

The Brave History 

of Brewing’s Triumph 

Over Time

TO THE CASUAL BEER ENTHUSIAST— 

aren’t we all?—the modern culture of hip brewpubs 

across Oregon serving some of the world’s best craft 

beers appears to be a relatively recent phenomenon 

led by such brewers as Ninkasi Brewing in Eugene, 

Deschutes Brewery in Bend, Widmer Brothers Brewing in 

Portland and the ubiquitous McMenamins establishments. 

Today Oregon is at the vanguard for craft brewing. 

The state counts more than 90 breweries, leads the 

nation in microbeer drinkers, has one of two colleges 

in the country that condones brewing beer as an 

academic pursuit, displays a trophy case with too 

many top medals at the Great American Beer Festival 

to mention and is the second leading hops producer 

in the country. Recently, even while the economy 

has been contracting, craft brewing in Oregon has 

been expanding. As Oregonians strive for a locallydriven 

food model, the state has become the largest 

commercial market for locally crafted beers. In 2009 

alone, the state added ten new breweries. 

While today’s aficionados drink in the benefits of this 

trend, each sip of this finely brewed culture in Oregon 

has been more than 150 years in the making. 

The preceding century and a half was a hell of a fight. 

1859 OregOn's magazIne winter 2010 33

Clockwise from left: McMenamins, one of the first in craft 

brewing, puts as much taste in its renovated properties as its 

beers. Cascade Brewery brewmaster Ron Gansberg squeezes fruit 

into a barrel for Raccoon Lodge. Oregon is the second largest hop 

producer in the U.S. behind Washington. Pelican Brewery opened 

doors to beach-goers of Pacific City in 1996. 

written by Bob Woodward 

with Laurel Bennett 

Regarding the Henrys: The German Brewers 

Oregon’s brewing fairy tale begins a long time ago in the loose confederation 

of states now known as Germany. Henry Saxer, a German 

immigrant, was first to the trade in the Oregon Territory, establishing 

Liberty Brewery in Portland in 1852. But it was his successor, 

Henry Weinhard, who would become the icon of Oregon beer for 

the next hundred years. 

The same year that Saxer opened Liberty Brewery, the 22-year-old 

Weinhard, had just arrived in America by way of Ellis Island. Had 

the French been precisely 34 years more punctual in their gifting of 

the Statue of Liberty, the young German 

might have envisioned a bottle of Henry 

Weinhard’s beer, instead of a torch, atop 

Lady Luck’s outstretched arm. 

Born in the Kingdom of Württemberg 

and apprenticed to the brewing trade 

in Stuttgart, Weinhard, in 1852, emigrated 

into America’s political foreplay 

of the Civil War. New York City was no 

civilized environment in which to ply his 

brewing skills. Weinhard began brewing 

his way westward, refining his craft 

along the way—first in Philadelphia, then 

Cleveland and finally out to Fort Vancouver, 

Washington. 

The Pacific Northwest must have appeared 

to Weinhard as a missive sent 

from an all-knowing all-loving, all-brewing 

deity. Farmers were already growing 

hops in the verdant valleys of the Oregon 

Territory, and a thirsty throng of hearty 

dock workers, lumbermen and laborers lived in nearby Portland, 

where the only brewer in town was fellow German, Henry Saxer. 

Weinhard crossed the Columbia to Portland in 1855 and partnered 

with George Bottler to have a go at competing with Saxer. 

Historical accounts say that Weinhard was disappointed with the 

growth of the operations and retreated to the Columbia Brewery at 

Fort Vancouver. 

Shortly thereafter, Weinhard returned to Portland with more cash 

“What Widmer and 

BridgePort and the rest 

brought to the scene 

was that most blessed of 

all benedictions: fresh 

ale, brewed right there 

right now. Overnight, 

Portland became the 

beer city in America.” 

jonathan nicholas, 

former Oregonian columnist 

and a bolder strategy—to buy out his former partner and Saxer to 

become the local monopoly on beer. Bold plans begat bold results. 

Soon Weinhard was exporting beer to Asia and across the States. By 

1875, his production had grown to more than 40,000 barrels from 

just 2,000 when he re-acquired his brewery. 

The Bonnet Brigade: Pre-prohibition 

While Weinhard was busy making the Pacific Northwest hospitable 

for beer drinkers, women with resolve in their bonnets were plotting 

countermeasures. In an 1883 meeting at Portland’s First M.E. 

Church, just blocks away from Weinhard’s 

brewing empire on Burnside Avenue, pious 

prohibitionists-to-be were organizing 

what would become the Oregon Woman’s 

Christian Temperance Union. They took 

heart in the words of the guest speaker, 

Frances E. Willard, the president of the 

national chapter of the Woman’s Christian 

Temperance Union: 

Years from now, when your conventions 

shall be deemed great 

events, and your anniversaries shall 

bring together its hundreds of thousands, 

you will look back to these 

words and thoughts and say, `those 

women struck the keynote of success.’ 

(Twenty Eventful Years of the Oregon’s 

Woman’s Christian Temperance Union; 

Gotshall Printing Company, 1904) 

If brewers, contemporary and past, 

could wipe any day from history, it would 

undoubtedly be this one. That day, motivated by vocation and now 

strengthened by organization, women from all parts of the state 

rushed forth from the pews of the Taylor Street church under the banner 

of the Oregon Woman’s Christian Temperance Union—a crack 

outfit that would soon deliver alcohol’s kill-vehicle: Prohibition. 

The Temperance Union’s self-described state song, sent its soldiers 

across the state with this tender tune: 


Historic Hops Growers: This photo 

(circa 1900) captures the Parrett 

family on their farm outside 

of Wilsonville. RIGHT: Pelican 

Brewing's brewer. 

A temperance state we 

yet shall call it, Oregon— 

land of martyr’s [sic] tears. 

Oregon, saved for God and 

country, shall banish saloons 

a thousand years. 

Meanwhile Henry Weinhard was establishing himself as a formidable 

man of business with a civic mind. His operations were 

expanding and he had become a patron of Portland. Outside of 

Portland, the Temperance troops were running counties dry while 

installing water fountains, obviating the excuse of the menfolk who 

needed to duck into the saloon “just for a drink of water.” 

In 1888, perhaps as a futile mockery of the encroaching prohibitionists, 

Weinhard offered to pump beer into the Skidmore Fountain, 

on its opening day, a stunt for which he is well remembered 

today. City officials politely declined. The Skidmore Fountain stands 

today at SW Ankeny and First Streets. 

Oregon, we’re taught, is a state of pioneers. It embraces progressive 

technology, progressive thought, progressive lifestyles and progressive 

politics. To the detriment of brewers and the bewilderment 

of their consumers, Oregon raced into prohibition in 1915—smack 

dab in the middle of a period known as the Progressive Era. Oregon’s 

prohibition would begin four years before the national Prohibition 

launched with a capital P. 

Prohibition for the full country began in 1919, gave rise to black 

markets, bootlegging, glorified gangsters and even some teetotaling. 

In a young and independent 

America, the 18 th 

Amendment of Prohibition 

was not long lived. 

For ensuing years, 

brewers turned out soda 

and specialty drinks to stay afloat. The cash crop hop growers in 

Oregon leveraged other farming operations but continued to grow 

and sell hops for medicinal elixirs. 

To survive Prohibition, Weinhard’s Brewery merged with Portland 

Brewing Company’s Arnold Blitz in 1928, eventually making 

Blitz-Weinhard beer. Henry’s 12 th Street Tavern between Burnside 

and Couch streets in northwest Portland now resides where the 

iconic brewery once stood. 

Modern presidential pundits point to the New Deal and negotiating 

a World War as F.D.R.’s greatest feats. Many Oregonians—especially 

those who have read this far—might argue, however, that 

his most influential legacy was the repeal of Prohibition in 1932 and 

these words: “I think this would be a good time for a beer.” 

Making of the Oregon Brewpub Culture 

Over the next fifty years, the brewing industry staggered to its feet 

again, but today’s variety of craft beers and brewpubs were still years off. 

Portlander and longtime Horse Brass Pub owner, Don Younger, 

recalls the scene. “Five breweries were the players: Blitz Weinhard, 

Olympia, Rainier, Lucky Lager and Heidelberg,” Younger says. “All 

THE EARLY YEARS 

1852 Henry Saxer opens Liberty Brewery, 

Oregon’s first. Henry Weinhard immigrates to 

New York from Germany. 

1856 Weinhard buys out Saxer and creates 

Henry Weinhard’s, a brewery that continued 

for more than 140 years. 

1883 Oregon Woman’s Christian Temperance 

Union is established at a meeting at Portland’s 

First M.E. Church on Taylor Street. 

1915 Oregon Legislature enacts prohibition. 

1919 U.S. enacts the 18th Amendment: 

Prohibition. 

1928 Weinhard’s merges with Portland Brewing 

Company to form Blitz-Weinhard. 

1932 F.D.R. signs the repeal of Prohibition. 

THE MODERN ERA 

1974 Mike McMenamin and friends open the 

Produce Row Café in southeast Portland. The 

bar eschews any association with Northwest’s 

major breweries of the day (Blitz-Weinhard, 

Rainier and Olympia) 

in favor of serving tasty 

imports. 

1979 Chuck Coury opens 

The Cartwright on SE 

Hawthorne Avenue. It 

serves locally made Portland 

beer. 

While traveling in 

Germany and visiting 

relatives, Rob Widmer 

Weinhard Brewery building 1892 

comes to appreciate good beer and its place 

in culture. On returning to Portland, he enlists 

his brother to help him start a brewery. 

1983 Brian and Mike McMenamin open The 

Barley Mill pub on SE 

Hawthorne, the second in 

a network of 56 brewpubs 

throughout Oregon, 

Washington. 

1984 Noted Oregon 

winemakers Richard and 

Nancy Ponzi get into 

brewing beer opening the 

Columbia River Brewery 

(later renamed Bridge- 

Port) in the historic 1886 Portland Cordage 

Company rope-making factory in northwest 

Portland. 

Art Larrance and Fred Bowman open 

Portland Brewing. 

1985 Oregon law is changed, allowing beer to 

be made at the same location where it is sold. 

The Mcenamin brothers open the Hillsdale 

Brewery and Public House, the first establishment 

in Oregon since 1916 to make and serve 

beer on its premises. 

1986 Widmer introduces its Hefeweizen 

wheat beer that becomes an instant classic. 

1987 The McMenamin brothers open the 


ars had only one draught. All 

drinkers were fiercely brand 

loyal. And all swore their beer 

was superior. Looking back 

now, I’m sure if I tasted them 

all side by side, I wouldn’t 

be able to tell the difference. It was very primitive. No wine, no 

windows —it was horrible. It was dirty and rough around the edges.” 

By the 1970s, a critical shift in Oregon culture laid the foundation 

for the ensuing decades of growth in the industry—provincialism. Pub 

owners and publicans collectively gave the finger to the massive megabrewers 

while promoting locally made lagers, ales, bitters and stouts. 

According to modern legend, the craft beer, or microbeer, brewing 

movement has its origins in Great Britain where, in the early 

1970s, younger pub owners began canceling long-standing contracts 

with megabreweries and started brewing their own. Their incentive 

was to provide their patrons with tastier beers and a wider variety. 

That same spirit moved a small number of Portland beer aficionados, 

who, in the late ‘70s, set a course to change the way 

beer was produced and dispensed in and around Portland. 

Unlike the burgeoning microbrewing culture in California and 

Washington, the Portland movement centered on comfortable public 

houses. “People began to snub generic, processed and multinational 

corporate products in favor of local handcrafted creations,” 

notes McMenemins Brewery historian Tim Hills. 

Portland had always been a town with great bars and pubs, Jim 

Parker of the Oregon Brewers 

Guild, observes. Now those 

pubs and bars were serving 

customers brews of their own 

creation, or those of other local 

craft brewers. 

In 1979, the first true Portland microbrew pub came into being—The 

Cartwright on Hawthorne Avenue. It lasted for only three 

years, just long enough to whet the appetite of local beer lovers for 

handcrafted brews. Soon more microbrew pubs like The Fulton, 

BridgePort, Produce Row, Portland Brewing’s Taproom, Captain 

Ankeny’s Well, Rubin’s Gulch Café, Widmer’s Taproom and Horse 

Brass Pub were serving pints that were brewed elsewhere. 

Brewers and beer-drinkers of yore would note 1883—the year that 

the Temperance bees buzzed out of their meeting and fomented 

prohibition—as one of the worst years of the century. If barley and 

hops had sustained their lives a hundred years more, they would 

claim 1985 as one of the best years for beer culture in Oregon. 

It wasn’t until 1985 that a small motivated group of brewers pushed 

new laws through the Oregon Legislature that allowed the combination 

of brewing and retail sales, a critical piece of law that shapes 

today’s industry. “It was illegal to have retail and manufacturing on 

the same premise,” notes Brian McMenamin, who with his brother, 

Michael, owns the legendary McMenamins chain of brewpubs and 

lodging facilities. “So it was impossible to make beer and sell it in a 

restaurant that was on the same premises.” 

Mission Theater serving up big-screen movies 

and microbrews. 

Microbrewing heads down the Columbia 

River Gorge to Hood River where the Full Sail 

Brewing Company sets up operations in a 

refurbished cannery. 

1988 Gary Fish takes the microbrewing idea 

over the Cascades to Central Oregon opening 

the Deschutes Brewery and Public House in 

downtown Bend. 

Avid home brewer, Jeff Schultz, former 

University of Oregon fraternity brothers Jack 

Joyce and Bob Woodell join Rob Strasser to 

form Rogue Ales on the banks of Lithia Creek 

in downtown Ashland. 

1989 Rogue Ales opens a new location in 

Newport, Oregon, bringing microbrewing to 

the Oregon coast. 

1990 Hand-crafted brews 

and a brewpub make the 

Eugene scene at the Steelhead 

Brewing Company. 

1991 The Mount Hood 

Brewing Company and 

its Ice Axe Grill open in 

Government Camp the 

shadow of Mount Hood. 

Brian and Mike McMenamin 

1996 Oregon’s surfers’ paradise, Pacific City, 

welcomes the Pelican Pub and Brewery to a 

beachside location at Cape Kiwanda. 

1997 Oregon’s mountainous 

northeast corner gets 

its first pub and brewery—Terminal 

Gravity 

Brewing in Enterprise. 

1998 Make it one more 

brewpub and brewer in 

the northeastern part of 

the state as Barley Brown’s 

opens in Baker City. 

2005 Roots Organic Brewing Company is 

certified as the first organic brewer in Oregon. 

2006 Named for the Sumari goddess of 

brewing, Ninkasi Brewing Company opens in 

Eugene. By 2009, the brewery is ranked eighth 

(in terms of barrels produced annually) in the 

state. 

2008 Sisters, Oregon gets its first brewery— 

Three Creeks Brewery. 

2009 Ten new breweries open in Oregon. 


left: McMenamins, where fun, history and beer play 

nicely. above: The Fulton Pub in Portland circa 1989—one 

of the early microbrew pubs. right: Brewers from Silver 

Moon Brewery Travis West and Evan Taylor sport medals 

from the American Beer Awards. 

The McMenamin brothers, together with a group of Portlandarea 

brewers including: Richard and Nancy Ponzi of Columbia 

River Brewing (now BridgePort Brewing); Art Larrance and Fred 

Bowman of Portland Brewing; Kurt and Rob Widmer, of Widmer 

Brothers Brewing, all decided to write a bill that would change 

the law in Oregon. 

“Our bill kept getting killed and killed and killed,” Mike Mc- 

Menamin recalls. “Finally it was attached to a bill to allow Coors 

to sell their beer in Oregon. We thought this was the death knell 

for us, but, to our amazement, the bill cruised through.” 

The law had the effect of manifest destiny across Oregon 

with innovation and collaboration at its heart. New brewpubs 

sprang up and the brewing craft was once again in high 

demand in Oregon. In the ensuing years, stouts sprouted in 

Newport, porters surfaced in Portland and, soon, pale ales 

took on prominence in Bend. 

Rob Widmer recalls the genesis for one of Oregon’s food groups, 

Widmer Hefeweisen, with this story: “We started with an Altbier, 

which is still a beer-geek’s favorite, but was a bit too much 

for most beer drinkers at the time. We needed something more 

approachable and wanted to do it in a German style, which was 

the niche we were carving out. We knew the Germans brewed 

a blond wheat beer, and we set out to make our own using our 

Altbier yeast.” 

The result was a cloudy unfiltered Widmer Hefeweizen that 

was puzzling to the average consumer. Fear of the unknown lay 

between that murkiness and the beer’s commercial success. 

“But one night, when the Hefeweizen was new at the Dublin 

Pub, the owner, Carl Simpson, said to me, ‘Watch this,’” Widmer 

recalls. Simpson then poured pints of the Hefeweizen and put 

them on a tray garnished with cut lemon slices. He handed the 

tray to a waitress, who paraded around the pub with the tray and 

its intriguing residents. “By 11 that night, everyone in the pub 

was drinking the Hefeweizen, and the word of how good it was 

b y t h e n u m b e r s 

Total economic impact from the beer industry on Oregon’s 

economy: $2.25 billion. 

Over the last five years, Oregon breweries created 2,300 jobs. 

Over the last five years, Oregon-brewed beer consumed in 

Oregon rose to 12% from 9.9%. 

Oregon is the second largest producer of craft beer in the U.S. 

About 12% of the total beer consumed in Oregon in 2008 was 

Oregon craft beer- the highest percentage of local craft beer 

consumption in the country. The national average for total 

craft beer consumption by volume is 4%. 

Oregon is the second largest hop-growing state in the country. 

There are currently 73 brewing companies, operating 96 

brewing facilities in Oregon. 

There are 30 breweries operating in Portland, more than any 

other city in the world. 

The Portland metro area is the largest craft brewing market 

in the US. 

Source: Oregon Brewers Guild 


spread like wildfire through the pub and restaurant community 

the following morning,” Widmer summons triumphantly. 

"In the mid-`80s, Portland already had a rich pub culture..." 

former Oregonian columnist, Jonathan Nicholas, observes. 

"What Widmer and BridgePort and the rest brought to the 

scene was that most blessed of all benedictions: fresh ale, 

brewed right there right now. Overnight, Portland became the 

beer city in America. And now guys in San Diego sit poolside, 

idly twirl the parasols in their girlie lagers, and gaze out across 

the ocean wondering how much fun it might be to live, and 

drink beer, in Portland.” 

Such was the call of Californian, Gary Fish, who encountered 

the right environment in Bend in 1988 to execute his brewpub 

concept, Deschutes Public House. The small sleepy mountain 

town was just beginning to shake off a sluggish ‘80s economy. 

“People didn’t know what to make of us,” says Fish of the first 

patrons at the Bend brewpub. “The reason why this product 

took hold in Oregon is the independent spirit of Oregonians and 

creative, innovative brewers.” 

Legislation and a growing provincialism for locally crafted 

beers soon turned the microbrewer of Mirror Pond Pale Ale and 

Monkey Face Porter in obscure Bend, Oregon into a macro success, 

as the state’s largest brewer by barrel count. 

“I was lucky that we could hire John Harris from Mc- 

Menamins,” says Fish. “He was able to call them and 

ask questions, and that was a terrific benefit for us.” 

Breweries now number more than ninety in Oregon, with ten 

new brewpubs arriving in 2009 alone. 

Oregon Microbreweries 

Portland area 

4th Street Brewing 

5th Quadrant 

Ambacht Brewing 

Amnesia Brewing 

BridgePort Brewing 

Cascade Brewing & Raccoon Lodge 

Hair of The Dog Brewing 

Hopworks Urban Brewery 

Kona Brewery 

Laurelwood Public House & Brewery 

Lucky Labrador Brewing 

Mac’s Taproom & Pyramid Brewing 

McMenamins 

New Old Lompoc Brewery 

Old Market Brewery 

Rock Bottom Brewery 

Roots Organic Brewing 

The Broadway Brewery 

Ram Restaurant & Brewery 

Upright Brewing 

Vertigo Brewing 

Red Hook Ale Brewery/ 

Widmer Brothers Brewing 

Eastern Oregon 

Beer Valley Brewing 

Terminal Gravity Brewery 

Coast 

Astoria Brewing 

Fort George Brewing 

Pelican Pub and Brewery 

Rogue Ales 

Central Oregon 

10 Barrel Brewing 

Bend Brewing Company 

Cascade Lakes Brewing 

Deschutes Brewery 

Silver Moon Brewing 

Three Creeks Brewing 

Mt. Hood/The Gorge 

Double Mountain Brewing 

Full Sail Brewing 

Mount Hood Brewing 

Willamette Valley 

Big Horn Brewing 

Block 15 

Calapooia Brewing 

Eugene City Brewing 

Golden Valley Brewing 

Heater Allen Brewery 

Hop Valley Brewing 

Ninkasi Brewing 

Oakshire Brewing 

Oregon Trail Brewing 

Seven Brides Brewing 

Steelhead Brewing 

The One Horse Tavern Brewing 

Southern Oregon 

Caldera Brewing 

Southern Oregon Brewing 

Standing Stone Brewing 

Wild River Brewing & Pizza 


“... We congratulate 

Mr. Meissner on his 

fortitude and fitness. 

But don,t ask us of what 

value it is. Of what value 

is any record of the sort? 

You cannot appraise 

,em, but nevertheless 

they attest much to the 

gallantry, and wonder, 

and glory of living.” 

FROM SKI TRACKS IN SNOW, 

THE OREGONIAN, APRIL 12, 1948 

This original image appeared in the oregonian and 

in meissner's scrapbook, “This adventure Belongs to 

Jack meissner,” assembled by his mother. 

40 1859 OregOn's OREGON'S magazIne 

MAGAZINE winter2010

Oregon’s Greatest 

Ski Adventure 

An unrepeated 300-mile push from Mt. Hood to Crater Lake 

belongs to Jack Meissner 

written by Annemarie Hamlin 

photos from Meissner's scrapbook 

CARRYING A TENT, A SLEEPING BAG and a heavy backpack, 

John Richard “Jack” Meissner strapped on his skis on a February 

afternoon in 1948 and began a 300-mile trek from Mt. Hood, in the 

northern part of the state, to Crater Lake in the south. He would be the 

first person to make the journey on cross-country skis. And no one 

has repeated the trip since, according to his daughter, Jane, a Central 

Oregon naturalist and retired ski and hiking instructor. Perhaps no 

one since then has been as equipped as Jack to take up the challenge. 

Meissner grew up among people who taught him carpentry and 

mechanics, skills that complemented his natural resourcefulness 

and love of the outdoors. When he was a young boy, Jack watched 

his father build the family’s first house in Portland, and later learned 

mechanical skills from his stepfather, a mechanical genius who could 

fix anything. Even before he started high school, Jack earned money 

during the summers by cutting wood. He was also an athlete, strong 

in football and any other sport he decided to take 

up, according to his best friend from high school. 

During World War II, Meissner served in the 

Air Force as an airplane mechanic in Europe and 

Northern Africa. Once home from the war, he 

and his parents bought the marina at Shelter Cove 

on Odell Lake. Jack spent his summers repairing 

boats and homes and his winters trapping and 

teaching himself to ski. He grew adept at building 

snow caves for shelter and fires for warmth, and he 

spent several weeks at a time trekking through the 

snowy backcountry near Odell Lake tending to 

his traps. Skiing had gained in popularity after the war, and Meissner 

discovered a particular talent for the sport and a yearning to explore. 

Once Meissner announced his trip, the newspapers followed his 

story closely. Reports by The Oregonian and the Bend Bulletin that 

year, quote Meissner as naming several different motivations for making 

the trip. He wanted to bring attention to the sport of cross-country 

skiing, he wanted to place markers along the Skyline trail for other 

skiers to follow, and he just simply wanted to prove to himself that he 

could do it. 

Sixty years later, Meissner’s memory of his motivation for making 

the trip was that he hoped to make some money. The financial goal 

didn’t work out, he said, shortly before his death November 15, 2008. 

“But I got a good wife out of it.” 

A Slow Start 

In 1948, a gallon of milk cost 86 cents. A ski parka cost $5. A Dodge 

DeLuxe cost $1,500, and a two-bedroom house in Portland, $9,500. 

“Every once in a 

while I’d pick up a 

squirrel some place, 

skin it and throw it 

in the pot and cook 

it for my dinner.” 

Lil Abner and Dick Tracy held top spots on the comics page of The 

Oregonian, even as the front page carried daily headlines about the 

“Reds” taking over Eastern Europe and China. President Harry S. 

Truman had witnessed the establishment of the United Nations 

three years earlier, and was guiding the country through recovery 

from World War II. 

On a much smaller stage—along a trail that snaked south along 

the backbone of the Cascade mountains in Oregon—a 28-year-old 

trapper set down tracks in another kind of history-making event. 

Meissner announced his trip in early February of 1948 with plans 

to start from Timberline Lodge on Friday, Feb. 13. Once the Forest 

Service heard of his plans, however, officials discouraged him from 

traveling alone. Regional Forester, H. J. Andrews, told The Oregonian 

that the Forest Service wouldn’t even allow its own men to make 

such a trip alone, and that he hoped Meissner’s excursion would not 

encourage others to do the same. Mt. Hood Ski 

Patrol also issued a written warning to Meissner, 

calling the trip “foolhardy in the extreme.” 

Meissner’s friends, however, knew he was 

up to the challenge. Longtime friend Bob 

Knoll recalled asking Meissner, just after he 

announced the trip, “Why would you want to do 

that?” But, Knoll admitted, “I also knew, without 

a shadow of a doubt, that Jack would make it.” 

Knoll described Meissner as hardworking, smart 

and skillful enough to do anything he set out to 

do. The two men had conducted snow surveys 

together at the McKenzie Pass, and Knoll knew Meissner was in good 

shape and an excellent skier. 

The Forest Service, however, had other concerns. Storms and 

freezing temperatures in early February undoubtedly prompted 

their warnings, but so had a recent tragedy at Mt. Hood. On February 

2, a 23-year-old newlywed died of exposure to the cold after 

wandering off the ski trail late that day. The man, Bert Suprenant, 

had removed his skis and taken shelter under a tree but was found 

dead the next morning. A February 3 editorial in The Oregonian 

characterized Suprenant as a novice skier and under-prepared for 

the cold. “The Cascades are merciless as they have always been to 

the overconfident and ill-prepared. Mr. Suprenant’s death is a grim 

warning to thousands of youngsters.” Suprenant, prepared only for a 

day of recreational skiing, wore light wool and cotton clothing with 

a leather jacket and gloves, and carried no survival equipment. The 

editorial writer lamented the skier’s “tragic disregard or ignorance of 

the rules for safe conduct in the snow.” 


The meissner Legacy 

Jack’s wife, Virginia Meissner, has a 

sno-park named for her along the 

Cascade Lakes Highway between 

Bend and Mt. Bachelor. Virginia, an 

outdoors-woman since childhood, 

spent much of her childhood around 

Salem, fishing and exploring the 

outdoors with her father. Virginia 

met Jack at willamette Pass Ski Area 

during his trek, and they discovered 

a common love of outdoor life. After 

they married, they continued to ski 

and hike together in the Cascades. 

in the '70s, Virginia began teaching 

Meissner's trek was 

covered closely in the 

oregonian, which took 

a paternally dim view of 

the journey, and in the 

bend bulletin. a massive 

flood in vanport, oregon 

in May 1948 wiped out 

Meissner's diary and 

photos leaving the newspapers' 

accounts as the 

remaining records. 

cross-country skiing and hiking at 

Central Oregon Community College. 

in the '80s, she wrote three 

books on skiing and hiking in Central 

Oregon: Cross Country Ski Tours in 

Central Oregon, Day Hikes in Central 

Oregon, and Hiking Central 

Oregon and Beyond. 

Virginia also spent many 

years lobbying local 

officials on behalf of 

cross-country skiers 

and marking trails for 

a sno-park that would 

be closed to motorized 

vehicles. 

Unlike Suprenant, Meissner knew how to survive alone 

in the cold and snow. Although he learned to ski only since 

returning from the war, his experience as a trapper in the 

Cascades backcountry during snowy winters prepared him 

well for the weather as well as the terrain. Nevertheless, 

once warned against traveling alone, Meissner cast about 

for a traveling partner. 

Accounts differ as to how he found one. The Oregonian 

reported that he signed up Ernst Pentheny, a ski instructor 

at Timberline Lodge. A few days later, however, Pentheny 

withdrew from the trip. Meissner’s own version of the story 

held that he and a friend, Stan Tonkin, devised the plan for 

the trip together, and when Stan couldn’t make the trip, 

Jack recruited Emery “Woody” Woodall, 21, a college student 

from Virginia doing odd-jobs in Government Camp. 

“He was a better skier,” Meissner said of Woodall, “but I had 

more experience.” 

Meissner and Woodall skied away from Timberline Lodge 

around 1 p.m. on February 18, wearing bright red parkas and 

carrying 45-pound packs with a tent, sleeping bags, food and 

emergency supplies. Guided by contour maps, a compass, 

and Meissner’s knowledge of the Cascades, they pulled their 

jackets tight as they headed south in bracing winter cold to 

Skyline Trail, now known as the Pacific Crest Trail. 

Government Camp to Santiam Pass 

The two men traveled about 60 miles in six days, past Ollalie Lake 

and into the Mt. Jefferson Wilderness. Meissner had pre-arranged 

with the Eugene civil air patrol to fly over and drop supplies periodically 

during the trip, and The Oregonian records the first sighting of 

the two on Feb. 24 on the north slope of Mt. Jefferson. Pilots saw no 

signs of distress and dropped food and two carrier pigeons, which 

would deliver messages from the travelers to Eugene. On the ground, 

though, Meissner and Woodall had been experiencing heavy storms 

and icy conditions that required frequent stops to scrape their skis. 

Weather reports during February in Portland and Bend indicated 

lower temperatures and greater snowfall in the Cascades than 

the averages over the past four decades. By the time Meissner and 

Woodall left Government Camp, snow had blanketed the mountain 

passes, making travel hazardous. Meteorologists expected even 

colder weather to follow at high altitude, but for a few days, the lower 

elevations were deluged with rain. 

The day after the Civil Air Patrol drop, Meissner and Woodall 

skied along the western slope of Mt. Jefferson, but near 

Russell Glacier, runoff and an impassable canyon forced 

them to take off their skis and climb lower. For several 

days, they tramped through swampy underbrush, skis 

strapped to their backs, hoping to find a stream crossing. 

Woodall developed painful blisters on his feet, so the men 

found a road, flagged down a car and got Woodall a ride 

into town. Eight days into the trip and now alone, Meissner 

didn’t hesitate to continue the journey. “He’s a glutton for 


The unusually 

heavy snows that 

winter buried most 

of the Skyline 

Trail markers, so 

Meissner found 

his way using his 

compass, the sun, 

as a guide. 

punishment,” said Woodall on February 29, 

“and is holding up well.” 

Remembering the trip decades later, 

Meissner recalled hitching a ride back up to 

Marion Forks, staying there one night and 

shoveling snow to earn the night’s lodging 

before pushing on. However, the Bend Bulletin 

reported on March 1 that Meissner got 

a ride to Hoodoo Lodge then backtracked 

northward in order to keep the journey 

continuous before returning to Santiam 

Pass. 

On Sunday the 29 th , Meissner recounted 

the details of his trip by loudspeaker to thousands of skiers at Hoodoo 

for an All-Oregon ski tournament. The crowd included his peers 

from the Obsidians, an outdoor club from Eugene. He was rested 

and reenergized two days later, so Meissner strapped on his skis and 

“headed into the ski area and over the hill." Moving into elevations 

above 4,500 feet, he was about to face the most challenging portion 

of the trip. 

Santiam Pass to Cascade Summit 

Meissner skied toward McKenzie Pass and traveled along the sides 

of volcanic peaks toward a shelter he remembered in the area. He 

and Knoll had previously done snow surveys for the Forest Service 

in this area. Storms slowed his progress this time, and he got stuck 

overnight in frigid weather, wind whistling through the lava cones. “I 

remember it was a miserable night,” said Meissner. It was one of the 

worst he spent on the trip. Equipment breakdowns also complicated 

the trip. While skiing through these rocky areas on the pass, he split 

his skis. Although The Oregonian reports indicated that he had aluminum 

tips for the skis in case this happened, Meissner recalled he 

filled the gash with pine tar and wax and kept moving south toward 

the shelter west of the Dee Wright Observatory. 

Meissner’s original plan of traveling ten miles per day proved too 

grueling, especially in the foul weather and difficult ski conditions he 

encountered around Mt. Jefferson. Still, his two-person tent served 

him well, as did the wool and nylon pants provided to him by the 

White Stag company. As Meissner remembered it, White Stag had 

asked him to try out an experimental pair of trousers, with one leg 

made of wool and the other made of a wool-nylon blend. The blend 

proved to be the superior material as it was more water resistant and 

dried faster, he said. 

Meissner also took daily precautions. He never traveled in the dark 

because, when not staying in travelers’ shelters, he needed enough 

light to make camp. Meissner stripped branches from a tree and laid 

them on the snow, pitched his two-person army surplus tent on top, 

then built a fire. During his time spent trapping, Meissner learned 

some very practical skills for backcountry survival. “Never build a 

fire on snow,” he said. “Instead, cut the trunk of a tree into sections 

and make a platform to build the fire on.” He also found some clever 

ways to manage his food needs. 

Using his #10 tin cooking 

pot over an open fire, 

Meissner made simple 

meals from dried foods. 

For breakfast, he ate 

oatmeal and raisins 

before breaking camp. 

He never stopped for 

lunch, instead snacking 

on cheese and 

nuts while traveling. 

The Civil Air Patrol 

dropped fruit, vegetables, 

and even frozen meats to him. 

When he didn’t have such luxuries, he 

prepared dinners from dried foods, 

but his trapper skills again came in 

handy. “Every once in a while, I’d 

pick up a squirrel some place, skin 

it, and throw it in the pot and cook 

it for my dinner.” 

Past the McKenzie pass area, 

Meissner traveled along the west 

side of the Three Sisters, where 

he found the terrain easy but 

the weather treacherous. “It 

was not too bad going, except 

around the buttes,” he said. 

At Mesa Creek, he ran into 

a heavy snowstorm, and by 

the next morning three feet 

of new snow had accumulated 

around his tent. He 

dug a snow cave to wait out 

the storm, but after a day, 

he realized, “I couldn’t 

stay any longer,” and he 

headed back out into the 

blowing snow. 

Meissner traveled 

along the southwest 

side of the Sisters 

toward the Elk Lake 

Basin. He’d been 

alone for almost a 

week since his stopover 

at Santiam 

Pass. At a snowcovered 

lake near 

Rock Mesa (south 

of Mesa Creek), 

he saw a phone 

Diamond Peak 

+ 8744 

Diamond 

Lake 

Mt. Mazama 

8160 

+ 

Crater 

Lake 

+ 

Mt. Thielsen 

9182 

Ollalie Butte 

7215 

Three Fingered Jack 

7841 

+ 

Waldo 

Lake 

Odell 

Lake 

Crescent 

Lake 

Mt. Hood 

+ 

11240 

Mt. Wilson 

5599 

+ 

+ 

Mt. Jefferson 

10497 

+ Mt. Washington 

7794 

10085 

+ 

Three Sisters 

+10047 

+ 10358 

+ 

Mt. Bachelor 

9065 

Mt. Scott 

8926 

+ 


after weeks of trekking, Meissner resupplied at the Willamette Pass Ski area 

before facing the most challenging leg of his perilous solo journey. 

line above him, the only sign of civilization for miles. He hit it with 

his skis, just to hear the sound. No one answered. 

The unusually heavy snows that winter buried most of the Skyline 

Trail markers, so Meissner found his way using his compass, the 

sun, as a guide. He came in on Waldo Lake from the north, an area 

he had spent the previous winters trapping pine marten and bears. 

Sizing up the almost ten-square-mile lake, he said, “I’m not going to 

go around this lake.” Although Waldo is the second deepest lake in 

Oregon, there were no springs that might create holes in the ice, a 

friend had told Meissner. He eased out onto the frozen, snow-covered 

surface and traveled south for nearly five miles in the silence. 

Traveling alone across a frozen lake invites additional risk, of 

course. Undoubtedly, this was one of those activities the Forest Service 

and others worried about when Meissner announced the trip. 

Whether confidence or arrogance propelled his choices, Meissner 

said he never had any close calls on the trip. “A close call is only 

when you’re going to get hurt,” Meissner judged, and clearly he did 

not plan on putting himself in danger. 

By the time he skied across Waldo Lake, Meissner had been on 

the trail for about twenty days and had traveled almost 200 miles. 

On March 10, he was traveling through a valley southwest of South 

Sister, and a second supply drop from the Civil Air Patrol brought 

him “a swell bunch of food” and another carrier pigeon. Daughter 

Jane Meissner said, “He beat the pigeons back. [People] thought he 

ate them, but he just made it back first.” The subsequent arrival of 

the pigeons dispelled the rumors. 

The Civil Air Patrol pilots spotted him traveling at 6,300 feet “in perfect 

weather conditions,” 50 miles south of Santiam Pass. Four days later, 

he arrived at his parents’ home in Cascade Summit at Odell Lake, only a 

few days later than he had originally planned. He stayed there just long 

XC groomers, races and Backcountry Touring 

GROOMED NORDIC SKIING 

Mt. bachelor Nordic 

the 56K trail network consists of a 

dozen trails at elevations between 

5,750 and 6,400 feet. the nordic 

Center offers rentals, apparel and gear 

sales, food and a lodge warmed by a 

wood-burning stove. 

Teacup Lake 

Off HwY 35 near the Mt. Hood Meadows 

ski area, teacup Lake has 20K of 

groomed trails that meander through 

a thick pine forest and the cozy ray 

Garey warming hut for shelter. 

anthony Lakes 

Located in the powder-rich elkhorn 

Mountains west of Baker City, 

Anthony Lakes has a groomed 30K 

trail network located adjacent to the 

full-service alpine ski area. 

Walt Haring Sno-park 

A mile north of Chemult in southern 

Central Oregon, it has 15K of groomed 

trail and plenty of parking. 

virginia Meissner Sno-park 

Midway between Bend and Mt. 

Bachelor on Cascade Lakes Highway, 

Meissner Sno-park is the starting point 

for a 40K trail system groomed four 

times weekly. 

Hoodoo 

Just off HwY 20 between eugene 

and Sisters, the Hoodoo Ski Area has 

arguably the most beginner-friendly 

network of cross-country ski trails in the 

state. the 15K trail system is located close 

to the area's expansive alpine ski lodge 

with full services. 

NORDIC RACES 

The John Craig Memorial 

the granddaddy of all Oregon crosscountry 

ski races, the John Craig 

celebrates Oregon's legendary skiing 

mailman Craig and his route over the 

Cascades. Held at the end of March since 

1934, the event offers a 30k race up the 

eastern portion of the McKenzie Pass 

to the Dee wright Memorial at the top 

of the pass and back. For non-racers, 

there's a more relaxed commemorative 

mail carry ski tour up over the pass and 

down its west side. 

tumalolanglauf.com/events 

Teacup Classic Races 

On January 31, teacup Lake nordic will 

host classic kick-and-glide technique 

only races at several distances. 

teacupnordic.org 

Sporthill Crescent Lake Challenge 

new to Oregon's cross-country racing 

schedule, the January 17, 22K race goes 

over mellow terrain counter-clockwise 

around Crescent Lake just off HwY 58 

near the willamette Pass Ski area. 

crescentlakechallenge.com 

Great Nordeen Ski Race 

named in honor of the late emil 

nordeen, a key figure among Central 

Oregon's Scandinavian logger/ski racers 

of the early 1900s, the April 3, 30K race 

starts at Mt. Bachelor nordic Center 

eventually winding its way to a finish at 

wanoga Sno-park. 

mbsef.org 

John Day Memorial 

in the late '60s and early '70s in a car 

packed with ski gear, Medford rancher 

John Day drove across the U.S. promoting 

the then little-known sport of 

cross-country skiing. now he's honored 

with a 10K classic and 20K freestyle race 

at Diamond Lake off HwY 138. this year 

the event will take place on February 14, 

followed by a celebratory meal at the 

Diamond Lake Lodge. 

BACKCOUNTRY TOURING 

Mt. Hood area 

easily the most accessible backcountry 

skiing close to an urban area in 

America, Mt. Hood offers a spectrum of 

backcountry possibilities from mountain 

steeps, to glacier skiing, to tours 

through old-growth forests. 

Three Sisters Wilderness 

essentially next door to Mt. Bachelor, 

the three Sisters wilderness offers 

close, short skin-up turn-down runs 

on tumalo Mountain to longer tours 

and ascents/descents on Broken Hand 

and Broken top Crater. Come spring 

and early summer, skiers head into the 

three Sisters (north, Middle and South) 

accessed near the town of Sisters for big 

mountain, big glacier skiing. 

Willamette Pass 

to the north of the pass and the willamette 

Pass ski area are endless day-tour 

possibilities in the vicinity of the rosary 

Lakes. Across HwY 58 to the north are 

tours and ascent/decent outings in the 

Diamond Peak wilderness. 

Paulina Peak-Newberry 

National volcanic Monument 

Just south of Bend, the national Monument 

has plenty of backcountry touring 

options plus some steep and deep skiing 

off the summit of Paulina Peak. 

Mt. ashland/Siskiyous 

Beyond the boundaries of the Mt. Ashland 

ski area in southern Oregon lay 

the vast skiable forests and peaks of the 

Siskiyou Mountains. 

Steens Mountain 

in spring, the slopes of 30-mile long 

Steens Mountain range in the remote 

southeastern part of the state offer 

excellent corn snow skiing on slopes 

that range from easily rolling to 40 

degrees steep. 


enough to ride out a storm and to travel 

to Eugene to buy new skis, an expense of 

about $25 at the time. “Hendershots gave 

me a good discount,” he said, not recalling 

whether the skis he bought were 

Splitkins or Northlands. He also stopped 

at Willamette Pass Ski Area, where he 

met up with Lucille Gibson and Virginia 

Tompkins. Tompkins would become his 

wife the following year. 

Cascade Summit to Crater Lake 

For the final leg of the trip from Odell 

Lake to Crater Lake, two teen-age 

boys asked to join him. The Oregonian 

reported that a member of the Civil Air 

Patrol also traveled with them for a few 

days before splitting off. They started 

on March 18, but soon returned to Cascade 

Summit discouraged by a storm that gripped 

the mountains. As much as ten inches of 

snow fell in eight hours at Crater Lake and 

wiped out power to much of Klamath County. 

The young men proved their strength in a 

side trip climbing Diamond Peak, but Meissner 

said that the boys, Don Temple and Gilbert 

Bissell, both 17, lacked some important 

skills for outdoorsmen. “I could see those 

kids making mistakes—the way they would 

chop wood and wanted to keep going and not 

stop before it got dark.” Meissner decided he 

needed to send them home, so he skied with 

them to Crescent Lake and put them on the 

train. He then went to the store at Crescent 

Lake, bought and ate a can of peaches, then 

headed back to the mountains. 

Skiing south again, he traveled to Summit Lake and Windigo Pass. 

Navigating the open fields there proved especially difficult. “The snow 

on the road was too deep. There was no fall-off from the trees to pack 

it down, so I went back into the woods again.” 

On April 2, Meissner skied into Diamond Lake Lodge, where he 

once again traded work for lodging. “I shoveled a lot of snow,” he said, 

recalling the work he did for the caretaker who gave him a room for 

the night. 

Near-zero temperatures loomed and more snow blanketed the 

Cascades in the next few days as he headed south again. Not far 

from his destination, Meissner fell into a ditch and struggled to get 

out. Stuck in the snow, he thought for a while, then shoved the back 

end of one ski into the slope of the ditch, stood on it, and shoved 

the next ski in a little higher than the first. He stepped up on the 

second ski and reached down for the first. He put that one back 

into the snow above the other ski, and repeated the process several 

Sixty years later, 

Meissner’s memory 

of his motivation 

for making the trip 

was that he hoped to 

make some money. 

The financial goal 

didn’t work out, he 

said, “But I got a 

good wife out of it.” 

times, creating a ladder to climb until he 

reached the top. Finally, he scrambled 

out and laid on the flat ground to rest. 

On April 8, in the midst of a severe snowstorm, 

Meissner arrived at Crater Lake 

Lodge. Exhausted, hungry, and covered in 

snow, he entered the lodge. “They gave me a 

pretty askance look,” he said. The staff and 

customers there had apparently not heard 

of his journey. 

Meissner had skied 300 miles in thirtythree 

travel days, mostly alone, at elevations 

ranging from 4,000 to 10,000 feet 

and during one of the coldest, snowiest 

winters of the previous decade. He became 

the first to accomplish this on skis. 

In an April 12 editorial titled “Ski Tracks 

Along the Cascades,” The Oregonian, which 

had earlier reported on his foolhardiness, 

praised Meissner’s success. “The achievement 

of having skied from northern mountain to 

the southern lake is a considerable one, and we 

congratulate Mr. Meissner on his fortitude and 

fitness … Money cannot buy such memories as 

Jack Meissner now keeps.” 

Meissner returned to his home at Odell 

Lake, later married, and became the director 

of the Willamette Pass Ski Area for many 

years before moving to Bend and starting the 

ski school at Mt. Bachelor. Meissner and his 

wife, Virginia, ran the Mt. Bachelor school 

until 1973, after which he held ski instructor 

positions in Colorado and back at Willamette 

Pass until the late 1990s. In the summers, he 

did home repairs. He lived in Crescent until 

his death in 2008. 

Meissner kept a diary and took photos during the 1948 adventure, 

but he sent them to his sponsor, a manager with the White Stag company 

that provided his outerwear. The manager’s house, where the 

materials were kept, was destroyed by the Vanport, Oregon flood in 

May 1948. Only a few items remain of the trip, including a trophy created 

for Meissner by the Obsidians, the Civil Air Patrol of Eugene and 

the Oakridge Ski Club. At the time of his death, he also had the Army 

surplus tent that sheltered him at night, and a scrapbook that his wife 

and mother put together after the trip. 

The construction paper book, bound with now-tarnished brads, 

holds newspaper clippings about the trip, a few black and white images 

of Jack on his stop at Willamette Pass, and some hand-painted backgrounds 

of skis, ski tracks, and pine boughs. The hand-lettered title 

page of the scrapbook reads “This adventure belongs to Jack Meissner, 

Cascade Summit, Odell Lake, Oregon.” Six decades later, that adventure 

still belongs only to him. 


Oregon Living 

47 outdooregon 

56 Design 

62 Home grown 

70 getaway guide 


Getaways 

>> 

Destination 

Oregon 

10 cures for cabin fever 

written by Sarah Max 

and Anne Aurand 

The true beauty of Oregon is in its many faces 

and climates. Winter is no exception. Come 

January and February, the Oregon coast will likely 

exhibit temperatures in the low 50s drizzled with 

rain. Over the Cascades and into the high desert, 

Bend is partly sunny and somewhere in the low 

30s. Farther east to Baker City and you're looking 

at 40s and clear blue skies. But this isn't a weather 

report for cities that start with B, it's a state-wide 

guide to some of the best ways to take advantage 

of the varied temps and terrains this winter. 

Photo Brent McGregor 


dog sledding 


Get a Dog's-eye View of Mt. Bachelor 

You might say that a tour with Oregon Trail of Dreams is the dogsled 

equivalent of a carriage ride with Sea Biscuit or a tandem bike 

tour with Lance Armstrong. In fact, the one-hour tour winding 

through an old-growth forest on Mt. Bachelor's 

south side is a cakewalk for the 12-dog 

teams of Alaskan Huskies, many of which 

have Iditarod finishes under their harnesses. 

While the dogs are capable of pulling at hair-raising speeds, 

seasoned guides keep the four-legged athletes in check with downhill 

speeds rarely topping 15 miles per hour. Cost: $75 for adults, 

$30 for children less than 80 pounds, with maximum passenger 

capacity of 450 pounds per sled. If you're looking for a full-day affair, 

opt for the marathon trip to Elk Lake Lodge (see page 54) and 

back for $450 for two adults, including lunch. For more information, 

look under the services/activities tab of Mt. Bachelor's website 

(mtbachelor.com). 


Outdooregon 

Oregon Living 

Explore an Urban Legend 

If you think urban-wilderness is an oxymoron, you haven't spent 

much time in Portland's Forest Park. At 5,100 acres, it's the largest 

urban forest in the country– but it gets better. At its most southern 

point, the park meets up with Macleay Park, 

trail running 

Portland Metro 

which then spills into Washington Park. The 

30-mile Wildwood Trail spans all three parks 

and is crisscrossed by miles and miles and 

miles of single-track and fire roads. “Even traversing our regular 

routes backwards can provide a novel run,” says Ruben Galbraith, 

an ultra runner and leader of Trail Factor running club (trailfactor. 

com). This 6-mile run is one of his staples: Start at Lower Macleay 

parking lot (NW 29th St. and Upshur St.) and run or hike west 

along Balch Creek until the trail intersects with the Wildwood 

Trail at the Stone House (a defunct public restroom built in the 

1930s as part of the Works Progress Administration). Bear left at 

the Wildwood Trail and wind up to Pittock Mansion. On a clear 

day, you're rewarded with panoramic views of downtown Portland, 

Mt. Tabor and Mt. Hood. From the mansion, double back or keep 

going another 3.5 miles to the Oregon Zoo and the southern-most 

point of the Wildwood Trail. Detailed maps are available at the 

Forest Park Conservancy (forestparkconservancy.org). 

Go Off Piste in the Wallowas 

The Cascades may get most of the glory, but for breathtaking views 

and dry and plentiful snow, you can't beat the Wallowa Mountains. 

To see these rugged peaks, grab a few friends and book a back-country 

yurt. Experienced off-pisters will get the 

Backcountry skiing 


most bang for their buck at one of the two selfcatered 

camps run by Wing Ridge Ski Tours 

(wingski.com). As long as you pass the outdoor 

skills assessment, you can ski (or snowshoe) into one of two camps 

without a guide for the rate of $55 per night per person. Each camp 

is composed of a cook tent, sauna tent, latrine and two five-person 

sleeping tents. Don't want to go it alone? Wing Ridge offers guiding 

service starting at $200 a day. If you'd rather not worry about cooking 

or navigating, Wallowa Alpine Huts (wallowahuts.com) offers fourday 

all-inclusive trips for $625 a person. 

Photos Robert Agli 

What's in her pack? 

When it comes to preparedness, Wing Ridge's lead guide Charla Whiting 

treats a two-hour cruise in the backcountry no differently than a two-day trip 

“just in case something goes wrong.” 

First aid kit Flint and matches in a plastic bag Whistle Compass 

Disposable hand warmers Down jacket Avalanche shovel Avalanche 

transceiver Thin rope Small tarp or heavy garbage bag Dry soup 

Extra socks Nuts and other high protein foods Knife with scissors 

Something bright to flag for help Small thermos with a hot drink 

Can to heat soup on a fire 


Oregon Living 

Outdooregon 

Find Fresh Tracks at Mt. Bailey 

Experienced skiers quench their thirst for fresh tracks and massive 

amounts of snow on Mt. Bailey, just five miles north of Crater 

Lake National Park. The 8,360-foot Cascade mountain peak 

catches winter storms from the coast, collecting 500 to 600 inches 

of snow each season and making for many 

waist-deep powder days. Experienced backcountry 

skiers can skip the cat and skin up 

the ungroomed mountain. But for $350 per 

cat skiing 

Southern Oregon 

person, Cat Ski Mt. Bailey (catskimtbailey.com) takes skiers on six 

to eight runs down chutes, tree runs and open bowls. Guides determine 

which part of the 6,000 acres of terrain will offer the best 

tracks and weather each day for the best experience. Basic lodging, 

food and drinks are available at the Diamond Lake Resort (diamondlake.net), 

where rustic motel rooms range from $79 to $109 

a night and cabins range from $179 to $559 depending on size and 

vintage. Rates are higher on weekends and holidays. 

Hike the Badlands 

Solitude. Serenity. Silence. That, 

says David Eddleston, is reason 

to hike in the 30,000-acre high 

desert wilderness called Badlands, 

15 miles east of Bend on 

Hwy 20. Eddleston, a Scotsman 

and veteran of the British 

Army, moved to Bend ten years 

ago and soon fell in love with 

the Badlands' rugged canyons, 

jagged lava formations and ancient 

juniper trees. Today he 

leads a volunteer stewardship 

group, Friends of Oregon Badlands 

Wilderness and stocks 

maps at trailheads to help visitors 

navigate the 45 miles of 

trails. Hiking in the Badlands 

is particularly pleasant in the winter when the trails aren't dusty 

and afternoon temperatures can reach 50 degrees. The Flat Iron 

Trail and Badlands Rock Trail, both about 6 miles, are popular 

routes, but Eddleston's personal favorite is the 6- or 10-mile Larry 

Chitwood trail loops. These trails are rarely 

visited, easy to bushwhack without getting 

lost, and marked by rocky outcroppings 

and 360-degree views of the Badlands and 

winter hiking 


Cascade Mountains. When visiting the Badlands, keep an eye out 

for pictographs and obsidian arrow heads – but leave them undisturbed. 

Also expect to see wildlife such as deer, coyotes or yellow 

bellied marmots. For more information, go to the website of the 

Oregon Natural Desert Association (onda.org). 

above: The Badlands 

Wilderness in the winter. 

Miles of hiking just 

20 miles east of Bend 

make for a good rest 

day when skiing. right: 

Cat skiing at the remote 

Mt. Bailey is one day 

you'll not soon forget. 

Photo Buddy Mays 

Photo Krk Devoll 


Free the heel and free the mind at Mt. Bailey. Deep bowls, 

thrilling chutes and richly powdered glades await the first 

tracks of Mt. Bailey Cat skiers. 


Photo Buddy Mays

Outdooregon 

Oregon Living 

backcountry 


Get Away from it All at Elk Lake 

A winter excursion into Elk Lake Resort (elklakeresort.net) in 

the Central Oregon Cascades can mean any number of things: a 

cross-country ski adventure, a snowmobile outing or a cozy snow 

cat ride. No matter how you travel the scenic 

11-mile route from Dutchman Flat Sno- 

Park into the snowbound resort, it ends in a 

winter wonderland of comfy cabins ($199 to 

$379 a night depending on the cabin) and a revamped lodge serving 

hearty American cuisine. The resort is an ideal base camp for 

winter recreation, whether it's exploring the backcountry, crosscountry 

skiing the groomed 7-mile Elk Lake Loop or touring via 

snowmobile (available for rent at the resort). But while there's no 

shortage of things to do at Elk Lake Resort, part of its appeal is the 

luxury to do nothing. 

The historic lodge at Elk 

Lake serves hearty meals 

at a communal table. 

alpine/nordic skiing 


Lose the Crowds at Anthony Lakes 

Don’t let the word “resort” fool you. Anthony Lakes Ski Resort (anthonylakes.com), 

located 35 miles northwest of Baker City, is one 

of the more beautiful, isolated and uncrowded ski areas around. 

What it lacks in on-site lodging and dining, 

it makes up for in family-friendly skiing 

and champagne powder. Open Thursdays 

through Sundays and most holidays, the 21- 

run resort has one triple chair, a hand tow and a wonder carpet 

for youngsters. Tickets cost $39 for adults and $10 for kids six and 

younger. Guided snowcat skiing is available for $199 per person per 

day. Anthony Lakes also boasts 33 kilometers of gorgeous groomed 

Nordic trails for all levels of classic and skate skiers ($13). North 

Powder is the closest town, 19 miles away, but we recommend driving 

the extra 15 miles to the historic Geiser Grand Hotel (geisergrand.com) 

in Baker City and kicking back at the award-winning 

Barley Brown’s Brewery (barleybrowns.com). 

Photo Jon Tapper 

Ride the Steelhead Train 

Fishermen have called this an epic, record-breaking season for 

steelheading. The summer count of steelhead crossing the Bonneville 

Dam on the Columbia River was the largest run ever recorded. 

Grab your fly-rod and hop on the Steelhead 

steelhead fishing 


Train in northeast Oregon, in the heart of the 

Columbia Basin. Now in its sixth season, the 

1950s-era, self-propelled, 52-seat train car, 

which runs on Saturdays and Sundays in February and March, departs 

from the Minam Motel and Market in Minam and shuttles 

a maximum of 40 anglers hole to hole along a 10-mile Wild and 

Scenic stretch of the Wallowa River. Catching fish isn’t guaranteed, 

but an experienced guide is on board to help. Book a ticket through 

Minam Motel (minammotel.com) – $75 full day or $40 half day. 

The train also carries additional non-angling passengers for a scenic 

ride. The quaint and convenient eight-room Minam Motel has 

some kitchenette rooms, but many passengers opt to sleep and dine 

in La Grande or Enterprise. 


Find the Perfect Storm 

Oregon's coast comes alive in the winter months when 

big storms blow in, bringing 50-mile-an-hour winds and 

40-foot waves. There is no shame in spectating from the 

comfort of the indoors. But, to ex- 

storm watching perience the full force of the storms 

rolling off the Pacific, put on a parka 

Oregon Coast and head to a high ground. “I don't 

recommend going right out on the beach,” says Pat Corcoran, 

coastal hazards outreach specialist for Oregon State 

University, citing sneaker waves, rip currents and fastmoving 

debris as some of the biggest safety threats. With 

hundreds of miles of public shoreline, however, the Oregon 

Coast has no shortage of vantage points for soaking in a 

storm. Here are some of Corcoran's favorites. 

Fort Stevens State Park, near Astoria. A choice spot is the 

observation deck at Parking Lot D. “It's good exposure, but 

you're not tempted to walk out on the jetty,” says Corcoran. 

Seaside Promenade, downtown Seaside. Mix storm watching 

with boutique hopping on the historic promenade. 

Ecola State Park, north of Cannon Beach. The park offers 

several viewpoints along nine miles of rocky shoreline. 

Pelican Pub & Brewery, Pacific City: Feel the maelstrom 

of gusting winds swirling around Cape Kiwanda, then head 

inside for a pint of The Perfect Storm. 

Devil's Punchbowl, north of Newport: The main attraction 

at this two-acre state park is a bowl-shaped 

rock formation where water swirls and sprays. 

Cape Blanco, north of Port Orford. Oregon's 

western-most point is ideal for watching the 

waves crash into shore. Be sure to check out 

the historic lighthouse. 

Brave the Winter Greens 

If the $220 summer green fee at Bandon Dunes (bandondunesgolf.com) 

has kept you from playing one of its renowned linksstyle 

courses, here's your chance. During the winter months, 

you can play for less than half the price, 

thanks to January and February green 

fees of $75 and $90 respectively. While 

the price goes down, the quality of play 

doesn't. Winter weather is generally mild, and because the 

courses are built on sand, they drain quickly when it rains. 

“Winter golf here is a lot like what you'd get playing in Scotland,” 

says the resort's head golf professional Jeff Simonds. Of 

course, winter at the coast isn't always marked by wet weather. 

Locals describe February as a secret summer, with sunny days 

and balmy (relatively speaking) temperatures. “Some people 

are actually disappointed if it's sunny,” says Simonds. Golf 

isn't the only thing that gets discounted in the off season. Now 

through the end of January, for example, you can book two 

nights at the resort, two rounds of golf, two breakfasts and one 

dinner for $370 per person based on double occupancy. 

winter golf 

Southern Coast 

Winter Golf Tips 

You might say that Grant Rogers is a foul-weather player. As far as the director 

of instruction at Bandon Dunes is concerned, the wetter and the windier the 

better. “It adds a whole new dimension to the game,” he says. 

Here's how to get the most out of it. 

Mentally prepare for all conditions. It might be rainy the first 

hole and sunny the second 

gloves to wear between shots 

wipe your grips 

Dress in layers, including warm 

Pack plenty of dry towels to 

Make sure your spikes are good and sharp 

Adjust your expectations. A birdie on a sunny day may be par on 

a rainy day. “Focus more on the experience and don't worry about 

your score,” Rogers says. 


0248_DNP_1859_825x495.indd 1 

12/9/09 1:08:07 PM 

Ashland Springs Hotel 

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Oregon Living 

Design 

green FeaTUres: 

Compact 1,900 square feet • Passive solar design • Slab-on-grade, 

which acts as thermal storage mass • Evacuated-tube solar hot 

water system • Formaldehyde-free fiberglass insulation • Tulikivi 

soapstone stove • Low-VOC paints • Locally-sourced wood for 

exterior and interior • Energy Star appliances 

Small Scene, Big Green 

Sustainable design and low-impact living in two small Oregon homes. 

Two of the most important considerations are building small and using 

the right "Finish-ing" elements 

TO ASSESS THE PRACTICALITY of their 

home design plans, Perry St. John and Cathy 

Chisholm slept beneath the stars on their 

newly purchased hillside property that overlooks 

Coos Bay in North Bend, Oregon in 

2007. Their campout provided them with 

some crucial information. 

“We realized that it can get quite windy up 

here,” St. John explains. The couple replaced the 

drawings for a vertical house and upstairs deck 

with a new design that protected the house 

from the strong northwesterly winds and relocated 

the master bedroom to the ground floor. 

May 2009 offered the couple and Chisholm’s 

13-year-old son, Drake, great cause to celebrate. 

After years of waiting, the three of them 

had a comfy new cottage they could call home. 

The family had been living together in North 

B end since 2006, but didn’t buy the property 

for their future home until 2007. 

St. John, who worked for more than twenty 

years as an architect and is now a project manager 

in Coos Bay, lent his expertise to nearly 

every phase of the home design process. Chad 

Dixon, who works with St. John at HGE, Inc., 

served as structural designer on the project. 

Both St. John and Chisholm were committed 

to integrating as many sustainable features 

as possible—including a passive solar heating 

system. Still, from the outside, they wanted 

their home to have the appearance of a seasoned 

beach house. 

“We kept the image of a coastal weathered 

gray cottage in our heads, and we’ve always 

liked the way that Craftsman bungalows feel, 

with taller ceilings, trim work and built-ins,” 

says St. John. 

In the end, the trim they installed was 

made from poplar harvested less than ten 

miles from their home. The exterior siding 

is made from regional Western red cedar, 

known for its ability to withstand coastal 

weather. Inside, the stairs and beams are 

regional Douglas fir, and the banister is 

made from Central Oregon juniper. Even 

their kitchen cabinets are made from a 

regional wood, alder. 

The couple looked to Sarah Susanka’s, 

The Not So Big House series to help them 

create thoughtful, compact spaces that 

lived larger. “The hearth as the center of 

our family living space was important to 

us,” explains St. John, and a Tulikivi stove 

proved to be the perfect solution. 

Though St. John and Chisholm’s bedroom 

ended up on the ground floor, they haven’t 

missed out on what may well be the best 

part about living at the coast—listening 

to the calming waves of the Pacific Ocean 

at night. 

by Addie Hahn 

photos by Joni Kabana and Michael Davis 


Project: St. John and Chisholm Residence 

Architect: HGE, Inc. 

Location: Coos Bay, Oregon 


Project: Price and Keller Residence 

architect: John Duffié 

Location: Ashland, Oregon 

“It takes a bit more thinking 

and intention when living in 

a passive solar house ... 

It connects you a lot more 

with nature.” 

FIFTEEN YEARS AGO, John Price visited a 

house that made a big impression on him. 

The home sat off the grid and relied on 

natural forces and materials to provide its 

inhabitants with warmth and electricity. 

Price was drawn to the way its careful design 

imposed an unusually close relationship 

between the homeowner and the natural 

surroundings. Some day, he decided, he 

would “build a house that worked with 

nature rather than dominating it.” 

As Price discovered, designing a one-ofa-kind, 

green home requires a willingness 

to do your own research and the patience 

to carry through the selection and revision 

processes. This past August, he and 

his partner, Erin Keller, were officially able 

to move in to the home that they had long 

dreamt about. 

With the aid of seasoned architect John 

Duffié of Medford, they decided to build a 

1,480-square-foot, Craftsman straw bale 

home with a passive solar design in the historic 

district of Ashland. Straw is known 

for its insulating properties, and Price and 

Keller were able to use locally grown straw. 

The homeowners anticipated some resistance 

to their design in a neighborhood 

known for its older, clapboard siding homes, 

but were heartened to find the historic commission 

receptive to their plans. 

“Since building, our neighbors’ reactions 

have been extremely positive,” explains 


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Oregon Living 

Design 

green FeaTUres 

Compact 1,480 square feet • Locally sourced straw bale • Passive solar 

design • Hybrid convective air slab (solar slab) • Wastewater heat recovery 

system • Gas tankless water heater • Tulikivi soapstone stove • R55 ceiling 

insulation with radiant barrier • Operable roof vent designed to release 

excess heat • Thermal drapes and blinds • Ecotop countertops (Kliptech) • 

American Clay Plaster interior finishes • Non-VOC stains and fini shes on interior 

cabinets and woodwork • Energy Star appliances • Dual flush toilets • 

Low flow showerheads and faucets 

Price. “Most Ashlanders are very supportive 

of sustainable design.” 

Inside, the walls are finished with environmentally 

safe American Clay Plaster, giving 

them a buttery smooth texture. With no carpeting, 

forced air heating, or toxic finishes, 

the air quality is excellent, too. 

A beloved Tulikivi soapstone stove from 

Finland burns wood at such a high temperature 

that it keeps the house warm for twelve 

hours at a time while emitting little air pollution. 

Architect Duffié’s favorite feature is the 

innovative hybrid convective air slab, or solar 

slab, which makes use of a series of channels 

beneath the floor to circulate and siphon 

warm air throughout the space. 

“It takes a bit more thinking and intention 

when living in a passive solar house,” explains 

Price. “Opening and closing thermal blinds 

to let the sun in, deciding when we may need 

to use the stove to supplement heating—you 

don’t just throw a switch and forget about 

it.” Still, much as he anticipated years ago, he 

and Keller are finding this new way of living 

rewarding. “It connects you a lot more with 

nature,” says Price. 


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Oregon Living 

Home Grown 

Crabbing 

the Oregon Coast 

A generations-old tradition, crabbing is Oregon’s 

maritime bounty, Corey Rock’s “cowboy” lifestyle 

and the tastiest catch for these four recipes 

Crab 

Recipes 

by Cathy Carroll 

photos by Joni Kabana 

>> 

The ringtone on Corey Rock’s cell 

phone is “Patience” by Guns N’ Roses, 

but for this third-generation fisherman in 

Newport, patience is of little use when it’s 

crab season. 

“My father’s a great fisherman, and 

he always says that in crabbing, there’s 

the quick and the dead,” says Rock, 38. 

“There’s only so much crab out there, and 

they’ll all be caught up. It’s just a matter of 

who’s going to do it.” 

An Oregon crabber will bring in an 

average of 150,000 pounds of Dungeness 

crab, which wholesales for an average of 

$2 per pound. The commercial crabbing 

season begins in December and lasts for 

three months. The short season breeds 

long risks. 

In a typical December along the Oregon 

coast, waves reach about 12 feet, but at 

least once a year, swells of 20 feet or higher 

will threaten crab fishermen, says Rock. 

“There is a lot of wind. You’re pulling 

in your gear, securing things on deck, 

shutting the doors down tight, and you jog 

into it. You point the bow into the weather 

at a crawl, enough so you can steer.” 

But that doesn’t diminish his love for 

a job that is in his blood. For Rock, the 

tradition began when his grandfather, 

Archie Rock, took up fishing on the 

central Oregon coast after the logging 

dried up in the Medford area. His father, 

Joe Rock, followed in his wake, and now 

three generations of the family have made 

their living from pulling Dungeness crab 

from the Oregon coastal waters. 

“It’s one of the last things where you can 

wake up in the morning and you have no 

idea what’s going to happen,” he says. “It’s 

the last cowboy-ish thing to do.” 

When the tide is high, Rock steers 

the Kylie Lynn, a 73-foot shrimp trawler 

from the Louisiana Gulf Coast that 

Rock modified for West Coast crabbing, 


“It’s one of the last things 

where you can wake up in 

the morning and you have no 

idea what’s going to happen … 

It’s the last cowboy-ish 

thing to do.” 

Corey Rock, third-generation 

crab fisherman from Seal Rock 


CLoCkwise: the crabbing fleet in newport just before the commercial season gets under 

way. Boiling pots of freshly caught dungeness. if you're catching your own, bring a bucket 

of ice to store your catch. a fresh crabmeat cocktail at Local ocean seafoods. 

Home grown 

Oregon Living 

through the channel from the Yaquina 

Bay and out to sea. For three to five days 

a week for months, he leaves his wife, 

Maria, and children, Kyle, 9, and Kylie 

Lynn, 7, stalking crab 10 to 20 miles off 

shore. in that way, the job of a crabber is 

unchanged since it began on the Pacific 

Coast in the late 1800s. 

Maria, used to go out on the jetty at 

newport at the start of each season to 

watch him sail out on the Kylie Lynn with 

his crew of three. no more. 

“We’ve had boats not make it over 

the bar, and go out opening day of crab 

season, flip over and lose four guys,” says 

Maria, who has been on the board of the 

newport Fishermen’s Wives Association 

for nine years. “it’s a time of year when 

fishermen are desperate—sometimes too 

desperate—and they make bad choices.” 

instead of going out to the jetty, Maria 

talks with their children about their 

father being away most of the next two 

months. 

“it’s just something you kind of get 

used to,” Maria says. “The better part 

Crabbing by the numbers 

Oregon is the leading producer of 

Dungeness crab 

Predominant species of crabs on the 

Oregon coast: Dungeness and 

Japanese red rock 

Oregon processed 13 million 

pounds of Dungeness crabs in 2008 

Biggest harvest: 

33.6 million pounds in 2004-05 

the commercial crabbing 

season lasts from 

December 1 to August 14, 

with 80% of landings in the 

first eight weeks 

of the season 

of our marriage i’ve spent missing my 

husband, but when he comes home, it’s 

special.” 

The Dungeness crab is the official 

state crustacean, and on the coast, 

it is as iconic as the Douglas fir, the 

hazelnut and the American beaver. 

According to the oregon Dungeness 

Crab Commission, the species was 

reportedly named after a small fishing 

village on the straight of Juan de Fuca in 

Washington. 

Dungeness are caught in circular 

steel crab pots, which are attached to 

a line and buoy. squid or razor clams 

are used as bait for the crabs dwelling 

on the ocean floor. Fishermen like rock 

bring in 150,000 to 300,000 pounds of 

crabs in a good season, keeping only 

the mature males. Through these and 

other sustainable fishing practices, the 

oregon Dungeness Crab Commission 

has earned the support of such groups 

as the Monterey Bay Aquarium, the 

Audubon society, natural resource 

Defense Council and the environmental 

Defense Fund. 

December through February is 

the peak oregon Dungeness crab 

commercial fishing season, though 

less intensive recreational crabbing 

continues along oregon beaches 

through August 14. 

oregon native James Beard, anointed 

the “dean of American cookery” by 

the New York Times in 1954, called 

Dungeness a “meal the gods intended 

only for the pure in palate.” As the 

author of several seminal cookbooks, 

appearances on television’s first cooking 

shows, and writing for Gourmet 

and other magazines, Beard 

became a global presence in 

gastronomy. he established the 

James Beard Cooking school 

before he died in 1985. 

Do Your own 

Crabbing on the 

Coast 

THE BASICS 

When: 

Year-round, but 

crabs are meatier in 

high and low tides 

during the fall 

Where: 

Bays, estuaries, tide pools, beaches, docks 

and jetties 

What You'll need: 

A shellfish license that you can buy for 

$6.50 from Oregon Department of Fish 

and wildlife. the license limit is 12 crabs. 

A crab-measuring implement or a ruler, 

a crab pot or ring 

A cooler 

Bait holders and bait 

How to Crab: 

Check all line on crab pots or rings for kinks 

or knots to ensure they are durable and will 

allow gear to crab correctly. 

Bait your crab pot with chicken, herring 

or clams; or to avert interest from seals 

and sea lions, use turkey legs. 

tie your line to the dock and throw 

your crab pot into the water, and 

allow 30-45 minutes. 

Pull in your pot and sort through them 

quickly to gently return to the water all 

undersized crabs (less than 5 ¾ inches 

across), any softshell and all female crabs. 

Males have a thin arrowhead-shaped 

abdomen. Females have shorter and 

rounder abdomens. the keepers are 

males whose shells are hard and measure 

at least 5 ¾ inches across, not including the 

sharp points on either side of the shell. 

Store legal crabs in a bucket with 

frequently changed water. 


Sat.is.fac.tion, noun 

1. The fulfillment or gratification of a desire, need 

or appetite. 2. Pleasure derived from the gratification 

of a desire or appetite. 3. A source of gratification; 

see Oregon Dungeness crab… 

With Oregon’s Dungeness crab harvest in full 

swing, now is the perfect time to satisfy your 

craving for the crustacean James Beard described 

as “…sheer, unadulterated crab heaven.” 

Indulge your appetite at home with friends and 

family, at your favorite seafood restaurant or with 

perfect strangers at one of the many coastal ‘crab 

feeds’ so popular this time of year. 

Oregon Dungeness: kind of makes you want to smile… 

For cooking & cracking instructions, tantalizing recipes and more information, visit us on the web at 

www.oregon ungeness.org or contact us at 1-800-707-CRAB for a free plastic bib.

Stuffed Salmon with Bay Shrimp & Crab 

(serves 4) 

From McCormick & Schmick’s Seafood Restaurants 

Stuffed Salmon 

1 cup beurre blanc sauce (recipe below) 

4 5-ounce salmon fillets 

6 ounces bay shrimp 

6 ounces Dungeness crab meat 

6 ounce brie cheese, cut into ½ inch cubes 

3 tablespoon mayonnaise 

1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill 

Pinch of salt and pepper 

Preheat oven to 400°F. Prepare the beurre 

blanc sauce and set aside. Split the salmon 

fillets lengthwise to form a pocket for the 

stuffing. Combine the shrimp, crab, brie, dill, 

salt and pepper. Gently blend in the mayonnaise 

to bind the mixture. Divide the stuffing 

mixture between the four pocketed fillets. 

When full, let the flaps cover the stuffing so 

that only a small amount is exposed. Bake in 

a lightly buttered baking dish for 10 to 12 minutes. 

Transfer to dinner plates and spoon the 

beurre blanc over the fish. Combine wine, 

vinegar, peppercorns and shallot in a noncorrosive 

saucepan (stainless steel, Teflon, 

Beurre Blanc Sauce 

(makes 1 cup) 

6 ounces white wine 

3 ounces white wine vinegar 

3 whole black peppercorns 

1 shallot, quartered 

1 cup heavy cream 

6 ounces cold, unsalted butter, 

cut into pieces 

3 ounces cold, salted butter, 

cut into pieces 

Calphalon). Reduce until the mixture is just 1 to 

2 tablespoons and has the consistency of syrup. 

Add the cream and reduce again until the mixture 

is 3 to 4 tablespoons and very syrupy. Remove 

the pan from heat. Add the butter pieces, 

about 2 ounces at a time, stirring constantly and 

allowing each piece to melt in before adding 

more. (If the mixture cools too much, the butter 

will not melt completely and you will have 

to reheat it slightly. Strain and hold warm on a 

stove-top trivet or in a double-boiler over very 

low heat until you are ready to use. 

“Voila! It was a picnic that was just 

over-the-top delicious,” Newman recalls. 

“It was the picture of bounty, and how 

fortunate we are here.” 

In Portland, Dungeness appears on 

seasonal menus at Jake’s Famous Crawfish, 

a downtown landmark for more 

than 110 years and considered one of 

America’s top seafood restaurants. It 

features more than thirty types of fresh 

fish and seafood, with an emphasis on 

traditionally prepared fresh Northwest 

products. 

It is one of the McCormick & 

Schmick’s Seafood Restaurants, where 

Bill King is vice president of training 

and culinary development. King came 

to Oregon thirty-two years ago, after 

beginning his career on the Atlantic 

Coast, in and around his hometown, 

Wilmington, Delaware. 

Dungeness is as popular in Oregon 

today as it was then, King says. He considers 

the subtle sweetness of the meat best 

suited to being served cold, in salads and 

appetizers. 

“I love nothing more than eating a whole 

crab in the shell, cracking it, and taking 

the time to pick it apart and eating it cold, 

dipped in mayonnaise with a little Tabasco,” 

he says. “The absolute premier portion 

of crab is the legs, when you get the 

white meat out of the shell, you have these 

football shaped pieces that are as sweet as 

anything, and they have a little more flavor 

and body and great texture.” 

The texture holds up well to being sautéed, 

in crab cakes and used in stuffing, for 

dozens of recipes, says King, whose cookbook, 

A Chef’s Bounty, has recipes featuring 

crab and other local ingredients—from 

Marionberry elk chops to hazelnut-crusted 

venison. 

The process of deftly extracting crab 

from its shell and savoring each bit is a 

gastronomic pleasure linked to one of 

King’s best memories. He had just begun 

working as a chef at the original McCormick 

& Schmick’s, formerly on First and 

Oak streets in Portland. It was one of the 

first dinner dates he ever had with his 

wife, Jennifer, whom he had been dating 

for about six months. 

“We each ordered Dungeness crab, and 

we sat and ate and talked, sipping some crisp 

white wine for about three hours, picking 

away at the crab and getting to know each 

other,” King says. “I have vivid memories of 

that, and that’s part of why I still love eating 

Dungeness that way today.” 


Oregon Living 

Home grown 

Dungeness Crab Sliders 

with Green Curry Mayonnaise 

and Apple, Fennel and Walnut Slaw 

by Lisa Glickman 

photos by Paula Watts 

Oregon 

Home 

Grown 

Who LiVes in A PineAPPLe 

under the sea? if you have a 9-yearold 

like i do, you probably know the 

answer to that question. spongeBob 

himself would approve of this tasty 

crabby patty slider. i have eaten spider 

crab from the Mediterranean, blue 

crab in new england, stone crab in 

Miami, soft shell crab in Louisiana 

and even the impostor “crab with 

a K,” but, in my opinion, nothing 

compares with the delicate sweet 

flavor of the Dungeness crab found 

here in the northwest. An afternoon 

of picking crab from the Bell Buoy 

in seaside, oregon is just as much 

of a beach activity as a long walk on 

the promenade, flying a kite on the 

beach or twenty mindless games of 

“Fascination.” 

This recipe adds lots of flavor 

without losing the delicious texture 

of the Dungeness crab. You can buy 

Dungeness crab meat at most good 

grocery stores here in oregon, or you 

can spend the afternoon cracking 

your own whole cooked crabs. Try to 

keep the succulent legs and knuckles 

intact and also try not to eat all the 

crab before it makes it into the patty. 

i gave a nod to the Waldorf salad in 

the Apple Fennel slaw. The sweet slaw 

pairs well with the crab. You can use 

regular white sugar in the dressing, if 

you don’t have the agave nectar, but 

the agave adds a tasty dimension . 

craB pattieS 

(serves 4-6) 

1 pound Dungeness crab meat 

strained and squeezed of excess liquid 

1 tablespoon unsalted butter 

1 small red pepper finely chopped 

1 large shallot finely chopped 

½ cup fresh bread crumbs (about 2 

slices of bread; crusts trimmed) 

2 tablespoons milk 

¼ cup mayonnaise 

¼ teaspoon thai chili paste 

(sambal oelek) Juice and 

grated rind of ½ lemon 

1 teaspoon Old Bay Seasoning 

½ teaspoon worcestershire sauce 

½ teaspoon dry mustard 

1 egg 

2 cups panko bread crumbs 

Olive oil for frying 

Green curry mayonnaiSe 

½ cup good quality mayonnaise 

1 teaspoon green curry paste 

(or more to taste) 

½ teaspoon fresh squeezed lemon juice 

apple, fennel and Walnut SlaW 

Dressing 

¼ cup mayonnaise 

¼ cup plain Greek yogurt 

½ teaspoon Dijon mustard 

2 tablespoons walnut oil 

2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar 

3 teaspoons agave nectar 

½ teaspoons celery seeds 

Kosher salt and black pepper to taste 

Slaw 

2 fennel bulbs tops and bottoms 

trimmed, cored and thinly sliced 

1 honeycrisp apple; peel left on, 

julienned (or grated) 

2 celery stalks sliced thin 

½ cup toasted walnuts 

Mix mayonnaise ingredients together in small 

bowl. Melt butter in a sauté pan and sauté 

peppers and shallots over medium heat until 

tender, 5-6 minutes. Place in larger bowl and 

let cool. Place bread crumbs and milk in a small 

bowl and set aside. In another small bowl 

mix mayonnaise, chili paste, lemon juice and 

rind, Old Bay, Worcestershire, dry mustard and 

egg. Add crab meat to cooled vegetables. Toss 

gently to mix. Add softened bread crumbs and 

mayonnaise mixture. Stir gently, trying not to 

break up the crab meat. With your hands form 

into patties and coat with panko (mixture will be 

a bit hard to handle) and place patties on baking 

sheet covered with parchment. Chill patties for 

an hour or up to 4 hours. Preheat oven to 350°F. 

Fry patties in hot oil until golden brown on both 

sides and place on baking sheet. Bake in hot 

oven for about 10 minutes until cooked through. 

Serve on buns with lettuce and green curry 

mayonnaise. Mix dressing ingredients together 

and toss with slaw. Add toasted walnuts. Season 

with kosher salt and pepper to taste. 


Crab, Mango & Avocado Salad 

(serves 4) 

From McCormick & Schmick’s Restaurants 

salad 

¾ cup diced mango 

¾ cup diced avocado 

10 ounces Dungeness crab meat 

4 tablespoons pomegranate reduction 

or light syrup 

4 tablespoons citrus-flavored vinaigrette 

4 tablespoons chive oil 

(see recipe below) 

½ cup micro greens or spicy sprouts 

tossed in a small amount of the 

citrus vinaigrette, for garnish 

chive oil 

2 bunches fresh chives 

½ cup vegetable oil 

To create the “tower,” place a 2-inch ring 

mold on a serving plate. Spoon two heaping 

tablespoons of diced mango into the mold. 

Layer two heaping tablespoons of avocado 

on top of the mango into the mold. Finish 

with 1 ½ ounces of Dungeness crab meat 

to fill the mold. Press down lightly to set 

the ingredients. Keeping your fingers or a 

spoon on top of the mold, apply pressure, 

and gently slide the ring mold up and off 

of the salad. Rinse and dry the mold before 

moving on to the remaining plates. Garnish 

the top of each salad with the micro greens. 

Drizzle pomegranate reduction, citrus 

vinaigrette, and chive oil on the plate and 

around the tower. Blend the chives and 

oil in a blender for 5 minutes. Place the 

finished oil into a squirt bottle and set aside. 

The oil may be made a day ahead of time. 

Dungeness Crab Cakes 

(serves 2 as a main course or 4 as an appetizer) 

From Newmans at 988, Cannon Beach 

Crab Cake Mixture 

½ pound cooked Dungeness crabmeat 

2 ounces shelled, tailed, and de-veined 

prawn or shrimp meat 

2 ounces fresh scallops 

4 tablespoons heavy cream 

Juice of ½ a lemon 

¼ cup chopped chives 

¼ cup chopped fresh parsley 

Salt and freshly ground black pepper 

Lemon Aioli 

(makes about ¾ cup) 

2 egg yolks 

Juice of ½ a lemon 

1 garlic clove, minced 

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 

½ cup olive oil 

Balsamic Syrup 

1 cup balsamic vinegar 

Salt and freshly ground black 

pepper to taste 

Fresh chopped chives for garnish 

Pick through cooked crabmeat and remove 

shells. Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil or 

butter in a large skillet over medium-high 

heat. Form 1/4-cup portions of crab mixture 

into small patties, about ½ -inch thick. Fry 

the cakes on both sides until golden brown, 

about 4 minutes per side. To serve: Arrange 

hot crab cakes on a plate and sprinkle with 

chopped chives. Drizzle a touch of balsamic 

syrup around the edges and serve with 

lemon aioli on the side. 

In a mixing bowl, whisk egg yolks until thick 

and lemon colored. Whisk in lemon juice, 

garlic and mustard, mixing well. Gradually 

add olive oil, mixing steadily, until 

it is incorporated. If the mixture is too 

thick, substitute a bit of water for the 

oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper. 

Cover and store in the refrigerator 

until needed. 

Pour 1 cup Balsamic vinegar into a 

saucepan. Bring to a boil and simmer 

rapidly until reduced to the consistency 

of maple syrup. Set aside. In a food 

processor, combine prawns, scallops, 

cream, lemon juice and salt and pepper 

to taste. Purée until smooth. Transfer 

the mousseline to a mixing bowl and 

gently fold in crabmeat, chives and 

parsley. Cover with plastic wrap and chill 

until needed. 


Central Oregon Getaway Guide 

1.1-1.3 

STRANGE MATTER EXHIBIT AT 

THE HIGH DESERT MUSEUM 

Play with magnetic liquids, bounce ball 

bearings, see a climbing tower of foam, 

and do hands-on materials science 

discovery. Bend; highdesertmuseum.org 

1.1-3.31 

BEAD, GEMSTONE 

AND JEWELRY SHOW 

Fabulous inventory importing 

worldwide. Featuring hard-to-find 

stone beads such as ruby, sapphire, 

emerald and baltic amber. Don’t bead? 

Sign up for a free beginner class on 

Sunday. Bend; 509.460.2868 

1.1-3.31 

GPS ECO-CHALLENGE TOURS 

Learn about the history of Bend with 

family, friends or co-workers through 

a GPS guided tour that starts on the 

Deschutes River in the Old Mill District. 

Bend; wanderlusttours.com 

1.5-3.31 

TOTALLY TOUCHABLE TALES 

Storytelling that opens preschoolers’ 

eyes, ears, and hearts to the natural and 

cultural wonders of the High Desert. 

Activities include puppet play and craft 

projects. Bend; highdesertmuseum.org 

1.6-1.31 

WILD WEDNESDAYS 

Kids 7-12 will discover obscure parts of 

the High Desert Museum on weekly 

scavenger hunts. Use an adventure map 

to find all the hidden treasure chest and 

get a prize! Bend; highdesertmuseum.org 

1.9-1.10 

HIGH CASCADE ENTER THE 

DRAGON SLALOM EVENT 

High Cascade Snowboard Camp offers 

this sanctioned event for all ages. Bend; 

mtbachelor.com 

1.10 and 3.14 

HOT CHOCOLATE RUN 

Participate in a 5- to 8-mile trail 

run. Afterwards, meet new Bendites 

while enjoying hot cocoa, coffee, and 

bagels. Shevlin Park at 9 a.m. Bend; 

footzonebend.com 

Lake Creek Lodge, Camp Sherman 

When you stay in one of our cabins, near the 

meandering Metolius River, time seems to slow down. 

Your shoulders relax. Your blood pressure drops. And you 

begin to notice the majestic sound of the wind in the pines 

instead of your cell phone ringing. Take advantage of our 

winter special ~ Stay for 2 nights and the 3rd night is FREE! 

800.797.6331www 

Jen's Garden, Sisters 

900 Wall, Bend 

Formerly Merenda, this upscale downtown restaurant 

and bar is the center of Bend buzz. Surf 

and turf with a Pacific Northwest ethic, the new 

900 Wall is more affordable than its predecessor. 

Many wines by the glass and a full bar. 

541.323.6295 900wall.com 

lakecreeklodge.com 

In the cute town of Sisters, Jen's Garden is an intimate 

cottage with wonderful French cuisine, fresh 

local ingredients and an extensive wine list. Thursday 

through Sunday enjoy the five-course dinner. 

541.549.2699 intimatecottagecuisine.com 

Cascade Lakes Brewing Company Lodge, Bend 

The top spot for the post-mountain bike ride and aprés 

ski, The Lodge has some of the best craft beers in a 

town known for microbrews. The Blonde Bombshell 

goes nicely with an ambitious pub-grub menu. Bar 

and restaurant with pool, darts and large screen TVs. 

541.388.4998 cascadelakes.com 

FivePine Lodge, Sisters 

Rustic luxury is the name of the game at Five Pine Lodge, 

a 35-acre retreat straddling the town of Sisters and the 

Deschutes National Forest. Stay in one of the eight 

cozy rooms in the main lodge or opt for one of the 24 

detached cottage suites tucked among towering Ponderosa 

pines. 

541.549.5900 fivepinelodge.com 

>> Recreation Guide for Central Oregon 

at 1859magazine.com 


Central Oregon Getaway Guide 

Typhoon!, Bend 

"This is Thai food the way you always wished it would 

taste," said Bon Appétit, lauding chef-owner Bo Kline 

as one of the "hottest chefs in America." Praised in rave 

reviews throughout the nation, Bo and Typhoon! have 

become icons of the Northwest food scene. Typhoon! 

blends classic Thai hospitality, flavor and elegance in 

an inspired menu marked with modest prices. 

541.385.8885 typhoonrestaurants.com 

Pine Ridge Inn, Bend 

Situated on a bluff overlooking the Deschutes 

River Canyon, just outside the city center and 

on the road to Mt. Bachelor Ski area, Pine Ridge 

Inn is at the heart of rich recreation of Central 

Oregon. Perfect for any occasion! Wine Social 

and hot homemade breakfast included. 

800.600.4095 pineridgeinn.com 

Old Mill Shopping District, bend 

Bend’s unique shopping, dining, entertainment and 

working experience. Located on land along the Deschutes 

River that formerly housed one of the world’s largest sawmill 

operations, the Old Mill District now has more than 

49 businesses including such national retailers as Banana 

Republic, REI, Victoria’s Secret and the Gap. 

541.312.0131 theoldmill.com 

The Oxford Hotel, Bend 

Discover a hip urban oasis in the middle of the great 

outdoors. Located in the heart of historic downtown, 

The Oxford Hotel is Bends first and only boutique 

hotel, with 59 stylish suites and amenities that will 

satisfy every whim. Come, experience a side of Bend 

youve never seen before. 

541.382.8436 oxfordhotelbend.com 

Desert Pine Properties, bend 

Desert Pine Properties offers lodging in distinctive vacation 

homes in Central Oregon. Experience a yearlong 

menu of entertainment, activities and fine dining. Let 

Desert Pine Properties arrange a visit to Central Oregon 

for you and your family, a business retreat, romantic 

getaway or great adventure. 

541.728.6273 desertpineproperties.com 

1.28 

Peking acrobats 

Breathtaking feats of dexterity, grace, 

and strenth for the whole family. They 

perform daring maneuvers atop a 

precarious pagoda of chairs; they are 

experts at treacherous wire-walking, 

trick-cycling, precision tumbling, 

somersaulting, and gymnastics. Bend; 

towertheatre.org 

2.5-3.5 

FIRST FRIDAY GALLERY WALK 

The First Friday Gallery Walk in 

downtown Bend celebrates Bend’s 

cultural arts on the first Friday of each 

month. Bend; bendgalleries.com 

2.12-2.14 

BEND WINTERFEST 

Ice-carving, fireworks, Mojo Music 

Eruption, children’s activities, the 

snowboard and ski rail jam, ice skating, 

wine, a light show and the exciting 

cross-country ski sprint races in the Old 

Mill District. Bend; bendwinterfest.com 

2.27-2.28 

cove palisades eagle watch 

Join bird-watchers at Cove Palisades 

Park near Lake Billy Chinook for live 

birds of prey, renowned guest speakers, 

field viewing sessions, fun contests, 

prizes and more. oregonstateparks.org 

3.15 

fireside piano concert 

Young Italian pianist Roberto Plano, 

a 2005 Van Cliburn Finalist and a 

2001 Cleveland International Piano 

Competition Winner, plays the Historic 

Great Hall at the Sunriver Resort 7:30- 

9:30. Sunriver; sunrivermusic.org 

3.16 

celtic tenors 

The Celtic Tenors pioneer a new style of 

‘cool’ never before seen on the classical 

stage and break the traditional stuffy 

tenor mold. Bend; towertheatre.org 

3.20 

the irish rovers 

For 45 years they have made every 

day St. Patty's Day with "The Unicorn," 

"Wasn't That A Party" and their unique 

sense of humor. Hear them perform 

in a small intimate space at the Tower 

Theatre. Bend; towertheatre.org 

1859 oregon's magazine winter 2010 71 

>> Real Estate Guide for Central Oregon 

at 1859magazine.com

The Coast Getaway Guide 

1.1-5.31 

WHALE WATCHING 

ON THE OREGON COAST 

Witness a winter gray whale cruise 

along the Oregon Coast en route 

from Alaska to Mexico. Depoe Bay; 

whalespoken.org 

1.1-2.13 

COLLAGE REGIONAL ART EXHIBIT 

On the Cutting Edge-Collage Regional 

Art Exhibit, Maggie Karl Gallery at Coos 

Art Museum. Coos Bay; coosart.org 

1.16-1.18 

FISHER POETS ON THE EDGE 

Saturday afternoon free films at the 

Newport Public Library. Saturday 

evening, FisherPoets Main Event at 

the Oregon Coast Aquarium. Sunday 

morning, open mic and hearty brunch 

buffet at the Yaquina Bay Yacht Club on 

the Newport Bay. Newport; 

fisherpoets.writersontheedge.org 

1.20-1.21 

sand Dollar drop 

Handcrafted glass sand dollar drop on 

Lincoln City beaches. More than 300 

handcrafted glass sand dollars will 

await discovery, weather and ocean 

permitting. newportchamber.org 

1.23-1.24 

WINTER FOLK FESTIVAL 

Enjoy a weekend of live music, crafts 

and more. Featuring Misty River 

and The Brothers Four. A youth folk 

music talent competition on Saturday. 

Florence; winterfolkfestival.org 

1.30 

Oregon pinots in astoria 

Sample many different styles of Pinot 

Noir made here in Oregon – from the 

big name top producers, to the small 

boutique producer. 1-4 p.m. at the 

Cellar on 10th, located in the Astoria 

Underground at the corner of 10th & 

Marine Drive in Downtown Astoria; 

thecellaron10th.com 

2.11-2.13 

ART FROM OREGON'S PRISONS 

Mabel Hansen Gallery at Coos Art 

Museum. Coos Bay; coosart.org 

Ocean Lodge, Cannon Beach 

The Ocean Lodge is the place where simple fun and 

nostalgic pleasures come together. In Cannon Beach, 

the Ocean Lodge gives you the opportunity to walk 

out onto your deck, feel the sea mist and watch the 

breakers crash into Haystack Rock and over the pristine 

sands of Cannon Beach. 

888.777.4047 theoceanlodge.com 

Pelican Pub & Brewery, Pacific City 

Two words for you: beachfront microbrewery. Soak 

in picture-perfect views of Haystack Rock, sample 

award-winning ales and fuel up on fresh seafood, 

gourmet pizza and killer sandwiches. 

503.965.7007 pelicanbrewery.com 

Salishan Resort, Gleneden beach 

Enjoy the ambiance of fireplaces, take in the natural 

surroundings from your private balcony, or get some 

rest on luxury pillow-top bedding in one of 205 guest 

rooms. The resort’s par 71 course, winds through old 

growth timber on the front nine and offers linksstyle 

play on the back nine. 

800.452.2300 salishan.com 

Bandon Inn, Bandon 

Located on a bluff, the Bandon Inn overlooks Old 

Town Bandon, the marina, Coquille River and the 

Pacific Ocean. Miles of stunning beaches, beautiful 

sunsets, world-class golf and fine local dining all 

come together to make your stay at Bandon Inn a 

memorable experience. 

800.526.0209 bandoninn.com 

Overleaf Lodge, Yachats 

Every room has an ocean view at this fantastic lodge. 

Nightly accommodation includes continental breakfast 

featuring fresh baked items, cereal, fruit, egg 

dishes, juices, coffee and teas. Guests also enjoy free 

use of Overleaf spa facilities, including the soaking 

pool, hot tub, steam rooms and saunas. 

800.338.0507 overleaflodge.com 

>> Travel Guide for the Coast 



The Coast Getaway Guide 

Cannon Beach Café, Cannon Beach 

Tasty tropical fare, classic comfort food and original 

cocktails make the Cannon Beach Café one of 

the hottest hangouts in town. The Café, just steps 

from the beach in the historic Cannon Beach Hotel, 

is open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and every treat 

in between. 

503.436.2729 cannonbeachcafe.com 

Hotel Elliott, Astoria 

Welcome to Hotel Elliott, Astoria’s premier boutique 

hotel. Featuring 32 uniquely restored rooms and 

suites, this historic five-story hotel has undergone a 

dramatic three-year renovation that weds early 20th 

Century elegance and contemporary amenities—from 

cedar-lined closets to heated stone floors in each bath. 

877.378.1924 hotelelliott.com 

Mo's Restaurants 

No visit to the Oregon Coast is complete without a 

bowl of Mo’s famous clam chowder. The late 

Mo Niemi opened the original location in Newport 

in 1946 and eventually opened annexes in Cannon 

Beach, Florence, Lincoln City and Otter Rock. 

Whale Watching, Depoe Bay 

Gray Whales are often feeding close to shore 

near Depoe Bay in summer. Oregon Parks and 

Recreation Department park rangers are ready to 

answer your questions and help you find whales to 

watch at the Whale Watching Center in Depoe Bay. 

541.765.3304 whalespoken.org 

Sandpines Golf Links, Florence 

Nestled amidst wind-swept sand dunes and towering 

pines, Sandpines Golf Links is a breathtaking location 

for coastal golf. The Rees Jones designed course was 

honored as the "Best New Public Course in America" in 

1993. Sandpines also recently received a 4½ star rating 

from Golf Digest's list of "Places to Play in the USA." 

800.917.4653 sandpines.com 

2.13-2.14 

Wine, beer, seafood festival 

In Gardiner, bands from the Northwest 

perform various genres of music 

throughout the weekend. Oregon 

wineries and microbreweries offer 

tastings of their premium wines and 

microbrews. Gardiner; reedsportcc.org 

2.14 

ANNUAL CHARLESTON CRAB FEED 

Fresh Dungeness Crab Dinners, 

whole or half crabs at market price 

includes beans, salad, bread and 

beverage. All proceeds help support the 

Charleston Visitor Center. Charleston; 

oregonsadventurecoast.com 

2.26-2.28 

NEWPORT SEAFOOD 

and WINE FESTIVAL 

It wouldn’t be winter on the coast 

without the Newport Seafood & Wine 

Festival. It’s the premier seafood and 

wine event of the West Coast and the 

original Northwest seafood and wine 

festival. An amateur and commercial 

winemaker tournament. Newport; 

newportchamber.org 

3.13 

OREGON BERRY FESTIVAL 

Featuring a live cooking 

demonstration and more from 11 a.m.- 

2 p.m. Admission is free, with tasting 

portions available for a small fee. 

Lincoln City; oregoncoast.org 

3.20 

great oregon 

spring beach cleanup 

Your opportunity to help keep Oregon's 

beautiful beaches clean. Register online 

and choose one of over 40 beach sites 

to clean. This semiannual coast cleanup 

is sponsored by SOLV. 

Oregon Coast; solv.org 

3.20-3.27 

WHALE WATCHING WEEK 

Oregon’s Whale Watching Spoken Here 

program focuses on the peak times for 

gray whales migrating in sight of the 

coast. Depoe Bay; whalespoken.org 

541.265.2979 moschowder.com 


>> Dining Guide for the Coast 

at 1859magazine.com

Eastern Oregon Getaway Guide 

1.1 

ELKHORN CLASSIC 

30K classic cross-country ski race in the 

beautiful alpine setting at Ski Anthony 

Lakes Resort. Classic and freestyle 

races. North Powder; anthonylakes.com 

1.1-2.28 

Elk viewing 

What better way to see elk than in a 

horse-drawn wagon? Take the family 

on a horse-drawn elk viewing tour in 

North Powder; tnthorsemanship.com 

1.6 

WINTER BEACH PARTY 

AT ANTHONY LAKES RESORT 

A winter mountain beach party in the 

snow with a BBQ, Hula Hoop contest, 

tube luge and more. 

North Powder; anthonylakes.com 

1.21, 2.18, 3.18 

THIRD THURSDAY ART WALK 

Many galleries and shops host a 

celebration of the arts from 5 p.m. 

to 8 p.m. the third Thursday of each 

month. La Grande; visitlagrande.com 

1.30 

Elgin Stampede Crab Feed 

Come and join us at 4p.m. for great 

food, good company and a fun time. 

Crab is the main menu item but it will 

also include homemade potato salad, 

coleslaw, baked beans and garlic bread. 

Elgin; 541-963-2136 

2.26 

sleigh ride and bonfire 

Music, hot chocolate, an open sleigh 

tour of Baker City and a roaring bonfire. 

Baker City; geisergrand.com 

3.6 

SNOW BLAST 

A festival of fireworks, live music, a BBQ and 

more. North Powder; anthonylakes.com 

3.20 

ANTHONY LAKES 

WINTER TRIATHLON 

The Anthony Lakes Winter Triathlon 

is an individual event consisting of a 

3K run, a 3K mountain bike, and a 3K 

cross-country ski—all on snow! North 

Powder; anthonylakes.com 

Hell's Canyon jet boat 

Wallowa Lake Lodge, joseph 

Rustic and cozy, the Wallowa Lake Lodge was built 

in the 1920s but is updated for comfort in one of 

Oregon's most remote corners. It has 22 rooms and 

eight cabins, and all are different. Breakfast and dinner 

served daily. 

541.432.9821 wallowalakelodge.com 

Raft the incredibly gorgeous Hell's Canyon on a trip 

down the Snake River. Big Horn sheep and petroglyphs 

are just two discoveries that will take you 

back in time and back to nature. 

541.785.3352 hellscanyonadventures.com 

Tamástslikt Cultural Institute, Pendleton 

Tamástslikt Cultural Institute’s Living Culture Village, a vibrant, 

living display of traditional housing forms and Tribal 

crafts and culture, is open to visitors June-Oct. From ancient 

pit houses to more recent tipis, the village will include 

trained interpreters to explain traditional crafts. Tamástslikt 

is open 9-5 daily throughout the summer. 

541.966.9748 tamastslikt.org 

Historic Balch Hotel, Dufur 

Hand-built by area craftsmen in 1907, the historic 

Balch Hotel is furnished with period décor, and surrounded 

by rolling farming fields of golden wheat 

and green alfalfa. Enjoy nearby activities, including 

local area wineries, museums, golf, hiking, shopping, 

biking, rafting and fishing. 

541.667.2277 balchhotel.com 

Calderas Restaurant, Joseph 

Where art meets food in Joseph. The best steak in 

town is served over a hand-carved bar. Calderas 

owner and artist, Nancy Young Lincoln, also shows 

her incredible talent for fused-glass throughout. 

541.432.0585 calderasofjoseph.com 

>> Travel Guide for the Eastern Oregon 



mt. hood/the Gorge Getaway Guide 

hOOd river inn and riverSide grill 

The Hood River Inn is the perfect base for all the area offers 

in recreation, culture, and small-town charm. A fullservice 

hotel with dining at Riverside Grill and Cebu 

Lounge. Plus, Riverside Suites offer 1 to 3 bedroom 

deluxe accommodations. Easy access to Mt. Hood 

Meadows -- ski packages available. 

800-828-7873 www.hoodriverinn.com 

McMenaMinS edgefield, TrOuTdale 

McMenamins Edgefield was once the historic 1911 

county poor farm and is today a 74-acre estate with a 

hotel, restaurants, pubs, par-3 golf, a distillery, winery 

and tasting room, spa, soaking pool and more. 

Enjoy original artwork, gardens and live music during 

your daytrip or overnight visit. 

503.669.8810 mcmenamins.com 

celilO reSTauranT, hOOd river 

Celilo Restaurant and Bar brings in locally grown 

produce for a fresh dining experience of seafood and 

pasta complemented by an extensive wine list. Located 

in downtown Hood River, Celilo regularly features 

farmer, winemaker and special dinner events. 

SixTh STreeT BiSTrO, hOOd river 

A full-service restaurant offering the best the Northwest 

has to offer. Using local ranches, farms and forage 

and regional, seasonal produce whenever possible 

to provide the best experience for our customers. 

A dozen microbrews on tap, an extensive wine list 

and a full bar. 

541.386.5737 sixthstreetbistro.com 

Maryhill winery 

Chosen as the 2009 Washington Winery of the year by 

Wine Press Northwest, Maryhill Winery is located in 

the scenic Columbia River gorge and is a family owned 

winery producing over 15 varietals of wine that showcase 

the diversity of Washington state. tasting room is 

open 10-6 daily. 9774 Hwy. 14 Goldendale, WA. 

509.773.1976 maryhillwinery.com 

1.2 

Christine CatO 

memOriaL ski raCe 

The Christine Cato Memorial Ski Race 

kicks off the ski season for high school 

ski race enthusiasts. Timberline Lodge; 

timberlinelodge.com 

1.8 

FriDaY niGht raiL jam 

Open format jam session under 

the lights. Free entry with a 

season pass or night lift ticket, $10 

for all others. Timberline Lodge; 

timberlinelodge.com 

1.23 

snOWbOarD/ski 

sLOPestYLe COmPetitiOn 

Slopesyle competition. Test your skills 

at the Hood Series or just watch. 

Winners have the opportunity to 

compete nationally and represent 

the Mt. Hood area. Timberline Lodge; 

usasa.org 

1.30 

sLOPestYLe COmPetitiOn 

Slopestyle event. Compete in Hood 

series competition; make new friends 

and win prizes or just watch! Winners 

may compete nationally. Timberline 

Lodge; timberlinelodge.com 

1.31 

haLFPiPe COmPetitiOn 

Snowboarder's delight at Hood Series 

Halfpipe Competition. Prizes and 

winners may compete nationally. $20 

or entry packages available. 

Timberline Lodge; timberlinelodge.com 

2.5-2.7 

OreGOn 4-WaY 

ChamPiOnshiPs 

Open to ages 9-12. Friday: Crosscountry 

race and jumping. 

Sunday: Slalom and Giant Slalom 

races. Government Camp; skibowl.com 

2.7 

FUsiOn series: stYLe 

Fusion Series is coming back to 

Timberline for its third year. Come and 

participate or witness friendly winter 

competition. Open to all ability level 

skiers and riders. Timberline Lodge; 

mthoodfusionpass.com 

541.386.5710 celilorestaurant.com 

1859 OreGOn's maGazine WINTER 2010 75 

>> Dining Guide for the Mt. Hood 

and The Gorge at 1859magazine.com

Portland metro Getaway Guide 

1.1-1.3 

the sCienCe OF Fear! 

Let your heart race as you face common 

fears such as falling and electric shock. 

Portland; omsi.edu 

1.1-1.3 

biGLittLethinGs 

A holiday family spectacle at Imago 

Theatre. Eleven short pieces that mix 

mask theatre, illusionistic costumes, 

original music, special-effect lighting 

and pure spectacle. Portland; 

biglittlethings.com 

1.3 

$2.00 DaYs 

Explore the museum for just $2 per 

person the first Sunday of every month. 

Portland; omsi.edu 

1.1-1.9 

23 sanDY GaLLerY/ 

the assiGnment 

This exhibit features book arts including 

artist books, sculptural books, book 

objects and altered books. Portland; 

23sandy.com 

1.1-1.10 

COFFee: the WOrLD in YOUr CUP 

Sustainable perspectives on the beloved 

vehicle the world's most common drug— 

caffeinne. Portland; worldforestry.org 

1.1-1.31 

YOU name it - PaintinGs 

bY GarY hirsCh 

“You Name It” features 20 yet-tobe-named, 

acrylic and mixed media 

paintings. Portland; galleryparadiso.com 

1.5 

ChristOPher hitChens 

Outspoken and controversial journalist 

and literary critic Christopher Hitchens. 

His most recent book, God is Not Great: 

How Religion Poisons Everything 

(2008), was called “a provocative, 

challenging and passionate work.” 

Portland; literary-arts.org 

OregOn MuSeuM Of Science and induSTry 

OMSI is 219,000 square feet of brain-powered fun! 

Bring science to life with hundreds of interactive exhibits 

where you can experience an earthquake, take 

part in lab demonstrations, see a movie in the Omnimax 

Dome Theater, explore the universe in the planetarium 

and tour a real submarine. 

503.797.4000 omsi.edu 

The gOvernOr hOTel 

avalOn hOTel & Spa 

Set at the edge of the new South Waterfront District 

on Portland’s serene Willamette River, this luxury 

boutique hotel and spa basks in the glow of the city's 

lights just minutes from downtown. With its spa services, 

the Avalon wraps guests in the sophistication 

and warm hospitality of the Pacific Northwest. 

503.802.5800 avalonhotelandspa.com 

paley'S place 

Paley’s Place offers fresh, seasonal and creative flavors 

from the Pacific Northwest. Chef and owner, Vitaly 

Paley, creates classics with French and Northwest traditions, 

using ingredients from local farmers. Kimberly 

Paley oversees an extensive wine list with local and 

European favorites. 

503.243.2403 paleysplace.net 

The luxurious Governor Hotel in downtown Portland 

boasts 100 years of superb hospitality and service. 

The newly remodeled Governor is one of the true 

historic landmarks of the Pacific Northwest—combining 

ambiance and modern convenience. Located 

near Portland's theaters, restaurants and shopping. 

503.224.3400 governorhotel.com 

heaThMan hOTel 

Celebrated for its art of service, Portland’s sophisticated 

Heathman Hotel offers an inspiring blend of natural 

elegance and modern lifestyle. One of the “World’s 

Best Places to Stay,” says Condé Nast Traveler, the 

Heathman is Portland’s perfect destination for meetings, 

events, conferences, banquets and gala affairs. 

503.241.4100 heathmanhotel.com 

>> Dining Guide for Portland Metro 


76 1859 OreGOn's maGazine WINTER 2010

Portland metro Getaway Guide 

deSchuTeS Brewery 

Deschutes Brewerys Brew Pub in the Pearl District has become 

a destination for great handcrafted beer and gourmetstyle 

pub food in a relaxed urban atmosphere. Great care is 

taken in producing the highest quality food and beer from 

start to finish with all menu items made from scratch using 

local, sustainable and natural ingredients. 

503.296.4906 deschutesbrewery.com 

MiO SuShi 

Jake'S faMOuS crawfiSh 

Enjoy salmon roasted on a cedar plank, Oregon Dungeness 

crab, Chinook salmon stuffed with crab, great pastas 

and excellent steaks, not to mention cocktails made with 

fresh-squeezed juices. Considered one of the top 10 seafood 

restaurants in the country, Jake's Famous Crawfish 

has been a Portland landmark for more than a century. 

503.226.1419 mccormickandschmicks.com 

hOTel MOnacO 

Step through the doors of Hotel Monaco Portland 

and be welcomed into a world of unique luxury right 

in downtown Portland. Inspired by Anglo-Chinois 

style, renowned designer Cheryl Rowley recently 

transformed this 1912 architectural masterpiece into 

a space of whimsy, color and life. 

This popular Japanese eatery offers an extensive 

menu of traditional and creative fusion dishes that 

are sure to please kids, non-fish eaters and sushi 

veterans alike. Chefs incorporate the local flavors 

and products of the Pacific Northwest. A casual and 

friendly atmosphere for quality dining. 

503.286.5123 miosushi.com 

JapaneSe garden 

Nestled in the West Hills, the Portland Japanese Garden 

is a haven of tranquil beauty that has been proclaimed 

one the most authentic Japanese gardens outside of 

Japan. The grounds exhibit five distinct styles: natural 

garden, sand and stone garden, strolling pond garden, 

flat garden and tea garden —all peaceful spaces. 

503.223.1321 japanesegarden.com 

1.9-1.10 

LeGO bUiLDinG ChaLLenGe 

Put your design skills to the test at OMSI’s 

Jr. FIRST Lego League showcase and a Lego 

building challenge. Portland; omsi.edu 

1.12-1.17 

brOaDWaY aCrOss 

ameriCa: XanaDU 

This Broadway comedy will take you 

back to 1980s California. Don’t miss it. 

Portland; portlandoprera.org 

1.30-1.31 

ChOCOLateFest 2010 

Chocoholics unite! The 5th annual 

ChocolateFest will satiate your 

chocolate dreams. 

Portland; worldforestry.org 

2.16-2.21 

brOaDWaY aCrOss ameriCa: 

LeGaLLY bLOnDe 

The hilarious MGM film is now a smash 

hit musical, and now “Legally Blonde, 

The Musical” is coming to Oregon. 

Portland; portlandopera.org 

3.13-3.27 

POrtLanD ePiCUrean 

eXCUrsiOn 

Taste foods, sip drinks and meet 

artisans and vendors in their shops 

while exploring the Pearl District. 

Portland; portlandwalkingtours.com 

3.23-3.28 

brOaDWaY aCrOss ameriCa: 

Cats 

There’s no better way to introduce 

your family to the wonders of live 

theater than with the magic, the 

mystery, the memory of CATS. Portland; 

portlandopera.org 

3.29 

GOUrmet's rUth reiChL 

Reichl is a long time editor-in-chief 

of Gourmet magazine and the former 

food critic for the New York Times and 

Los Angeles Times. 

Portland; literary-arts.org 

503.222.0001 monaco-portland.com 

1859 OreGOn's maGazine WINTER 2010 77 

>> Real Estate Guide for Portland Metro 

at 1859magazine.com

Southern Oregon Getaway Guide 

1.1-3.31 

FIRST FRIDAY ART WALK 

Ashland Gallery Association presents 

the First Friday Art Walk. Come see the 

latest exhibits and meet local artists 

through a self-guided art walk. 

Ashland; ashlandgalleries.com 

1.1-4.24 

snowshoe crater lake 

The fun way to experience the winter 

wonderland of Crater Lake while 

discovering how snow shapes the park’s 

landscape and how plants and animals 

survive the winter. The ranger-led walks 

at the beautiful Crater Lake National 

Park are offered at 1 p.m. every Saturday 

and Sunday. Crater Lake; nps.gov/crla 

1.1-3.28 

Crater lake film 

Mirror of Heaven is an 18-minute film 

that examines the human history of 

Crater Lake, from the Native Americans who 

witnessed the volcano’s collapse to the gold 

prospectors who stumbled across the lake in 

the 1850s. Crater Lake; nps.gov/crla 

1.1-3.31 

WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHY 

Wildlife photography on display at The 

Ledge. Klamath Falls; 541.882.5586 

1.1-3.31 

PAINTINGS AND PHOTOGRAPHY 

Paintings by Glenda Lehrman, Paula 

Walborn, Ruth Hollis, and Joyce Miles 

and photography by Jack Noller are now 

on display. Klamath Falls; 541.850.4500 

1.1-3.31 

TRIBAL BASKETRY EXHIBIT 

Displays include baskets, artifacts, 

and historical memorabilia of the 

Klamath and Modoc tribes. Chiloquin; 

541.782.2239 

1.1-3.31 

Tour historic jacksonville 

Situated in the heart of southern Oregon, 

Jacksonville is a town of fascinating 

history and immense charm. Daily tours. 

Jacksonville; ashland-tours.com 

1.1-3.31 

Snowshoe/ski tours 

Ski tour and snowshoe the southern 

Oregon mountains and valleys with 

a guide. Ashland; ashland-tours.com 

>> Lodging Guide for Southern Oregon 


Tour the Kitchens of Harry & David, Medford 

What does 50 pounds of Moose Munch popcorn look 

like? How do they make so many different kinds of 

Truffles? Is their Baklava really made by hand? Answers 

to these and more questions are waiting for you on the 

Harry & David Tours. See how Harry & David make Americas 

favorite treats and taste a few of them yourself! 

877.322.8000 harryanddavid.com 

Weasku Inn, Grants Pass 

Set on the banks of the Wild and Scenic Rogue River, 

Weashku Inn had been a Hollywood darling, with 

visits from Clark Gable, Carole Lombard and Walt 

Disney. A decade ago, the inn's five rooms and 11 

riverfront cabins underwent a renovation that puts 

luxury into the wilderness. 

541.471.8000 weaskuinn.com 

78 1859 oregon's magazine winter 2010 

Ashland Springs Hotel 

An elegantly restored historic landmark in the heart 

of downtown Ashland, next to Oregon Shakespeare 

Festival theatres offers 70 tastefully appointed guest 

rooms, an English garden, a banquet/conference space 

and delicious food. Its restaurant, Larks, celebrates Oregon's 

farms, orchards, vineyards & chocolatiers. 

541.488.1700 ashlandspringshotel.com 

Lela’s Café, Ashland 

Romantic and charming with a casual and graceful French Bistro 

ambiance, Lela’s cuisine is simple but elegant combining 

classic French preparation techniques with fresh ingredients 

from the Pacific Northwest. The menu features locally grown 

and seasonal products from the abundant farms, dairies and 

vineyards of the Rogue Valley. 

541.482.1702 lelascafe.com 

Jacksonville Inn 

Located in a National Historic Landmark town, the Jacksonville 

Inn offers eight elegantly decorated hotel rooms, 

modernized for comfort with whirlpool tubs, steam showers, 

air-conditioning, and four luxurious honeymoon cottages 

that cater to romance and privacy. The gourmet dinner 

house has a selection of more than 2,000 wines. 

800.321.9344 jacksonvilleinn.com

Southern Oregon Getaway Guide 

Rogue Creamery Cheese Shop, Central Point 

Since 1935 the Rogue Creamery has preserved the old 

world tradition of Artisan handmade cheese. Their Rogue 

River Blue won "Best Blue Cheese in the World" at the 2003 

World Cheese Awards in London. Daily Cheese Tasting 

at the historic cheese shop, with an extensive selection 

of Rogue Valley wine, Italian wine, and gourmet foods. 

866.665.1155 roguecreamery.com 

Chateaulin Restaurant Français, 

Ashland 

Walk into Chateaulin and you'll be transported to 

Lyon, France. Whether you go for the award-winning 

wine list, the three-course prix fixe dinner, the classic 

martinis from the bar, or the French cuisine and 

atmosphere, you'll be happy you did. 

541.482.2264 chateaulin.com 

The Running Y Ranch, Klamath Falls 

Nestled in the heart of the breathtaking beauty of 

Southern Oregons Cascade mountains, this recreational 

community features Oregons only award-winning 

Arnold Palmer golf course. Amenities also include lodge 

hotel, vacation rentals, day spa, town center with shops 

and the four season recreation of Southern Oregon. 

Lodging and adventure packages available. 

866.975.1857 visitrunningy.com 

4 Daughters Irish Pub, Medford 

This pub is a family owned and operated restaurant 

bringing an authentic Irish experience to downtown 

Medford. Offering a light n' lively atmosphere, Irish 

drinks and fare, plus live music five nights a week, 

4 Daughters is Southern Oregon's best spot for the 

tastes and sounds of the Old Eire. 

541.779.4455 4daughtersirishpub.com 

Standing Stone Brewing Company, Ashland 

Standing Stone Brewing Co. is located in downtown Ashland. 

The restaurant has a centrally located "display" kitchen 

which features delectable fare. Watch as the chefs bake their 

signature pizzas in the wood fired oven. A children's menu 

and friendly service make Standing Stone an ideal choice 

for the whole family. 

1.22-2.28 

Rogue valley symphony 

Violinist Catherine Manoukian plays, 

Darko Butorac conducts Brahms, 

Bach and Tchaikovsky 1.22-1.24). 

Cellist Rhonda Rider plays, Peter 

Rubardt conducts Hayden, Dvorak and 

Shostakovich (2. 26-2.28). 

1.23 

BAVARIAN NIGHT 

All Twilight lift ticket proceeds go to 

the Mt. Ashland Ski Patrol. Live music, 

fireworks, ski patrol auction. Ashland; 

mtashland.com 

2.1-3.31 

FIRST FRIDAY ART NIGHT 

On on the first Friday night of the 

month, Grants Pass comes alive with 

music and art. 6-9 p.m. 

Grants Pass; 541.787.7357 

2.6 

Bird walk the rogue valley 

The Klamath Bird Observatory and 

the Northwest Nature Shop sponsor 

free monthly bird walks around the 

Rogue Valley area the first Saturday 

of the month. The walks are led by 

an experienced birder from Klamath 

Bird Observatory. Ashland; birds@ 

northwestnatureshop.com 

2.7 

MT. ASHLAND SLOPE STYLE 

Come enjoy family-friendly fun and 

participate in slope style competition. 

Held in the Center Stage Terrain Park, 

this fun event is open to all ages. 

Ashland; mtashland.com 

3.19 

medford art walk 

There's nothing like good company, 

good food and beverage, and music 

to warm up a March evening. Add 

to this, fine art and poetry readings, 

gallery openings, restaurant 

challenges, and your imagination, 

and you have this month's 3rd 

Friday Art Walk in downtown 

Medford;thirdfridayartwalk.org 

541.482.2448 standingstonebrewing.com 


>> Recreation Guide for Southern Oregon 

at 1859magazine.com

Willamette Valley Getaway Guide 

12.31-1.3 

THE MARRIAGE OF FIGARO 

From the world famous overture to the 

heart-stopping tenderness of the finale, 

this opera is Mozart at his absolute best. 

The Saturday show is “Figaro for the 

Family.” Eugene; eugeneopera.com 

1.1-1.8 

ARTIST: SUSAN WEATHERS 

Beautiful and colorful transparent 

watercolors depicting still life’s, 

scenes, land and seascapes from 

an award-winning artist and art 

instructor. Florence; florenceartists.com 

1.1-2.28 

DOWN TO EARTH 

Stunning photographs of our ever-changing 

planet, taken by University of Oregon 

Department of Geological Sciences graduate 

students and faculty members. Eugene; 

natural-history.uoregon.edu 

1.1-3.27 

LIVE GLASSBLOWING 

Experience the exciting world of hot glass 

in motion, in addition to a multitude 

of contemporary art works. Eugene; 

visitstudiowest.com 

1.1-1.10 

VERY VICTORIAN 

HOLIDAYS EXHIBIT 

Eugene’s Victorian House Museum 

is festively decorated with traditional, 

creative and handmade items, and a tree 

in every room. Eugene; smjhouse.org 

1.18 

martin luther king jr. 

A celebration of Martin Luther King Jr. 

that includes keynote speaker, Damali 

Ayo, known for her art, wit and bestselling 

book How to Rent a Negro; and 

the Civil Rights Community Choir . At 

Silvia Hall, Eugene; hultcenter.org 

1.29-1.31 

life of the mind 

Augustine’s Confessions: A brilliant 

young Roman philosopher recounts his 

dissolute early life, his search for truth 

and gradual conversion to Christianity, 

meditating on themes like memory, time, 

and the soul. The first autobiography, a 

founding document of the Middle Ages, 

still fascinating and profound, it’s on 

every list of Great Books. 

Ponzi Wine Bar 

Located in downtown Dundee, the Ponzi Wine Bar 

offers an opportunity to taste wines from more than 

140 top Oregon vintners. Flights are available, as well 

as wine by the glass, bottle or case. The wine bar also 

offers microbrews on draught, Italian coffee, appetizers, 

and information on wine and touring. 

503.554.1500 ponziwinebar.com 

Campbell House, Eugene 

Built in 1892, the historic Campbell House is as 

elegant as it is classic. Eat at the formal dining room 

or walk to nearby restaurants and events at the 

Hult Center. 

541.343.2258 campbellhouse.com 

Lange Estate Winery and Vineyards, Dundee 

This gorgeous winery delivers beautifully balanced 

wines from fruit grown on the Lange Winery Estate, 

located in the heart of the prestigious Dundee Hillls. 

With panoramic views of the Cascade Mountain 

Range and two valleys, a visit to Lange Estate Winery 

is an experience not to be missed. 

503.538.6476 langewinery.com 

Anne Amie Vineyards, carlton 

Pinot reigns supreme at Anne Amie Vineyards with Pinot 

noir, Pinot gris and Pinot blanc forming the heart of our 

production. A vineyard and winery tour is offered at 11 a.m. 

daily with reservation (Wednesday through Sunday). The 

tour is followed by a private tasting of select wines which 

include reserve tasting and an Oregon Pinot noir glass. 

503.864.2991 anneamie.com 

Beppe & Gianni's Trattoria, Eugene 

Voted Eugene’s best Italian restaurant for the past 

eight years, family-owned Beppe & Gianni’s dishes 

up delicious pasta made fresh every day. Offering an 

extended Italian wine list and a friendly atmosphere, 

this eatery is committed to using only the best local 

ingredients in their alimentary creations. 

541.683.6661 beppeandgiannis.net 

>> Dining Guide for Willamette Valley 



Willamette Valley getaway guide 

PUDDIN' RIVER CHOCOLATES & WINEBAR, CANBY 

willamette Valley's favorite for european-style chocolates, 

specialty desserts and gifts; quaint bistro dining for lunch 

and dinner featuring locally-grown produce, wines, and 

beer; catering for parties and special events. new offerings 

include wine tastings, cooking classes, theme music 

nights, happy hour appetizers and guest musicians. 

503.263.2626 www.puddinriver.com 

HARRY RITCHIE'S JEWELERS 

Harry ritchies is where Oregon gets engaged, with the exclusive 

Love Story diamond brand, and an extensive 

selection of beautiful wedding sets to fit any style and 

budget! Create your own Chamilia bracelet or necklace 

to celebrate your style with sterling silver, 14k gold, Murano 

glass, Swarovski crystals and more. 

541.385.5299 harryritchies.com 

MARCHÉ, EUGENE 

Fresh seasonal foods from the local market, or 

marché, served in wonderful French cuisine. this restaurant, 

in downtown eugene, has all the trimmings 

and ambience of a classic French bistro. 

541.342.3612 marcherestaurant.com 

KING ESTATE WINERY, EUGENE 

King estate, founded in 1991 by the King family, is 

a leading Oregon producer of Pinot gris and Pinot 

noir. the 1,033-acre estate is certified organic. King 

estate's restaurant and wine Bar features wine tasting, 

winery tours and fine dining, with a menu of 

estate-grown and locally grown organic ingredients. 

541.942.9874 kingestate.com 

WILD PEAR RESTAURANT, SALEM 

Specializing in northwest Cuisine with Asian & european 

influences. Dishes are made from scratch with 

local ingredients by creative chefs. Located in the 

heart of downtown Salem, in a beautifully restored 

circa 1880 building, wild Pear is the favorite lunch 

spot among hip Salemites and beyond. 

503.378.7515 wildpearcatering.com 

1.29-1.31 

oregon TrUFFLe FesTiVaL 

Join in a celebration of Oregon truffles, 

from their hidden source in the forest 

to their glory on the table. eugene; 

oregontrufflefestival.com 

2.5 

WWii-era reVUe 

with a big band orchestra, singers and 

dancers, in the Mood presents a retro 

1940s musical with the songs that 

moved a nation's spirit and helped 

win a war. Celebrating its 16th season 

of touring nationwide, in the Mood 

captures the swing era through the 

music of the Andrews Sisters, Glenn 

Miller, Frank Sinatra, Benny Goodman, 

Artie Shaw and other big band greats 

with authentic costumes, arrangements 

and swing dance routines. eugene; 

hultcenter.org 

2.6 

inT'L CaPeLLa CHamPionsHiP 

elite singing groups from the Pacific 

northwest descend on Silvial Hall to 

compete for the the coveted title of the 

iCCA Quarterfinal Champion. eugene; 

hultcenter.org 

2.16 

amazonia: PHoToJoUrnaL 

Over a series of years, beginning in 

2003, noted national Geographic 

photographer Sam Abell traveled along 

the Amazon taking photographs of its 

wild beauty. this traveling exhibition 

come to the Jordan Schnitzer Museum 

of Art and documents one of the 

earth’s remaining natural ecosystems – 

the headwaters of the Amazon river in 

Peru. eugene; uoregon.edu 

2.19 

THe HarLem gLoBeTroTTers 

now in their 84th year, the Harlem 

Globetrotters, play McArthur Court at 

the University of Oregon. uoregon.edu 

2.27 

THe CLaY BaLL 

Celebrate the arts during this spirited 

and fun-filled evening which includes 

a wine reception, elegant three-course 

dinner and art auctions featuring top 

regional artists. Salem; 503.5821.2228 


>> Travel Guide for Willamette Valley 

at 1859magazine.com

Oregon Living 

Oregon Quotient 

What’s 

Your OQ ? 

This man is an Oregonian who is tangentially 

related to one of the stories in this issue of 1859 

Oregon's Magazine. His real passion was trees but 

he dabbled in trains and water. Thrice married 

and twice divorced, this Norwegian personified 

bootstrapper after emigrating to Oregon. His name 

is ubiquitous around Oregon for various education 

and development projects. 

Photo courtesy OSF 

Who is this Norwegian transplant 

and what role did he play in one of the stories in this issue? 

answer for a chance to win 

Answer this question at 1859magazine.com and win 

a chance for a luxury weekend at The Oxford Hotel 

in downtown Bend. 


Map of Oregon 

1859's Oregon 

The points of interest below are culled from 

stories and events in this edition of 1859 . 

2 

4 

10 

8 

1 

5 

12 

11 

6 

9 

3 

7 

Illustration by Steller Design, stellerdesign.com 

1 steelhead Train [page 53] 

Grab some buddies and fish this 

winter's steelhead run in Eastern 

Oregon by hopping on the Steelhead 

Train in Minam, Oregon. 

2 Perfect storms [page 54] 

Head out to Seaside and other 

coastal spots to watch storms 

blow in off the Pacific. Feel free 

to move about the coast to find 

that perfect storm. 

3 

good Hike: 

Badlands [page 50] 

An off-beat temperate winter 

retreat is a long hike in the 

natural desert of the Badlands. 

Recently deemed wilderness, 

the juniper- and bird-laden area 

is a nice respite outside of Bend. 

4 Trailrunning nirvana [page 49] 

Portland's urban wilderness, Forest 

Park, has 5,100 acres in which to 

jumpstart your trailrunning resolutions. 

Trails peek out on the Pittock 

Mansion and eventually to the 

Oregon Zoo. 

5 Winter golf [page 54] 

Play legendary Bandon Dunes golf 

course for off-season rates of $75 

and $90 in January and February, 

respectively. No really, Honey, I'm 

just trying to save us a little money. 

mt. Bailey 

6 

Cat-skiing [page 50] 

World class backcountry skiing in 

the southern Cascades with highly 

trained mountain guides. Mt. Bailey 

serves fresh tracks almost daily. 

7 

Hwy 20 

reconsidered [page 20] 

Often framed as the most boring 

stretch of road in Oregon, Highway 

20 is one the most historically and 

geographically bountiful. Also go to 

1859magazine.com for a mile-by-mile 

interactive road map of this gem. 

8 elkhorn mountains' Deity 

One of OPB's Steve Amen's favorite 

winter jaunts, the Elkhorn Mountains 

are home to an elusive Native American 

deity who safekeeps the valley. 

Read more at 1859magazine.com. 

9 Yurt skiing [page 15] 

Newly established yurts in the Three 

Sisters Wildness open up backcountry 

adventures to the willing. 

10 off Broadway [page 77] 

In its Broadway Across America 

series, The Portland Opera trots out 

Xanadu, Legally Blonde and CATS 

in January, February and March, 

respectively. Details in Calendar. 

11 Truffle Ticket [page 80] 

The Oregon Truffle Festival in January 

is a fantastic feast of fungi. The 

Oregon truffle is a rare delicacy that 

tastes wonderful in these Franco- 

Oregonian dishes. 

12 Winter Folk [page 72] 

Misty River and The Brothers Four 

are headlining acts for Florence's 

Winter Folk Festival January 23-24. 

See Calendar for more information.

Winter 2010

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