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<strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2010</strong><br />
WINTER ADVENTURE ISSUE<br />
Oregon’s<br />
Greatest<br />
Ski Trek<br />
300 miles from<br />
Mt. Hood to<br />
Crater Lake<br />
<strong>Winter</strong><br />
adventure secrets<br />
from locals<br />
Crabbing<br />
season and tasty<br />
crab recipes<br />
Oregon Brewing:<br />
a retrospective<br />
Jack<br />
Meissner’s<br />
1948 journey<br />
page 40>><br />
Small houses<br />
designed to<br />
live large<br />
Olympic<br />
insider predicts<br />
Vancouver<br />
medalists<br />
WINTER <strong>2010</strong><br />
$4.95US<br />
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Shimmering Stones<br />
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Features<br />
<strong>Winter</strong> ’10<br />
32<br />
Liquid Courage<br />
More than 150 years ago,<br />
Germans Henry Saxer and Henry<br />
Weinhard laid the foundation for<br />
today’s brewing juggernaut that<br />
has Oregon at the pinnacle of<br />
innovative brewing. The trail to<br />
the top, however, is strewn with<br />
fascinating political drama.<br />
by Bob woodward<br />
with Laurel Bennett<br />
40<br />
Oregon's Greatest<br />
Ski Adventure<br />
He left Mt. Hood on a cold<br />
February day in 1948 with Crater<br />
Lake on his mind. War veteran and<br />
skilled trapper Jack Meissner, began<br />
a 300-mile journey that was ridiculed<br />
as foolhardy, but sixty-two years later,<br />
it stands as one of the truly great<br />
unrepeated outdoor feats<br />
in Oregon lore.<br />
by annemarie hamlin<br />
On the Cover:<br />
A 28-year-old Jack Meissner in one<br />
of the rare photos surviving his trek.<br />
Photograph from Meissner's<br />
personal scrapbook.<br />
1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong> 7
Making our relationship one of<br />
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With over 200 years of combined experience, our team<br />
has been helping families in the Pacific Northwest pursue<br />
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Financial Advisor<br />
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Departments<br />
56<br />
20<br />
23<br />
30<br />
62<br />
26<br />
<strong>Winter</strong> ’10<br />
<strong>Winter</strong><br />
Adventure<br />
Issue<br />
47<br />
Around the State<br />
14<br />
18<br />
20<br />
Oregon Notebook<br />
Events around Oregon, spring break resort<br />
packages, book reviews, and exclusives you<br />
don’t want to miss at 1859magazine.com<br />
Sound Off<br />
Oregon land-use laws dance between public<br />
good and private property rights. Where do<br />
you draw the line?<br />
Road Reconsidered<br />
A history buff proves Highway 20 is not only<br />
not the most boring drive in the state, it may<br />
be one of our most historically and geologically<br />
rich stretches of road<br />
Local Habit<br />
23<br />
26<br />
28<br />
30<br />
Artist in Residence<br />
Quantum physics meet metaphysics in the<br />
sculptures of Portland’s Julian Voss-Andreae<br />
Top 5<br />
Off the court and on the town with Portland<br />
Trail Blazers’ rising star, Brandon Roy<br />
From Where I Stand<br />
A ski coach finds the good life in recreationrich<br />
Government Camp<br />
What I'm Working On<br />
NBC and Universal Sports' man on the mountain<br />
and Bend resident, Steve Porino<br />
1859MaGaZine.coM<br />
Join us to discuss your favorite book or to read a review of what we’re<br />
reading at the 1859 Literary Cafe • Tell us your favorite beer and recreation<br />
pairings • Cooking with beer • OPB's Steve Amen divulges<br />
his favorite winter getaways • Win a weekend package<br />
Oregon Living<br />
47<br />
56<br />
62<br />
70<br />
82<br />
83<br />
Outd ooregon<br />
From cheap golf to hut skiing: An insider’s<br />
stash of winter recreational ideas<br />
Design<br />
Reduce, recycle and downsize: Two small<br />
homes that live large and green<br />
Home Grown<br />
Oregon Dungeness crabbers get under way;<br />
and recipes that will have you craving the sea<br />
Getaway Guide<br />
Plan your next Oregon adventure with our<br />
statewide calendars and travel guides<br />
Oregon Quotient<br />
Test your Oregon intelligence, and enter to win<br />
a getaway weekend in Oregon<br />
1859's Oregon Map<br />
A handy map of Oregon with points of<br />
interest from this issue<br />
1859 OREGON'S MAGAZINE WINTER <strong>2010</strong> 9
Editor’s Letter<br />
Kevin Max<br />
Editor, 1859 Oregon's Magazine<br />
Beer and adventure are central themes<br />
in this issue, as well as many of our lives. After spending a good<br />
long autumn in a dirty affair with cyclocross racing, I’m constantly<br />
reminded that adventure should (almost) always precede beer.<br />
When the adventure comes first, you amuse yourself. When beer<br />
takes precedent, you become the amusement of others.<br />
The features in the winter issue of 1859 strike<br />
a balance between an incredibly daring ski<br />
adventure, that stretches the length of the<br />
state, and a chronicle of the determined people<br />
and forces that shaped today’s craft brewing<br />
culture throughout Oregon.<br />
<strong>Winter</strong> is not uniform in Oregon. It comes<br />
early as a white blanket along the spine of the<br />
Cascades, then later in the form of rain and<br />
mild temperatures in the Willamette Valley<br />
and along the coast. In February 1948, winter<br />
was in full swing when WWII veteran Jack<br />
Meissner strapped on cross-country skis and<br />
departed from Mt. Hood for Crater Lake, 300<br />
miles south. “Oregon’s Greatest Ski Adventure”<br />
(page 40) documents Meissner’s bold<br />
journey through the Cascades, in and out of<br />
storms, across lakes he was somewhat certain<br />
would not crack under him and into lore as<br />
Oregon’s most risky backcountry adventure.<br />
As Meissner discovered, sometimes it’s what<br />
a man has to do to find the right wife.<br />
A less conventional, but equally nurturing<br />
marriage is that of Oregon and craft<br />
beer. Even while sales of beer’s megaproducers<br />
slumped the past twelve months,<br />
the sale of craft beer has increased as we<br />
strive to support local businesses and pursue<br />
quality. We explore the early dignitaries<br />
of Oregon brewing who were blindsided<br />
by dignified troops of Temperance then<br />
sidelined by Prohibition before rebuilding<br />
the foundation for today’s avant garde craft<br />
beer culture ("Liquid Courage," page 32).<br />
By now the in-laws have gone back to<br />
Minnesota—a state which my 7-year-old<br />
daughter thinks is home to all grandmothers.<br />
(True, she’s never been to Florida.)<br />
Cabin fever has set in. Lucky for us, Oregon<br />
brings a myriad of choices for winter<br />
getaways. From off-piste hut skiing in the<br />
Wallowas to off-season golf at Bandon<br />
Dunes, 1859’s “Destination Oregon: 10<br />
Cures for Cabin Fever” on page 47 will get<br />
you going.<br />
Also, don’t miss Bend resident and<br />
NBC and Universal Sports commentator<br />
Steve Porino’s early picks for the medals<br />
in the Alpine events of the <strong>Winter</strong> Olympics<br />
in “What I’m Working On” (page<br />
30). As NBC’s man on the mountain in<br />
Vancouver, a former U.S. Ski Team member<br />
and a World Cup racer, Porino shares<br />
more detail about these skiers than his<br />
TV spot allows.<br />
Finally, all good things end in food and,<br />
in our case, Dungeness crab. In “Home<br />
Grown” (page 62), we begin with a glimpse<br />
of the life of third-generation crabber Corey<br />
Rock. Oregon is the top producing<br />
Dungeness crab state and practices the<br />
highest standards of sustainability. Our<br />
own Home Grown Chef serves up crab<br />
sliders in a delicious green curry mayonnaise<br />
and chef John Newman of Newmans<br />
at 988 in Cannon Beach dishes his twist<br />
on crab cakes with lemon aioli and candied<br />
lemon zest. Save the rest of the lemon<br />
for your Hefeweisen. Cheers!<br />
10 1859 OREGON'S MAGAZINE WINTER <strong>2010</strong><br />
Photo Jon Tapper
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MtHoodViews.com<br />
Actual views<br />
from lots!<br />
Homes that rival their views<br />
Editor<br />
Kevin Max<br />
Creative Director<br />
Anouk Tapper<br />
executive editor<br />
Sarah Max<br />
Advertising director<br />
Ross Johnson<br />
publisher<br />
Heather Huston Johnson<br />
Advertising associates<br />
Sonja Meixler, Lauren Wilson<br />
Contributing writers<br />
Anne Aurand, Laurel Bennett, Cathy Carroll, Lisa Glickman,<br />
Addie Hahn, Annemarie Hamlin, Lars Svenska, Bob Woodward<br />
Contributing photographers<br />
Joni Kabana, Jon Tapper, Paula Watts, Bob Woodward<br />
Artist sketches<br />
Paul Harris<br />
Communications director<br />
Claudia Johnson<br />
Special thanks<br />
Heather Baro, Laurie Fox, Jared Lugo,<br />
Oregon Public Broadcasting, United Tile<br />
Published by<br />
Deschutes Media, LLC<br />
550 Industrial Way, Suite 24<br />
Bend, OR 97702<br />
541.550.7081/fax 541.306.6510<br />
Subscribe to 1859 Oregon's Magazine<br />
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and is printed on FSC Certified paper from West Linn, Oregon.<br />
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responsible for the return of unsolicited materials. The views and opinions expressed in these articles are<br />
not necessarily those of 1859 Oregon's Magazine, Deschutes Media, or its employees, staff or management.
Around the State<br />
Notebook<br />
running y ranCh<br />
www.runningyranch.com<br />
Unwind at the relaxing Running Y Lodge<br />
in southern Oregon’s beautiful Klamath<br />
Falls area. Enjoy horseback riding, a<br />
renovated Sandhill spa, hiking and biking<br />
trails and the nearby ice skating arena.<br />
Situated along the “Pacific Flyway,” some<br />
of the best bird-watching happens at the<br />
Running Y Ranch’s wetlands.<br />
brasaDa ranCh<br />
www.brasada.com<br />
Retreat to the Central Oregon high desert<br />
with Brasada Ranch’s equestrian center,<br />
pools, hot tubs and fitness center. Dining<br />
at Blue Olive restaurant is wonderful with<br />
its classic Northwest-style salmon, crabs<br />
and lamb.<br />
eagle Crest resort<br />
www.eagle-crest.com<br />
Hoodoo skiing by day and hot tubs or<br />
spas by night. The Eagle Crest ski package<br />
starts at $139 for two ski passes and one<br />
night’s lodging for two at the Inn at Eagle<br />
Crest. Two nights lodging in a vacation<br />
rental and four ski passes start at $418.<br />
blaCk butte ranCh<br />
www.blackbutteranch.com<br />
With an overnight accommodation, get<br />
one adult lift ticket and up to four kids’<br />
Autobahn passes to Hoodoo. Spring golf<br />
packages start at $129 per person. The<br />
package includes overnight accommodations<br />
in a vacation rental, unlimited golf<br />
with cart, practice balls prior to play and a<br />
$40 gift card per occupied unit, per night.<br />
The gift card can be used for dining, merchandise,<br />
spa, bike rentals or other activities.<br />
The package runs through June 17.<br />
P L A N N I N G A H E A D<br />
Spring Break<br />
in Cabo San Oregon<br />
PLACES, RESORTS, RECREATION<br />
Sunday, March 12 set your<br />
clock ahead one hour for<br />
daylight-saving time, then save<br />
some money by going local for<br />
Spring Break this year. Here<br />
are some Oregon resorts that<br />
would love to have you.<br />
salishan spa & golF resort<br />
www.salishan.com<br />
Done skiing? <strong>Winter</strong> golf on Oregon’s<br />
capricious coast at Salishan is a beautiful<br />
change of scenery. South of Lincoln City<br />
on an ocean jetty, lies one of Oregon’s<br />
top-rated destinations for golfers and<br />
vacationers. If weather is inhospitable,<br />
there’s a spa, tennis courts, a pool and<br />
loads of activities for kids.<br />
sunriver<br />
www.sunriver-resort.com<br />
Home to some of the best golfing on<br />
the planet, Sunriver is also the most fully<br />
developed vacation resort in Oregon. Get<br />
three days of skiing at Mt. Bachelor and<br />
three nights of lodging starting at $119 per<br />
person per day. Kids ski free and stay free.<br />
Nearby cross-country skiing and then<br />
ice skating at the Village Mall. A full Sage<br />
Springs spa will cure any winter blues.<br />
wilD horse resort & Casino<br />
www.wildhorseresort.com<br />
Add a cultural facet to your Superbowl<br />
weekend with a stop-over at Pendleton's<br />
Wild Horse Resort and the Tamástslikt<br />
Museum’s exhibit, “A Litany of Salmon."<br />
Of course there’s golf and gambling then<br />
shopping for your next pair of cowboy<br />
boots in Pendleton, one of Oregon’s true<br />
cowboy towns.<br />
mount baChelor<br />
village resort<br />
www.mtbachelorvillage.com<br />
Dive into the middle of a winter sports<br />
mecca at Mount Bachelor Village in<br />
Bend. Lodging deals with Mt. Bachelor<br />
ski tickets, nearby cross-country skiing<br />
and downtown Bend. Hiking the adjacent<br />
Deschutes River Trail is a must. Two-night<br />
stays include $50 discounts at some of<br />
Bend’s best breweries, shopping at the<br />
Old Mill District or skiing at Mt. Bachelor.<br />
Photo Jon Tapper<br />
14 1859 OREGON'S MAGAZINE WINTER <strong>2010</strong>
Notebook<br />
Around the State<br />
<strong>Winter</strong><br />
Adventure<br />
Two Yurts: Three Sisters<br />
backcountry skiing in the three sisters wilderness gets a<br />
little more cozy. a wood-fired sauna and two wood-stove<br />
heated 20-foot yurts now sit at the base of tam mcarthur<br />
rim in the three sisters wilderness, thanks to three sisters<br />
backcountry (threesistersbackcountry.com).<br />
WHY GO: The huts are located six miles and 1,000 feet<br />
above the Three Creeks Sno-park with a variety of terrain<br />
including open bowls, glades, couloirs, gentle meadows<br />
and steep chutes.<br />
AMENITIES: The huts are furnished with padded bunks,<br />
dining table, wood stove, firewood and maps of local<br />
terrain. The cooking yurt has a full kitchen, dining and<br />
lounge area. The kitchen is stocked with dishes, utensils,<br />
cookware and fuel for the stove. Between the two yurts,<br />
there is ample room for twelve skiers to spread their gear<br />
and relax. Choose from self-guided and self-catered options<br />
or go fully guided and/or catered.<br />
BONUS: You can request a keg of beer from Sisters’ Three<br />
Creeks Brewery to be hauled up to the yurt.<br />
Photo Kevin Grove<br />
CALENDAR:<br />
Make a splash around the<br />
state, make some noise in<br />
Heppner and then make for<br />
northeastern Oregon<br />
GOOD CAUSE<br />
polar plunge oregon<br />
Jan. 30-Feb. 26, many locations<br />
Polar Plunge Oregon promises to take<br />
your breath away, but not before you<br />
make a world of difference in raising<br />
money for Special Olympics Oregon (soor.<br />
org/plunge). There will be no shortage<br />
of cold water to dive into in <strong>2010</strong>, with<br />
plunges slated for Portland, Bend and<br />
three new chilly dips planned for Eugene,<br />
Corvallis and Medford. Polar Plunge is<br />
brought to you by Law Enforcement Torch<br />
Rub and sponsored by local businesses.<br />
It is open to the public, and all spectators<br />
are welcome free of charge. Participants<br />
must raise a minimum of $50 for the<br />
privilege of taking a wintry dip in an icy<br />
body of water and will receive a commemorative<br />
long-sleeve t-shirt and a<br />
bowl of soup, plus bragging rights.<br />
C’mon, it’s only water!<br />
Portland: January 30<br />
Medford: February 6<br />
Eugene: February 20<br />
Corvallis: February 20<br />
Bend: February 26<br />
PARADE<br />
st. patrick’s Day march<br />
march 12-14, heppner<br />
Heppner, Oregon is an Irish community<br />
that makes celebrating its Irish heritage<br />
an annual tradition. It is always celebrated<br />
the weekend before St. Patricks Day. In<br />
<strong>2010</strong>, the Wee Bit O' Ireland St. Patricks<br />
Celebration weekend includes family flags<br />
hung throughout the town, a great green<br />
parade, sheep dog trials, an Irish Bowling<br />
competition, plenty of Irish music and entertainment.<br />
For a full schedule of events,<br />
call the Heppner Chamber of Commerce<br />
at 541.676.5536.<br />
SPORTS<br />
eagle Cap extreme<br />
January 14-16, Joseph<br />
Join some of mushing’s greatest January<br />
14-16 in Joseph for Oregon’s only<br />
Iditarod and Yukon Quest qualifier as<br />
racers launch into the Eagle Cap Extreme.<br />
Sled dog racers cut through the<br />
Wallowa and Whitman national forests<br />
in 100-mile and 200-mile events that<br />
finish at Ferguson Ridge Ski Area, or<br />
Fergi. What better time to see the<br />
Switzerland of Oregon? Bring your skis<br />
and skates to make it a full weekend of<br />
skiing at Fergi, then head to Enterprise<br />
for the outdoor community skating<br />
rink. Of historical note in the nine-year<br />
life of this 152-foot by 78-foot rink:<br />
Schools let out early last January, when<br />
the Portland <strong>Winter</strong> Hawks came out to<br />
skate. The local team, Baja Canada Ehs,<br />
is the foundation for an interstate league.<br />
Go Ehs!<br />
1859 OREGON'S MAGAZINE WINTER <strong>2010</strong> 15
Around the State<br />
Notebook<br />
1859’s Literary Cafe<br />
BOOK REVIEW: voracious reader, Claudia hinz, opens 1859’s literary<br />
Cafe with a review of Dear Husband short stories and Strength in What<br />
Remains at 1859magazine.com. Discuss these books as well as oregon<br />
authors under the art section at 1859magazine.com.<br />
“Worse yet are certain things that have been hidden.”<br />
But what could possibly be “worse yet” when Lauri Lynn has<br />
just drowned her four children in the bath tub and lined up their<br />
bodies to await the police? In so many of these stories, horror<br />
lurks quite literally underfoot, far more insidious than the “hidden”<br />
burnt mac and cheese casserole dish tucked below the cellar<br />
steps, the real mark of Lauri Lynn’s failure as a housewife,<br />
she confesses. In Dear Husband, Joyce Carol Oates’ subjects are<br />
the stuff of crime stories: manslaughter, infanticide, abuse, drug<br />
addiction, and disfiguring injuries. Even in the satirical piece,<br />
“Suicide by Fitness Center,” Oates plays with the conventions<br />
of a horror story, invoking a ghostly cat and an unsuspecting<br />
victim, the overweight man who threatens to cardiac arrest in<br />
the weight room.<br />
“There is something about me you should know: a secret.” (“The<br />
Glazers”). Everyone in these stories has something to hide but in<br />
“The Glazers,” we understand that not all secrets are equal, not all<br />
bind or strangle. The fun of reading this collection is the precipitous<br />
unfolding of these secrets and their ramifications. In “Dear<br />
Joyce Carol,” secrets are exposed letter by letter in a deranged<br />
DEAR HUSBAND: STORIES<br />
BY JOYCE CAROL OATES<br />
fan’s correspondence with the author, so that we imagine that<br />
Oates, too, is somehow vulnerable to dangerous secrets.<br />
What remains when these secrets stand in the open, naked in the<br />
“stark and cleansing ... winter sunshine” (“Heart Sutra”), is the lushness<br />
of Oates’ language, a heat you can feel as if she is whispering<br />
her words against your cheek: the thrift store mink coat “ tenderly…<br />
folded on a barstool where it seemed to drowse like a pampered beast”<br />
(“Magda Maria”). Even at the dump, where a frat boy’s body is trashed<br />
becomes "a living, scenic scape” at the Tioga County landfill, itself,<br />
“a gouged, ever-shifting landscape of trash-hills, ravines and valleys,<br />
amid a grinding of dump trucks, bulldozers, cries of swooping and<br />
darting birds …” (“Landfill”). The police report that details the state<br />
of the boy’s body also notes the “pelting rain and vivid yellow forsythia<br />
blooming.” In story after story, Oates lays her victims shoulder to<br />
shoulder with stunning beauty.<br />
With more than one hundred published works, Joyce Carol Oates<br />
truly owns the title “prolific.” Her most recent work may not be for the<br />
faint-hearted, but readers will swoon into the arms of this masterful<br />
storyteller because, as Esdra Abraham Meech, the stalker in “Dear<br />
Joyce Carol” points out, “The Portrait is a beautiful likeness.”<br />
K E E P I N G I T L O C A L<br />
Valentine,s Day Chocolates<br />
OREGON CHOCOLATIERS<br />
Branson’s Chocolates, Ashland<br />
Pegasus Gourmet Chocolates, Bend<br />
Puddin’ River Chocolates, Canby<br />
Lillie Belle Farm, Central Point<br />
Fuddy Duddy Fudge, Depoe Bay<br />
Euphoria Chocolate Company, Eugene<br />
Cary’s of Oregon, Grants Pass<br />
Pete’s Gourmet Confections, Medford<br />
Lulu’s Chocolate, Portland<br />
Moonstruck Chocolates, Portland<br />
Extreme Chocolates, Salem<br />
1859 ONLINE EXCLUSIVES<br />
steve amen’s<br />
top winter places<br />
OPB Field Guide’s Steve Amen walked<br />
us through his favorite summer spots,<br />
now he takes us to his top winter<br />
getaways across Oregon.<br />
road reconsidered<br />
The most “boring” road in Oregon—<br />
Highway 20—becomes the most<br />
storied in the “Road Reconsidered” on<br />
page 20. We were only able to provide<br />
the tip of the iceberg. Dr. Stu Garrett’s<br />
considerable scholarship plays out in<br />
long form as a very interesting read as a<br />
web exclusive at 1859magazine.com.<br />
oregon<br />
brewerism<br />
BEER TOURISM—<br />
brewerism—is burgeoning as an<br />
Oregon industry. First read the brave<br />
history of Oregon breweries in<br />
“Liquid Courage” on page 32, then<br />
go to 1859magazine.com and send<br />
your suggestions for pairing Oregon<br />
brews and recreation.<br />
COOKING WITH BEER—Long<br />
the place of wine to be paired<br />
with food, now chefs and diners<br />
alike are waking up to the benefits<br />
of coupling beers with the right<br />
foods. Deschutes Brewery sous<br />
chef James Ludwicki talks cooking<br />
with beer, béarnaise, and stouts<br />
and desserts.<br />
16 1859 OREGON'S MAGAZINE WINTER <strong>2010</strong>
Around the State<br />
Sound Off<br />
the debate continues<br />
Share your thoughts about land-use issues when<br />
you click on this article at 1859magazine.com<br />
Land Use vs. Property Rights<br />
In 1973, the Oregon Legislature established the Oregon Land Use Act, under which all cities and counties<br />
were required to implement statewide planning goals. Measure 37, passed in 2004, was a partial rebuke<br />
to statewide planning. Measure 49, passed in 2007, effectively countermanded Measure 37. The debate<br />
continues. Are Oregon's land-use laws a public good or an infringement on personal property rights?<br />
Dave Hunnicutt<br />
President, Oregonians in Action<br />
(oia.org)<br />
Both. Any system of zoning and<br />
planning is going to simultaneously<br />
provide public benefits and infringe<br />
upon the rights of private property<br />
owners. The question is how to<br />
strike a proper balance between<br />
these competing interests.<br />
In terms of finding that elusive<br />
balance, Oregon’s controversial and unique land-use system has<br />
performed poorly.<br />
In 1973, the Oregon legislature vested control over zoning and<br />
planning in a single state agency, the Land Conservation and<br />
Development Commission (LCDC). Concentrating the power<br />
for planning and zoning decisions in one agency at the state level<br />
is unique to Oregon. Planning throughout the rest of the country<br />
occurs at the local level, reflecting the characteristics of each<br />
individual community and region.<br />
The result is an Oregon system of regulations that is difficult to<br />
change, slow to respond and overly uniform. This doesn’t work<br />
in a state as geographically and economically diverse as Oregon.<br />
A rancher with a large ranch in Grant County needs different<br />
regulations than a husband and wife with ten acres just outside<br />
Portland. In most cases, however, the regulations are identical.<br />
Likewise, re-drawing an urban growth boundary in a large growing<br />
city should involve much different considerations than with a slowgrowing<br />
community. In each case, both communities are bound<br />
by the same set of state laws, which can only be changed by the<br />
legislature or LCDC.<br />
This lack of flexibility and the application of one-size-fits-all<br />
regulations makes it difficult to strike the balance between the rights<br />
of the property owner and the desires of the public. Oregon would<br />
be wise to rejoin the other states and return control of planning<br />
and zoning decisions to local government, with more limited state<br />
oversight for areas of critical state concern.<br />
Kevin Gorman<br />
Executive Director, Friends of the<br />
Columbia Gorge (gorgefriends.org)<br />
When Measure 37 was put on the ballot<br />
in 2004, it was the ideology of property-rights<br />
infringement that stoked<br />
the passion of its proponents. They<br />
wisely put aside their ideology, however,<br />
and made the case that Measure<br />
37 was about fair compensation for reduced<br />
property values. Unfortunately,<br />
fair-minded Oregonians supported that compensation argument<br />
without getting the full story.<br />
Both the compensation and the infringement arguments harbored<br />
by Measure 37 proponents are built on a house, or rather subdivision,<br />
of cards. In 2007, the American Lands Institute published an<br />
analysis that proved that Oregon’s rural landowners have been well<br />
compensated as a result of the land-use laws. From 1974 – 2004, Oregon’s<br />
rural landowners reaped nearly $4.9 billion in property tax<br />
reductions. One of the biggest investments ever made by Oregon<br />
taxpayers went almost unnoticed because it was funded by so many<br />
residents with small property tax increases and redistributed to<br />
farmers and timber operators. Despite the fact that these subsidies<br />
were provided to offset potential property value losses, Willamette<br />
Valley farmland values outperformed the S&P 500 during the fortyyear<br />
period studied.<br />
As for the argument that Oregon's land-use laws infringe on<br />
property rights, most Oregonians long ago dismissed the notion<br />
that anyone has the right to do whatever they want with their<br />
land. Oregon’s land-use laws saved Oregon farms from becoming<br />
a relic of the past. Today the farm industry generates more<br />
than $4 billion in sales annually. The same land-use laws, applied<br />
in Washington's wine growing region of Klickitat County, saved<br />
agrarian land for vineyards, which would have been lost to development<br />
prior to the wine surge.<br />
It’s time to see Oregon's land-use laws for what they are:<br />
a public and private good.<br />
18 1859 OREGON'S MAGAZINE WINTER <strong>2010</strong>
Take a different way home.<br />
Detour through Asia.<br />
Swing by the Supreme Court.<br />
Swim with steelhead in the Umpqua.<br />
Criss-cross the craters of the moon.<br />
Get swept away in music,<br />
books and film.<br />
Big ideas. Great stories.<br />
News. Art. Life.
Around the State<br />
Road Reconsidered<br />
Highway 20:<br />
Bend to Burns<br />
A sense of challenge arose in Stu Garrett, a doctor, a historian<br />
and Bend resident, when he heard one too many times that<br />
the highway from Bend to Burns was “the most boring road in<br />
Oregon.” Within three years, Garrett produced a manuscript of<br />
historical, geological and ecological scholarship milepost-bymilepost<br />
from Bend to Burns. The events of Highway 20 are<br />
perhaps Oregon’s most interesting combination of geology,<br />
and Native American and pioneer culture in one stretch.<br />
Fact:<br />
U.S. Route 20 is an east-west<br />
United States highway. As the<br />
“0” in its route number implies,<br />
U.S. 20 is a coast-to-coast route.<br />
9<br />
Milepost History<br />
your taxpayer Dollars, torpedoed<br />
The Central Oregon Testing Facility (COTEF)<br />
is located north of the highway just out<br />
of view. In the early 1980s, during the<br />
Cold War, the U.S. government built this<br />
installation. This site was said to be connected<br />
to a Redmond facility and to the<br />
Backscatter Radar in Christmas Valley, 50<br />
miles to the south. This $3 billion radar<br />
installation was meant to intercept Russian<br />
bombers flying over Siberia and Alaska to<br />
attack the U.S.<br />
badlands volcano<br />
This volcanic feature is probably<br />
a “rootless volcano” related to<br />
the Newberry Volcano complex.<br />
“Rootless” because it has no direct pipe<br />
to the crustal source of magma, instead<br />
likely connected to the Newberry Volcano<br />
by a shallow lava tube or tubes. It<br />
has some spectacular ancient junipers<br />
struggling for centuries on the stark lava.<br />
If you haven’t hiked here on a clear winter<br />
day, turn to page 50 for more.<br />
13<br />
The Great Basin<br />
The large, usually dry lake basins of Harney and Lake Counties are the northern-most<br />
extension of the Great Basin. The Great Basin is part of the Basin and Range province,<br />
which extends into Mexico. Because there is no river outlet to an ocean, all precipitation<br />
falling in the Great Basin must evaporate. In cooler wetter times, some of these basins<br />
held lakes that were more than 300 feet deep. The Great Basin is also an area of thin<br />
crust, high heat flow from the center of the earth and recent volcanic eruptions. The<br />
Basin and Range is a part of the Earth’s crust that has been expanding for the last 15<br />
million years. It may have widened more than 200 miles. It has probably expanded more<br />
than twice its original width and is still expanding at about 1 centimeter per year.<br />
eXtended aRticLe<br />
If anything in this “Road Reconsidered” inspires you to learn more, please visit 1859magazine.com for the<br />
rest of the historical and geological milestones. If you’re interested in helping preserve Eastern Oregon<br />
history, contribute to Harney County Historical Museum at burnsmuseum.com.<br />
22<br />
newberry volcano<br />
This volcano to the south is a shieldshaped<br />
volcano with multiple cinder<br />
cones on its flanks. The earliest flows<br />
date to 600,000 years ago. In 1991, this<br />
area became Oregon’s fourth National<br />
Monument, protecting its fascinating<br />
geology, old growth ponderosa pines<br />
and plant communities.<br />
henry l. Davis, a sweet pulitzer<br />
Davis was the only Oregon author<br />
to win a Pulitzer Prize for litera-<br />
ture. Awarded in 1936 for his novel,<br />
Honey in the Horn, it is a story of rough<br />
characters in early Crook County.<br />
42<br />
20 1859 OREGON'S MAGAZINE WINTER <strong>2010</strong>
Road Reconsidered<br />
Around the State<br />
left: Bannock Indians photographed in the 1870’s by<br />
William H. Jackson on the Fort Hall Indian Reservation.<br />
On horseback at the extreme left is Buffalo Horn. Buffalo<br />
Jim is next to him. BElow: Dead sheep that were<br />
shot in the Sheepshooter War. The largest sheep massacre<br />
was near Benjamin Lake in 1903 when 2,400 animals<br />
were killed.<br />
Photo credit Smithsonian<br />
The Bannock-Paiute Indian War of 1878 in Oregon<br />
The Bannock War, also called Egan’s War, started in 1878 after settlers on Camas Prairie<br />
in Idaho allowed their hogs to root up and destroy camas fields that were the basis for the<br />
Bannock Tribe’s sustenance. It was the last in a growing body of transgressions against the<br />
Bannock Tribes. After leading a revolt against the whites on Camas Prairie, Buffalo Horn<br />
led the Bannocks from the Fort Hall Reservation to eastern Oregon to join with the Paiute<br />
tribes. A battle between soldiers and Indians, now led by Paiute Chief Egan, occurred at<br />
Silver Creek, not far from the present town of Riley, 24 miles west of Burns. Colonel Reuben<br />
F. Bernard found the Indians encamped at Silver Creek on a rocky flat near the abandoned<br />
site of the U.S. Army Camp Curry. The Paiutes and Bannocks numbered nearly 2,000. Of<br />
this group, 700 were warriors. The soldiers were outnumbered, but Bernard led a surprise<br />
attack on the morning of June 23, 1878. One soldier and an estimated ten to fifty Indians<br />
were killed, before the Indians fled to the north through Grant County.<br />
The Sheep Wars<br />
Between the years of 1896 and 1906, Central<br />
Oregon was the site of armed conflict<br />
between sheepherders and cattlemen that<br />
eventually led to the killing of more than<br />
10,000 sheep and a number of people.<br />
These range wars included the burning of<br />
numerous ranches, sheep sheds, haystacks,<br />
and the killing of cattle. It began with the<br />
formation of several associations, whose<br />
leaders and members remain unknown to<br />
this day. This led to the largest slaughter of<br />
sheep that took place in the American West.<br />
Rabbit Drives<br />
The Paiute Indians were a resourceful<br />
people. They utilized everything in their<br />
environment that could possibly benefit<br />
them. One strategy for getting meat and<br />
fur pelts involved driving rabbits into a<br />
rope fence and clubbing them. The early<br />
homesteaders copied Paiute methods to<br />
reduce the hordes of rabbits that would eat<br />
gardens and crops.<br />
1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong> 21
Local Habit<br />
23 artist in residence<br />
26 Brandon roy's Top 5<br />
28 From Where i stand<br />
30 What i'm Working on<br />
Portland's<br />
Voss-Andreae<br />
turns physics<br />
into art >><br />
Quantum Man<br />
Physics finds artistic<br />
expression in the works<br />
of Julian Voss-Andreae<br />
There’s an odd way about the Quantum Man.<br />
On first approach, he appears a man of substance,<br />
hunched, deliberate and pushing forward in<br />
a headwind. A moment later, he inexplicably<br />
vanishes—taking with him the basic premises of<br />
reality. Two steps more, and he reappears.<br />
For quantum physician-turned-artist Julian<br />
voss-Andreae, Quantum Man is but one of many<br />
creations that combines the unlikely bedfellows of<br />
physics and art. “This strong dependence on<br />
the point of view is intriguing in this context,<br />
because it reflects a central aspect of quantum<br />
physics," says voss-Andreae. "‘Reality’ is not<br />
something that is out there, independent of us, and<br />
ultimately can't be separated from its observer.<br />
Photo Joni Kabana<br />
1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong> 23
Local Habit<br />
artist in residence<br />
by kevin max<br />
left: the 12-foot-diameter "Angel of the West" is a human antibody sculpture<br />
modeled after leonardo da Vinci's "Vitruvian Man." this piece is displayed at<br />
the Scripps Research Institute in Jupiter, florida. ABOVe: the Quantum Man<br />
does his disappearing act from Clackamas Community College. A larger version<br />
of this sculpture is now playing the same tricks on minds and matter in Bellevue,<br />
Washington. RIGHt: Voss-Andreae holds one of his "Spin family" members,<br />
which represents the spin path of a fundamental type of matter.<br />
A PORTLANdER THE PAST NINE yEARS,<br />
voss-Andreae, 39, grew up in Hamburg,<br />
Germany. His home was a nurturing environment<br />
for the arts—his mother, a violinist<br />
and his father a patron of film, music<br />
and painting. voss-Andreae’s plans were<br />
to enter the Art Academy in Berlin and do<br />
what came natural for a young man raised<br />
to appreciate the arts. After his civil service<br />
duty, though, something went incalculably<br />
wrong for the young artist. He followed<br />
his poet friend to the Free University<br />
in Berlin and began taking courses in<br />
philosophy and physics. This would not sit<br />
well at home.<br />
“It is funny, but when I informed my parents<br />
that I wanted to drop painting and go<br />
into physics instead, they were really disappointed<br />
and tried to talk me out of it,” voss-<br />
Andreae says. “I am guessing that this is a<br />
pretty atypical reaction for parents.”<br />
voss-Andreae launched a personal quest to<br />
explain “a lot of really weird and incomprehensible<br />
things about relativity and quantum<br />
physics.” This pursuit defined his next eight<br />
academic years, including graduate research<br />
in quantum physics in vienna, Austria.<br />
But just as his need to explain the ineffable<br />
drove him into physics, the lack of expression<br />
for these mysteries ultimately led him back<br />
to art. “What frustrates me about the rationalistic<br />
paradigm most physicists live in is its<br />
incompatibility with the kind of proto-verbal,<br />
unspeakable questions and topics I am ultimately<br />
interested in,” he says. “It is about potential,<br />
possibilities, tendencies, but not nearly<br />
as vague as this sounds now. Art is really the<br />
only way for me to give those impossible-toexplain<br />
things a space.”<br />
Now, working again in a medium that returns<br />
him to his parents’ good graces, voss-Andreae<br />
has become a prolific creator of public art.<br />
In voss-Andreae’s Portland studio, the<br />
two fields—science and art—are closer relatives<br />
than they first appear. “The overlap is<br />
that both artists and scientists are ultimately<br />
driven by a sense of awe when beholding<br />
nature. In both fields, there is a strong sense<br />
of something miraculous of which you are<br />
trying to grasp small facets.”<br />
An 8-foot Quantum Man was on display<br />
at Clackamas Community College in<br />
Oregon City, before walking into a private<br />
collection on Bainbridge Island. In October,<br />
voss-Andreae unveiled a 10-anda-half-foot-tall<br />
incarnation of Quantum<br />
Man at The Bravern building, a mixeduse<br />
project in Bellevue, Washington.<br />
Long strands of human antibodies take<br />
on the appearance of Leonardo da vinci's<br />
"vitruvian Man" and become the “Angel<br />
of the West,” a 12-foot-diameter piece in<br />
front of The Scripps Research Institute in<br />
Jupiter, Florida.<br />
Roderick Mackinnon, a Nobel Prize<br />
winning scientist at Rockefeller University<br />
in New york City, commissioned voss-Andreae<br />
in 2006 to create a piece based on his<br />
research into the structure of an ion channel.<br />
“When working on a piece, I tend to<br />
get deeper into the specialized literature,”<br />
voss-Andreae notes. “And it is this knowledge<br />
of details that then provides the basis<br />
for me to receive inspirations that make<br />
artistic sense.”<br />
24 1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong>
“... both artists and scientists<br />
are ultimately driven by a sense<br />
of awe when beholding nature.<br />
In both fields, there is a strong sense<br />
of something miraculous of<br />
which you are trying to grasp<br />
small facets.”<br />
julian vOSS-andreae<br />
Photo Joni Kabana<br />
1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong> 25
Local Habit Brandon Roy's Top 5<br />
Enter the<br />
Brandon Roy<br />
Dynasty<br />
As a teenager in Seattle, Brandon Roy worked on the docks,<br />
cleaning shipping containers while quietly nurturing his dream of<br />
playing college and professional basketball. By 2006, he was bound<br />
for the NBA, having graduated from University of Washington with<br />
a bachelor’s degree in American Ethnic Studies. So great was Roy’s<br />
impact at UW that the university retired his jersey, an act that had<br />
been done only once before in UW basketball’s 108-season history.<br />
Roy, 25, is a 6’ 6” guard in his fourth season with the Portland<br />
Trail Blazers. The Seattle native hit stride last season with a teamleading<br />
average of 22.6 points per game and was named to the All<br />
NBA second team, the first Trail Blazer since Clyde Drexler (1991-92)<br />
to make an All NBA team. By mid November of the current season,<br />
Roy was already pouring in 27 points per game and laying the<br />
foundation for a Roy Dynasty with the Trail Blazers.<br />
5<br />
Brandon<br />
Roy's Top<br />
1. Eating out: Benihana.<br />
2. Movies: I love movies. I love everything:<br />
comedies, action, horror—anything but<br />
romance.<br />
3. Going to the park with my two kids.<br />
4. Bowling in Lake Oswego at Players.<br />
Bowling average: 150, give or take.<br />
5. Midnight shopping: I just like to grocery<br />
shop late at night. I love it. No one’s there,<br />
and I can find what I need a lot quicker.<br />
26 1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong>
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V E I N S P E C I A L T Y C E N T E R
Local Habit<br />
From Where I Stand<br />
“I love<br />
this beautiful<br />
mountain and<br />
taking advantage<br />
of all it has<br />
to offer.”<br />
lloyd m. Scroggins<br />
as told to kevin Max<br />
Government<br />
Camp<br />
I have been in the ski industry<br />
since I was 8. My three older brothers and<br />
I started ski racing on Mount Hood when<br />
we were very young. When I was done with<br />
my ski racing career at age 22, I coached at<br />
Crystal Mountain, Washington and fished<br />
in Alaska for twelve years, before deciding<br />
to come back to Oregon to be closer to family.<br />
It was then that I started coaching the<br />
junior ski racing team for the Multnomah<br />
Athletic Club. That is mainly what brought<br />
me to Government Camp twelve years ago.<br />
Through coaching, I have had the chance<br />
to meet great people, including my business<br />
partner, William Berman. Together<br />
we have built townhomes in Government<br />
Camp, the Tamarack Lodge, and currently<br />
own 9 acres of land, where we’re building a<br />
subdivision called Tyrolean Meadows.<br />
Government Camp is a quiet little village,<br />
where we help each other. My wife,<br />
Carla, and I love having peace of mind in<br />
raising our 7-month-old son, Liam, here.<br />
We live close to work and there is no<br />
crime and no traffic. There are a lot of great<br />
things to do year-round.<br />
We have great restaurants in town, such<br />
as the Huckleberry Inn, which serves an<br />
excellent All-American menu and is family<br />
Who:<br />
Lloyd M. Scroggins, 46<br />
Multnomah Athletic Club ski coach<br />
and builder<br />
Local Favorites:<br />
Eat: The Huckleberry Inn<br />
Drink: Charlie's Mountain View<br />
Play: Mountain biking and summer skiing<br />
friendly; the Mt. Hood Brewery at the Ice<br />
Axe Grill, for locally brewed beer, a nice<br />
dinner and a ball game; and the tavernstyle<br />
Charlie’s Mountain View—a tradition<br />
for the Government Camp locals.<br />
For those who thought that skiing was<br />
only a winter activity, Mount Hood proves<br />
you wrong. Mount Hood is the only ski<br />
area in North America that offers skiing<br />
year-round. Several clubs from around<br />
the world come up to Mount Hood during<br />
the summer for ski training camps,<br />
which makes our town quite busy even<br />
in the summer months. For nature-lovers<br />
like my wife, hiking and mountain biking<br />
are big during the summer months up<br />
here. There is a lot of great wildlife, and<br />
lots of terrain for beginners, intermediate<br />
or advanced bikers.<br />
Between coaching ski racing for the<br />
Multnomah Athletic Club, building homes<br />
in Tyrolean Meadows, and enjoying my<br />
family, I love this beautiful mountain and<br />
taking advantage of all it has to offer.<br />
28 1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong>
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Local Habit<br />
What i'm Working on<br />
interview by larS SvenSka<br />
photo by PaUla WaTTS<br />
The Analytical Voice<br />
of Olympic Skiing<br />
As the Alpine start-house reporter for the <strong>2010</strong> <strong>Winter</strong><br />
Olympics, Porino boasts, he has NBC’s highest post at the<br />
Olympic Games—typically around 10,000 feet.<br />
Q<br />
A<br />
A Bend resident since 1999, Steve Porino,<br />
43, was raised primarily outside Chicago,<br />
otherwise Connecticut, Vermont,<br />
Colorado, California, Utah and Oregon.<br />
His father, who grew up ski racing in Italy<br />
and Switzerland, passed that passion to<br />
his four kids. After graduating from the<br />
steeps of Illinois’ Wilmot Mountain—<br />
vertical drop 256—Porino took up at<br />
Vermont’s Burke Mountain Academy,<br />
where his heritage played out on longer<br />
and steeper runs. Porino raced for the U.S.<br />
Ski Team from 1988–1992 and two years<br />
on the World Cup. After racing, he began<br />
a career in broadcast that spans sideline<br />
reporter with NBC, to play-by-play and<br />
analyst with Versus and Universal Sports.<br />
What was a typical ski season like on the<br />
World Cup circuit? We scheduled around<br />
50 to 60 days of on-snow training before the<br />
racing season, which runs from November to<br />
March, mostly in Europe. By summer, it was<br />
Chile, Argentina and New Zealand. By fall,<br />
it was Alpine glaciers and Rocky Mountains.<br />
All of that amounted to less than an hour of<br />
in-motion, downhill-specific training. you<br />
learned a lot about focus and imagery. The<br />
beauty of downhill racing is that snowfall<br />
can easily delay an event. So either you<br />
are skiing powder in the Alps, or racing<br />
down them at 80 mph. It’s a good life,<br />
even before you touch on the social and<br />
cultural experience.<br />
What’s the difference between World<br />
Cup and olympic races? No one likes to<br />
hear this, but the straight facts are that an<br />
Olympic medal is easier to win than a World<br />
Cup. A nation can field as many as eleven<br />
athletes in a World Cup, and if you are, say,<br />
Austria, more than half of those skiers could<br />
win. The Olympic field is limited to four<br />
per nation. But that discounts entirely the<br />
psychological component of this once-infour-years<br />
chance at fame. The value placed<br />
on an Olympic versus World Cup medal is<br />
so much greater in the U.S. than in Europe<br />
that it defies comparison. Interestingly, save<br />
for the Bode Miller debacle of 2006, when<br />
his 22 previous World Cup wins led to zero<br />
Olympic medals, Americans have shown<br />
to be almost four times more likely to win<br />
30 1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong>
What I'm Working On<br />
Local Habit<br />
an Olympic rather than World Cup medal.<br />
Historically, the U.S. has had limited success<br />
on the forty or so World Cup races held each<br />
year, but they show up come Games time.<br />
Washington’s Debbie Armstrong never won<br />
a World Cup race, but she won an Olympic<br />
gold in 1984. The same year, Gresham,<br />
Oregon resident Bill Johnson won his<br />
downhill gold medal after only four career<br />
World Cup starts, though one was a win. He<br />
added two more victories that year and then<br />
disappeared into the ether. In 2006, two<br />
21-year-old Americans Ted Ligety and Julia<br />
Mancuso won Olympic Gold medals having<br />
never won a World Cup race.<br />
What can you tell us about the downhill<br />
event that doesn’t translate well to TV?<br />
Even the most sophisticated, high-speed,<br />
high-def cameras steal so much of the speed,<br />
pitch and peril from downhill racing. To<br />
stand on the sideline as a racer passes at 70<br />
or 80 mph is a thunderous and breathtaking<br />
experience that invariably makes me<br />
wonder: What the hell was I ever thinking?<br />
The killer is the panning camera. It takes a<br />
skier traveling around 100 feet per second<br />
and suspends him, almost static, in the<br />
middle of your screen. It flattens pitches that<br />
are frequently much steeper than your roof,<br />
and washes out surfaces so hard the skis'<br />
edges may penetrate as little as 5 millimeters<br />
into its ice. That’s hanging by a thread when<br />
you consider the forces can jump briefly<br />
over 10 g's (or more than a ton for the<br />
average-sized downhiller). On the upside,<br />
today’s high-speed cameras do get closer to<br />
the truth. They can slow down the action<br />
to where you see a fully contracted thigh<br />
bounced around like a bag of water, and<br />
watch how rigid skis writhe over the snow.<br />
What are your favorite places to ski? I find<br />
it’s the moment more than the location that<br />
makes the most lasting impressions. Like<br />
the summer of 1988. We went to train in<br />
Las Lenas, Argentina. We flew to the middle<br />
of nowhere then drove another two hours.<br />
Then we got 9 feet of snow in three days.<br />
So the powder was ours and ours alone. As<br />
with the people, there was also a wonderful<br />
scarcity of boundaries, laws, and, frankly,<br />
safety. That to me is the true mountain<br />
experience. It means you can ski anywhere,<br />
and whatever happens is both your<br />
adventure and your fault. The arid snow of<br />
the Andes stayed light for days. On day one, I<br />
learned to do a backflip on skis. By day three,<br />
it was a double back. We spent evenings<br />
jumping from the hotel’s third story into the<br />
snow … because no one stopped us.<br />
For sheer ambiance, beauty and history, there<br />
is no place like Wengen, Switzerland. You<br />
take a 100-year-old cog railway to a little town<br />
scribed into a mountain that faces the Eiger,<br />
Mönch and Jungfrau. No cars are allowed.<br />
Transport is by foot and, if you’re a kinder,<br />
by sled. Restaurant pubs perched high on the<br />
mountain stay open late, and they’ll gladly<br />
rent you a sled to careen home on.<br />
What are your expectations for the<br />
US Ski Team for the <strong>Winter</strong> Olympics?<br />
Miller is back. I don’t think he’s as potent<br />
in all disciplines, but I have to imagine he’ll<br />
be more disciplined with his nocturnal<br />
choices. If so, he’s got medal potential in<br />
four of five disciplines. He’ll be helped by<br />
the distraction Lindsey Vonn will provide.<br />
She will be America’s media darling going<br />
into Vancouver. She was, without a doubt,<br />
What holds my<br />
interest is that<br />
Miller only started<br />
training in earnest in<br />
September. He's going<br />
to enter Vancouver<br />
with a freshness he's<br />
never experienced.<br />
the best all around skier in the world last<br />
year and is the best American female ever.<br />
She is every bit as dominant as Miller was<br />
in his prime, but more consistent. This is a<br />
skier who has set a new standard, training<br />
eight hours a day. After winning the<br />
World Championship downhill last year in<br />
France, she gracefully maneuvered through<br />
interviews and appearances that lasted until<br />
9 p.m. At that time, she turned to me and<br />
politely excused herself. She had ninety<br />
minutes of training to get in before bed. Ted<br />
Ligety, gold medal winner in 2006, also has<br />
the nerve for big races. If he continues the<br />
momentum he’s shown in the last two years,<br />
he’ll be a favorite in giant slalom and an<br />
outside hope in slalom.<br />
The flighty Julia Mancuso, the other<br />
American gold medalist from 2006, is more<br />
of a wild card. If she commits herself, she has<br />
the talent for two medals.<br />
There’s also a strong contingent of men on<br />
the speed side: Marco Sullivan, Steve Nyman,<br />
Scott Macartney (Bellevue, WA). All of them<br />
have a chance at a medal.<br />
What’s our medal count for alpine skiing<br />
at the end of the Vancouver <strong>Winter</strong><br />
Olympics? I said this four years ago (and was<br />
wrong) but will say it with greater conviction<br />
now. This team has the highest medal<br />
potential of any the U.S. has fielded. I’m<br />
saying seven medals. The record is five from<br />
1984. Vonn: two gold, one other. Miller: one<br />
gold, one other. Ligety: one medal. Mancuso,<br />
Sullivan, Nyman, Macartney are good for<br />
number seven.<br />
Who might surprise us on the podium in<br />
Vancouver? One name you won’t hear much,<br />
but should, is Carlo Janka of Switzerland.<br />
He’s a young talent with absolute nerves of<br />
steel. I first noticed his talent two years ago at<br />
the Olympic venue. He was 21, and won the<br />
second run of giant slalom.<br />
Last year he won a few races under great<br />
pressure. Bode Miller hooked a gate to<br />
disqualify him from winning the combined<br />
downhill/slalom at the 2006 Torino Olympics.<br />
Will we see vintage Miller in Vancouver?<br />
I don’t think we’ll see the vintage slalom<br />
skiing Miller inspired us with in the early<br />
2000s. I think we could see it everywhere<br />
else. What holds my interest is that<br />
Miller only started training in earnest in<br />
September. He’s going to enter Vancouver<br />
with a freshness he’s never experienced.<br />
1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong> 31
32 1859 OREGON'S MAGAZINE winter <strong>2010</strong><br />
The Brave History<br />
of Brewing’s Triumph<br />
Over Time
TO THE CASUAL BEER ENTHUSIAST—<br />
aren’t we all?—the modern culture of hip brewpubs<br />
across Oregon serving some of the world’s best craft<br />
beers appears to be a relatively recent phenomenon<br />
led by such brewers as Ninkasi Brewing in Eugene,<br />
Deschutes Brewery in Bend, Widmer Brothers Brewing in<br />
Portland and the ubiquitous McMenamins establishments.<br />
Today Oregon is at the vanguard for craft brewing.<br />
The state counts more than 90 breweries, leads the<br />
nation in microbeer drinkers, has one of two colleges<br />
in the country that condones brewing beer as an<br />
academic pursuit, displays a trophy case with too<br />
many top medals at the Great American Beer Festival<br />
to mention and is the second leading hops producer<br />
in the country. Recently, even while the economy<br />
has been contracting, craft brewing in Oregon has<br />
been expanding. As Oregonians strive for a locallydriven<br />
food model, the state has become the largest<br />
commercial market for locally crafted beers. In 2009<br />
alone, the state added ten new breweries.<br />
While today’s aficionados drink in the benefits of this<br />
trend, each sip of this finely brewed culture in Oregon<br />
has been more than 150 years in the making.<br />
The preceding century and a half was a hell of a fight.<br />
1859 OregOn's magazIne winter <strong>2010</strong> 33
Clockwise from left: McMenamins, one of the first in craft<br />
brewing, puts as much taste in its renovated properties as its<br />
beers. Cascade Brewery brewmaster Ron Gansberg squeezes fruit<br />
into a barrel for Raccoon Lodge. Oregon is the second largest hop<br />
producer in the U.S. behind Washington. Pelican Brewery opened<br />
doors to beach-goers of Pacific City in 1996.<br />
written by Bob Woodward<br />
with Laurel Bennett<br />
Regarding the Henrys: The German Brewers<br />
Oregon’s brewing fairy tale begins a long time ago in the loose confederation<br />
of states now known as Germany. Henry Saxer, a German<br />
immigrant, was first to the trade in the Oregon Territory, establishing<br />
Liberty Brewery in Portland in 1852. But it was his successor,<br />
Henry Weinhard, who would become the icon of Oregon beer for<br />
the next hundred years.<br />
The same year that Saxer opened Liberty Brewery, the 22-year-old<br />
Weinhard, had just arrived in America by way of Ellis Island. Had<br />
the French been precisely 34 years more punctual in their gifting of<br />
the Statue of Liberty, the young German<br />
might have envisioned a bottle of Henry<br />
Weinhard’s beer, instead of a torch, atop<br />
Lady Luck’s outstretched arm.<br />
Born in the Kingdom of Württemberg<br />
and apprenticed to the brewing trade<br />
in Stuttgart, Weinhard, in 1852, emigrated<br />
into America’s political foreplay<br />
of the Civil War. New York City was no<br />
civilized environment in which to ply his<br />
brewing skills. Weinhard began brewing<br />
his way westward, refining his craft<br />
along the way—first in Philadelphia, then<br />
Cleveland and finally out to Fort Vancouver,<br />
Washington.<br />
The Pacific Northwest must have appeared<br />
to Weinhard as a missive sent<br />
from an all-knowing all-loving, all-brewing<br />
deity. Farmers were already growing<br />
hops in the verdant valleys of the Oregon<br />
Territory, and a thirsty throng of hearty<br />
dock workers, lumbermen and laborers lived in nearby Portland,<br />
where the only brewer in town was fellow German, Henry Saxer.<br />
Weinhard crossed the Columbia to Portland in 1855 and partnered<br />
with George Bottler to have a go at competing with Saxer.<br />
Historical accounts say that Weinhard was disappointed with the<br />
growth of the operations and retreated to the Columbia Brewery at<br />
Fort Vancouver.<br />
Shortly thereafter, Weinhard returned to Portland with more cash<br />
“What Widmer and<br />
BridgePort and the rest<br />
brought to the scene<br />
was that most blessed of<br />
all benedictions: fresh<br />
ale, brewed right there<br />
right now. Overnight,<br />
Portland became the<br />
beer city in America.”<br />
jonathan nicholas,<br />
former Oregonian columnist<br />
and a bolder strategy—to buy out his former partner and Saxer to<br />
become the local monopoly on beer. Bold plans begat bold results.<br />
Soon Weinhard was exporting beer to Asia and across the States. By<br />
1875, his production had grown to more than 40,000 barrels from<br />
just 2,000 when he re-acquired his brewery.<br />
The Bonnet Brigade: Pre-prohibition<br />
While Weinhard was busy making the Pacific Northwest hospitable<br />
for beer drinkers, women with resolve in their bonnets were plotting<br />
countermeasures. In an 1883 meeting at Portland’s First M.E.<br />
Church, just blocks away from Weinhard’s<br />
brewing empire on Burnside Avenue, pious<br />
prohibitionists-to-be were organizing<br />
what would become the Oregon Woman’s<br />
Christian Temperance Union. They took<br />
heart in the words of the guest speaker,<br />
Frances E. Willard, the president of the<br />
national chapter of the Woman’s Christian<br />
Temperance Union:<br />
Years from now, when your conventions<br />
shall be deemed great<br />
events, and your anniversaries shall<br />
bring together its hundreds of thousands,<br />
you will look back to these<br />
words and thoughts and say, `those<br />
women struck the keynote of success.’<br />
(Twenty Eventful Years of the Oregon’s<br />
Woman’s Christian Temperance Union;<br />
Gotshall Printing Company, 1904)<br />
If brewers, contemporary and past,<br />
could wipe any day from history, it would<br />
undoubtedly be this one. That day, motivated by vocation and now<br />
strengthened by organization, women from all parts of the state<br />
rushed forth from the pews of the Taylor Street church under the banner<br />
of the Oregon Woman’s Christian Temperance Union—a crack<br />
outfit that would soon deliver alcohol’s kill-vehicle: Prohibition.<br />
The Temperance Union’s self-described state song, sent its soldiers<br />
across the state with this tender tune:<br />
1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong> 35
Historic Hops Growers: This photo<br />
(circa 1900) captures the Parrett<br />
family on their farm outside<br />
of Wilsonville. RIGHT: Pelican<br />
Brewing's brewer.<br />
A temperance state we<br />
yet shall call it, Oregon—<br />
land of martyr’s [sic] tears.<br />
Oregon, saved for God and<br />
country, shall banish saloons<br />
a thousand years.<br />
Meanwhile Henry Weinhard was establishing himself as a formidable<br />
man of business with a civic mind. His operations were<br />
expanding and he had become a patron of Portland. Outside of<br />
Portland, the Temperance troops were running counties dry while<br />
installing water fountains, obviating the excuse of the menfolk who<br />
needed to duck into the saloon “just for a drink of water.”<br />
In 1888, perhaps as a futile mockery of the encroaching prohibitionists,<br />
Weinhard offered to pump beer into the Skidmore Fountain,<br />
on its opening day, a stunt for which he is well remembered<br />
today. City officials politely declined. The Skidmore Fountain stands<br />
today at SW Ankeny and First Streets.<br />
Oregon, we’re taught, is a state of pioneers. It embraces progressive<br />
technology, progressive thought, progressive lifestyles and progressive<br />
politics. To the detriment of brewers and the bewilderment<br />
of their consumers, Oregon raced into prohibition in 1915—smack<br />
dab in the middle of a period known as the Progressive Era. Oregon’s<br />
prohibition would begin four years before the national Prohibition<br />
launched with a capital P.<br />
Prohibition for the full country began in 1919, gave rise to black<br />
markets, bootlegging, glorified gangsters and even some teetotaling.<br />
In a young and independent<br />
America, the 18 th<br />
Amendment of Prohibition<br />
was not long lived.<br />
For ensuing years,<br />
brewers turned out soda<br />
and specialty drinks to stay afloat. The cash crop hop growers in<br />
Oregon leveraged other farming operations but continued to grow<br />
and sell hops for medicinal elixirs.<br />
To survive Prohibition, Weinhard’s Brewery merged with Portland<br />
Brewing Company’s Arnold Blitz in 1928, eventually making<br />
Blitz-Weinhard beer. Henry’s 12 th Street Tavern between Burnside<br />
and Couch streets in northwest Portland now resides where the<br />
iconic brewery once stood.<br />
Modern presidential pundits point to the New Deal and negotiating<br />
a World War as F.D.R.’s greatest feats. Many Oregonians—especially<br />
those who have read this far—might argue, however, that<br />
his most influential legacy was the repeal of Prohibition in 1932 and<br />
these words: “I think this would be a good time for a beer.”<br />
Making of the Oregon Brewpub Culture<br />
Over the next fifty years, the brewing industry staggered to its feet<br />
again, but today’s variety of craft beers and brewpubs were still years off.<br />
Portlander and longtime Horse Brass Pub owner, Don Younger,<br />
recalls the scene. “Five breweries were the players: Blitz Weinhard,<br />
Olympia, Rainier, Lucky Lager and Heidelberg,” Younger says. “All<br />
THE EARLY YEARS<br />
1852 Henry Saxer opens Liberty Brewery,<br />
Oregon’s first. Henry Weinhard immigrates to<br />
New York from Germany.<br />
1856 Weinhard buys out Saxer and creates<br />
Henry Weinhard’s, a brewery that continued<br />
for more than 140 years.<br />
1883 Oregon Woman’s Christian Temperance<br />
Union is established at a meeting at Portland’s<br />
First M.E. Church on Taylor Street.<br />
1915 Oregon Legislature enacts prohibition.<br />
1919 U.S. enacts the 18th Amendment:<br />
Prohibition.<br />
1928 Weinhard’s merges with Portland Brewing<br />
Company to form Blitz-Weinhard.<br />
1932 F.D.R. signs the repeal of Prohibition.<br />
THE MODERN ERA<br />
1974 Mike McMenamin and friends open the<br />
Produce Row Café in southeast Portland. The<br />
bar eschews any association with Northwest’s<br />
major breweries of the day (Blitz-Weinhard,<br />
Rainier and Olympia)<br />
in favor of serving tasty<br />
imports.<br />
1979 Chuck Coury opens<br />
The Cartwright on SE<br />
Hawthorne Avenue. It<br />
serves locally made Portland<br />
beer.<br />
While traveling in<br />
Germany and visiting<br />
relatives, Rob Widmer<br />
Weinhard Brewery building 1892<br />
comes to appreciate good beer and its place<br />
in culture. On returning to Portland, he enlists<br />
his brother to help him start a brewery.<br />
1983 Brian and Mike McMenamin open The<br />
Barley Mill pub on SE<br />
Hawthorne, the second in<br />
a network of 56 brewpubs<br />
throughout Oregon,<br />
Washington.<br />
1984 Noted Oregon<br />
winemakers Richard and<br />
Nancy Ponzi get into<br />
brewing beer opening the<br />
Columbia River Brewery<br />
(later renamed Bridge-<br />
Port) in the historic 1886 Portland Cordage<br />
Company rope-making factory in northwest<br />
Portland.<br />
Art Larrance and Fred Bowman open<br />
Portland Brewing.<br />
1985 Oregon law is changed, allowing beer to<br />
be made at the same location where it is sold.<br />
The Mcenamin brothers open the Hillsdale<br />
Brewery and Public House, the first establishment<br />
in Oregon since 1916 to make and serve<br />
beer on its premises.<br />
1986 Widmer introduces its Hefeweizen<br />
wheat beer that becomes an instant classic.<br />
1987 The McMenamin brothers open the<br />
36 1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong>
ars had only one draught. All<br />
drinkers were fiercely brand<br />
loyal. And all swore their beer<br />
was superior. Looking back<br />
now, I’m sure if I tasted them<br />
all side by side, I wouldn’t<br />
be able to tell the difference. It was very primitive. No wine, no<br />
windows —it was horrible. It was dirty and rough around the edges.”<br />
By the 1970s, a critical shift in Oregon culture laid the foundation<br />
for the ensuing decades of growth in the industry—provincialism. Pub<br />
owners and publicans collectively gave the finger to the massive megabrewers<br />
while promoting locally made lagers, ales, bitters and stouts.<br />
According to modern legend, the craft beer, or microbeer, brewing<br />
movement has its origins in Great Britain where, in the early<br />
1970s, younger pub owners began canceling long-standing contracts<br />
with megabreweries and started brewing their own. Their incentive<br />
was to provide their patrons with tastier beers and a wider variety.<br />
That same spirit moved a small number of Portland beer aficionados,<br />
who, in the late ‘70s, set a course to change the way<br />
beer was produced and dispensed in and around Portland.<br />
Unlike the burgeoning microbrewing culture in California and<br />
Washington, the Portland movement centered on comfortable public<br />
houses. “People began to snub generic, processed and multinational<br />
corporate products in favor of local handcrafted creations,”<br />
notes McMenemins Brewery historian Tim Hills.<br />
Portland had always been a town with great bars and pubs, Jim<br />
Parker of the Oregon Brewers<br />
Guild, observes. Now those<br />
pubs and bars were serving<br />
customers brews of their own<br />
creation, or those of other local<br />
craft brewers.<br />
In 1979, the first true Portland microbrew pub came into being—The<br />
Cartwright on Hawthorne Avenue. It lasted for only three<br />
years, just long enough to whet the appetite of local beer lovers for<br />
handcrafted brews. Soon more microbrew pubs like The Fulton,<br />
BridgePort, Produce Row, Portland Brewing’s Taproom, Captain<br />
Ankeny’s Well, Rubin’s Gulch Café, Widmer’s Taproom and Horse<br />
Brass Pub were serving pints that were brewed elsewhere.<br />
Brewers and beer-drinkers of yore would note 1883—the year that<br />
the Temperance bees buzzed out of their meeting and fomented<br />
prohibition—as one of the worst years of the century. If barley and<br />
hops had sustained their lives a hundred years more, they would<br />
claim 1985 as one of the best years for beer culture in Oregon.<br />
It wasn’t until 1985 that a small motivated group of brewers pushed<br />
new laws through the Oregon Legislature that allowed the combination<br />
of brewing and retail sales, a critical piece of law that shapes<br />
today’s industry. “It was illegal to have retail and manufacturing on<br />
the same premise,” notes Brian McMenamin, who with his brother,<br />
Michael, owns the legendary McMenamins chain of brewpubs and<br />
lodging facilities. “So it was impossible to make beer and sell it in a<br />
restaurant that was on the same premises.”<br />
Mission Theater serving up big-screen movies<br />
and microbrews.<br />
Microbrewing heads down the Columbia<br />
River Gorge to Hood River where the Full Sail<br />
Brewing Company sets up operations in a<br />
refurbished cannery.<br />
1988 Gary Fish takes the microbrewing idea<br />
over the Cascades to Central Oregon opening<br />
the Deschutes Brewery and Public House in<br />
downtown Bend.<br />
Avid home brewer, Jeff Schultz, former<br />
University of Oregon fraternity brothers Jack<br />
Joyce and Bob Woodell join Rob Strasser to<br />
form Rogue Ales on the banks of Lithia Creek<br />
in downtown Ashland.<br />
1989 Rogue Ales opens a new location in<br />
Newport, Oregon, bringing microbrewing to<br />
the Oregon coast.<br />
1990 Hand-crafted brews<br />
and a brewpub make the<br />
Eugene scene at the Steelhead<br />
Brewing Company.<br />
1991 The Mount Hood<br />
Brewing Company and<br />
its Ice Axe Grill open in<br />
Government Camp the<br />
shadow of Mount Hood.<br />
Brian and Mike McMenamin<br />
1996 Oregon’s surfers’ paradise, Pacific City,<br />
welcomes the Pelican Pub and Brewery to a<br />
beachside location at Cape Kiwanda.<br />
1997 Oregon’s mountainous<br />
northeast corner gets<br />
its first pub and brewery—Terminal<br />
Gravity<br />
Brewing in Enterprise.<br />
1998 Make it one more<br />
brewpub and brewer in<br />
the northeastern part of<br />
the state as Barley Brown’s<br />
opens in Baker City.<br />
2005 Roots Organic Brewing Company is<br />
certified as the first organic brewer in Oregon.<br />
2006 Named for the Sumari goddess of<br />
brewing, Ninkasi Brewing Company opens in<br />
Eugene. By 2009, the brewery is ranked eighth<br />
(in terms of barrels produced annually) in the<br />
state.<br />
2008 Sisters, Oregon gets its first brewery—<br />
Three Creeks Brewery.<br />
2009 Ten new breweries open in Oregon.<br />
1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong> 37
left: McMenamins, where fun, history and beer play<br />
nicely. above: The Fulton Pub in Portland circa 1989—one<br />
of the early microbrew pubs. right: Brewers from Silver<br />
Moon Brewery Travis West and Evan Taylor sport medals<br />
from the American Beer Awards.<br />
The McMenamin brothers, together with a group of Portlandarea<br />
brewers including: Richard and Nancy Ponzi of Columbia<br />
River Brewing (now BridgePort Brewing); Art Larrance and Fred<br />
Bowman of Portland Brewing; Kurt and Rob Widmer, of Widmer<br />
Brothers Brewing, all decided to write a bill that would change<br />
the law in Oregon.<br />
“Our bill kept getting killed and killed and killed,” Mike Mc-<br />
Menamin recalls. “Finally it was attached to a bill to allow Coors<br />
to sell their beer in Oregon. We thought this was the death knell<br />
for us, but, to our amazement, the bill cruised through.”<br />
The law had the effect of manifest destiny across Oregon<br />
with innovation and collaboration at its heart. New brewpubs<br />
sprang up and the brewing craft was once again in high<br />
demand in Oregon. In the ensuing years, stouts sprouted in<br />
Newport, porters surfaced in Portland and, soon, pale ales<br />
took on prominence in Bend.<br />
Rob Widmer recalls the genesis for one of Oregon’s food groups,<br />
Widmer Hefeweisen, with this story: “We started with an Altbier,<br />
which is still a beer-geek’s favorite, but was a bit too much<br />
for most beer drinkers at the time. We needed something more<br />
approachable and wanted to do it in a German style, which was<br />
the niche we were carving out. We knew the Germans brewed<br />
a blond wheat beer, and we set out to make our own using our<br />
Altbier yeast.”<br />
The result was a cloudy unfiltered Widmer Hefeweizen that<br />
was puzzling to the average consumer. Fear of the unknown lay<br />
between that murkiness and the beer’s commercial success.<br />
“But one night, when the Hefeweizen was new at the Dublin<br />
Pub, the owner, Carl Simpson, said to me, ‘Watch this,’” Widmer<br />
recalls. Simpson then poured pints of the Hefeweizen and put<br />
them on a tray garnished with cut lemon slices. He handed the<br />
tray to a waitress, who paraded around the pub with the tray and<br />
its intriguing residents. “By 11 that night, everyone in the pub<br />
was drinking the Hefeweizen, and the word of how good it was<br />
b y t h e n u m b e r s<br />
Total economic impact from the beer industry on Oregon’s<br />
economy: $2.25 billion.<br />
Over the last five years, Oregon breweries created 2,300 jobs.<br />
Over the last five years, Oregon-brewed beer consumed in<br />
Oregon rose to 12% from 9.9%.<br />
Oregon is the second largest producer of craft beer in the U.S.<br />
About 12% of the total beer consumed in Oregon in 2008 was<br />
Oregon craft beer- the highest percentage of local craft beer<br />
consumption in the country. The national average for total<br />
craft beer consumption by volume is 4%.<br />
Oregon is the second largest hop-growing state in the country.<br />
There are currently 73 brewing companies, operating 96<br />
brewing facilities in Oregon.<br />
There are 30 breweries operating in Portland, more than any<br />
other city in the world.<br />
The Portland metro area is the largest craft brewing market<br />
in the US.<br />
Source: Oregon Brewers Guild<br />
38 1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong>
spread like wildfire through the pub and restaurant community<br />
the following morning,” Widmer summons triumphantly.<br />
"In the mid-`80s, Portland already had a rich pub culture..."<br />
former Oregonian columnist, Jonathan Nicholas, observes.<br />
"What Widmer and BridgePort and the rest brought to the<br />
scene was that most blessed of all benedictions: fresh ale,<br />
brewed right there right now. Overnight, Portland became the<br />
beer city in America. And now guys in San Diego sit poolside,<br />
idly twirl the parasols in their girlie lagers, and gaze out across<br />
the ocean wondering how much fun it might be to live, and<br />
drink beer, in Portland.”<br />
Such was the call of Californian, Gary Fish, who encountered<br />
the right environment in Bend in 1988 to execute his brewpub<br />
concept, Deschutes Public House. The small sleepy mountain<br />
town was just beginning to shake off a sluggish ‘80s economy.<br />
“People didn’t know what to make of us,” says Fish of the first<br />
patrons at the Bend brewpub. “The reason why this product<br />
took hold in Oregon is the independent spirit of Oregonians and<br />
creative, innovative brewers.”<br />
Legislation and a growing provincialism for locally crafted<br />
beers soon turned the microbrewer of Mirror Pond Pale Ale and<br />
Monkey Face Porter in obscure Bend, Oregon into a macro success,<br />
as the state’s largest brewer by barrel count.<br />
“I was lucky that we could hire John Harris from Mc-<br />
Menamins,” says Fish. “He was able to call them and<br />
ask questions, and that was a terrific benefit for us.”<br />
Breweries now number more than ninety in Oregon, with ten<br />
new brewpubs arriving in 2009 alone.<br />
Oregon Microbreweries<br />
Portland area<br />
4th Street Brewing<br />
5th Quadrant<br />
Ambacht Brewing<br />
Amnesia Brewing<br />
BridgePort Brewing<br />
Cascade Brewing & Raccoon Lodge<br />
Hair of The Dog Brewing<br />
Hopworks Urban Brewery<br />
Kona Brewery<br />
Laurelwood Public House & Brewery<br />
Lucky Labrador Brewing<br />
Mac’s Taproom & Pyramid Brewing<br />
McMenamins<br />
New Old Lompoc Brewery<br />
Old Market Brewery<br />
Rock Bottom Brewery<br />
Roots Organic Brewing<br />
The Broadway Brewery<br />
Ram Restaurant & Brewery<br />
Upright Brewing<br />
Vertigo Brewing<br />
Red Hook Ale Brewery/<br />
Widmer Brothers Brewing<br />
Eastern Oregon<br />
Beer Valley Brewing<br />
Terminal Gravity Brewery<br />
Coast<br />
Astoria Brewing<br />
Fort George Brewing<br />
Pelican Pub and Brewery<br />
Rogue Ales<br />
Central Oregon<br />
10 Barrel Brewing<br />
Bend Brewing Company<br />
Cascade Lakes Brewing<br />
Deschutes Brewery<br />
Silver Moon Brewing<br />
Three Creeks Brewing<br />
Mt. Hood/The Gorge<br />
Double Mountain Brewing<br />
Full Sail Brewing<br />
Mount Hood Brewing<br />
Willamette Valley<br />
Big Horn Brewing<br />
Block 15<br />
Calapooia Brewing<br />
Eugene City Brewing<br />
Golden Valley Brewing<br />
Heater Allen Brewery<br />
Hop Valley Brewing<br />
Ninkasi Brewing<br />
Oakshire Brewing<br />
Oregon Trail Brewing<br />
Seven Brides Brewing<br />
Steelhead Brewing<br />
The One Horse Tavern Brewing<br />
Southern Oregon<br />
Caldera Brewing<br />
Southern Oregon Brewing<br />
Standing Stone Brewing<br />
Wild River Brewing & Pizza<br />
1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong> 39
“... We congratulate<br />
Mr. Meissner on his<br />
fortitude and fitness.<br />
But don,t ask us of what<br />
value it is. Of what value<br />
is any record of the sort?<br />
You cannot appraise<br />
,em, but nevertheless<br />
they attest much to the<br />
gallantry, and wonder,<br />
and glory of living.”<br />
FROM SKI TRACKS IN SNOW,<br />
THE OREGONIAN, APRIL 12, 1948<br />
This original image appeared in the oregonian and<br />
in meissner's scrapbook, “This adventure Belongs to<br />
Jack meissner,” assembled by his mother.<br />
40 1859 OregOn's OREGON'S magazIne<br />
MAGAZINE winter<strong>2010</strong>
Oregon’s Greatest<br />
Ski Adventure<br />
An unrepeated 300-mile push from Mt. Hood to Crater Lake<br />
belongs to Jack Meissner<br />
written by Annemarie Hamlin<br />
photos from Meissner's scrapbook<br />
CARRYING A TENT, A SLEEPING BAG and a heavy backpack,<br />
John Richard “Jack” Meissner strapped on his skis on a February<br />
afternoon in 1948 and began a 300-mile trek from Mt. Hood, in the<br />
northern part of the state, to Crater Lake in the south. He would be the<br />
first person to make the journey on cross-country skis. And no one<br />
has repeated the trip since, according to his daughter, Jane, a Central<br />
Oregon naturalist and retired ski and hiking instructor. Perhaps no<br />
one since then has been as equipped as Jack to take up the challenge.<br />
Meissner grew up among people who taught him carpentry and<br />
mechanics, skills that complemented his natural resourcefulness<br />
and love of the outdoors. When he was a young boy, Jack watched<br />
his father build the family’s first house in Portland, and later learned<br />
mechanical skills from his stepfather, a mechanical genius who could<br />
fix anything. Even before he started high school, Jack earned money<br />
during the summers by cutting wood. He was also an athlete, strong<br />
in football and any other sport he decided to take<br />
up, according to his best friend from high school.<br />
During World War II, Meissner served in the<br />
Air Force as an airplane mechanic in Europe and<br />
Northern Africa. Once home from the war, he<br />
and his parents bought the marina at Shelter Cove<br />
on Odell Lake. Jack spent his summers repairing<br />
boats and homes and his winters trapping and<br />
teaching himself to ski. He grew adept at building<br />
snow caves for shelter and fires for warmth, and he<br />
spent several weeks at a time trekking through the<br />
snowy backcountry near Odell Lake tending to<br />
his traps. Skiing had gained in popularity after the war, and Meissner<br />
discovered a particular talent for the sport and a yearning to explore.<br />
Once Meissner announced his trip, the newspapers followed his<br />
story closely. Reports by The Oregonian and the Bend Bulletin that<br />
year, quote Meissner as naming several different motivations for making<br />
the trip. He wanted to bring attention to the sport of cross-country<br />
skiing, he wanted to place markers along the Skyline trail for other<br />
skiers to follow, and he just simply wanted to prove to himself that he<br />
could do it.<br />
Sixty years later, Meissner’s memory of his motivation for making<br />
the trip was that he hoped to make some money. The financial goal<br />
didn’t work out, he said, shortly before his death November 15, 2008.<br />
“But I got a good wife out of it.”<br />
A Slow Start<br />
In 1948, a gallon of milk cost 86 cents. A ski parka cost $5. A Dodge<br />
DeLuxe cost $1,500, and a two-bedroom house in Portland, $9,500.<br />
“Every once in a<br />
while I’d pick up a<br />
squirrel some place,<br />
skin it and throw it<br />
in the pot and cook<br />
it for my dinner.”<br />
Lil Abner and Dick Tracy held top spots on the comics page of The<br />
Oregonian, even as the front page carried daily headlines about the<br />
“Reds” taking over Eastern Europe and China. President Harry S.<br />
Truman had witnessed the establishment of the United Nations<br />
three years earlier, and was guiding the country through recovery<br />
from World War II.<br />
On a much smaller stage—along a trail that snaked south along<br />
the backbone of the Cascade mountains in Oregon—a 28-year-old<br />
trapper set down tracks in another kind of history-making event.<br />
Meissner announced his trip in early February of 1948 with plans<br />
to start from Timberline Lodge on Friday, Feb. 13. Once the Forest<br />
Service heard of his plans, however, officials discouraged him from<br />
traveling alone. Regional Forester, H. J. Andrews, told The Oregonian<br />
that the Forest Service wouldn’t even allow its own men to make<br />
such a trip alone, and that he hoped Meissner’s excursion would not<br />
encourage others to do the same. Mt. Hood Ski<br />
Patrol also issued a written warning to Meissner,<br />
calling the trip “foolhardy in the extreme.”<br />
Meissner’s friends, however, knew he was<br />
up to the challenge. Longtime friend Bob<br />
Knoll recalled asking Meissner, just after he<br />
announced the trip, “Why would you want to do<br />
that?” But, Knoll admitted, “I also knew, without<br />
a shadow of a doubt, that Jack would make it.”<br />
Knoll described Meissner as hardworking, smart<br />
and skillful enough to do anything he set out to<br />
do. The two men had conducted snow surveys<br />
together at the McKenzie Pass, and Knoll knew Meissner was in good<br />
shape and an excellent skier.<br />
The Forest Service, however, had other concerns. Storms and<br />
freezing temperatures in early February undoubtedly prompted<br />
their warnings, but so had a recent tragedy at Mt. Hood. On February<br />
2, a 23-year-old newlywed died of exposure to the cold after<br />
wandering off the ski trail late that day. The man, Bert Suprenant,<br />
had removed his skis and taken shelter under a tree but was found<br />
dead the next morning. A February 3 editorial in The Oregonian<br />
characterized Suprenant as a novice skier and under-prepared for<br />
the cold. “The Cascades are merciless as they have always been to<br />
the overconfident and ill-prepared. Mr. Suprenant’s death is a grim<br />
warning to thousands of youngsters.” Suprenant, prepared only for a<br />
day of recreational skiing, wore light wool and cotton clothing with<br />
a leather jacket and gloves, and carried no survival equipment. The<br />
editorial writer lamented the skier’s “tragic disregard or ignorance of<br />
the rules for safe conduct in the snow.”<br />
1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong> 41
The meissner Legacy<br />
Jack’s wife, Virginia Meissner, has a<br />
sno-park named for her along the<br />
Cascade Lakes Highway between<br />
Bend and Mt. Bachelor. Virginia, an<br />
outdoors-woman since childhood,<br />
spent much of her childhood around<br />
Salem, fishing and exploring the<br />
outdoors with her father. Virginia<br />
met Jack at willamette Pass Ski Area<br />
during his trek, and they discovered<br />
a common love of outdoor life. After<br />
they married, they continued to ski<br />
and hike together in the Cascades.<br />
in the '70s, Virginia began teaching<br />
Meissner's trek was<br />
covered closely in the<br />
oregonian, which took<br />
a paternally dim view of<br />
the journey, and in the<br />
bend bulletin. a massive<br />
flood in vanport, oregon<br />
in May 1948 wiped out<br />
Meissner's diary and<br />
photos leaving the newspapers'<br />
accounts as the<br />
remaining records.<br />
cross-country skiing and hiking at<br />
Central Oregon Community College.<br />
in the '80s, she wrote three<br />
books on skiing and hiking in Central<br />
Oregon: Cross Country Ski Tours in<br />
Central Oregon, Day Hikes in Central<br />
Oregon, and Hiking Central<br />
Oregon and Beyond.<br />
Virginia also spent many<br />
years lobbying local<br />
officials on behalf of<br />
cross-country skiers<br />
and marking trails for<br />
a sno-park that would<br />
be closed to motorized<br />
vehicles.<br />
Unlike Suprenant, Meissner knew how to survive alone<br />
in the cold and snow. Although he learned to ski only since<br />
returning from the war, his experience as a trapper in the<br />
Cascades backcountry during snowy winters prepared him<br />
well for the weather as well as the terrain. Nevertheless,<br />
once warned against traveling alone, Meissner cast about<br />
for a traveling partner.<br />
Accounts differ as to how he found one. The Oregonian<br />
reported that he signed up Ernst Pentheny, a ski instructor<br />
at Timberline Lodge. A few days later, however, Pentheny<br />
withdrew from the trip. Meissner’s own version of the story<br />
held that he and a friend, Stan Tonkin, devised the plan for<br />
the trip together, and when Stan couldn’t make the trip,<br />
Jack recruited Emery “Woody” Woodall, 21, a college student<br />
from Virginia doing odd-jobs in Government Camp.<br />
“He was a better skier,” Meissner said of Woodall, “but I had<br />
more experience.”<br />
Meissner and Woodall skied away from Timberline Lodge<br />
around 1 p.m. on February 18, wearing bright red parkas and<br />
carrying 45-pound packs with a tent, sleeping bags, food and<br />
emergency supplies. Guided by contour maps, a compass,<br />
and Meissner’s knowledge of the Cascades, they pulled their<br />
jackets tight as they headed south in bracing winter cold to<br />
Skyline Trail, now known as the Pacific Crest Trail.<br />
Government Camp to Santiam Pass<br />
The two men traveled about 60 miles in six days, past Ollalie Lake<br />
and into the Mt. Jefferson Wilderness. Meissner had pre-arranged<br />
with the Eugene civil air patrol to fly over and drop supplies periodically<br />
during the trip, and The Oregonian records the first sighting of<br />
the two on Feb. 24 on the north slope of Mt. Jefferson. Pilots saw no<br />
signs of distress and dropped food and two carrier pigeons, which<br />
would deliver messages from the travelers to Eugene. On the ground,<br />
though, Meissner and Woodall had been experiencing heavy storms<br />
and icy conditions that required frequent stops to scrape their skis.<br />
Weather reports during February in Portland and Bend indicated<br />
lower temperatures and greater snowfall in the Cascades than<br />
the averages over the past four decades. By the time Meissner and<br />
Woodall left Government Camp, snow had blanketed the mountain<br />
passes, making travel hazardous. Meteorologists expected even<br />
colder weather to follow at high altitude, but for a few days, the lower<br />
elevations were deluged with rain.<br />
The day after the Civil Air Patrol drop, Meissner and Woodall<br />
skied along the western slope of Mt. Jefferson, but near<br />
Russell Glacier, runoff and an impassable canyon forced<br />
them to take off their skis and climb lower. For several<br />
days, they tramped through swampy underbrush, skis<br />
strapped to their backs, hoping to find a stream crossing.<br />
Woodall developed painful blisters on his feet, so the men<br />
found a road, flagged down a car and got Woodall a ride<br />
into town. Eight days into the trip and now alone, Meissner<br />
didn’t hesitate to continue the journey. “He’s a glutton for<br />
42 1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong>
The unusually<br />
heavy snows that<br />
winter buried most<br />
of the Skyline<br />
Trail markers, so<br />
Meissner found<br />
his way using his<br />
compass, the sun,<br />
as a guide.<br />
punishment,” said Woodall on February 29,<br />
“and is holding up well.”<br />
Remembering the trip decades later,<br />
Meissner recalled hitching a ride back up to<br />
Marion Forks, staying there one night and<br />
shoveling snow to earn the night’s lodging<br />
before pushing on. However, the Bend Bulletin<br />
reported on March 1 that Meissner got<br />
a ride to Hoodoo Lodge then backtracked<br />
northward in order to keep the journey<br />
continuous before returning to Santiam<br />
Pass.<br />
On Sunday the 29 th , Meissner recounted<br />
the details of his trip by loudspeaker to thousands of skiers at Hoodoo<br />
for an All-Oregon ski tournament. The crowd included his peers<br />
from the Obsidians, an outdoor club from Eugene. He was rested<br />
and reenergized two days later, so Meissner strapped on his skis and<br />
“headed into the ski area and over the hill." Moving into elevations<br />
above 4,500 feet, he was about to face the most challenging portion<br />
of the trip.<br />
Santiam Pass to Cascade Summit<br />
Meissner skied toward McKenzie Pass and traveled along the sides<br />
of volcanic peaks toward a shelter he remembered in the area. He<br />
and Knoll had previously done snow surveys for the Forest Service<br />
in this area. Storms slowed his progress this time, and he got stuck<br />
overnight in frigid weather, wind whistling through the lava cones. “I<br />
remember it was a miserable night,” said Meissner. It was one of the<br />
worst he spent on the trip. Equipment breakdowns also complicated<br />
the trip. While skiing through these rocky areas on the pass, he split<br />
his skis. Although The Oregonian reports indicated that he had aluminum<br />
tips for the skis in case this happened, Meissner recalled he<br />
filled the gash with pine tar and wax and kept moving south toward<br />
the shelter west of the Dee Wright Observatory.<br />
Meissner’s original plan of traveling ten miles per day proved too<br />
grueling, especially in the foul weather and difficult ski conditions he<br />
encountered around Mt. Jefferson. Still, his two-person tent served<br />
him well, as did the wool and nylon pants provided to him by the<br />
White Stag company. As Meissner remembered it, White Stag had<br />
asked him to try out an experimental pair of trousers, with one leg<br />
made of wool and the other made of a wool-nylon blend. The blend<br />
proved to be the superior material as it was more water resistant and<br />
dried faster, he said.<br />
Meissner also took daily precautions. He never traveled in the dark<br />
because, when not staying in travelers’ shelters, he needed enough<br />
light to make camp. Meissner stripped branches from a tree and laid<br />
them on the snow, pitched his two-person army surplus tent on top,<br />
then built a fire. During his time spent trapping, Meissner learned<br />
some very practical skills for backcountry survival. “Never build a<br />
fire on snow,” he said. “Instead, cut the trunk of a tree into sections<br />
and make a platform to build the fire on.” He also found some clever<br />
ways to manage his food needs.<br />
Using his #10 tin cooking<br />
pot over an open fire,<br />
Meissner made simple<br />
meals from dried foods.<br />
For breakfast, he ate<br />
oatmeal and raisins<br />
before breaking camp.<br />
He never stopped for<br />
lunch, instead snacking<br />
on cheese and<br />
nuts while traveling.<br />
The Civil Air Patrol<br />
dropped fruit, vegetables,<br />
and even frozen meats to him.<br />
When he didn’t have such luxuries, he<br />
prepared dinners from dried foods,<br />
but his trapper skills again came in<br />
handy. “Every once in a while, I’d<br />
pick up a squirrel some place, skin<br />
it, and throw it in the pot and cook<br />
it for my dinner.”<br />
Past the McKenzie pass area,<br />
Meissner traveled along the west<br />
side of the Three Sisters, where<br />
he found the terrain easy but<br />
the weather treacherous. “It<br />
was not too bad going, except<br />
around the buttes,” he said.<br />
At Mesa Creek, he ran into<br />
a heavy snowstorm, and by<br />
the next morning three feet<br />
of new snow had accumulated<br />
around his tent. He<br />
dug a snow cave to wait out<br />
the storm, but after a day,<br />
he realized, “I couldn’t<br />
stay any longer,” and he<br />
headed back out into the<br />
blowing snow.<br />
Meissner traveled<br />
along the southwest<br />
side of the Sisters<br />
toward the Elk Lake<br />
Basin. He’d been<br />
alone for almost a<br />
week since his stopover<br />
at Santiam<br />
Pass. At a snowcovered<br />
lake near<br />
Rock Mesa (south<br />
of Mesa Creek),<br />
he saw a phone<br />
Diamond Peak<br />
+ 8744<br />
Diamond<br />
Lake<br />
Mt. Mazama<br />
8160<br />
+<br />
Crater<br />
Lake<br />
+<br />
Mt. Thielsen<br />
9182<br />
Ollalie Butte<br />
7215<br />
Three Fingered Jack<br />
7841<br />
+<br />
Waldo<br />
Lake<br />
Odell<br />
Lake<br />
Crescent<br />
Lake<br />
Mt. Hood<br />
+<br />
11240<br />
Mt. Wilson<br />
5599<br />
+<br />
+<br />
Mt. Jefferson<br />
10497<br />
+ Mt. Washington<br />
7794<br />
10085<br />
+<br />
Three Sisters<br />
+10047<br />
+ 10358<br />
+<br />
Mt. Bachelor<br />
9065<br />
Mt. Scott<br />
8926<br />
+<br />
1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong> 43
after weeks of trekking, Meissner resupplied at the Willamette Pass Ski area<br />
before facing the most challenging leg of his perilous solo journey.<br />
line above him, the only sign of civilization for miles. He hit it with<br />
his skis, just to hear the sound. No one answered.<br />
The unusually heavy snows that winter buried most of the Skyline<br />
Trail markers, so Meissner found his way using his compass, the<br />
sun, as a guide. He came in on Waldo Lake from the north, an area<br />
he had spent the previous winters trapping pine marten and bears.<br />
Sizing up the almost ten-square-mile lake, he said, “I’m not going to<br />
go around this lake.” Although Waldo is the second deepest lake in<br />
Oregon, there were no springs that might create holes in the ice, a<br />
friend had told Meissner. He eased out onto the frozen, snow-covered<br />
surface and traveled south for nearly five miles in the silence.<br />
Traveling alone across a frozen lake invites additional risk, of<br />
course. Undoubtedly, this was one of those activities the Forest Service<br />
and others worried about when Meissner announced the trip.<br />
Whether confidence or arrogance propelled his choices, Meissner<br />
said he never had any close calls on the trip. “A close call is only<br />
when you’re going to get hurt,” Meissner judged, and clearly he did<br />
not plan on putting himself in danger.<br />
By the time he skied across Waldo Lake, Meissner had been on<br />
the trail for about twenty days and had traveled almost 200 miles.<br />
On March 10, he was traveling through a valley southwest of South<br />
Sister, and a second supply drop from the Civil Air Patrol brought<br />
him “a swell bunch of food” and another carrier pigeon. Daughter<br />
Jane Meissner said, “He beat the pigeons back. [People] thought he<br />
ate them, but he just made it back first.” The subsequent arrival of<br />
the pigeons dispelled the rumors.<br />
The Civil Air Patrol pilots spotted him traveling at 6,300 feet “in perfect<br />
weather conditions,” 50 miles south of Santiam Pass. Four days later,<br />
he arrived at his parents’ home in Cascade Summit at Odell Lake, only a<br />
few days later than he had originally planned. He stayed there just long<br />
XC groomers, races and Backcountry Touring<br />
GROOMED NORDIC SKIING<br />
Mt. bachelor Nordic<br />
the 56K trail network consists of a<br />
dozen trails at elevations between<br />
5,750 and 6,400 feet. the nordic<br />
Center offers rentals, apparel and gear<br />
sales, food and a lodge warmed by a<br />
wood-burning stove.<br />
Teacup Lake<br />
Off HwY 35 near the Mt. Hood Meadows<br />
ski area, teacup Lake has 20K of<br />
groomed trails that meander through<br />
a thick pine forest and the cozy ray<br />
Garey warming hut for shelter.<br />
anthony Lakes<br />
Located in the powder-rich elkhorn<br />
Mountains west of Baker City,<br />
Anthony Lakes has a groomed 30K<br />
trail network located adjacent to the<br />
full-service alpine ski area.<br />
Walt Haring Sno-park<br />
A mile north of Chemult in southern<br />
Central Oregon, it has 15K of groomed<br />
trail and plenty of parking.<br />
virginia Meissner Sno-park<br />
Midway between Bend and Mt.<br />
Bachelor on Cascade Lakes Highway,<br />
Meissner Sno-park is the starting point<br />
for a 40K trail system groomed four<br />
times weekly.<br />
Hoodoo<br />
Just off HwY 20 between eugene<br />
and Sisters, the Hoodoo Ski Area has<br />
arguably the most beginner-friendly<br />
network of cross-country ski trails in the<br />
state. the 15K trail system is located close<br />
to the area's expansive alpine ski lodge<br />
with full services.<br />
NORDIC RACES<br />
The John Craig Memorial<br />
the granddaddy of all Oregon crosscountry<br />
ski races, the John Craig<br />
celebrates Oregon's legendary skiing<br />
mailman Craig and his route over the<br />
Cascades. Held at the end of March since<br />
1934, the event offers a 30k race up the<br />
eastern portion of the McKenzie Pass<br />
to the Dee wright Memorial at the top<br />
of the pass and back. For non-racers,<br />
there's a more relaxed commemorative<br />
mail carry ski tour up over the pass and<br />
down its west side.<br />
tumalolanglauf.com/events<br />
Teacup Classic Races<br />
On January 31, teacup Lake nordic will<br />
host classic kick-and-glide technique<br />
only races at several distances.<br />
teacupnordic.org<br />
Sporthill Crescent Lake Challenge<br />
new to Oregon's cross-country racing<br />
schedule, the January 17, 22K race goes<br />
over mellow terrain counter-clockwise<br />
around Crescent Lake just off HwY 58<br />
near the willamette Pass Ski area.<br />
crescentlakechallenge.com<br />
Great Nordeen Ski Race<br />
named in honor of the late emil<br />
nordeen, a key figure among Central<br />
Oregon's Scandinavian logger/ski racers<br />
of the early 1900s, the April 3, 30K race<br />
starts at Mt. Bachelor nordic Center<br />
eventually winding its way to a finish at<br />
wanoga Sno-park.<br />
mbsef.org<br />
John Day Memorial<br />
in the late '60s and early '70s in a car<br />
packed with ski gear, Medford rancher<br />
John Day drove across the U.S. promoting<br />
the then little-known sport of<br />
cross-country skiing. now he's honored<br />
with a 10K classic and 20K freestyle race<br />
at Diamond Lake off HwY 138. this year<br />
the event will take place on February 14,<br />
followed by a celebratory meal at the<br />
Diamond Lake Lodge.<br />
BACKCOUNTRY TOURING<br />
Mt. Hood area<br />
easily the most accessible backcountry<br />
skiing close to an urban area in<br />
America, Mt. Hood offers a spectrum of<br />
backcountry possibilities from mountain<br />
steeps, to glacier skiing, to tours<br />
through old-growth forests.<br />
Three Sisters Wilderness<br />
essentially next door to Mt. Bachelor,<br />
the three Sisters wilderness offers<br />
close, short skin-up turn-down runs<br />
on tumalo Mountain to longer tours<br />
and ascents/descents on Broken Hand<br />
and Broken top Crater. Come spring<br />
and early summer, skiers head into the<br />
three Sisters (north, Middle and South)<br />
accessed near the town of Sisters for big<br />
mountain, big glacier skiing.<br />
Willamette Pass<br />
to the north of the pass and the willamette<br />
Pass ski area are endless day-tour<br />
possibilities in the vicinity of the rosary<br />
Lakes. Across HwY 58 to the north are<br />
tours and ascent/decent outings in the<br />
Diamond Peak wilderness.<br />
Paulina Peak-Newberry<br />
National volcanic Monument<br />
Just south of Bend, the national Monument<br />
has plenty of backcountry touring<br />
options plus some steep and deep skiing<br />
off the summit of Paulina Peak.<br />
Mt. ashland/Siskiyous<br />
Beyond the boundaries of the Mt. Ashland<br />
ski area in southern Oregon lay<br />
the vast skiable forests and peaks of the<br />
Siskiyou Mountains.<br />
Steens Mountain<br />
in spring, the slopes of 30-mile long<br />
Steens Mountain range in the remote<br />
southeastern part of the state offer<br />
excellent corn snow skiing on slopes<br />
that range from easily rolling to 40<br />
degrees steep.<br />
44 1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong>
enough to ride out a storm and to travel<br />
to Eugene to buy new skis, an expense of<br />
about $25 at the time. “Hendershots gave<br />
me a good discount,” he said, not recalling<br />
whether the skis he bought were<br />
Splitkins or Northlands. He also stopped<br />
at Willamette Pass Ski Area, where he<br />
met up with Lucille Gibson and Virginia<br />
Tompkins. Tompkins would become his<br />
wife the following year.<br />
Cascade Summit to Crater Lake<br />
For the final leg of the trip from Odell<br />
Lake to Crater Lake, two teen-age<br />
boys asked to join him. The Oregonian<br />
reported that a member of the Civil Air<br />
Patrol also traveled with them for a few<br />
days before splitting off. They started<br />
on March 18, but soon returned to Cascade<br />
Summit discouraged by a storm that gripped<br />
the mountains. As much as ten inches of<br />
snow fell in eight hours at Crater Lake and<br />
wiped out power to much of Klamath County.<br />
The young men proved their strength in a<br />
side trip climbing Diamond Peak, but Meissner<br />
said that the boys, Don Temple and Gilbert<br />
Bissell, both 17, lacked some important<br />
skills for outdoorsmen. “I could see those<br />
kids making mistakes—the way they would<br />
chop wood and wanted to keep going and not<br />
stop before it got dark.” Meissner decided he<br />
needed to send them home, so he skied with<br />
them to Crescent Lake and put them on the<br />
train. He then went to the store at Crescent<br />
Lake, bought and ate a can of peaches, then<br />
headed back to the mountains.<br />
Skiing south again, he traveled to Summit Lake and Windigo Pass.<br />
Navigating the open fields there proved especially difficult. “The snow<br />
on the road was too deep. There was no fall-off from the trees to pack<br />
it down, so I went back into the woods again.”<br />
On April 2, Meissner skied into Diamond Lake Lodge, where he<br />
once again traded work for lodging. “I shoveled a lot of snow,” he said,<br />
recalling the work he did for the caretaker who gave him a room for<br />
the night.<br />
Near-zero temperatures loomed and more snow blanketed the<br />
Cascades in the next few days as he headed south again. Not far<br />
from his destination, Meissner fell into a ditch and struggled to get<br />
out. Stuck in the snow, he thought for a while, then shoved the back<br />
end of one ski into the slope of the ditch, stood on it, and shoved<br />
the next ski in a little higher than the first. He stepped up on the<br />
second ski and reached down for the first. He put that one back<br />
into the snow above the other ski, and repeated the process several<br />
Sixty years later,<br />
Meissner’s memory<br />
of his motivation<br />
for making the trip<br />
was that he hoped to<br />
make some money.<br />
The financial goal<br />
didn’t work out, he<br />
said, “But I got a<br />
good wife out of it.”<br />
times, creating a ladder to climb until he<br />
reached the top. Finally, he scrambled<br />
out and laid on the flat ground to rest.<br />
On April 8, in the midst of a severe snowstorm,<br />
Meissner arrived at Crater Lake<br />
Lodge. Exhausted, hungry, and covered in<br />
snow, he entered the lodge. “They gave me a<br />
pretty askance look,” he said. The staff and<br />
customers there had apparently not heard<br />
of his journey.<br />
Meissner had skied 300 miles in thirtythree<br />
travel days, mostly alone, at elevations<br />
ranging from 4,000 to 10,000 feet<br />
and during one of the coldest, snowiest<br />
winters of the previous decade. He became<br />
the first to accomplish this on skis.<br />
In an April 12 editorial titled “Ski Tracks<br />
Along the Cascades,” The Oregonian, which<br />
had earlier reported on his foolhardiness,<br />
praised Meissner’s success. “The achievement<br />
of having skied from northern mountain to<br />
the southern lake is a considerable one, and we<br />
congratulate Mr. Meissner on his fortitude and<br />
fitness … Money cannot buy such memories as<br />
Jack Meissner now keeps.”<br />
Meissner returned to his home at Odell<br />
Lake, later married, and became the director<br />
of the Willamette Pass Ski Area for many<br />
years before moving to Bend and starting the<br />
ski school at Mt. Bachelor. Meissner and his<br />
wife, Virginia, ran the Mt. Bachelor school<br />
until 1973, after which he held ski instructor<br />
positions in Colorado and back at Willamette<br />
Pass until the late 1990s. In the summers, he<br />
did home repairs. He lived in Crescent until<br />
his death in 2008.<br />
Meissner kept a diary and took photos during the 1948 adventure,<br />
but he sent them to his sponsor, a manager with the White Stag company<br />
that provided his outerwear. The manager’s house, where the<br />
materials were kept, was destroyed by the Vanport, Oregon flood in<br />
May 1948. Only a few items remain of the trip, including a trophy created<br />
for Meissner by the Obsidians, the Civil Air Patrol of Eugene and<br />
the Oakridge Ski Club. At the time of his death, he also had the Army<br />
surplus tent that sheltered him at night, and a scrapbook that his wife<br />
and mother put together after the trip.<br />
The construction paper book, bound with now-tarnished brads,<br />
holds newspaper clippings about the trip, a few black and white images<br />
of Jack on his stop at Willamette Pass, and some hand-painted backgrounds<br />
of skis, ski tracks, and pine boughs. The hand-lettered title<br />
page of the scrapbook reads “This adventure belongs to Jack Meissner,<br />
Cascade Summit, Odell Lake, Oregon.” Six decades later, that adventure<br />
still belongs only to him.<br />
1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong> 45
Oregon Living<br />
47 outdooregon<br />
56 Design<br />
62 Home grown<br />
70 getaway guide<br />
<strong>Winter</strong><br />
Getaways<br />
>><br />
Destination<br />
Oregon<br />
10 cures for cabin fever<br />
written by Sarah Max<br />
and Anne Aurand<br />
The true beauty of Oregon is in its many faces<br />
and climates. <strong>Winter</strong> is no exception. Come<br />
January and February, the Oregon coast will likely<br />
exhibit temperatures in the low 50s drizzled with<br />
rain. Over the Cascades and into the high desert,<br />
Bend is partly sunny and somewhere in the low<br />
30s. Farther east to Baker City and you're looking<br />
at 40s and clear blue skies. But this isn't a weather<br />
report for cities that start with B, it's a state-wide<br />
guide to some of the best ways to take advantage<br />
of the varied temps and terrains this winter.<br />
Photo Brent McGregor<br />
1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong> 47
dog sledding<br />
Central Oregon<br />
Get a Dog's-eye View of Mt. Bachelor<br />
You might say that a tour with Oregon Trail of Dreams is the dogsled<br />
equivalent of a carriage ride with Sea Biscuit or a tandem bike<br />
tour with Lance Armstrong. In fact, the one-hour tour winding<br />
through an old-growth forest on Mt. Bachelor's<br />
south side is a cakewalk for the 12-dog<br />
teams of Alaskan Huskies, many of which<br />
have Iditarod finishes under their harnesses.<br />
While the dogs are capable of pulling at hair-raising speeds,<br />
seasoned guides keep the four-legged athletes in check with downhill<br />
speeds rarely topping 15 miles per hour. Cost: $75 for adults,<br />
$30 for children less than 80 pounds, with maximum passenger<br />
capacity of 450 pounds per sled. If you're looking for a full-day affair,<br />
opt for the marathon trip to Elk Lake Lodge (see page 54) and<br />
back for $450 for two adults, including lunch. For more information,<br />
look under the services/activities tab of Mt. Bachelor's website<br />
(mtbachelor.com).<br />
48 1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong>
Outdooregon<br />
Oregon Living<br />
Explore an Urban Legend<br />
If you think urban-wilderness is an oxymoron, you haven't spent<br />
much time in Portland's Forest Park. At 5,100 acres, it's the largest<br />
urban forest in the country– but it gets better. At its most southern<br />
point, the park meets up with Macleay Park,<br />
trail running<br />
Portland Metro<br />
which then spills into Washington Park. The<br />
30-mile Wildwood Trail spans all three parks<br />
and is crisscrossed by miles and miles and<br />
miles of single-track and fire roads. “Even traversing our regular<br />
routes backwards can provide a novel run,” says Ruben Galbraith,<br />
an ultra runner and leader of Trail Factor running club (trailfactor.<br />
com). This 6-mile run is one of his staples: Start at Lower Macleay<br />
parking lot (NW 29th St. and Upshur St.) and run or hike west<br />
along Balch Creek until the trail intersects with the Wildwood<br />
Trail at the Stone House (a defunct public restroom built in the<br />
1930s as part of the Works Progress Administration). Bear left at<br />
the Wildwood Trail and wind up to Pittock Mansion. On a clear<br />
day, you're rewarded with panoramic views of downtown Portland,<br />
Mt. Tabor and Mt. Hood. From the mansion, double back or keep<br />
going another 3.5 miles to the Oregon Zoo and the southern-most<br />
point of the Wildwood Trail. Detailed maps are available at the<br />
Forest Park Conservancy (forestparkconservancy.org).<br />
Go Off Piste in the Wallowas<br />
The Cascades may get most of the glory, but for breathtaking views<br />
and dry and plentiful snow, you can't beat the Wallowa Mountains.<br />
To see these rugged peaks, grab a few friends and book a back-country<br />
yurt. Experienced off-pisters will get the<br />
Backcountry skiing<br />
Eastern Oregon<br />
most bang for their buck at one of the two selfcatered<br />
camps run by Wing Ridge Ski Tours<br />
(wingski.com). As long as you pass the outdoor<br />
skills assessment, you can ski (or snowshoe) into one of two camps<br />
without a guide for the rate of $55 per night per person. Each camp<br />
is composed of a cook tent, sauna tent, latrine and two five-person<br />
sleeping tents. Don't want to go it alone? Wing Ridge offers guiding<br />
service starting at $200 a day. If you'd rather not worry about cooking<br />
or navigating, Wallowa Alpine Huts (wallowahuts.com) offers fourday<br />
all-inclusive trips for $625 a person.<br />
Photos Robert Agli<br />
What's in her pack?<br />
When it comes to preparedness, Wing Ridge's lead guide Charla Whiting<br />
treats a two-hour cruise in the backcountry no differently than a two-day trip<br />
“just in case something goes wrong.”<br />
First aid kit Flint and matches in a plastic bag Whistle Compass<br />
Disposable hand warmers Down jacket Avalanche shovel Avalanche<br />
transceiver Thin rope Small tarp or heavy garbage bag Dry soup<br />
Extra socks Nuts and other high protein foods Knife with scissors<br />
Something bright to flag for help Small thermos with a hot drink<br />
Can to heat soup on a fire<br />
1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong> 49
Oregon Living<br />
Outdooregon<br />
Find Fresh Tracks at Mt. Bailey<br />
Experienced skiers quench their thirst for fresh tracks and massive<br />
amounts of snow on Mt. Bailey, just five miles north of Crater<br />
Lake National Park. The 8,360-foot Cascade mountain peak<br />
catches winter storms from the coast, collecting 500 to 600 inches<br />
of snow each season and making for many<br />
waist-deep powder days. Experienced backcountry<br />
skiers can skip the cat and skin up<br />
the ungroomed mountain. But for $350 per<br />
cat skiing<br />
Southern Oregon<br />
person, Cat Ski Mt. Bailey (catskimtbailey.com) takes skiers on six<br />
to eight runs down chutes, tree runs and open bowls. Guides determine<br />
which part of the 6,000 acres of terrain will offer the best<br />
tracks and weather each day for the best experience. Basic lodging,<br />
food and drinks are available at the Diamond Lake Resort (diamondlake.net),<br />
where rustic motel rooms range from $79 to $109<br />
a night and cabins range from $179 to $559 depending on size and<br />
vintage. Rates are higher on weekends and holidays.<br />
Hike the Badlands<br />
Solitude. Serenity. Silence. That,<br />
says David Eddleston, is reason<br />
to hike in the 30,000-acre high<br />
desert wilderness called Badlands,<br />
15 miles east of Bend on<br />
Hwy 20. Eddleston, a Scotsman<br />
and veteran of the British<br />
Army, moved to Bend ten years<br />
ago and soon fell in love with<br />
the Badlands' rugged canyons,<br />
jagged lava formations and ancient<br />
juniper trees. Today he<br />
leads a volunteer stewardship<br />
group, Friends of Oregon Badlands<br />
Wilderness and stocks<br />
maps at trailheads to help visitors<br />
navigate the 45 miles of<br />
trails. Hiking in the Badlands<br />
is particularly pleasant in the winter when the trails aren't dusty<br />
and afternoon temperatures can reach 50 degrees. The Flat Iron<br />
Trail and Badlands Rock Trail, both about 6 miles, are popular<br />
routes, but Eddleston's personal favorite is the 6- or 10-mile Larry<br />
Chitwood trail loops. These trails are rarely<br />
visited, easy to bushwhack without getting<br />
lost, and marked by rocky outcroppings<br />
and 360-degree views of the Badlands and<br />
winter hiking<br />
Central Oregon<br />
Cascade Mountains. When visiting the Badlands, keep an eye out<br />
for pictographs and obsidian arrow heads – but leave them undisturbed.<br />
Also expect to see wildlife such as deer, coyotes or yellow<br />
bellied marmots. For more information, go to the website of the<br />
Oregon Natural Desert Association (onda.org).<br />
above: The Badlands<br />
Wilderness in the winter.<br />
Miles of hiking just<br />
20 miles east of Bend<br />
make for a good rest<br />
day when skiing. right:<br />
Cat skiing at the remote<br />
Mt. Bailey is one day<br />
you'll not soon forget.<br />
Photo Buddy Mays<br />
Photo Krk Devoll<br />
50 1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong>
Free the heel and free the mind at Mt. Bailey. Deep bowls,<br />
thrilling chutes and richly powdered glades await the first<br />
tracks of Mt. Bailey Cat skiers.<br />
1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong> 51
Photo Buddy Mays
Outdooregon<br />
Oregon Living<br />
backcountry<br />
Central Oregon<br />
Get Away from it All at Elk Lake<br />
A winter excursion into Elk Lake Resort (elklakeresort.net) in<br />
the Central Oregon Cascades can mean any number of things: a<br />
cross-country ski adventure, a snowmobile outing or a cozy snow<br />
cat ride. No matter how you travel the scenic<br />
11-mile route from Dutchman Flat Sno-<br />
Park into the snowbound resort, it ends in a<br />
winter wonderland of comfy cabins ($199 to<br />
$379 a night depending on the cabin) and a revamped lodge serving<br />
hearty American cuisine. The resort is an ideal base camp for<br />
winter recreation, whether it's exploring the backcountry, crosscountry<br />
skiing the groomed 7-mile Elk Lake Loop or touring via<br />
snowmobile (available for rent at the resort). But while there's no<br />
shortage of things to do at Elk Lake Resort, part of its appeal is the<br />
luxury to do nothing.<br />
The historic lodge at Elk<br />
Lake serves hearty meals<br />
at a communal table.<br />
alpine/nordic skiing<br />
Eastern Oregon<br />
Lose the Crowds at Anthony Lakes<br />
Don’t let the word “resort” fool you. Anthony Lakes Ski Resort (anthonylakes.com),<br />
located 35 miles northwest of Baker City, is one<br />
of the more beautiful, isolated and uncrowded ski areas around.<br />
What it lacks in on-site lodging and dining,<br />
it makes up for in family-friendly skiing<br />
and champagne powder. Open Thursdays<br />
through Sundays and most holidays, the 21-<br />
run resort has one triple chair, a hand tow and a wonder carpet<br />
for youngsters. Tickets cost $39 for adults and $10 for kids six and<br />
younger. Guided snowcat skiing is available for $199 per person per<br />
day. Anthony Lakes also boasts 33 kilometers of gorgeous groomed<br />
Nordic trails for all levels of classic and skate skiers ($13). North<br />
Powder is the closest town, 19 miles away, but we recommend driving<br />
the extra 15 miles to the historic Geiser Grand Hotel (geisergrand.com)<br />
in Baker City and kicking back at the award-winning<br />
Barley Brown’s Brewery (barleybrowns.com).<br />
Photo Jon Tapper<br />
Ride the Steelhead Train<br />
Fishermen have called this an epic, record-breaking season for<br />
steelheading. The summer count of steelhead crossing the Bonneville<br />
Dam on the Columbia River was the largest run ever recorded.<br />
Grab your fly-rod and hop on the Steelhead<br />
steelhead fishing<br />
Eastern Oregon<br />
Train in northeast Oregon, in the heart of the<br />
Columbia Basin. Now in its sixth season, the<br />
1950s-era, self-propelled, 52-seat train car,<br />
which runs on Saturdays and Sundays in February and March, departs<br />
from the Minam Motel and Market in Minam and shuttles<br />
a maximum of 40 anglers hole to hole along a 10-mile Wild and<br />
Scenic stretch of the Wallowa River. Catching fish isn’t guaranteed,<br />
but an experienced guide is on board to help. Book a ticket through<br />
Minam Motel (minammotel.com) – $75 full day or $40 half day.<br />
The train also carries additional non-angling passengers for a scenic<br />
ride. The quaint and convenient eight-room Minam Motel has<br />
some kitchenette rooms, but many passengers opt to sleep and dine<br />
in La Grande or Enterprise.<br />
1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong> 53
Find the Perfect Storm<br />
Oregon's coast comes alive in the winter months when<br />
big storms blow in, bringing 50-mile-an-hour winds and<br />
40-foot waves. There is no shame in spectating from the<br />
comfort of the indoors. But, to ex-<br />
storm watching perience the full force of the storms<br />
rolling off the Pacific, put on a parka<br />
Oregon Coast and head to a high ground. “I don't<br />
recommend going right out on the beach,” says Pat Corcoran,<br />
coastal hazards outreach specialist for Oregon State<br />
University, citing sneaker waves, rip currents and fastmoving<br />
debris as some of the biggest safety threats. With<br />
hundreds of miles of public shoreline, however, the Oregon<br />
Coast has no shortage of vantage points for soaking in a<br />
storm. Here are some of Corcoran's favorites.<br />
Fort Stevens State Park, near Astoria. A choice spot is the<br />
observation deck at Parking Lot D. “It's good exposure, but<br />
you're not tempted to walk out on the jetty,” says Corcoran.<br />
Seaside Promenade, downtown Seaside. Mix storm watching<br />
with boutique hopping on the historic promenade.<br />
Ecola State Park, north of Cannon Beach. The park offers<br />
several viewpoints along nine miles of rocky shoreline.<br />
Pelican Pub & Brewery, Pacific City: Feel the maelstrom<br />
of gusting winds swirling around Cape Kiwanda, then head<br />
inside for a pint of The Perfect Storm.<br />
Devil's Punchbowl, north of Newport: The main attraction<br />
at this two-acre state park is a bowl-shaped<br />
rock formation where water swirls and sprays.<br />
Cape Blanco, north of Port Orford. Oregon's<br />
western-most point is ideal for watching the<br />
waves crash into shore. Be sure to check out<br />
the historic lighthouse.<br />
Brave the <strong>Winter</strong> Greens<br />
If the $220 summer green fee at Bandon Dunes (bandondunesgolf.com)<br />
has kept you from playing one of its renowned linksstyle<br />
courses, here's your chance. During the winter months,<br />
you can play for less than half the price,<br />
thanks to January and February green<br />
fees of $75 and $90 respectively. While<br />
the price goes down, the quality of play<br />
doesn't. <strong>Winter</strong> weather is generally mild, and because the<br />
courses are built on sand, they drain quickly when it rains.<br />
“<strong>Winter</strong> golf here is a lot like what you'd get playing in Scotland,”<br />
says the resort's head golf professional Jeff Simonds. Of<br />
course, winter at the coast isn't always marked by wet weather.<br />
Locals describe February as a secret summer, with sunny days<br />
and balmy (relatively speaking) temperatures. “Some people<br />
are actually disappointed if it's sunny,” says Simonds. Golf<br />
isn't the only thing that gets discounted in the off season. Now<br />
through the end of January, for example, you can book two<br />
nights at the resort, two rounds of golf, two breakfasts and one<br />
dinner for $370 per person based on double occupancy.<br />
winter golf<br />
Southern Coast<br />
<strong>Winter</strong> Golf Tips<br />
You might say that Grant Rogers is a foul-weather player. As far as the director<br />
of instruction at Bandon Dunes is concerned, the wetter and the windier the<br />
better. “It adds a whole new dimension to the game,” he says.<br />
Here's how to get the most out of it.<br />
Mentally prepare for all conditions. It might be rainy the first<br />
hole and sunny the second<br />
gloves to wear between shots<br />
wipe your grips<br />
Dress in layers, including warm<br />
Pack plenty of dry towels to<br />
Make sure your spikes are good and sharp<br />
Adjust your expectations. A birdie on a sunny day may be par on<br />
a rainy day. “Focus more on the experience and don't worry about<br />
your score,” Rogers says.<br />
54 1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong>
0248_DNP_1859_825x495.indd 1<br />
12/9/09 1:08:07 PM<br />
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Oregon Living<br />
Design<br />
green FeaTUres:<br />
Compact 1,900 square feet • Passive solar design • Slab-on-grade,<br />
which acts as thermal storage mass • Evacuated-tube solar hot<br />
water system • Formaldehyde-free fiberglass insulation • Tulikivi<br />
soapstone stove • Low-VOC paints • Locally-sourced wood for<br />
exterior and interior • Energy Star appliances<br />
Small Scene, Big Green<br />
Sustainable design and low-impact living in two small Oregon homes.<br />
Two of the most important considerations are building small and using<br />
the right "Finish-ing" elements<br />
TO ASSESS THE PRACTICALITY of their<br />
home design plans, Perry St. John and Cathy<br />
Chisholm slept beneath the stars on their<br />
newly purchased hillside property that overlooks<br />
Coos Bay in North Bend, Oregon in<br />
2007. Their campout provided them with<br />
some crucial information.<br />
“We realized that it can get quite windy up<br />
here,” St. John explains. The couple replaced the<br />
drawings for a vertical house and upstairs deck<br />
with a new design that protected the house<br />
from the strong northwesterly winds and relocated<br />
the master bedroom to the ground floor.<br />
May 2009 offered the couple and Chisholm’s<br />
13-year-old son, Drake, great cause to celebrate.<br />
After years of waiting, the three of them<br />
had a comfy new cottage they could call home.<br />
The family had been living together in North<br />
B end since 2006, but didn’t buy the property<br />
for their future home until 2007.<br />
St. John, who worked for more than twenty<br />
years as an architect and is now a project manager<br />
in Coos Bay, lent his expertise to nearly<br />
every phase of the home design process. Chad<br />
Dixon, who works with St. John at HGE, Inc.,<br />
served as structural designer on the project.<br />
Both St. John and Chisholm were committed<br />
to integrating as many sustainable features<br />
as possible—including a passive solar heating<br />
system. Still, from the outside, they wanted<br />
their home to have the appearance of a seasoned<br />
beach house.<br />
“We kept the image of a coastal weathered<br />
gray cottage in our heads, and we’ve always<br />
liked the way that Craftsman bungalows feel,<br />
with taller ceilings, trim work and built-ins,”<br />
says St. John.<br />
In the end, the trim they installed was<br />
made from poplar harvested less than ten<br />
miles from their home. The exterior siding<br />
is made from regional Western red cedar,<br />
known for its ability to withstand coastal<br />
weather. Inside, the stairs and beams are<br />
regional Douglas fir, and the banister is<br />
made from Central Oregon juniper. Even<br />
their kitchen cabinets are made from a<br />
regional wood, alder.<br />
The couple looked to Sarah Susanka’s,<br />
The Not So Big House series to help them<br />
create thoughtful, compact spaces that<br />
lived larger. “The hearth as the center of<br />
our family living space was important to<br />
us,” explains St. John, and a Tulikivi stove<br />
proved to be the perfect solution.<br />
Though St. John and Chisholm’s bedroom<br />
ended up on the ground floor, they haven’t<br />
missed out on what may well be the best<br />
part about living at the coast—listening<br />
to the calming waves of the Pacific Ocean<br />
at night.<br />
by Addie Hahn<br />
photos by Joni Kabana and Michael Davis<br />
56 1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong>
Project: St. John and Chisholm Residence<br />
Architect: HGE, Inc.<br />
Location: Coos Bay, Oregon<br />
1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong> 57
Project: Price and Keller Residence<br />
architect: John Duffié<br />
Location: Ashland, Oregon<br />
“It takes a bit more thinking<br />
and intention when living in<br />
a passive solar house ...<br />
It connects you a lot more<br />
with nature.”<br />
FIFTEEN YEARS AGO, John Price visited a<br />
house that made a big impression on him.<br />
The home sat off the grid and relied on<br />
natural forces and materials to provide its<br />
inhabitants with warmth and electricity.<br />
Price was drawn to the way its careful design<br />
imposed an unusually close relationship<br />
between the homeowner and the natural<br />
surroundings. Some day, he decided, he<br />
would “build a house that worked with<br />
nature rather than dominating it.”<br />
As Price discovered, designing a one-ofa-kind,<br />
green home requires a willingness<br />
to do your own research and the patience<br />
to carry through the selection and revision<br />
processes. This past August, he and<br />
his partner, Erin Keller, were officially able<br />
to move in to the home that they had long<br />
dreamt about.<br />
With the aid of seasoned architect John<br />
Duffié of Medford, they decided to build a<br />
1,480-square-foot, Craftsman straw bale<br />
home with a passive solar design in the historic<br />
district of Ashland. Straw is known<br />
for its insulating properties, and Price and<br />
Keller were able to use locally grown straw.<br />
The homeowners anticipated some resistance<br />
to their design in a neighborhood<br />
known for its older, clapboard siding homes,<br />
but were heartened to find the historic commission<br />
receptive to their plans.<br />
“Since building, our neighbors’ reactions<br />
have been extremely positive,” explains<br />
58 1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong>
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Oregon Living<br />
Design<br />
green FeaTUres<br />
Compact 1,480 square feet • Locally sourced straw bale • Passive solar<br />
design • Hybrid convective air slab (solar slab) • Wastewater heat recovery<br />
system • Gas tankless water heater • Tulikivi soapstone stove • R55 ceiling<br />
insulation with radiant barrier • Operable roof vent designed to release<br />
excess heat • Thermal drapes and blinds • Ecotop countertops (Kliptech) •<br />
American Clay Plaster interior finishes • Non-VOC stains and fini shes on interior<br />
cabinets and woodwork • Energy Star appliances • Dual flush toilets •<br />
Low flow showerheads and faucets<br />
Price. “Most Ashlanders are very supportive<br />
of sustainable design.”<br />
Inside, the walls are finished with environmentally<br />
safe American Clay Plaster, giving<br />
them a buttery smooth texture. With no carpeting,<br />
forced air heating, or toxic finishes,<br />
the air quality is excellent, too.<br />
A beloved Tulikivi soapstone stove from<br />
Finland burns wood at such a high temperature<br />
that it keeps the house warm for twelve<br />
hours at a time while emitting little air pollution.<br />
Architect Duffié’s favorite feature is the<br />
innovative hybrid convective air slab, or solar<br />
slab, which makes use of a series of channels<br />
beneath the floor to circulate and siphon<br />
warm air throughout the space.<br />
“It takes a bit more thinking and intention<br />
when living in a passive solar house,” explains<br />
Price. “Opening and closing thermal blinds<br />
to let the sun in, deciding when we may need<br />
to use the stove to supplement heating—you<br />
don’t just throw a switch and forget about<br />
it.” Still, much as he anticipated years ago, he<br />
and Keller are finding this new way of living<br />
rewarding. “It connects you a lot more with<br />
nature,” says Price.<br />
60 1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong>
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Oregon Living<br />
Home Grown<br />
Crabbing<br />
the Oregon Coast<br />
A generations-old tradition, crabbing is Oregon’s<br />
maritime bounty, Corey Rock’s “cowboy” lifestyle<br />
and the tastiest catch for these four recipes<br />
Crab<br />
Recipes<br />
by Cathy Carroll<br />
photos by Joni Kabana<br />
>><br />
The ringtone on Corey Rock’s cell<br />
phone is “Patience” by Guns N’ Roses,<br />
but for this third-generation fisherman in<br />
Newport, patience is of little use when it’s<br />
crab season.<br />
“My father’s a great fisherman, and<br />
he always says that in crabbing, there’s<br />
the quick and the dead,” says Rock, 38.<br />
“There’s only so much crab out there, and<br />
they’ll all be caught up. It’s just a matter of<br />
who’s going to do it.”<br />
An Oregon crabber will bring in an<br />
average of 150,000 pounds of Dungeness<br />
crab, which wholesales for an average of<br />
$2 per pound. The commercial crabbing<br />
season begins in December and lasts for<br />
three months. The short season breeds<br />
long risks.<br />
In a typical December along the Oregon<br />
coast, waves reach about 12 feet, but at<br />
least once a year, swells of 20 feet or higher<br />
will threaten crab fishermen, says Rock.<br />
“There is a lot of wind. You’re pulling<br />
in your gear, securing things on deck,<br />
shutting the doors down tight, and you jog<br />
into it. You point the bow into the weather<br />
at a crawl, enough so you can steer.”<br />
But that doesn’t diminish his love for<br />
a job that is in his blood. For Rock, the<br />
tradition began when his grandfather,<br />
Archie Rock, took up fishing on the<br />
central Oregon coast after the logging<br />
dried up in the Medford area. His father,<br />
Joe Rock, followed in his wake, and now<br />
three generations of the family have made<br />
their living from pulling Dungeness crab<br />
from the Oregon coastal waters.<br />
“It’s one of the last things where you can<br />
wake up in the morning and you have no<br />
idea what’s going to happen,” he says. “It’s<br />
the last cowboy-ish thing to do.”<br />
When the tide is high, Rock steers<br />
the Kylie Lynn, a 73-foot shrimp trawler<br />
from the Louisiana Gulf Coast that<br />
Rock modified for West Coast crabbing,<br />
62 1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong>
“It’s one of the last things<br />
where you can wake up in<br />
the morning and you have no<br />
idea what’s going to happen …<br />
It’s the last cowboy-ish<br />
thing to do.”<br />
Corey Rock, third-generation<br />
crab fisherman from Seal Rock<br />
1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong> 63
CLoCkwise: the crabbing fleet in newport just before the commercial season gets under<br />
way. Boiling pots of freshly caught dungeness. if you're catching your own, bring a bucket<br />
of ice to store your catch. a fresh crabmeat cocktail at Local ocean seafoods.<br />
Home grown<br />
Oregon Living<br />
through the channel from the Yaquina<br />
Bay and out to sea. For three to five days<br />
a week for months, he leaves his wife,<br />
Maria, and children, Kyle, 9, and Kylie<br />
Lynn, 7, stalking crab 10 to 20 miles off<br />
shore. in that way, the job of a crabber is<br />
unchanged since it began on the Pacific<br />
Coast in the late 1800s.<br />
Maria, used to go out on the jetty at<br />
newport at the start of each season to<br />
watch him sail out on the Kylie Lynn with<br />
his crew of three. no more.<br />
“We’ve had boats not make it over<br />
the bar, and go out opening day of crab<br />
season, flip over and lose four guys,” says<br />
Maria, who has been on the board of the<br />
newport Fishermen’s Wives Association<br />
for nine years. “it’s a time of year when<br />
fishermen are desperate—sometimes too<br />
desperate—and they make bad choices.”<br />
instead of going out to the jetty, Maria<br />
talks with their children about their<br />
father being away most of the next two<br />
months.<br />
“it’s just something you kind of get<br />
used to,” Maria says. “The better part<br />
Crabbing by the numbers<br />
Oregon is the leading producer of<br />
Dungeness crab<br />
Predominant species of crabs on the<br />
Oregon coast: Dungeness and<br />
Japanese red rock<br />
Oregon processed 13 million<br />
pounds of Dungeness crabs in 2008<br />
Biggest harvest:<br />
33.6 million pounds in 2004-05<br />
the commercial crabbing<br />
season lasts from<br />
December 1 to August 14,<br />
with 80% of landings in the<br />
first eight weeks<br />
of the season<br />
of our marriage i’ve spent missing my<br />
husband, but when he comes home, it’s<br />
special.”<br />
The Dungeness crab is the official<br />
state crustacean, and on the coast,<br />
it is as iconic as the Douglas fir, the<br />
hazelnut and the American beaver.<br />
According to the oregon Dungeness<br />
Crab Commission, the species was<br />
reportedly named after a small fishing<br />
village on the straight of Juan de Fuca in<br />
Washington.<br />
Dungeness are caught in circular<br />
steel crab pots, which are attached to<br />
a line and buoy. squid or razor clams<br />
are used as bait for the crabs dwelling<br />
on the ocean floor. Fishermen like rock<br />
bring in 150,000 to 300,000 pounds of<br />
crabs in a good season, keeping only<br />
the mature males. Through these and<br />
other sustainable fishing practices, the<br />
oregon Dungeness Crab Commission<br />
has earned the support of such groups<br />
as the Monterey Bay Aquarium, the<br />
Audubon society, natural resource<br />
Defense Council and the environmental<br />
Defense Fund.<br />
December through February is<br />
the peak oregon Dungeness crab<br />
commercial fishing season, though<br />
less intensive recreational crabbing<br />
continues along oregon beaches<br />
through August 14.<br />
oregon native James Beard, anointed<br />
the “dean of American cookery” by<br />
the New York Times in 1954, called<br />
Dungeness a “meal the gods intended<br />
only for the pure in palate.” As the<br />
author of several seminal cookbooks,<br />
appearances on television’s first cooking<br />
shows, and writing for Gourmet<br />
and other magazines, Beard<br />
became a global presence in<br />
gastronomy. he established the<br />
James Beard Cooking school<br />
before he died in 1985.<br />
Do Your own<br />
Crabbing on the<br />
Coast<br />
THE BASICS<br />
When:<br />
Year-round, but<br />
crabs are meatier in<br />
high and low tides<br />
during the fall<br />
Where:<br />
Bays, estuaries, tide pools, beaches, docks<br />
and jetties<br />
What You'll need:<br />
A shellfish license that you can buy for<br />
$6.50 from Oregon Department of Fish<br />
and wildlife. the license limit is 12 crabs.<br />
A crab-measuring implement or a ruler,<br />
a crab pot or ring<br />
A cooler<br />
Bait holders and bait<br />
How to Crab:<br />
Check all line on crab pots or rings for kinks<br />
or knots to ensure they are durable and will<br />
allow gear to crab correctly.<br />
Bait your crab pot with chicken, herring<br />
or clams; or to avert interest from seals<br />
and sea lions, use turkey legs.<br />
tie your line to the dock and throw<br />
your crab pot into the water, and<br />
allow 30-45 minutes.<br />
Pull in your pot and sort through them<br />
quickly to gently return to the water all<br />
undersized crabs (less than 5 ¾ inches<br />
across), any softshell and all female crabs.<br />
Males have a thin arrowhead-shaped<br />
abdomen. Females have shorter and<br />
rounder abdomens. the keepers are<br />
males whose shells are hard and measure<br />
at least 5 ¾ inches across, not including the<br />
sharp points on either side of the shell.<br />
Store legal crabs in a bucket with<br />
frequently changed water.<br />
1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong> 65
Sat.is.fac.tion, noun<br />
1. The fulfillment or gratification of a desire, need<br />
or appetite. 2. Pleasure derived from the gratification<br />
of a desire or appetite. 3. A source of gratification;<br />
see Oregon Dungeness crab…<br />
With Oregon’s Dungeness crab harvest in full<br />
swing, now is the perfect time to satisfy your<br />
craving for the crustacean James Beard described<br />
as “…sheer, unadulterated crab heaven.”<br />
Indulge your appetite at home with friends and<br />
family, at your favorite seafood restaurant or with<br />
perfect strangers at one of the many coastal ‘crab<br />
feeds’ so popular this time of year.<br />
Oregon Dungeness: kind of makes you want to smile…<br />
For cooking & cracking instructions, tantalizing recipes and more information, visit us on the web at<br />
www.oregon ungeness.org or contact us at 1-800-707-CRAB for a free plastic bib.
Stuffed Salmon with Bay Shrimp & Crab<br />
(serves 4)<br />
From McCormick & Schmick’s Seafood Restaurants<br />
Stuffed Salmon<br />
1 cup beurre blanc sauce (recipe below)<br />
4 5-ounce salmon fillets<br />
6 ounces bay shrimp<br />
6 ounces Dungeness crab meat<br />
6 ounce brie cheese, cut into ½ inch cubes<br />
3 tablespoon mayonnaise<br />
1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill<br />
Pinch of salt and pepper<br />
Preheat oven to 400°F. Prepare the beurre<br />
blanc sauce and set aside. Split the salmon<br />
fillets lengthwise to form a pocket for the<br />
stuffing. Combine the shrimp, crab, brie, dill,<br />
salt and pepper. Gently blend in the mayonnaise<br />
to bind the mixture. Divide the stuffing<br />
mixture between the four pocketed fillets.<br />
When full, let the flaps cover the stuffing so<br />
that only a small amount is exposed. Bake in<br />
a lightly buttered baking dish for 10 to 12 minutes.<br />
Transfer to dinner plates and spoon the<br />
beurre blanc over the fish. Combine wine,<br />
vinegar, peppercorns and shallot in a noncorrosive<br />
saucepan (stainless steel, Teflon,<br />
Beurre Blanc Sauce<br />
(makes 1 cup)<br />
6 ounces white wine<br />
3 ounces white wine vinegar<br />
3 whole black peppercorns<br />
1 shallot, quartered<br />
1 cup heavy cream<br />
6 ounces cold, unsalted butter,<br />
cut into pieces<br />
3 ounces cold, salted butter,<br />
cut into pieces<br />
Calphalon). Reduce until the mixture is just 1 to<br />
2 tablespoons and has the consistency of syrup.<br />
Add the cream and reduce again until the mixture<br />
is 3 to 4 tablespoons and very syrupy. Remove<br />
the pan from heat. Add the butter pieces,<br />
about 2 ounces at a time, stirring constantly and<br />
allowing each piece to melt in before adding<br />
more. (If the mixture cools too much, the butter<br />
will not melt completely and you will have<br />
to reheat it slightly. Strain and hold warm on a<br />
stove-top trivet or in a double-boiler over very<br />
low heat until you are ready to use.<br />
“Voila! It was a picnic that was just<br />
over-the-top delicious,” Newman recalls.<br />
“It was the picture of bounty, and how<br />
fortunate we are here.”<br />
In Portland, Dungeness appears on<br />
seasonal menus at Jake’s Famous Crawfish,<br />
a downtown landmark for more<br />
than 110 years and considered one of<br />
America’s top seafood restaurants. It<br />
features more than thirty types of fresh<br />
fish and seafood, with an emphasis on<br />
traditionally prepared fresh Northwest<br />
products.<br />
It is one of the McCormick &<br />
Schmick’s Seafood Restaurants, where<br />
Bill King is vice president of training<br />
and culinary development. King came<br />
to Oregon thirty-two years ago, after<br />
beginning his career on the Atlantic<br />
Coast, in and around his hometown,<br />
Wilmington, Delaware.<br />
Dungeness is as popular in Oregon<br />
today as it was then, King says. He considers<br />
the subtle sweetness of the meat best<br />
suited to being served cold, in salads and<br />
appetizers.<br />
“I love nothing more than eating a whole<br />
crab in the shell, cracking it, and taking<br />
the time to pick it apart and eating it cold,<br />
dipped in mayonnaise with a little Tabasco,”<br />
he says. “The absolute premier portion<br />
of crab is the legs, when you get the<br />
white meat out of the shell, you have these<br />
football shaped pieces that are as sweet as<br />
anything, and they have a little more flavor<br />
and body and great texture.”<br />
The texture holds up well to being sautéed,<br />
in crab cakes and used in stuffing, for<br />
dozens of recipes, says King, whose cookbook,<br />
A Chef’s Bounty, has recipes featuring<br />
crab and other local ingredients—from<br />
Marionberry elk chops to hazelnut-crusted<br />
venison.<br />
The process of deftly extracting crab<br />
from its shell and savoring each bit is a<br />
gastronomic pleasure linked to one of<br />
King’s best memories. He had just begun<br />
working as a chef at the original McCormick<br />
& Schmick’s, formerly on First and<br />
Oak streets in Portland. It was one of the<br />
first dinner dates he ever had with his<br />
wife, Jennifer, whom he had been dating<br />
for about six months.<br />
“We each ordered Dungeness crab, and<br />
we sat and ate and talked, sipping some crisp<br />
white wine for about three hours, picking<br />
away at the crab and getting to know each<br />
other,” King says. “I have vivid memories of<br />
that, and that’s part of why I still love eating<br />
Dungeness that way today.”<br />
1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong> 67
Oregon Living<br />
Home grown<br />
Dungeness Crab Sliders<br />
with Green Curry Mayonnaise<br />
and Apple, Fennel and Walnut Slaw<br />
by Lisa Glickman<br />
photos by Paula Watts<br />
Oregon<br />
Home<br />
Grown<br />
Who LiVes in A PineAPPLe<br />
under the sea? if you have a 9-yearold<br />
like i do, you probably know the<br />
answer to that question. spongeBob<br />
himself would approve of this tasty<br />
crabby patty slider. i have eaten spider<br />
crab from the Mediterranean, blue<br />
crab in new england, stone crab in<br />
Miami, soft shell crab in Louisiana<br />
and even the impostor “crab with<br />
a K,” but, in my opinion, nothing<br />
compares with the delicate sweet<br />
flavor of the Dungeness crab found<br />
here in the northwest. An afternoon<br />
of picking crab from the Bell Buoy<br />
in seaside, oregon is just as much<br />
of a beach activity as a long walk on<br />
the promenade, flying a kite on the<br />
beach or twenty mindless games of<br />
“Fascination.”<br />
This recipe adds lots of flavor<br />
without losing the delicious texture<br />
of the Dungeness crab. You can buy<br />
Dungeness crab meat at most good<br />
grocery stores here in oregon, or you<br />
can spend the afternoon cracking<br />
your own whole cooked crabs. Try to<br />
keep the succulent legs and knuckles<br />
intact and also try not to eat all the<br />
crab before it makes it into the patty.<br />
i gave a nod to the Waldorf salad in<br />
the Apple Fennel slaw. The sweet slaw<br />
pairs well with the crab. You can use<br />
regular white sugar in the dressing, if<br />
you don’t have the agave nectar, but<br />
the agave adds a tasty dimension .<br />
craB pattieS<br />
(serves 4-6)<br />
1 pound Dungeness crab meat<br />
strained and squeezed of excess liquid<br />
1 tablespoon unsalted butter<br />
1 small red pepper finely chopped<br />
1 large shallot finely chopped<br />
½ cup fresh bread crumbs (about 2<br />
slices of bread; crusts trimmed)<br />
2 tablespoons milk<br />
¼ cup mayonnaise<br />
¼ teaspoon thai chili paste<br />
(sambal oelek) Juice and<br />
grated rind of ½ lemon<br />
1 teaspoon Old Bay Seasoning<br />
½ teaspoon worcestershire sauce<br />
½ teaspoon dry mustard<br />
1 egg<br />
2 cups panko bread crumbs<br />
Olive oil for frying<br />
Green curry mayonnaiSe<br />
½ cup good quality mayonnaise<br />
1 teaspoon green curry paste<br />
(or more to taste)<br />
½ teaspoon fresh squeezed lemon juice<br />
apple, fennel and Walnut SlaW<br />
Dressing<br />
¼ cup mayonnaise<br />
¼ cup plain Greek yogurt<br />
½ teaspoon Dijon mustard<br />
2 tablespoons walnut oil<br />
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar<br />
3 teaspoons agave nectar<br />
½ teaspoons celery seeds<br />
Kosher salt and black pepper to taste<br />
Slaw<br />
2 fennel bulbs tops and bottoms<br />
trimmed, cored and thinly sliced<br />
1 honeycrisp apple; peel left on,<br />
julienned (or grated)<br />
2 celery stalks sliced thin<br />
½ cup toasted walnuts<br />
Mix mayonnaise ingredients together in small<br />
bowl. Melt butter in a sauté pan and sauté<br />
peppers and shallots over medium heat until<br />
tender, 5-6 minutes. Place in larger bowl and<br />
let cool. Place bread crumbs and milk in a small<br />
bowl and set aside. In another small bowl<br />
mix mayonnaise, chili paste, lemon juice and<br />
rind, Old Bay, Worcestershire, dry mustard and<br />
egg. Add crab meat to cooled vegetables. Toss<br />
gently to mix. Add softened bread crumbs and<br />
mayonnaise mixture. Stir gently, trying not to<br />
break up the crab meat. With your hands form<br />
into patties and coat with panko (mixture will be<br />
a bit hard to handle) and place patties on baking<br />
sheet covered with parchment. Chill patties for<br />
an hour or up to 4 hours. Preheat oven to 350°F.<br />
Fry patties in hot oil until golden brown on both<br />
sides and place on baking sheet. Bake in hot<br />
oven for about 10 minutes until cooked through.<br />
Serve on buns with lettuce and green curry<br />
mayonnaise. Mix dressing ingredients together<br />
and toss with slaw. Add toasted walnuts. Season<br />
with kosher salt and pepper to taste.<br />
68 1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong>
Crab, Mango & Avocado Salad<br />
(serves 4)<br />
From McCormick & Schmick’s Restaurants<br />
salad<br />
¾ cup diced mango<br />
¾ cup diced avocado<br />
10 ounces Dungeness crab meat<br />
4 tablespoons pomegranate reduction<br />
or light syrup<br />
4 tablespoons citrus-flavored vinaigrette<br />
4 tablespoons chive oil<br />
(see recipe below)<br />
½ cup micro greens or spicy sprouts<br />
tossed in a small amount of the<br />
citrus vinaigrette, for garnish<br />
chive oil<br />
2 bunches fresh chives<br />
½ cup vegetable oil<br />
To create the “tower,” place a 2-inch ring<br />
mold on a serving plate. Spoon two heaping<br />
tablespoons of diced mango into the mold.<br />
Layer two heaping tablespoons of avocado<br />
on top of the mango into the mold. Finish<br />
with 1 ½ ounces of Dungeness crab meat<br />
to fill the mold. Press down lightly to set<br />
the ingredients. Keeping your fingers or a<br />
spoon on top of the mold, apply pressure,<br />
and gently slide the ring mold up and off<br />
of the salad. Rinse and dry the mold before<br />
moving on to the remaining plates. Garnish<br />
the top of each salad with the micro greens.<br />
Drizzle pomegranate reduction, citrus<br />
vinaigrette, and chive oil on the plate and<br />
around the tower. Blend the chives and<br />
oil in a blender for 5 minutes. Place the<br />
finished oil into a squirt bottle and set aside.<br />
The oil may be made a day ahead of time.<br />
Dungeness Crab Cakes<br />
(serves 2 as a main course or 4 as an appetizer)<br />
From Newmans at 988, Cannon Beach<br />
Crab Cake Mixture<br />
½ pound cooked Dungeness crabmeat<br />
2 ounces shelled, tailed, and de-veined<br />
prawn or shrimp meat<br />
2 ounces fresh scallops<br />
4 tablespoons heavy cream<br />
Juice of ½ a lemon<br />
¼ cup chopped chives<br />
¼ cup chopped fresh parsley<br />
Salt and freshly ground black pepper<br />
Lemon Aioli<br />
(makes about ¾ cup)<br />
2 egg yolks<br />
Juice of ½ a lemon<br />
1 garlic clove, minced<br />
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard<br />
½ cup olive oil<br />
Balsamic Syrup<br />
1 cup balsamic vinegar<br />
Salt and freshly ground black<br />
pepper to taste<br />
Fresh chopped chives for garnish<br />
Pick through cooked crabmeat and remove<br />
shells. Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil or<br />
butter in a large skillet over medium-high<br />
heat. Form 1/4-cup portions of crab mixture<br />
into small patties, about ½ -inch thick. Fry<br />
the cakes on both sides until golden brown,<br />
about 4 minutes per side. To serve: Arrange<br />
hot crab cakes on a plate and sprinkle with<br />
chopped chives. Drizzle a touch of balsamic<br />
syrup around the edges and serve with<br />
lemon aioli on the side.<br />
In a mixing bowl, whisk egg yolks until thick<br />
and lemon colored. Whisk in lemon juice,<br />
garlic and mustard, mixing well. Gradually<br />
add olive oil, mixing steadily, until<br />
it is incorporated. If the mixture is too<br />
thick, substitute a bit of water for the<br />
oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper.<br />
Cover and store in the refrigerator<br />
until needed.<br />
Pour 1 cup Balsamic vinegar into a<br />
saucepan. Bring to a boil and simmer<br />
rapidly until reduced to the consistency<br />
of maple syrup. Set aside. In a food<br />
processor, combine prawns, scallops,<br />
cream, lemon juice and salt and pepper<br />
to taste. Purée until smooth. Transfer<br />
the mousseline to a mixing bowl and<br />
gently fold in crabmeat, chives and<br />
parsley. Cover with plastic wrap and chill<br />
until needed.<br />
1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong> 69
Central Oregon Getaway Guide<br />
1.1-1.3<br />
STRANGE MATTER EXHIBIT AT<br />
THE HIGH DESERT MUSEUM<br />
Play with magnetic liquids, bounce ball<br />
bearings, see a climbing tower of foam,<br />
and do hands-on materials science<br />
discovery. Bend; highdesertmuseum.org<br />
1.1-3.31<br />
BEAD, GEMSTONE<br />
AND JEWELRY SHOW<br />
Fabulous inventory importing<br />
worldwide. Featuring hard-to-find<br />
stone beads such as ruby, sapphire,<br />
emerald and baltic amber. Don’t bead?<br />
Sign up for a free beginner class on<br />
Sunday. Bend; 509.460.2868<br />
1.1-3.31<br />
GPS ECO-CHALLENGE TOURS<br />
Learn about the history of Bend with<br />
family, friends or co-workers through<br />
a GPS guided tour that starts on the<br />
Deschutes River in the Old Mill District.<br />
Bend; wanderlusttours.com<br />
1.5-3.31<br />
TOTALLY TOUCHABLE TALES<br />
Storytelling that opens preschoolers’<br />
eyes, ears, and hearts to the natural and<br />
cultural wonders of the High Desert.<br />
Activities include puppet play and craft<br />
projects. Bend; highdesertmuseum.org<br />
1.6-1.31<br />
WILD WEDNESDAYS<br />
Kids 7-12 will discover obscure parts of<br />
the High Desert Museum on weekly<br />
scavenger hunts. Use an adventure map<br />
to find all the hidden treasure chest and<br />
get a prize! Bend; highdesertmuseum.org<br />
1.9-1.10<br />
HIGH CASCADE ENTER THE<br />
DRAGON SLALOM EVENT<br />
High Cascade Snowboard Camp offers<br />
this sanctioned event for all ages. Bend;<br />
mtbachelor.com<br />
1.10 and 3.14<br />
HOT CHOCOLATE RUN<br />
Participate in a 5- to 8-mile trail<br />
run. Afterwards, meet new Bendites<br />
while enjoying hot cocoa, coffee, and<br />
bagels. Shevlin Park at 9 a.m. Bend;<br />
footzonebend.com<br />
Lake Creek Lodge, Camp Sherman<br />
When you stay in one of our cabins, near the<br />
meandering Metolius River, time seems to slow down.<br />
Your shoulders relax. Your blood pressure drops. And you<br />
begin to notice the majestic sound of the wind in the pines<br />
instead of your cell phone ringing. Take advantage of our<br />
winter special ~ Stay for 2 nights and the 3rd night is FREE!<br />
800.797.6331www<br />
Jen's Garden, Sisters<br />
900 Wall, Bend<br />
Formerly Merenda, this upscale downtown restaurant<br />
and bar is the center of Bend buzz. Surf<br />
and turf with a Pacific Northwest ethic, the new<br />
900 Wall is more affordable than its predecessor.<br />
Many wines by the glass and a full bar.<br />
541.323.6295 900wall.com<br />
lakecreeklodge.com<br />
In the cute town of Sisters, Jen's Garden is an intimate<br />
cottage with wonderful French cuisine, fresh<br />
local ingredients and an extensive wine list. Thursday<br />
through Sunday enjoy the five-course dinner.<br />
541.549.2699 intimatecottagecuisine.com<br />
Cascade Lakes Brewing Company Lodge, Bend<br />
The top spot for the post-mountain bike ride and aprés<br />
ski, The Lodge has some of the best craft beers in a<br />
town known for microbrews. The Blonde Bombshell<br />
goes nicely with an ambitious pub-grub menu. Bar<br />
and restaurant with pool, darts and large screen TVs.<br />
541.388.4998 cascadelakes.com<br />
FivePine Lodge, Sisters<br />
Rustic luxury is the name of the game at Five Pine Lodge,<br />
a 35-acre retreat straddling the town of Sisters and the<br />
Deschutes National Forest. Stay in one of the eight<br />
cozy rooms in the main lodge or opt for one of the 24<br />
detached cottage suites tucked among towering Ponderosa<br />
pines.<br />
541.549.5900 fivepinelodge.com<br />
>> Recreation Guide for Central Oregon<br />
at 1859magazine.com<br />
70 1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong>
Central Oregon Getaway Guide<br />
Typhoon!, Bend<br />
"This is Thai food the way you always wished it would<br />
taste," said Bon Appétit, lauding chef-owner Bo Kline<br />
as one of the "hottest chefs in America." Praised in rave<br />
reviews throughout the nation, Bo and Typhoon! have<br />
become icons of the Northwest food scene. Typhoon!<br />
blends classic Thai hospitality, flavor and elegance in<br />
an inspired menu marked with modest prices.<br />
541.385.8885 typhoonrestaurants.com<br />
Pine Ridge Inn, Bend<br />
Situated on a bluff overlooking the Deschutes<br />
River Canyon, just outside the city center and<br />
on the road to Mt. Bachelor Ski area, Pine Ridge<br />
Inn is at the heart of rich recreation of Central<br />
Oregon. Perfect for any occasion! Wine Social<br />
and hot homemade breakfast included.<br />
800.600.4095 pineridgeinn.com<br />
Old Mill Shopping District, bend<br />
Bend’s unique shopping, dining, entertainment and<br />
working experience. Located on land along the Deschutes<br />
River that formerly housed one of the world’s largest sawmill<br />
operations, the Old Mill District now has more than<br />
49 businesses including such national retailers as Banana<br />
Republic, REI, Victoria’s Secret and the Gap.<br />
541.312.0131 theoldmill.com<br />
The Oxford Hotel, Bend<br />
Discover a hip urban oasis in the middle of the great<br />
outdoors. Located in the heart of historic downtown,<br />
The Oxford Hotel is Bends first and only boutique<br />
hotel, with 59 stylish suites and amenities that will<br />
satisfy every whim. Come, experience a side of Bend<br />
youve never seen before.<br />
541.382.8436 oxfordhotelbend.com<br />
Desert Pine Properties, bend<br />
Desert Pine Properties offers lodging in distinctive vacation<br />
homes in Central Oregon. Experience a yearlong<br />
menu of entertainment, activities and fine dining. Let<br />
Desert Pine Properties arrange a visit to Central Oregon<br />
for you and your family, a business retreat, romantic<br />
getaway or great adventure.<br />
541.728.6273 desertpineproperties.com<br />
1.28<br />
Peking acrobats<br />
Breathtaking feats of dexterity, grace,<br />
and strenth for the whole family. They<br />
perform daring maneuvers atop a<br />
precarious pagoda of chairs; they are<br />
experts at treacherous wire-walking,<br />
trick-cycling, precision tumbling,<br />
somersaulting, and gymnastics. Bend;<br />
towertheatre.org<br />
2.5-3.5<br />
FIRST FRIDAY GALLERY WALK<br />
The First Friday Gallery Walk in<br />
downtown Bend celebrates Bend’s<br />
cultural arts on the first Friday of each<br />
month. Bend; bendgalleries.com<br />
2.12-2.14<br />
BEND WINTERFEST<br />
Ice-carving, fireworks, Mojo Music<br />
Eruption, children’s activities, the<br />
snowboard and ski rail jam, ice skating,<br />
wine, a light show and the exciting<br />
cross-country ski sprint races in the Old<br />
Mill District. Bend; bendwinterfest.com<br />
2.27-2.28<br />
cove palisades eagle watch<br />
Join bird-watchers at Cove Palisades<br />
Park near Lake Billy Chinook for live<br />
birds of prey, renowned guest speakers,<br />
field viewing sessions, fun contests,<br />
prizes and more. oregonstateparks.org<br />
3.15<br />
fireside piano concert<br />
Young Italian pianist Roberto Plano,<br />
a 2005 Van Cliburn Finalist and a<br />
2001 Cleveland International Piano<br />
Competition Winner, plays the Historic<br />
Great Hall at the Sunriver Resort 7:30-<br />
9:30. Sunriver; sunrivermusic.org<br />
3.16<br />
celtic tenors<br />
The Celtic Tenors pioneer a new style of<br />
‘cool’ never before seen on the classical<br />
stage and break the traditional stuffy<br />
tenor mold. Bend; towertheatre.org<br />
3.20<br />
the irish rovers<br />
For 45 years they have made every<br />
day St. Patty's Day with "The Unicorn,"<br />
"Wasn't That A Party" and their unique<br />
sense of humor. Hear them perform<br />
in a small intimate space at the Tower<br />
Theatre. Bend; towertheatre.org<br />
1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong> 71<br />
>> Real Estate Guide for Central Oregon<br />
at 1859magazine.com
The Coast Getaway Guide<br />
1.1-5.31<br />
WHALE WATCHING<br />
ON THE OREGON COAST<br />
Witness a winter gray whale cruise<br />
along the Oregon Coast en route<br />
from Alaska to Mexico. Depoe Bay;<br />
whalespoken.org<br />
1.1-2.13<br />
COLLAGE REGIONAL ART EXHIBIT<br />
On the Cutting Edge-Collage Regional<br />
Art Exhibit, Maggie Karl Gallery at Coos<br />
Art Museum. Coos Bay; coosart.org<br />
1.16-1.18<br />
FISHER POETS ON THE EDGE<br />
Saturday afternoon free films at the<br />
Newport Public Library. Saturday<br />
evening, FisherPoets Main Event at<br />
the Oregon Coast Aquarium. Sunday<br />
morning, open mic and hearty brunch<br />
buffet at the Yaquina Bay Yacht Club on<br />
the Newport Bay. Newport;<br />
fisherpoets.writersontheedge.org<br />
1.20-1.21<br />
sand Dollar drop<br />
Handcrafted glass sand dollar drop on<br />
Lincoln City beaches. More than 300<br />
handcrafted glass sand dollars will<br />
await discovery, weather and ocean<br />
permitting. newportchamber.org<br />
1.23-1.24<br />
WINTER FOLK FESTIVAL<br />
Enjoy a weekend of live music, crafts<br />
and more. Featuring Misty River<br />
and The Brothers Four. A youth folk<br />
music talent competition on Saturday.<br />
Florence; winterfolkfestival.org<br />
1.30<br />
Oregon pinots in astoria<br />
Sample many different styles of Pinot<br />
Noir made here in Oregon – from the<br />
big name top producers, to the small<br />
boutique producer. 1-4 p.m. at the<br />
Cellar on 10th, located in the Astoria<br />
Underground at the corner of 10th &<br />
Marine Drive in Downtown Astoria;<br />
thecellaron10th.com<br />
2.11-2.13<br />
ART FROM OREGON'S PRISONS<br />
Mabel Hansen Gallery at Coos Art<br />
Museum. Coos Bay; coosart.org<br />
Ocean Lodge, Cannon Beach<br />
The Ocean Lodge is the place where simple fun and<br />
nostalgic pleasures come together. In Cannon Beach,<br />
the Ocean Lodge gives you the opportunity to walk<br />
out onto your deck, feel the sea mist and watch the<br />
breakers crash into Haystack Rock and over the pristine<br />
sands of Cannon Beach.<br />
888.777.4047 theoceanlodge.com<br />
Pelican Pub & Brewery, Pacific City<br />
Two words for you: beachfront microbrewery. Soak<br />
in picture-perfect views of Haystack Rock, sample<br />
award-winning ales and fuel up on fresh seafood,<br />
gourmet pizza and killer sandwiches.<br />
503.965.7007 pelicanbrewery.com<br />
Salishan Resort, Gleneden beach<br />
Enjoy the ambiance of fireplaces, take in the natural<br />
surroundings from your private balcony, or get some<br />
rest on luxury pillow-top bedding in one of 205 guest<br />
rooms. The resort’s par 71 course, winds through old<br />
growth timber on the front nine and offers linksstyle<br />
play on the back nine.<br />
800.452.2300 salishan.com<br />
Bandon Inn, Bandon<br />
Located on a bluff, the Bandon Inn overlooks Old<br />
Town Bandon, the marina, Coquille River and the<br />
Pacific Ocean. Miles of stunning beaches, beautiful<br />
sunsets, world-class golf and fine local dining all<br />
come together to make your stay at Bandon Inn a<br />
memorable experience.<br />
800.526.0209 bandoninn.com<br />
Overleaf Lodge, Yachats<br />
Every room has an ocean view at this fantastic lodge.<br />
Nightly accommodation includes continental breakfast<br />
featuring fresh baked items, cereal, fruit, egg<br />
dishes, juices, coffee and teas. Guests also enjoy free<br />
use of Overleaf spa facilities, including the soaking<br />
pool, hot tub, steam rooms and saunas.<br />
800.338.0507 overleaflodge.com<br />
>> Travel Guide for the Coast<br />
at 1859magazine.com<br />
72 1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong>
The Coast Getaway Guide<br />
Cannon Beach Café, Cannon Beach<br />
Tasty tropical fare, classic comfort food and original<br />
cocktails make the Cannon Beach Café one of<br />
the hottest hangouts in town. The Café, just steps<br />
from the beach in the historic Cannon Beach Hotel,<br />
is open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and every treat<br />
in between.<br />
503.436.2729 cannonbeachcafe.com<br />
Hotel Elliott, Astoria<br />
Welcome to Hotel Elliott, Astoria’s premier boutique<br />
hotel. Featuring 32 uniquely restored rooms and<br />
suites, this historic five-story hotel has undergone a<br />
dramatic three-year renovation that weds early 20th<br />
Century elegance and contemporary amenities—from<br />
cedar-lined closets to heated stone floors in each bath.<br />
877.378.1924 hotelelliott.com<br />
Mo's Restaurants<br />
No visit to the Oregon Coast is complete without a<br />
bowl of Mo’s famous clam chowder. The late<br />
Mo Niemi opened the original location in Newport<br />
in 1946 and eventually opened annexes in Cannon<br />
Beach, Florence, Lincoln City and Otter Rock.<br />
Whale Watching, Depoe Bay<br />
Gray Whales are often feeding close to shore<br />
near Depoe Bay in summer. Oregon Parks and<br />
Recreation Department park rangers are ready to<br />
answer your questions and help you find whales to<br />
watch at the Whale Watching Center in Depoe Bay.<br />
541.765.3304 whalespoken.org<br />
Sandpines Golf Links, Florence<br />
Nestled amidst wind-swept sand dunes and towering<br />
pines, Sandpines Golf Links is a breathtaking location<br />
for coastal golf. The Rees Jones designed course was<br />
honored as the "Best New Public Course in America" in<br />
1993. Sandpines also recently received a 4½ star rating<br />
from Golf Digest's list of "Places to Play in the USA."<br />
800.917.4653 sandpines.com<br />
2.13-2.14<br />
Wine, beer, seafood festival<br />
In Gardiner, bands from the Northwest<br />
perform various genres of music<br />
throughout the weekend. Oregon<br />
wineries and microbreweries offer<br />
tastings of their premium wines and<br />
microbrews. Gardiner; reedsportcc.org<br />
2.14<br />
ANNUAL CHARLESTON CRAB FEED<br />
Fresh Dungeness Crab Dinners,<br />
whole or half crabs at market price<br />
includes beans, salad, bread and<br />
beverage. All proceeds help support the<br />
Charleston Visitor Center. Charleston;<br />
oregonsadventurecoast.com<br />
2.26-2.28<br />
NEWPORT SEAFOOD<br />
and WINE FESTIVAL<br />
It wouldn’t be winter on the coast<br />
without the Newport Seafood & Wine<br />
Festival. It’s the premier seafood and<br />
wine event of the West Coast and the<br />
original Northwest seafood and wine<br />
festival. An amateur and commercial<br />
winemaker tournament. Newport;<br />
newportchamber.org<br />
3.13<br />
OREGON BERRY FESTIVAL<br />
Featuring a live cooking<br />
demonstration and more from 11 a.m.-<br />
2 p.m. Admission is free, with tasting<br />
portions available for a small fee.<br />
Lincoln City; oregoncoast.org<br />
3.20<br />
great oregon<br />
spring beach cleanup<br />
Your opportunity to help keep Oregon's<br />
beautiful beaches clean. Register online<br />
and choose one of over 40 beach sites<br />
to clean. This semiannual coast cleanup<br />
is sponsored by SOLV.<br />
Oregon Coast; solv.org<br />
3.20-3.27<br />
WHALE WATCHING WEEK<br />
Oregon’s Whale Watching Spoken Here<br />
program focuses on the peak times for<br />
gray whales migrating in sight of the<br />
coast. Depoe Bay; whalespoken.org<br />
541.265.2979 moschowder.com<br />
1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong> 73<br />
>> Dining Guide for the Coast<br />
at 1859magazine.com
Eastern Oregon Getaway Guide<br />
1.1<br />
ELKHORN CLASSIC<br />
30K classic cross-country ski race in the<br />
beautiful alpine setting at Ski Anthony<br />
Lakes Resort. Classic and freestyle<br />
races. North Powder; anthonylakes.com<br />
1.1-2.28<br />
Elk viewing<br />
What better way to see elk than in a<br />
horse-drawn wagon? Take the family<br />
on a horse-drawn elk viewing tour in<br />
North Powder; tnthorsemanship.com<br />
1.6<br />
WINTER BEACH PARTY<br />
AT ANTHONY LAKES RESORT<br />
A winter mountain beach party in the<br />
snow with a BBQ, Hula Hoop contest,<br />
tube luge and more.<br />
North Powder; anthonylakes.com<br />
1.21, 2.18, 3.18<br />
THIRD THURSDAY ART WALK<br />
Many galleries and shops host a<br />
celebration of the arts from 5 p.m.<br />
to 8 p.m. the third Thursday of each<br />
month. La Grande; visitlagrande.com<br />
1.30<br />
Elgin Stampede Crab Feed<br />
Come and join us at 4p.m. for great<br />
food, good company and a fun time.<br />
Crab is the main menu item but it will<br />
also include homemade potato salad,<br />
coleslaw, baked beans and garlic bread.<br />
Elgin; 541-963-2136<br />
2.26<br />
sleigh ride and bonfire<br />
Music, hot chocolate, an open sleigh<br />
tour of Baker City and a roaring bonfire.<br />
Baker City; geisergrand.com<br />
3.6<br />
SNOW BLAST<br />
A festival of fireworks, live music, a BBQ and<br />
more. North Powder; anthonylakes.com<br />
3.20<br />
ANTHONY LAKES<br />
WINTER TRIATHLON<br />
The Anthony Lakes <strong>Winter</strong> Triathlon<br />
is an individual event consisting of a<br />
3K run, a 3K mountain bike, and a 3K<br />
cross-country ski—all on snow! North<br />
Powder; anthonylakes.com<br />
Hell's Canyon jet boat<br />
Wallowa Lake Lodge, joseph<br />
Rustic and cozy, the Wallowa Lake Lodge was built<br />
in the 1920s but is updated for comfort in one of<br />
Oregon's most remote corners. It has 22 rooms and<br />
eight cabins, and all are different. Breakfast and dinner<br />
served daily.<br />
541.432.9821 wallowalakelodge.com<br />
Raft the incredibly gorgeous Hell's Canyon on a trip<br />
down the Snake River. Big Horn sheep and petroglyphs<br />
are just two discoveries that will take you<br />
back in time and back to nature.<br />
541.785.3352 hellscanyonadventures.com<br />
Tamástslikt Cultural Institute, Pendleton<br />
Tamástslikt Cultural Institute’s Living Culture Village, a vibrant,<br />
living display of traditional housing forms and Tribal<br />
crafts and culture, is open to visitors June-Oct. From ancient<br />
pit houses to more recent tipis, the village will include<br />
trained interpreters to explain traditional crafts. Tamástslikt<br />
is open 9-5 daily throughout the summer.<br />
541.966.9748 tamastslikt.org<br />
Historic Balch Hotel, Dufur<br />
Hand-built by area craftsmen in 1907, the historic<br />
Balch Hotel is furnished with period décor, and surrounded<br />
by rolling farming fields of golden wheat<br />
and green alfalfa. Enjoy nearby activities, including<br />
local area wineries, museums, golf, hiking, shopping,<br />
biking, rafting and fishing.<br />
541.667.2277 balchhotel.com<br />
Calderas Restaurant, Joseph<br />
Where art meets food in Joseph. The best steak in<br />
town is served over a hand-carved bar. Calderas<br />
owner and artist, Nancy Young Lincoln, also shows<br />
her incredible talent for fused-glass throughout.<br />
541.432.0585 calderasofjoseph.com<br />
>> Travel Guide for the Eastern Oregon<br />
at 1859magazine.com<br />
74 1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong>
mt. hood/the Gorge Getaway Guide<br />
hOOd river inn and riverSide grill<br />
The Hood River Inn is the perfect base for all the area offers<br />
in recreation, culture, and small-town charm. A fullservice<br />
hotel with dining at Riverside Grill and Cebu<br />
Lounge. Plus, Riverside Suites offer 1 to 3 bedroom<br />
deluxe accommodations. Easy access to Mt. Hood<br />
Meadows -- ski packages available.<br />
800-828-7873 www.hoodriverinn.com<br />
McMenaMinS edgefield, TrOuTdale<br />
McMenamins Edgefield was once the historic 1911<br />
county poor farm and is today a 74-acre estate with a<br />
hotel, restaurants, pubs, par-3 golf, a distillery, winery<br />
and tasting room, spa, soaking pool and more.<br />
Enjoy original artwork, gardens and live music during<br />
your daytrip or overnight visit.<br />
503.669.8810 mcmenamins.com<br />
celilO reSTauranT, hOOd river<br />
Celilo Restaurant and Bar brings in locally grown<br />
produce for a fresh dining experience of seafood and<br />
pasta complemented by an extensive wine list. Located<br />
in downtown Hood River, Celilo regularly features<br />
farmer, winemaker and special dinner events.<br />
SixTh STreeT BiSTrO, hOOd river<br />
A full-service restaurant offering the best the Northwest<br />
has to offer. Using local ranches, farms and forage<br />
and regional, seasonal produce whenever possible<br />
to provide the best experience for our customers.<br />
A dozen microbrews on tap, an extensive wine list<br />
and a full bar.<br />
541.386.5737 sixthstreetbistro.com<br />
Maryhill winery<br />
Chosen as the 2009 Washington Winery of the year by<br />
Wine Press Northwest, Maryhill Winery is located in<br />
the scenic Columbia River gorge and is a family owned<br />
winery producing over 15 varietals of wine that showcase<br />
the diversity of Washington state. tasting room is<br />
open 10-6 daily. 9774 Hwy. 14 Goldendale, WA.<br />
509.773.1976 maryhillwinery.com<br />
1.2<br />
Christine CatO<br />
memOriaL ski raCe<br />
The Christine Cato Memorial Ski Race<br />
kicks off the ski season for high school<br />
ski race enthusiasts. Timberline Lodge;<br />
timberlinelodge.com<br />
1.8<br />
FriDaY niGht raiL jam<br />
Open format jam session under<br />
the lights. Free entry with a<br />
season pass or night lift ticket, $10<br />
for all others. Timberline Lodge;<br />
timberlinelodge.com<br />
1.23<br />
snOWbOarD/ski<br />
sLOPestYLe COmPetitiOn<br />
Slopesyle competition. Test your skills<br />
at the Hood Series or just watch.<br />
Winners have the opportunity to<br />
compete nationally and represent<br />
the Mt. Hood area. Timberline Lodge;<br />
usasa.org<br />
1.30<br />
sLOPestYLe COmPetitiOn<br />
Slopestyle event. Compete in Hood<br />
series competition; make new friends<br />
and win prizes or just watch! Winners<br />
may compete nationally. Timberline<br />
Lodge; timberlinelodge.com<br />
1.31<br />
haLFPiPe COmPetitiOn<br />
Snowboarder's delight at Hood Series<br />
Halfpipe Competition. Prizes and<br />
winners may compete nationally. $20<br />
or entry packages available.<br />
Timberline Lodge; timberlinelodge.com<br />
2.5-2.7<br />
OreGOn 4-WaY<br />
ChamPiOnshiPs<br />
Open to ages 9-12. Friday: Crosscountry<br />
race and jumping.<br />
Sunday: Slalom and Giant Slalom<br />
races. Government Camp; skibowl.com<br />
2.7<br />
FUsiOn series: stYLe<br />
Fusion Series is coming back to<br />
Timberline for its third year. Come and<br />
participate or witness friendly winter<br />
competition. Open to all ability level<br />
skiers and riders. Timberline Lodge;<br />
mthoodfusionpass.com<br />
541.386.5710 celilorestaurant.com<br />
1859 OreGOn's maGazine WINTER <strong>2010</strong> 75<br />
>> Dining Guide for the Mt. Hood<br />
and The Gorge at 1859magazine.com
Portland metro Getaway Guide<br />
1.1-1.3<br />
the sCienCe OF Fear!<br />
Let your heart race as you face common<br />
fears such as falling and electric shock.<br />
Portland; omsi.edu<br />
1.1-1.3<br />
biGLittLethinGs<br />
A holiday family spectacle at Imago<br />
Theatre. Eleven short pieces that mix<br />
mask theatre, illusionistic costumes,<br />
original music, special-effect lighting<br />
and pure spectacle. Portland;<br />
biglittlethings.com<br />
1.3<br />
$2.00 DaYs<br />
Explore the museum for just $2 per<br />
person the first Sunday of every month.<br />
Portland; omsi.edu<br />
1.1-1.9<br />
23 sanDY GaLLerY/<br />
the assiGnment<br />
This exhibit features book arts including<br />
artist books, sculptural books, book<br />
objects and altered books. Portland;<br />
23sandy.com<br />
1.1-1.10<br />
COFFee: the WOrLD in YOUr CUP<br />
Sustainable perspectives on the beloved<br />
vehicle the world's most common drug—<br />
caffeinne. Portland; worldforestry.org<br />
1.1-1.31<br />
YOU name it - PaintinGs<br />
bY GarY hirsCh<br />
“You Name It” features 20 yet-tobe-named,<br />
acrylic and mixed media<br />
paintings. Portland; galleryparadiso.com<br />
1.5<br />
ChristOPher hitChens<br />
Outspoken and controversial journalist<br />
and literary critic Christopher Hitchens.<br />
His most recent book, God is Not Great:<br />
How Religion Poisons Everything<br />
(2008), was called “a provocative,<br />
challenging and passionate work.”<br />
Portland; literary-arts.org<br />
OregOn MuSeuM Of Science and induSTry<br />
OMSI is 219,000 square feet of brain-powered fun!<br />
Bring science to life with hundreds of interactive exhibits<br />
where you can experience an earthquake, take<br />
part in lab demonstrations, see a movie in the Omnimax<br />
Dome Theater, explore the universe in the planetarium<br />
and tour a real submarine.<br />
503.797.4000 omsi.edu<br />
The gOvernOr hOTel<br />
avalOn hOTel & Spa<br />
Set at the edge of the new South Waterfront District<br />
on Portland’s serene Willamette River, this luxury<br />
boutique hotel and spa basks in the glow of the city's<br />
lights just minutes from downtown. With its spa services,<br />
the Avalon wraps guests in the sophistication<br />
and warm hospitality of the Pacific Northwest.<br />
503.802.5800 avalonhotelandspa.com<br />
paley'S place<br />
Paley’s Place offers fresh, seasonal and creative flavors<br />
from the Pacific Northwest. Chef and owner, Vitaly<br />
Paley, creates classics with French and Northwest traditions,<br />
using ingredients from local farmers. Kimberly<br />
Paley oversees an extensive wine list with local and<br />
European favorites.<br />
503.243.2403 paleysplace.net<br />
The luxurious Governor Hotel in downtown Portland<br />
boasts 100 years of superb hospitality and service.<br />
The newly remodeled Governor is one of the true<br />
historic landmarks of the Pacific Northwest—combining<br />
ambiance and modern convenience. Located<br />
near Portland's theaters, restaurants and shopping.<br />
503.224.3400 governorhotel.com<br />
heaThMan hOTel<br />
Celebrated for its art of service, Portland’s sophisticated<br />
Heathman Hotel offers an inspiring blend of natural<br />
elegance and modern lifestyle. One of the “World’s<br />
Best Places to Stay,” says Condé Nast Traveler, the<br />
Heathman is Portland’s perfect destination for meetings,<br />
events, conferences, banquets and gala affairs.<br />
503.241.4100 heathmanhotel.com<br />
>> Dining Guide for Portland Metro<br />
at 1859magazine.com<br />
76 1859 OreGOn's maGazine WINTER <strong>2010</strong>
Portland metro Getaway Guide<br />
deSchuTeS Brewery<br />
Deschutes Brewerys Brew Pub in the Pearl District has become<br />
a destination for great handcrafted beer and gourmetstyle<br />
pub food in a relaxed urban atmosphere. Great care is<br />
taken in producing the highest quality food and beer from<br />
start to finish with all menu items made from scratch using<br />
local, sustainable and natural ingredients.<br />
503.296.4906 deschutesbrewery.com<br />
MiO SuShi<br />
Jake'S faMOuS crawfiSh<br />
Enjoy salmon roasted on a cedar plank, Oregon Dungeness<br />
crab, Chinook salmon stuffed with crab, great pastas<br />
and excellent steaks, not to mention cocktails made with<br />
fresh-squeezed juices. Considered one of the top 10 seafood<br />
restaurants in the country, Jake's Famous Crawfish<br />
has been a Portland landmark for more than a century.<br />
503.226.1419 mccormickandschmicks.com<br />
hOTel MOnacO<br />
Step through the doors of Hotel Monaco Portland<br />
and be welcomed into a world of unique luxury right<br />
in downtown Portland. Inspired by Anglo-Chinois<br />
style, renowned designer Cheryl Rowley recently<br />
transformed this 1912 architectural masterpiece into<br />
a space of whimsy, color and life.<br />
This popular Japanese eatery offers an extensive<br />
menu of traditional and creative fusion dishes that<br />
are sure to please kids, non-fish eaters and sushi<br />
veterans alike. Chefs incorporate the local flavors<br />
and products of the Pacific Northwest. A casual and<br />
friendly atmosphere for quality dining.<br />
503.286.5123 miosushi.com<br />
JapaneSe garden<br />
Nestled in the West Hills, the Portland Japanese Garden<br />
is a haven of tranquil beauty that has been proclaimed<br />
one the most authentic Japanese gardens outside of<br />
Japan. The grounds exhibit five distinct styles: natural<br />
garden, sand and stone garden, strolling pond garden,<br />
flat garden and tea garden —all peaceful spaces.<br />
503.223.1321 japanesegarden.com<br />
1.9-1.10<br />
LeGO bUiLDinG ChaLLenGe<br />
Put your design skills to the test at OMSI’s<br />
Jr. FIRST Lego League showcase and a Lego<br />
building challenge. Portland; omsi.edu<br />
1.12-1.17<br />
brOaDWaY aCrOss<br />
ameriCa: XanaDU<br />
This Broadway comedy will take you<br />
back to 1980s California. Don’t miss it.<br />
Portland; portlandoprera.org<br />
1.30-1.31<br />
ChOCOLateFest <strong>2010</strong><br />
Chocoholics unite! The 5th annual<br />
ChocolateFest will satiate your<br />
chocolate dreams.<br />
Portland; worldforestry.org<br />
2.16-2.21<br />
brOaDWaY aCrOss ameriCa:<br />
LeGaLLY bLOnDe<br />
The hilarious MGM film is now a smash<br />
hit musical, and now “Legally Blonde,<br />
The Musical” is coming to Oregon.<br />
Portland; portlandopera.org<br />
3.13-3.27<br />
POrtLanD ePiCUrean<br />
eXCUrsiOn<br />
Taste foods, sip drinks and meet<br />
artisans and vendors in their shops<br />
while exploring the Pearl District.<br />
Portland; portlandwalkingtours.com<br />
3.23-3.28<br />
brOaDWaY aCrOss ameriCa:<br />
Cats<br />
There’s no better way to introduce<br />
your family to the wonders of live<br />
theater than with the magic, the<br />
mystery, the memory of CATS. Portland;<br />
portlandopera.org<br />
3.29<br />
GOUrmet's rUth reiChL<br />
Reichl is a long time editor-in-chief<br />
of Gourmet magazine and the former<br />
food critic for the New York Times and<br />
Los Angeles Times.<br />
Portland; literary-arts.org<br />
503.222.0001 monaco-portland.com<br />
1859 OreGOn's maGazine WINTER <strong>2010</strong> 77<br />
>> Real Estate Guide for Portland Metro<br />
at 1859magazine.com
Southern Oregon Getaway Guide<br />
1.1-3.31<br />
FIRST FRIDAY ART WALK<br />
Ashland Gallery Association presents<br />
the First Friday Art Walk. Come see the<br />
latest exhibits and meet local artists<br />
through a self-guided art walk.<br />
Ashland; ashlandgalleries.com<br />
1.1-4.24<br />
snowshoe crater lake<br />
The fun way to experience the winter<br />
wonderland of Crater Lake while<br />
discovering how snow shapes the park’s<br />
landscape and how plants and animals<br />
survive the winter. The ranger-led walks<br />
at the beautiful Crater Lake National<br />
Park are offered at 1 p.m. every Saturday<br />
and Sunday. Crater Lake; nps.gov/crla<br />
1.1-3.28<br />
Crater lake film<br />
Mirror of Heaven is an 18-minute film<br />
that examines the human history of<br />
Crater Lake, from the Native Americans who<br />
witnessed the volcano’s collapse to the gold<br />
prospectors who stumbled across the lake in<br />
the 1850s. Crater Lake; nps.gov/crla<br />
1.1-3.31<br />
WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHY<br />
Wildlife photography on display at The<br />
Ledge. Klamath Falls; 541.882.5586<br />
1.1-3.31<br />
PAINTINGS AND PHOTOGRAPHY<br />
Paintings by Glenda Lehrman, Paula<br />
Walborn, Ruth Hollis, and Joyce Miles<br />
and photography by Jack Noller are now<br />
on display. Klamath Falls; 541.850.4500<br />
1.1-3.31<br />
TRIBAL BASKETRY EXHIBIT<br />
Displays include baskets, artifacts,<br />
and historical memorabilia of the<br />
Klamath and Modoc tribes. Chiloquin;<br />
541.782.2239<br />
1.1-3.31<br />
Tour historic jacksonville<br />
Situated in the heart of southern Oregon,<br />
Jacksonville is a town of fascinating<br />
history and immense charm. Daily tours.<br />
Jacksonville; ashland-tours.com<br />
1.1-3.31<br />
Snowshoe/ski tours<br />
Ski tour and snowshoe the southern<br />
Oregon mountains and valleys with<br />
a guide. Ashland; ashland-tours.com<br />
>> Lodging Guide for Southern Oregon<br />
at 1859magazine.com<br />
Tour the Kitchens of Harry & David, Medford<br />
What does 50 pounds of Moose Munch popcorn look<br />
like? How do they make so many different kinds of<br />
Truffles? Is their Baklava really made by hand? Answers<br />
to these and more questions are waiting for you on the<br />
Harry & David Tours. See how Harry & David make Americas<br />
favorite treats and taste a few of them yourself!<br />
877.322.8000 harryanddavid.com<br />
Weasku Inn, Grants Pass<br />
Set on the banks of the Wild and Scenic Rogue River,<br />
Weashku Inn had been a Hollywood darling, with<br />
visits from Clark Gable, Carole Lombard and Walt<br />
Disney. A decade ago, the inn's five rooms and 11<br />
riverfront cabins underwent a renovation that puts<br />
luxury into the wilderness.<br />
541.471.8000 weaskuinn.com<br />
78 1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong><br />
Ashland Springs Hotel<br />
An elegantly restored historic landmark in the heart<br />
of downtown Ashland, next to Oregon Shakespeare<br />
Festival theatres offers 70 tastefully appointed guest<br />
rooms, an English garden, a banquet/conference space<br />
and delicious food. Its restaurant, Larks, celebrates Oregon's<br />
farms, orchards, vineyards & chocolatiers.<br />
541.488.1700 ashlandspringshotel.com<br />
Lela’s Café, Ashland<br />
Romantic and charming with a casual and graceful French Bistro<br />
ambiance, Lela’s cuisine is simple but elegant combining<br />
classic French preparation techniques with fresh ingredients<br />
from the Pacific Northwest. The menu features locally grown<br />
and seasonal products from the abundant farms, dairies and<br />
vineyards of the Rogue Valley.<br />
541.482.1702 lelascafe.com<br />
Jacksonville Inn<br />
Located in a National Historic Landmark town, the Jacksonville<br />
Inn offers eight elegantly decorated hotel rooms,<br />
modernized for comfort with whirlpool tubs, steam showers,<br />
air-conditioning, and four luxurious honeymoon cottages<br />
that cater to romance and privacy. The gourmet dinner<br />
house has a selection of more than 2,000 wines.<br />
800.321.9344 jacksonvilleinn.com
Southern Oregon Getaway Guide<br />
Rogue Creamery Cheese Shop, Central Point<br />
Since 1935 the Rogue Creamery has preserved the old<br />
world tradition of Artisan handmade cheese. Their Rogue<br />
River Blue won "Best Blue Cheese in the World" at the 2003<br />
World Cheese Awards in London. Daily Cheese Tasting<br />
at the historic cheese shop, with an extensive selection<br />
of Rogue Valley wine, Italian wine, and gourmet foods.<br />
866.665.1155 roguecreamery.com<br />
Chateaulin Restaurant Français,<br />
Ashland<br />
Walk into Chateaulin and you'll be transported to<br />
Lyon, France. Whether you go for the award-winning<br />
wine list, the three-course prix fixe dinner, the classic<br />
martinis from the bar, or the French cuisine and<br />
atmosphere, you'll be happy you did.<br />
541.482.2264 chateaulin.com<br />
The Running Y Ranch, Klamath Falls<br />
Nestled in the heart of the breathtaking beauty of<br />
Southern Oregons Cascade mountains, this recreational<br />
community features Oregons only award-winning<br />
Arnold Palmer golf course. Amenities also include lodge<br />
hotel, vacation rentals, day spa, town center with shops<br />
and the four season recreation of Southern Oregon.<br />
Lodging and adventure packages available.<br />
866.975.1857 visitrunningy.com<br />
4 Daughters Irish Pub, Medford<br />
This pub is a family owned and operated restaurant<br />
bringing an authentic Irish experience to downtown<br />
Medford. Offering a light n' lively atmosphere, Irish<br />
drinks and fare, plus live music five nights a week,<br />
4 Daughters is Southern Oregon's best spot for the<br />
tastes and sounds of the Old Eire.<br />
541.779.4455 4daughtersirishpub.com<br />
Standing Stone Brewing Company, Ashland<br />
Standing Stone Brewing Co. is located in downtown Ashland.<br />
The restaurant has a centrally located "display" kitchen<br />
which features delectable fare. Watch as the chefs bake their<br />
signature pizzas in the wood fired oven. A children's menu<br />
and friendly service make Standing Stone an ideal choice<br />
for the whole family.<br />
1.22-2.28<br />
Rogue valley symphony<br />
Violinist Catherine Manoukian plays,<br />
Darko Butorac conducts Brahms,<br />
Bach and Tchaikovsky 1.22-1.24).<br />
Cellist Rhonda Rider plays, Peter<br />
Rubardt conducts Hayden, Dvorak and<br />
Shostakovich (2. 26-2.28).<br />
1.23<br />
BAVARIAN NIGHT<br />
All Twilight lift ticket proceeds go to<br />
the Mt. Ashland Ski Patrol. Live music,<br />
fireworks, ski patrol auction. Ashland;<br />
mtashland.com<br />
2.1-3.31<br />
FIRST FRIDAY ART NIGHT<br />
On on the first Friday night of the<br />
month, Grants Pass comes alive with<br />
music and art. 6-9 p.m.<br />
Grants Pass; 541.787.7357<br />
2.6<br />
Bird walk the rogue valley<br />
The Klamath Bird Observatory and<br />
the Northwest Nature Shop sponsor<br />
free monthly bird walks around the<br />
Rogue Valley area the first Saturday<br />
of the month. The walks are led by<br />
an experienced birder from Klamath<br />
Bird Observatory. Ashland; birds@<br />
northwestnatureshop.com<br />
2.7<br />
MT. ASHLAND SLOPE STYLE<br />
Come enjoy family-friendly fun and<br />
participate in slope style competition.<br />
Held in the Center Stage Terrain Park,<br />
this fun event is open to all ages.<br />
Ashland; mtashland.com<br />
3.19<br />
medford art walk<br />
There's nothing like good company,<br />
good food and beverage, and music<br />
to warm up a March evening. Add<br />
to this, fine art and poetry readings,<br />
gallery openings, restaurant<br />
challenges, and your imagination,<br />
and you have this month's 3rd<br />
Friday Art Walk in downtown<br />
Medford;thirdfridayartwalk.org<br />
541.482.2448 standingstonebrewing.com<br />
1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong> 79<br />
>> Recreation Guide for Southern Oregon<br />
at 1859magazine.com
Willamette Valley Getaway Guide<br />
12.31-1.3<br />
THE MARRIAGE OF FIGARO<br />
From the world famous overture to the<br />
heart-stopping tenderness of the finale,<br />
this opera is Mozart at his absolute best.<br />
The Saturday show is “Figaro for the<br />
Family.” Eugene; eugeneopera.com<br />
1.1-1.8<br />
ARTIST: SUSAN WEATHERS<br />
Beautiful and colorful transparent<br />
watercolors depicting still life’s,<br />
scenes, land and seascapes from<br />
an award-winning artist and art<br />
instructor. Florence; florenceartists.com<br />
1.1-2.28<br />
DOWN TO EARTH<br />
Stunning photographs of our ever-changing<br />
planet, taken by University of Oregon<br />
Department of Geological Sciences graduate<br />
students and faculty members. Eugene;<br />
natural-history.uoregon.edu<br />
1.1-3.27<br />
LIVE GLASSBLOWING<br />
Experience the exciting world of hot glass<br />
in motion, in addition to a multitude<br />
of contemporary art works. Eugene;<br />
visitstudiowest.com<br />
1.1-1.10<br />
VERY VICTORIAN<br />
HOLIDAYS EXHIBIT<br />
Eugene’s Victorian House Museum<br />
is festively decorated with traditional,<br />
creative and handmade items, and a tree<br />
in every room. Eugene; smjhouse.org<br />
1.18<br />
martin luther king jr.<br />
A celebration of Martin Luther King Jr.<br />
that includes keynote speaker, Damali<br />
Ayo, known for her art, wit and bestselling<br />
book How to Rent a Negro; and<br />
the Civil Rights Community Choir . At<br />
Silvia Hall, Eugene; hultcenter.org<br />
1.29-1.31<br />
life of the mind<br />
Augustine’s Confessions: A brilliant<br />
young Roman philosopher recounts his<br />
dissolute early life, his search for truth<br />
and gradual conversion to Christianity,<br />
meditating on themes like memory, time,<br />
and the soul. The first autobiography, a<br />
founding document of the Middle Ages,<br />
still fascinating and profound, it’s on<br />
every list of Great Books.<br />
Ponzi Wine Bar<br />
Located in downtown Dundee, the Ponzi Wine Bar<br />
offers an opportunity to taste wines from more than<br />
140 top Oregon vintners. Flights are available, as well<br />
as wine by the glass, bottle or case. The wine bar also<br />
offers microbrews on draught, Italian coffee, appetizers,<br />
and information on wine and touring.<br />
503.554.1500 ponziwinebar.com<br />
Campbell House, Eugene<br />
Built in 1892, the historic Campbell House is as<br />
elegant as it is classic. Eat at the formal dining room<br />
or walk to nearby restaurants and events at the<br />
Hult Center.<br />
541.343.2258 campbellhouse.com<br />
Lange Estate Winery and Vineyards, Dundee<br />
This gorgeous winery delivers beautifully balanced<br />
wines from fruit grown on the Lange Winery Estate,<br />
located in the heart of the prestigious Dundee Hillls.<br />
With panoramic views of the Cascade Mountain<br />
Range and two valleys, a visit to Lange Estate Winery<br />
is an experience not to be missed.<br />
503.538.6476 langewinery.com<br />
Anne Amie Vineyards, carlton<br />
Pinot reigns supreme at Anne Amie Vineyards with Pinot<br />
noir, Pinot gris and Pinot blanc forming the heart of our<br />
production. A vineyard and winery tour is offered at 11 a.m.<br />
daily with reservation (Wednesday through Sunday). The<br />
tour is followed by a private tasting of select wines which<br />
include reserve tasting and an Oregon Pinot noir glass.<br />
503.864.2991 anneamie.com<br />
Beppe & Gianni's Trattoria, Eugene<br />
Voted Eugene’s best Italian restaurant for the past<br />
eight years, family-owned Beppe & Gianni’s dishes<br />
up delicious pasta made fresh every day. Offering an<br />
extended Italian wine list and a friendly atmosphere,<br />
this eatery is committed to using only the best local<br />
ingredients in their alimentary creations.<br />
541.683.6661 beppeandgiannis.net<br />
>> Dining Guide for Willamette Valley<br />
at 1859magazine.com<br />
80 1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong>
Willamette Valley getaway guide<br />
PUDDIN' RIVER CHOCOLATES & WINEBAR, CANBY<br />
willamette Valley's favorite for european-style chocolates,<br />
specialty desserts and gifts; quaint bistro dining for lunch<br />
and dinner featuring locally-grown produce, wines, and<br />
beer; catering for parties and special events. new offerings<br />
include wine tastings, cooking classes, theme music<br />
nights, happy hour appetizers and guest musicians.<br />
503.263.2626 www.puddinriver.com<br />
HARRY RITCHIE'S JEWELERS<br />
Harry ritchies is where Oregon gets engaged, with the exclusive<br />
Love Story diamond brand, and an extensive<br />
selection of beautiful wedding sets to fit any style and<br />
budget! Create your own Chamilia bracelet or necklace<br />
to celebrate your style with sterling silver, 14k gold, Murano<br />
glass, Swarovski crystals and more.<br />
541.385.5299 harryritchies.com<br />
MARCHÉ, EUGENE<br />
Fresh seasonal foods from the local market, or<br />
marché, served in wonderful French cuisine. this restaurant,<br />
in downtown eugene, has all the trimmings<br />
and ambience of a classic French bistro.<br />
541.342.3612 marcherestaurant.com<br />
KING ESTATE WINERY, EUGENE<br />
King estate, founded in 1991 by the King family, is<br />
a leading Oregon producer of Pinot gris and Pinot<br />
noir. the 1,033-acre estate is certified organic. King<br />
estate's restaurant and wine Bar features wine tasting,<br />
winery tours and fine dining, with a menu of<br />
estate-grown and locally grown organic ingredients.<br />
541.942.9874 kingestate.com<br />
WILD PEAR RESTAURANT, SALEM<br />
Specializing in northwest Cuisine with Asian & european<br />
influences. Dishes are made from scratch with<br />
local ingredients by creative chefs. Located in the<br />
heart of downtown Salem, in a beautifully restored<br />
circa 1880 building, wild Pear is the favorite lunch<br />
spot among hip Salemites and beyond.<br />
503.378.7515 wildpearcatering.com<br />
1.29-1.31<br />
oregon TrUFFLe FesTiVaL<br />
Join in a celebration of Oregon truffles,<br />
from their hidden source in the forest<br />
to their glory on the table. eugene;<br />
oregontrufflefestival.com<br />
2.5<br />
WWii-era reVUe<br />
with a big band orchestra, singers and<br />
dancers, in the Mood presents a retro<br />
1940s musical with the songs that<br />
moved a nation's spirit and helped<br />
win a war. Celebrating its 16th season<br />
of touring nationwide, in the Mood<br />
captures the swing era through the<br />
music of the Andrews Sisters, Glenn<br />
Miller, Frank Sinatra, Benny Goodman,<br />
Artie Shaw and other big band greats<br />
with authentic costumes, arrangements<br />
and swing dance routines. eugene;<br />
hultcenter.org<br />
2.6<br />
inT'L CaPeLLa CHamPionsHiP<br />
elite singing groups from the Pacific<br />
northwest descend on Silvial Hall to<br />
compete for the the coveted title of the<br />
iCCA Quarterfinal Champion. eugene;<br />
hultcenter.org<br />
2.16<br />
amazonia: PHoToJoUrnaL<br />
Over a series of years, beginning in<br />
2003, noted national Geographic<br />
photographer Sam Abell traveled along<br />
the Amazon taking photographs of its<br />
wild beauty. this traveling exhibition<br />
come to the Jordan Schnitzer Museum<br />
of Art and documents one of the<br />
earth’s remaining natural ecosystems –<br />
the headwaters of the Amazon river in<br />
Peru. eugene; uoregon.edu<br />
2.19<br />
THe HarLem gLoBeTroTTers<br />
now in their 84th year, the Harlem<br />
Globetrotters, play McArthur Court at<br />
the University of Oregon. uoregon.edu<br />
2.27<br />
THe CLaY BaLL<br />
Celebrate the arts during this spirited<br />
and fun-filled evening which includes<br />
a wine reception, elegant three-course<br />
dinner and art auctions featuring top<br />
regional artists. Salem; 503.5821.2228<br />
1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong> 81<br />
>> Travel Guide for Willamette Valley<br />
at 1859magazine.com
Oregon Living<br />
Oregon Quotient<br />
What’s<br />
Your OQ ?<br />
This man is an Oregonian who is tangentially<br />
related to one of the stories in this issue of 1859<br />
Oregon's Magazine. His real passion was trees but<br />
he dabbled in trains and water. Thrice married<br />
and twice divorced, this Norwegian personified<br />
bootstrapper after emigrating to Oregon. His name<br />
is ubiquitous around Oregon for various education<br />
and development projects.<br />
Photo courtesy OSF<br />
Who is this Norwegian transplant<br />
and what role did he play in one of the stories in this issue?<br />
answer for a chance to win<br />
Answer this question at 1859magazine.com and win<br />
a chance for a luxury weekend at The Oxford Hotel<br />
in downtown Bend.<br />
82 1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong>
Map of Oregon<br />
1859's Oregon<br />
The points of interest below are culled from<br />
stories and events in this edition of 1859 .<br />
2<br />
4<br />
10<br />
8<br />
1<br />
5<br />
12<br />
11<br />
6<br />
9<br />
3<br />
7<br />
Illustration by Steller Design, stellerdesign.com<br />
1 steelhead Train [page 53]<br />
Grab some buddies and fish this<br />
winter's steelhead run in Eastern<br />
Oregon by hopping on the Steelhead<br />
Train in Minam, Oregon.<br />
2 Perfect storms [page 54]<br />
Head out to Seaside and other<br />
coastal spots to watch storms<br />
blow in off the Pacific. Feel free<br />
to move about the coast to find<br />
that perfect storm.<br />
3<br />
good Hike:<br />
Badlands [page 50]<br />
An off-beat temperate winter<br />
retreat is a long hike in the<br />
natural desert of the Badlands.<br />
Recently deemed wilderness,<br />
the juniper- and bird-laden area<br />
is a nice respite outside of Bend.<br />
4 Trailrunning nirvana [page 49]<br />
Portland's urban wilderness, Forest<br />
Park, has 5,100 acres in which to<br />
jumpstart your trailrunning resolutions.<br />
Trails peek out on the Pittock<br />
Mansion and eventually to the<br />
Oregon Zoo.<br />
5 <strong>Winter</strong> golf [page 54]<br />
Play legendary Bandon Dunes golf<br />
course for off-season rates of $75<br />
and $90 in January and February,<br />
respectively. No really, Honey, I'm<br />
just trying to save us a little money.<br />
mt. Bailey<br />
6<br />
Cat-skiing [page 50]<br />
World class backcountry skiing in<br />
the southern Cascades with highly<br />
trained mountain guides. Mt. Bailey<br />
serves fresh tracks almost daily.<br />
7<br />
Hwy 20<br />
reconsidered [page 20]<br />
Often framed as the most boring<br />
stretch of road in Oregon, Highway<br />
20 is one the most historically and<br />
geographically bountiful. Also go to<br />
1859magazine.com for a mile-by-mile<br />
interactive road map of this gem.<br />
8 elkhorn mountains' Deity<br />
One of OPB's Steve Amen's favorite<br />
winter jaunts, the Elkhorn Mountains<br />
are home to an elusive Native American<br />
deity who safekeeps the valley.<br />
Read more at 1859magazine.com.<br />
9 Yurt skiing [page 15]<br />
Newly established yurts in the Three<br />
Sisters Wildness open up backcountry<br />
adventures to the willing.<br />
10 off Broadway [page 77]<br />
In its Broadway Across America<br />
series, The Portland Opera trots out<br />
Xanadu, Legally Blonde and CATS<br />
in January, February and March,<br />
respectively. Details in Calendar.<br />
11 Truffle Ticket [page 80]<br />
The Oregon Truffle Festival in January<br />
is a fantastic feast of fungi. The<br />
Oregon truffle is a rare delicacy that<br />
tastes wonderful in these Franco-<br />
Oregonian dishes.<br />
12 <strong>Winter</strong> Folk [page 72]<br />
Misty River and The Brothers Four<br />
are headlining acts for Florence's<br />
<strong>Winter</strong> Folk Festival January 23-24.<br />
See Calendar for more information.<br />
1859 oregon's magazine winter <strong>2010</strong> 83