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northwest destination Ketchum & Sun Valley Hitting up the best slopes in Idaho written by Kevin Max The Limelight Hotel opened in January 2016. THE PROBLEM WITH Ketchum and Sun Valley is there are too many things to get after if you’re on the outdoorsy-to-athletic arc. Let’s deal with the obvious first—Sun Valley Ski Resort is the stuff of dreams, reveries that go back to the roots of alpine skiing in this country and figures as broad as history itself. As mining was fading in the 1930s and the valley was losing population, Averell Harriman, of the Union Pacific Railroad and Secretary of Commerce under President Truman, had an interest in the success of the Wood River Valley. Harriman recruited Austrian nobility in the form of Count Felix Schaffgotsch to site a world-class ski resort in Ketchum. Schaffgotsch declared the surrounding slopes perfectly suitable for skiing, developed them, built the Sun Valley Lodge and invited glamorous Hollywood stars out for winter fun. The dirty little secret is that Count Schaffgotsch counted himself a Hitler supporter. He soon decamped to fight on the wrong side of the war and was killed in the Battle of Stalingrad in 1942, as Soviets crushed the Nazi attack. Permit me this one insensitivity—we got a nice ski resort out this and one that is Hollywood’s winter home. Today, the resort is an iconic destination with 3,400 vertical feet, ten lifts and more than 100 trails. The ski lodges are built for ages past and future—big wood beams, brass fixtures, massive chandeliers, stone fireplaces in a collision of comfort and opulence, Lodge and Jazz eras. Let’s not forget Wood River Valley’s best skiing. Up the Sawtooth Scenic Byway heading north from town is the Nordic mecca at Galena Lodge. North Valley and Galena trails (adult one-day pass $17; kids 17 and under are free) and Wood River trails are free and open to the public. The mountains that tilt off the highway are known as the Boulder Mountains, despite their smooth and boulderless appearance. One runs out of names, I suppose. A fairly serious competition of cross-country skiing happens in this valley each February. In flattering spandex, competitors in the Boulder Mountain Tour glide 34 kilometers down the Harriman Trail from Galena Lodge. It’s not for everyone, but a spectacle for onlookers nonetheless. Try the full-moon dinners at Galena Lodge December through March. For $45, you get a four-course dinner served at communal tables in a remote lodge in the Sawtooth National Recreation Area. For a surprising bit of culture in this mountain town, check out the Sun Valley Opera. This is an intimate way to see top musical acts for a high-browed thrill. The opera takes place at the Community School Theatre and, now, at the new Limelight Hotel downtown. Strolling downtown Ketchum is a simple pleasure of its own. On Main Street, too many places demand the attention of a drink or two—Pioneer Saloon, Sawtooth Club, Whiskey Jacques, Despo’s for Mexican and margaritas. My favorites include the Ketchum Grill, a classic and good for noisy conversation; Il Naso for lively Italian cuisine in an intimate den; and the newcomer Town Square for upscale Middle Eastern dishes and well-traveled wines. Thrifting at the Gold Mine is always 112 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2018
Lunch Brunch Dinner Sightseeing Charters Let’s Celebrate! local family owned since 1994 Portland Spirit Cruises & Events 503-224-3900 / 800-224-3901 PortlandSpirit.com
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TRIP PLANNER: OREGON’S LIGHTHOUSE
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1859 Jan | Feb 2018

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