OnTrak Winter 2018

WINTER
2018
WEEKENDER
SQUAMISH & SALEM
FEATURE
SPACE NEEDLE HISTORY
HAPPY COWS
ROGUE CREAMERY’S INNOVATIONS
TAKE US
WITH YOU
Compliments of
Amtrak Cascades ®
BRITISH
COLUMBIA SKI
ADVENTURES
BEST REMOTE
LODGES OF
THE PACIFIC
NORTHWEST
PICTURED
HERE:
Into the wild
(see gallery,
pg. 55)
R
adventure + lifestyle along the Amtrak Cascades route

Features
WINTER 2018
Grant Gunderson
55
Extreme Skiing B.C.
Photographer Grant
Gunderson takes us into
the backcountry of British
Columbia’s snowiest spots
for some next-level
shredding.
42
Symbol of the Future
Today it’s synonymous with Seattle’s
originality, but the Space Needle
hasn’t always soared over the city.
48
Remote Lodges
of the PNW
Whether in Oregon, Washington
or British Columbia, the best
places to get off the grid are just
a train trip away.
2 | WINTER 2018
ontrakmag.com

360.671.3990
bellingham.org

WINTER 2018
Departments
INTRO
6 Letter
8 Contributors
12 Digital
BUSINESS
14 Green Biz
Rogue Creamery’s sustainable,
humane and robotic approach
to its cows.
16
Q&A
An Oregon State University
professor discovered a new
blue, and the world—and
Crayola—took notice.
CULTURE
18 Art
There’s nothing serious about
Anne Hansen’s whimsical
oystercatcher paintings.
20 Music
Skating Polly echoes
Washington’s early ’90s alt-rock
sound in its own modern way.
22 Chef Spotlight
Peter Cho stumbled into the
restaurant industry, but there’s
nothing accidental about Han Oak,
his acclaimed Portland eatery.
24 Event Calendar
Plan your travel around our calendar
of music, art, theater, film,
sports and festivals.
Notes from the Adventure
pg. 30
OUTDOORS
28 Athlete
J.R. Celski plans to take the ice again as a
speedskater at the 2018 Olympics. But he’s
busy off the ice, too.
30 Notes from the Adventure
Group tours don’t have to be a drag,
particularly when they involve wine and
Washington scenery.
34
38
74
Squamish
Take to the outdoors in this B.C. wonderland.
The adventure options are endless.
Salem
Don’t look now, but Oregon’s capital is
becoming downright hip.
Exposure
Submit a photo for a chance to win
the photo contest.
EXPLORE GUIDE
Where to eat, drink, stay, play and shop
64
Oregon
67 Washington
70 Vancouver
75 Train Games
76 Route Maps
79 Special Deals on
Amtrak Cascades
80 Parting Shot
ON THE COVER: Backcountry skiing in B.C. (see pg. 55). PHOTO BY GRANT GUNDERSON
4 | WINTER 2018
ontrakmag.com

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A Note from Us
Train Travel in the Pacific Northwest
Now offering twelve trains daily between Portland and Seattle
TRAVEL BETWEEN SEATTLE and Portland
just got easier, thanks to the December addition
of two more Amtrak Cascades daily roundtrips.
Business and leisure travelers can travel between
the two cities on twelve trains each day, including
early morning and later evening trains in
both directions.
The new schedule sees trains, pulled by Amtrak
Cascades’ new Charger locomotives, leaving both
Portland and Seattle every two to three hours.
Station stops between the two cities include Tukwila,
Tacoma, Olympia/Lacey, Centralia, Kelso/
Longview, and Vancouver, Washington.
Amtrak Cascades also will continue to run
daily trips to Vancouver, British Columbia, and
Eugene, Oregon—serving a total of eighteen cities
on the corridor. December’s schedule changes
included later departures for some trains between
Portland and Eugene to better connect with trains
coming from Seattle, and to better meet passenger
needs in Oregon.
We were deeply saddened by the tragic derailment
that occurred with the launch of our additional
service in December. Our hearts and prayers
go out to the victims and their families. Our thanks
go to all the agencies and emergency responders
who rendered assistance. We also are grateful for
the outpouring of support from our valued passengers
and rail fans who expressed their continued
love for train travel.
As a result of the incident, we are operating the
service through a modified equipment plan, with
some of our segments using train cars that are not
part of the normal Amtrak Cascades fleet. However,
we will continue to operate the full schedule to
serve our Pacific Northwest travelers.
Welcome aboard, thank you for riding
Amtrak Cascades.
Ron Pate
Corridor Director
Amtrak Cascades
6 | WINTER 2018
ontrakmag.com

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Contact Statehood Media at advertising@statehoodmedia.com or 541.728.2764

Contributors
WINTER 2018
Grant Gunderson
Photographer—Gallery
(p. 55)
Corinne Whiting
Writer—Athlete
(p. 28)
Lee Lewis Husk
Writer—Green Biz
(p. 14)
Mitch Wiewel
Writer—Back to the Future
(p. 42)
As a ski photographer, I
have traveled all over the
world in search of the best
skiing, but I keep coming
back to British Columbia.
No place else matches the
quality and diversity of the
B.C. ski experience, whether
you are resort skiing, cat
skiing, heliskiing or touring
one of the province’s remote
backcountry huts.
There are two types of
people I love profiling in
my work—those who follow
their passion every day, and
those who do their part to
leave this world better than
they found it. J.R. Celski
happens to fall into both
categories, and I couldn’t
be happier to shine the
spotlight on this talented
skater who also happens to
have a really huge heart.
When the president of Rogue
Creamery, David Gremmels,
invited me to tour the
company’s dairy, or “eco cow
spa” as he called it, I had to
go. My husband, Dave, and
I showed up on a day when
the outside temperatures
pushed 100. We entered the
barn and found it cool, quiet,
nice-smelling and where the
girls peacefully line up for
“Matilda” and “Charlie”—the
robots that relieve them of
the milk that becomes cheese
prized around the globe.
As a kid growing up in Iowa,
I daydreamed of Seattle.
The image of the Space
Needle was synonymous
with good music and
everything cool and
cultural. It was a lot of fun
imagining what it was like
for locals who as children
watched its construction.
It was important to me to
accurately tell the story to
portray the ambition and
integrity of the Needle’s
original investors.
8 | WINTER 2018
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adventure + lifestyle along the Amtrak Cascades ® route
Editor - Kevin Max
Managing Editor - Sheila G. Miller
Creative Director - Brooke Miracle
Design - Allison Bye
Marketing + Digital Manager - Kelly Rogers
Webmaster - Isaac Peterson
Office Manager - Cindy Miskowiec
Director of Sales - Jenny Kamprath
Advertising Account Executives -
Cindy Guthrie, Jenn Redd, Jill Weisensee
Contributing Writers - Alex V. Cipolle, Michelle Hopkins,
Lee Lewis Husk, Catie Joyce-Bulay, Lauren Kramer,
Lindsay McWilliams, Dana E. Neuts, Ben Salmon, Chad Walsh,
Corinne Whiting, Mitch Wiewel
Contributing Photographers - Grant Gunderson,
Thomas Di Nardo
statehoodmedia.com
facebook.com/AmtrakCascades
@Amtrak_Cascades
facebook.com/OnTrakMag
@OnTrakMag
PUBLISHED BY
Statehood Media, LLC
70 SW Century Drive, Suite 100-218
Bend, Oregon 97702
541•728•2764
Printed in Canada
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or
by any means, electronically or mechanically, including photocopy, recording or any information
storage and retrieval system, without the express written permission of Statehood Media.
Articles and photographs appearing in OnTrak may not be reproduced in whole or in part without
the express written consent of the publisher. OnTrak and Statehood Media are not responsible
for the return of unsolicited materials. The views and opinions expressed in these articles
are not necessarily those of Statehood Media, OnTrak, or its employees, staff or management.
10 | WINTER 2018
ontrakmag.com

Seattle to Portland…
Just Got
Easier
The Smart Way to Travel
Avoid gridlock and delays between Seattle and Portland on Amtrak
Cascades. Relax, sip Northwest wine, enjoy the scenery or use our free
wi-fi while you cruise down the tracks. Starting December 18th we’re
offering 12 trips daily between Seattle and Portland. Go down in the
morning, be home that evening. Perfectly smart and easy!
www.AmtrakCascades.com
*Fares subject to change without notice. Restrictions apply.

Digital Experience
WINTER 2018
GALLERY
Go Inside Rogue Creamery
See more photos
from the high-tech
dairy in our online
gallery.
ontrakmag.com/
roguecreamery
MOBILE
Follow us on facebook:
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Follow us on twitter:
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EXPOSURE PHOTO CONTEST
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12 | WINTER 2018
ontrakmag.com

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On exhibit at the Oregon Historical Society
January 15 – June 24, 2018
ohs.org

Business
14. Green Biz | 16. Q&A
Rogue Creamery
Goes High Tech
Sustainable, humane
and, oh yeah, robotic
WRITTEN BY LEE LEWIS HUSK
MATILDA AND CHARLIE get right down to business
when a cow presents herself for milking. With
precise movements and unerring aim, they latch
onto the teats and gently extract the essential ingredient
for making the famed artisanal cheeses of
Rogue Creamery. And they do it with udder indifference—because
they’re robots, a technology
just making its way into Oregon dairy farms.
14 | WINTER 2018
ontrakmag.com

Rogue Creamery’s cows have 58 acres to roam.
Rogue Creamery’s technology
and sustainable agricultural practices,
along with a contented herd
of milk producers, innovative
cheesemakers and visionary leadership,
have resulted in a product
sought after by cheese lovers
around the world.
The dairy near Grants Pass is
among the early adopters of robotics,
according to Pete Kent,
executive director of the Oregon
Dairy and Nutrition Council. Despite
the heavy startup expense
(each robot costs about $300,000),
the robots’ high-tech instruments
give farmers instant data on such
factors as the cow’s health, quality
of milk and frequency of milking.
The automation also frees
up farmworkers to spend less
time milking and more time caring
for the herd and advancing
sustainable practices. Kent said
dairy farms that employ robotic
milkers have seen improvements
in cow comfort and the quality of
milk, as well as a decrease in the
incidence of disease.
“David Gremmels is not afraid
to explore technology in his
quest to become a sustainable
operation from pasture to cow
care to the processing of milk,”
Kent added, referring to the president
of Rogue Creamery. Rogue
Creamery is one of only three
Oregon dairies that owns and
controls its own milk supply for
processing into cheese or other
milk products. The other two
are Lochmead Farms in Junction
City and TMK Farm in Canby. It’s
an advantage more easily accomplished
in small operations.
On a recent visit, Craig Nelson
picked up a handful of undigested
plant material from a large heap,
explaining it had been separated
from cow manure, heated twice
and then reclaimed for cow bedding.
Despite the yuck factor, this
is part of the dairy’s sustainable
practices to produce high-quality,
organic milk and cheese.
The 120 cows in the lactating
herd have free rein of 58 acres
of USDA-certified organic pasture,
where humans pull weeds by
hand. When the weather turns hot
or cold, the cows can enter what
the dairy calls “the cow cathedral.”
In simple terms, it’s a barn. The
cows decide when they want to
eat, drink, rest or be milked without
forced enclosures or schedules.
The dairy’s designers incorporated
advanced engineering
systems during barn construction
to keep the place cool and reduce
odors (despite the gas emissions
and other biologic processes that
occur under its roof). Inside, it’s
eerily quiet—no mooing.
The dairy council’s Kent points
out that all Oregon dairies are
quiet, a reflection of the overall
quality of care animals receive
in the state. “A stressed animal is
not going to produce either the
volume or quality of milk,” he
said, adding that milk from Oregon
dairies is among the best in
the country.
“A happy cow is a quiet cow,”
Nelson quipped.
When
You Go
Visitors are welcome at the dairy, 7 miles west of Grants
Pass, where they can see Charlie and Matilda extracting
the milk that eventually ends up in tasty grilled cheese
sandwiches served on site at the farm stand.
For information on hours and guided tours, go to
roguecreamery.com.
ontrakmag.com WINTER 2018 | 15

A SIT DOWN Q A
Tangled Up in Blue
The story behind Oregon’s new blue
INTERVIEW BY ALEX V. CIPOLLE
Dr. Mas Subramanian
with his YInMn Blue.
Karl Maasdam
OREGON STATE UNIVERSITY chemist Dr. Mas Subramanian never planned to make a discovery that would alter the
color landscape. But, in 2009, that’s exactly what happened, when an OSU team of scientists led by Subramanian accidentally
created YInMn Blue (known as MasBlue at OSU), one the most brilliant and fade-resistant blues the world has ever seen.
It was a eureka moment for the arts and sciences, as blue pigment is typically fade-prone, as well as costly and expensive
to create. Subramanian patented YInMn and, in autumn 2017, Crayola added the YInMn-inspired “Bluetiful” crayon to its
collection. Speaking to OnTrak, Subramanian reflects on his serendipitous discovery and how it changed his life.
In layman’s terms, can you explain how you created
YInMn Blue?
In 2009, I received a grant for finding new material
for computers. The discovery had nothing to do with
discovering a new pigment—we were looking for new
electronics material that would revolutionize the computer
industry. We mixed three oxides [of Yttrium, Indium and
Manganese] and heated them to high temperature. To
our shock, all of our materials came out very blue. I was
a scientist at DuPont for thirty-three years, so I was aware
that blue was the most difficult color to make. The last
pigment was discovered in 1802, a cobalt blue, in France.
Besides its vibrant beauty, what else makes YInMn
Blue special?
It’s very stable—it doesn’t fade. Also, the application
of the pigment: Whereas cobalt will not reflect heat,
the interesting thing about YInMn Blue is it can reflect
heat—when applied, it can keep a building or a car cooler
in the summertime.
How has the discovery affected your life?
I have made several discoveries in my life. This is one of
the best because the discovery we made is pretty close to
the societal interest, rather than doing something that
attracts the attention of only the pure scientist. It’s definitely
changed my life. Now, I give talks in museums. I give talks
in art galleries. It’s an amazing experience. I was recently
on a panel at the Getty Museum to discuss “What is the
meaning of blue?”—I was the only scientist. And I’m
doing two TEDx talks—January 6 at the Salem Oregon
Convention Center and and February 10 at University of
North Carolina at Chapel Hill.
What about the Crayola “Bluetiful” connection?
Crayola wanted to introduce a new color because they
were dropping the yellow “Dandelion” color. They chose
YInMn blue knowing the discovery had happened. They
can’t put this pigment in Crayola crayons yet because it
must be approved by the FDA. So they are using our hue to
create the color for the crayon, and they are waiting for the
approval now. In the future, yes, they can
reproduce it exactly.
What is your favorite color?
Blue. [Laughs.] Even before I
discovered YInMn Blue! It’s
just a color that pleases my
eyes. It’s a cool color.
16 | WINTER 2018
ontrakmag.com

The Leon Vaughn Band at the Basin Street nightclub in 1948 (detail). MOHAI, Al Smith collection.
On view through June 17
MOHAI.org
#SpotOnMOHAI
Seattle on the Spot: The Photographs of Al Smith is supported in part by
grants from the National Endowment for the Arts, The Boeing Company,
4Culture, Mike Repass, and the Washington State Arts Commission.
Media support provided by: The Seattle Times, KUOW 94.9, KCTS 9, Crosscut
chinese new year
year of the dog
at lan su chinese garden
Steps from Union Station
in Portland’s Old Town
Chinatown Neighborhood!
February 16 - March 4, 2018
Chinese new year events include
• Lion Dances every weekend
• Lantern Displays
• Children’s Performances
• Feng Shui Talks
• Kid’s Activities
• Martial Arts
Demonstrations
• Plants Talks
and more!
Chinese New Year is Sponsored by:
Presented in part by grants from:
The Autzen
Foundation
year of the dog
www.lansugarden.org/Chinesenewyear
The Collins
Foundation
Herbert A. Templeton
Foundation
Rose E. Tucker
Charitable Trust

Culture
18. Art | 20. Musician | 22. Chef Spotlight | 24. Events
Artist
Whimsical
Wildlife
Anne Hansen paints
oystercatchers
WRITTEN BY DANA E. NEUTS
TEN YEARS AGO, artist Anne Hansen,
59, of Victoria, B.C., spotted oystercatchers
on the shore and became
fascinated with them. It was a tumultuous
time in her life, and she was
looking for something new to paint.
“When I saw these oystercatchers, I
was just blown away. I had never seen
them before,” Hansen said. “They’re
so fascinating and so funny; they’re
little clowns.”
She became addicted to painting the
shorebirds, and in the last ten years,
has created more than 350 paintings
with oystercatchers. She has even been
dubbed the Oystercatcher Girl.
Hansen’s love for birds and wildlife
started when she was a child. She and
her family took birdwatching trips
every weekend. At that time, Hansen
was embarrassed by the family outings.
She didn’t want her friends to see
her with binoculars because it wasn’t
fashionable, popular, cool, Hansen
said. The childhood stigma long gone,
Hansen remains a casual birder.
A self-taught artist, Hansen was inspired
by Mendelson Joe, a Canadian
singer, songwriter and painter. She
started painting around 1985, and
gravitated toward capturing wildlife,
but in her own way.
“I find that so much wildlife art is
very serious and super realistic,” Hansen
said. “That’s not my style at all. I’m
pretty whimsical.”
Hansen spends much of her time
painting, but she goes in spurts,
sometimes taking months off at a
time. When she’s really inspired, she
might spend five days in a row painting
at all hours of the day and night.
Her subjects change periodically,
though wildlife is her passion. She is
currently fixated on painting herons,
because each one is a little different.
Hansen has also added sea lions,
salmon, stellar jays, bears and bald eagles
to the mix.
“I paint for myself,” Hansen said.
“I’m glad that others appreciate it.”
Most recently, she completed a
painting featuring ten oystercatchers
to celebrate ten years of capturing her
fascination with the comical, colorful
shorebirds. She displayed that painting
and others during the Oak Bay
Studio Tour in Victoria in November,
and plans to be part of the tour again
in April 2018.
Living near the legislature in British
Columbia, Hansen attends a lot
of rallies and demonstrations, usually
related to the environment. She
usually takes a piece of artwork with
her to draw attention to the cause. To
protest the building of Site C, a large
dam on the Peace River in northwest
B.C., for example, she painted a protest
piece that features species that
would be impacted by the dam.
In addition to painting and protesting,
Hansen is an avid urban cyclist,
runs about 4 kilometers daily and loves
being outside.
“We spend too much time indoors,”
Hansen said. “I think we really need
to start being more connected to the
natural world.”
18 | WINTER 2018
ontrakmag.com

OYSTERCATCHERS #180
12”x 48”
OYSTERCATCHERS #283
48”x 30”
OYSTERCATCHERS #368
30”x 40”
OYSTERCATCHERS #81
36”x 36”
OYSTERCATCHERS #358
24”x 48”
ontrakmag.com WINTER 2018 | 19

Musicians
CENTER STAGE & UP 'N' COMING
Skating Polly
Tacoma band’s ’90s
sound fits right in
WRITTEN BY BEN SALMON
STEPSISTERS KELLI MAYO and Peyton Bighorse
were just 9 and 14 years old, respectively,
when they formed their rock band Skating
Polly in their hometown of Oklahoma City.
They were just 13 and 18 when they traveled to
Washington state to record their third album,
Fuzz Steilacoom, in 2013.
“Our parents came with us because … well,
they drove us,” Bighorse said with a laugh. “We
wanted to move out of Oklahoma, and we fell in
love with this place. We felt the magic in the air.”
Mayo and Bighorse had already romanticized
the Northwest, thanks to Nirvana and the
Riot Grrl movement and Beat Happening and
Kimya Dawson, among others. With Skating
Polly echoing the heavy and melodic alt-rock
sound of the early ’90s, Washington seemed
like the motherland.
The music-obsessed family—including mom
and dad and three other siblings (brother Kurtis
now drums in Skating Polly)—moved to Tacoma
in late 2015. It’s been full steam ahead ever
since, with an excellent fourth full-length album
out last year, another in the can, tour dates with
punk legends X and Babes in Toyland, and famous
friends like Veruca Salt’s Louise Post and
Nina Gordon.
Mayo believes the band’s rock ‘n’ roll forebearers
are drawn to Skating Polly not only for
its sound, but also the passion for the music.
“They can see that we’re inspired by them but
that we’re not just imitating them,” she said. “It’s
about taking cool sounds and putting your own
spin on it, and being inspired by a lot of different
things. That’s what we’re trying to do.”
Scan to listen
on Spotify
Train Tracks
| All available on Spotify
Album Review
“Nothing More Than a Body” from The Big Fit
Skating Polly’s fourth album was a big step forward from its previous work, and this
track—gnarled riffs, Riot Grrl yelps, cymbal crashes—captures the band’s evolving sound.
“Louder in Outer Space” from New Trick
When the quiet guitar strum explodes into a chorus that’s heavily distorted but crazy
catchy, you’ll swear you’ve been tossed into a time machine and transported back to 1994.
“Alabama Movies” from Fuzz Steilacoom
Recorded in Washington, this might be Skating Polly’s most Northwest-y track. It shudders
like the Melvins, slithers like Dead Moon and snarls like Bikini Kill. Glorious.
“Pretective Boy” from The Big Fit
All hail the perfect bass line! It’s restless and slinky and irresistible. Paired with minimal
guitars and flirty lyrics, this track is a sweet ‘n’ sour rumbler you won’t want to end.
“Black Sky” from New Trick
Restraint is the name of the game on this New Trick highlight, as Skating Polly builds
tension before layering on lush vocal harmonies and some rhythmic eccentricities.
Imagine a collaborative album featuring Sturgill Simpson and
Waylon Jennings. Or Justin Timberlake and Michael Jackson.
Or Adele and Etta James. That’s more or less what New
Trick is: a trio of thrilling tunes hatched from the combined
minds of young alt-rock combo Skating Polly and two women—Louise
Post and Nina Gordon—who led one of Skating
Polly’s most obvious sonic ancestors, Veruca Salt. Short but
sweet, these songs spill over with crunchy riffs, stomping
rhythms, sugary vocal melodies and lots of ’90s-reminiscent
loud-quiet-loud dynamics. On New Trick, Skating Polly and
Veruca Salt go together like well-worn flannel and amps
cranked up to ten.
20 | WINTER 2018
ontrakmag.com

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Dina Avila
Chef Spotlight
THE ACCIDENTAL
SUPERSTAR:
Han Oak’s Peter Cho
How a once-directionless
young man became one of
Food & Wine’s Best 10 New
Chefs in America
WRITTEN BY CHAD WALSH
Peter Cho’s Han Oak is among
Portland’s hottest restaurants.
22 | WINTER 2018
ontrakmag.com

‘‘
I didn’t move here to open my own restaurant.
I moved here to take care of my mom and to
be close to my parents and start a family of my
own. That’s always been the goal, and every
’’
decision we make is based on that.
— Chef Peter Cho, on moving to Oregon
OREGON NATIVE (by way of South Korea) Peter Cho
had always liked to cook, but he never imagined a future
in it. After spending a post-collegiate summer feeling out
New York City, the fine arts major decided to move into
his brother’s four-story communal Harlem brownstone,
which another eight or nine people shared. He lived there
rent-free, but whenever his number came up he, like everyone
else, was expected to put on the home’s weekly
Sunday dinner.
For inspiration, Cho read cookbooks and watched the
Food Network. His friend, another broke graduate, noticed
this nascent interest.
“He said, ‘Hey, there’s a career to be had cooking—
there’s all these great restaurants in New York City,’” Cho
said. He’d looked into culinary school and was all set to
drop the $35,000 it took to attend New York’s French Culinary
Institute at that time, when another friend talked
him down by suggesting he at least try to land a job in
a kitchen somewhere before committing to that kind of
student debt.
So he walked over to the now-famous Spotted Pig and
offered to wash dishes. The now-celebrity chef April
Bloomfield decided to hire him and put him on the fry
line instead. Over the next decade, Cho would run The
Spotted Pig’s kitchen, as well as the kitchen at Bloomfield’s
The Breslin, eventually taking over as director of culinary
operations for all of Bloomfield’s many present and upcoming
projects.
When he finally returned to Oregon to be close to his
folks, Cho wasn’t necessarily planning to open a restaurant.
“I didn’t move here to open my own restaurant,” he
said. “I moved here to take care of my mom and to be
close to my parents and start a family of my own. That’s
always been the goal, and every decision we make is
based on that.”
In 2016, Cho nonetheless decided that he would open
a restaurant, and Han Oak, in NE Portland. His modern
Korean eatery had critics standing at attention from the
beginning. They were right, too—during his first year, Cho
was named one of Food & Wine’s 10 Best Chefs in America.
GQ named Han Oak one of the nation’s best restaurants,
period.
But it’s not just Cho’s talent that makes Han Oak a
magical place—the best thing about it is how the restaurant
feels.
On a given night, Han Oak is buzzing with locals
and foodie tourists who clamor for Cho’s ever-changing
menu of Korean delights such as kim chi, dumplings
and noodles. But the food is just part of the show. It’s
not unusual to see Cho, his wife, Sun Young Park, and
their line cooks and servers trading bjorning duties for
Cho and Park’s baby daughter, June, or to be chatted up
by their 3-year-old son, Francis. And it’s a nightly improvisational
mise en scène that’s all scored to a blasting
hip-hop soundtrack.
Based on the food, it’s the kind of place you’d visit if
you were in New York or San Francisco. But because Han
Oak is such a family affair, both figuratively and literally
(Cho’s family lives in the space adjoining the restaurant),
it’s turned into an ongoing, rollicking series of nights
where you feel like a friend who’s been invited to a dinner
party at someone’s home (you have). It’s decidedly
Portland in its originality, taste, vibe and ambience.
ontrakmag.com WINTER 2018 | 23

Oregon
EVENTS CALENDAR
Seafood and Wine Festival
South Beach Marina, Newport, OR
February 22 - 25
$16
seafoodandwine.com
Newport may be a little bit out of the way, but it’s well worth the hour
drive from Albany. Held in a large tent near the Rogue Brewery at the
South Beach Marina, this is the Oregon Coast’s most popular event.
There are hundreds of seafood offerings, as well as more than eighty of
the best Oregon wines in the state. You might want to get the weekend
pass and stay a few nights while you’re there.
Portland
BOURBON AND BACON FEST
OMSI
January 14
$35
portland.bourbonandbaconfest.
com
OMSI After Dark is hosting the
second annual Bourbon and
Bacon Fest for one night only.
This event offers the opportunity
to sip your way through some
of the best bourbon the region
has to offer, from large and small
distillers. There is no shortage
of bacon tasting, too, from hors
d’oeuvres to main dishes, all with
bacon as the star.
CHOCOLATEFEST
Oregon Convention Center
January 20-22
$18
chocolatefest.org
More than 60 chocolatiers come
together at this sweet event
to create an experience like no
other. Featuring multiple chef
presentations, live music and the
Sip and Savor Wine Chocolate
Pairing, from Barefoot Wine and
Bubbly and Creo Chocolate. It’s
24 | WINTER 2018
the ideal venue for the serious
chocolate lover.
PDX JAZZ FEST
Multiple locations
February 15-25
$25
pdxjazz.com
The 15th Annual Portland Jazz
Festival features more than
100 musical acts to see over
an eleven-day span. Bringing
together the best jazz musicians
around in celebration of Black
History Month, this unbelievable
blend of jazz and soul music
is something you won’t want
to miss.
KINGDOM ANIMALIA
Portland Art Museum
Now through May 13
$19
portlandartmuseum.org
Visit the Portland Art Museum
now through May to view its
Kingdom Animalia exhibit,
featuring art through animals
from Durer to Picasso. The
exhibit offers a depiction of the
animal kingdom over the past
500 years through print, drawing
and posters.
ANIMATING LIFE: THE ART,
SCIENCE, AND WONDER OF
LAIKA
Portland Art Museum
Through May 20
$19
portlandartmuseum.org
The Portland Art Museum,
together with the Northwest Film
Center, brings you “Animating
Life,” the art, science and wonder
of LAIKA. The exhibit offers a
behind-the-scenes look at the
studio responsible for making
the claymation motion pictures
Paranorman, Coraline and Kubo
and the Two Strings.
Salem
BRAHM’S FIRST SYMPHONY
Smith Auditorium, Willamette
University
January 26
$35
orsymphonysalem.org
Experience the music of Brahm
conducted by David Danzmayr,
featuring Benjamin Beilman on
the violin. Held in the Smith
Auditorium at Willamette
University, the Oregon Symphony
Association in Salem sets out to
enhance your music appreciation
through a series of concerts held
throughout the year.
FIRST TASTE OREGON
Oregon State Fairgrounds,
Columbia Hall
January 26-27
$10
firsttasteoregon.com
Experience Oregon’s premier
cider, wine, spirits and beer
tasting event held in Salem at
the Oregon State Fairgrounds
January 26-27. The event
features live music at two
locations and Oregon artwork
displays throughout the event
center to view as you sip your
drink and taste the many food
pairings available.
MO’S CRAB AND CHOWDER
FESTIVAL
Willamette Valley Wines Estate
Tasting Room
January 28-29
$15
willamettewines.com
CelebrateOregon Crab Month
with Willamette Valley Wines’
20th Annual Mo’s Crab &
Chowder Festival. The event
runs from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., and
features Mo’s famous chowder
bowls and other specialty
seafood bites that pair well with
pinot gris. The event also offers
music by the Flextones.
SALEM WINTER BREWFEST
Oregon State Capitol Park
February 1-4
$10
salemwinterbrewfest.com
Featuring more than 100 craft
beers and ciders along with
an impressive food and music
lineup, this winter event brings
together all of the things that
make the Willamette Valley and
Salem such a great place.
WOODENSHOE TULIPFEST
Woodenshoe Tulip Farm,
Woodburn
March 1-May 1
$5
woodenshoe.com
Woodenshoe Tulip Farm is the
perfect place to plan a springtime
visit. With 30 acres of tulips to
walk through while sipping wine
from its vineyard, you might not
even get to the flower displays
and expansive gardens.
Albany
BEEVENT POLLINATOR
CONFERENCE
Linn County Fair & Expo Center
March 3
$30
linnmastergardeners.com
Linn County Master Gardeners
present this conference, with
three seminars with panel
discussions regarding the
current state of our Oregon
pollinators. Speakers will offer
tips on what you can do in your
home landscape to help support
pollinator health. The vendor fair
will offer local honey products for
sale, bee boxes and pollinatorfriendly
plants.
Eugene
OREGON WEDDING
SHOWCASE
Lane Events Center
January 13-14
$10
oregonweddingshowcase.com
Have a wedding to start
planning? The Oregon Wedding
Showcase features more than
seventy wedding event exhibitors
and professionals to give you
planning ideas and inspiration
for even the most do-it-yourself
bride and groom. Take a peek at
invitations, indoor and outdoor
reception and venue ideas,
cake designs, photographers
and videographers, wedding
planners, flowers and caterers.
THE OREGON TRUFFLE
FESTIVAL
Eugene & Surrounding
Countryside
January 25-February 18
$120 & up
oregontrufflefestival.org
The Oregon Truffle Festival
will hold events throughout
Eugene and the Yamhill Valley
over several weeks. Choose
from an entire weekend truffle
experience, attend a cooking
class or just attend the famed
Oregon Macdown where chefs
come together to reinvent your
favorite brewpub-style foods. If
you are a truffle fan, this is an
event you won’t want to miss.
EUGENE SALSA FESTIVAL
Valley River Inn
February 23-25
$55
eugenesalsafestival.com
The Eugene Salsa Festival is
back for the fifth year with
dance workshops for you to
practice your salsa moves along
with professional dance show
competitions that will grab your
attention. The fan favorite is the
all-night open dance on Saturday
night with live music that goes
until 2:30 a.m.
ontrakmag.com

Eat.
Drink.
Be dazzled.
See Albany
Discover Oregon
Stop for fabulous
cuisine, history,
shopping, and
local family fun.
Tel: 541-928-0911
www.albanyvisitors.com
110 3rd Ave SE
Albany, OR 97321
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503.227.1212 Portland • 360.694.1234 Vancouver

Washington
EVENTS CALENDAR
Toliva Shoal Boat Race
South Bay Grange to Balch Pass
February 17
Free
ssssclub.com/toliva-shoal-race
The Toliva Shoal Boat Race has become a race to look forward to. The
South Sound Sailing Society holds four Southern Sound Series races
each year, but says this is best-attended and the one to watch. Featuring
a weekend of events and drawing eighty to a hundred boats to the Puget
Sound, this is your chance to experience the thrill of racing. The course
runs from Olympia Shoal and the RC boat, rounding Anderson Island,
the Toliva Shoal Buoy, and the buoy in Balch Pass to port.
Vancouver
INTERNATIONAL WOMEN’S
FESTIVAL
Clark College
March 10-11
$29
womensfestivalnw.org
The International Women’s
Festival is coming to Vancouver
this March with the sole purpose
of celebrating women. The goal
of this festival is to provide a
platform for women to connect
with each other and get inspired
by some well-known female
speakers. The event invites you
to take a break from everyday
business and get empowered to
take on life.
Olympia
OLY OLD-TIME FESTIVAL
South Bay Grange
February 15-18
$20
olyoldtime.weebly.com
The tenth annual Oly Time Music
Festival has a passion for the
fiddle and is dedicated to sharing
its old-time music through
teaching, learning and playing.
This year, daytime workshops
will take place in downtown
Olympia at First Christian Church
and Arbutus Folk School and
evening events like the Thursday
night kick-off dance, Friday night
concert and Saturday night
square dance will be held at the
South Bay Grange.
CAPITOL FOOD AND WINE
FESTIVAL
St. Martin’s University - Marcus
Pavilion
March 24
$15
capitalfoodandwinefestival.com
This annual fundraiser began in
1989 and brings together more
than a hundred regional wines,
knowledgeable winemakers,
the best Northwest brews and
hard ciders, foods from local
restaurants and three stages of
live music. You can also enter
the art competition for a chance
to win the $200 prize and the
opportunity to be included in its
advertising next year.
Tacoma
MODEL TRAIN FESTIVAL
Washington State History
Museum
January 1
$12
washingtonhistory.org
The Model Train Festival is a
local wintertime favorite, held
at the History Museum in
Tacoma. You’ll view dozens of
miniature trains with intricate
model railroad layouts displayed
throughout the museum. Train
artifacts from the region are on
display with information on how
railroads influenced the growth
and development of Washington.
There is an activity room for
children to enjoy with toy trains
and a chance to build their own
Lego train creations.
Seattle
NORTHWEST FLOWER AND
GARDEN FESTIVAL
Washington State Convention
Center
February 7-11
$24
gardenshow.com
The region’s top garden
creators will be displaying their
impressions of this year’s theme
“Taste of Spring” in the show
garden area. The marketplace
is the perfect place to visit to
see more than 300 exhibitors
showcase the latest and greatest
gardening tools and accessories
of the season. The festival will
also feature a city-living exhibit,
vintage garden market and
tasting corner.
SAMMAMISH SYMPHONY
ORCHESTRA
Meydenbauer Theatre
February 9
$20
sammamishsymphony.org
Experience Mendelssohn’s
“Scottish” Symphony by the
Sammamish Symphony, including
performances of Otto Nicolai’s
overture “The Merry Wives
of Windsor” and Ravel’s “Five
Greek Folk Songs.” The event will
feature Marcus Shelton as the
tenor soloist.
Everett
AROUND THE ARTIFACT:
INSIDE THE B-25 BOMBER
Flying Heritage & Combat Armor
Museum
January 11
$10
flyingheritage.com
For one day only, the Flying
Heritage and Combat Armor
Museum offers the chance
for visitors to enter its North
American B-25 bomber. Climb
inside this restored World
War II plane and take a seat in
the cockpit of one of the most
versatile aircrafts in the war.
FHCAM staff will be on site to
explain the restoration process
and answer questions.
EVERETT PHILHARMONIC:
THAT MAGNIFICENT MOZART
CONCERT
First Presbyterian Church
February 11
$25
everettphil.org/about-thevenue22.html
Join the Everett Philharmonic
at the First Presbyterian Church
for That Magnificent Mozart
Concert, an all-Mozart symphony
directed by Dr. Paul-Elliot Cobbs.
The evening will feature “Overture
to La Clemenza di Tito,” “Bassoon
Concerto in B-flat Major,”
featuring bassoonist Steven
Morgan, and “Symphony #3.”
DISNEY’S PETER PAN JR
Ludus Performing Arts
January 26
$15
ludusperformingarts.org
Ludus Performing Arts brings
you Disney’s Peter Pan Jr., a
modern twist on a timeless
classic. Based on the original
Disney film and J.M. Barrie’s
play, this play will include new
musical arrangements from
Disney original songs paired with
exciting adventure and some
beautiful set and stage design.
Edmonds
EDMONDS CLAM CHOWDER
COOK OFF
Edmonds Yacht Club
February 24
$5
edmondswa.chambermaster.com
Local restaurants will compete
for the chance to be named “Best
Clam Chowder in Edmonds” at
this cookoff. Other public-voted
award categories include Best
Traditional, Best Cutting-Edge
chowder and Best Booth. Come
hungry and taste Edmonds’ best
chowder at this all-time favorite
community event.
INTERNATIONAL GUITAR
NIGHT
Edmonds Center for the Arts
January 24
$19
edmondscenterforthearts.org
The Edmonds Center for the Arts
presents International Guitar
Night, showcasing the world’s
best guitarists for a wonderful
evening of solos, duets and
quartets. The tour will feature
Lulo Reinhardt, Calum Graham,
Marek Pasieczny and Michael
Chapdelaine.
Bellingham
DEEP FOREST EXPERIENCE
Rockport State Park
Through February 18
Free
parks.state.wa.us
Deep Forest Experience, hosted
by The Washington State Parks
Commission, invites you on a
tour of an ancient forest this
winter with a guided hike through
Rockport State Park. The daily
half-mile hikes begin at 11 a.m.,
noon, 1 p.m. and 2 p.m., and take
visitors through the woods under
towering old-growth trees, some
more than 400 years old. There
is a chance to visit the 500-yearold
“Grandmother Cedar.” Guests
can also pop inside the Discovery
Center for free refreshments and
hot cocoa by the woodstove,
interactive displays, nature videos
and craft-making.
26 | WINTER 2018
ontrakmag.com

Vancouver, BC
EVENTS CALENDAR
Chinese Lantern Festival
PNE
Through January 21
C$19 for adults
vancouverlanternfestival.ca
Huge, elaborate Chinese lanterns are the name of the game at this fiveweek
festival. The event also offers acrobatics and other performances
and authentic Chinese food. Thirty-five lanterns in shapes like dragons,
elephants and flowers will steal the show, though.
POLAR BEAR SWIM
English Bay
January 1
Free
vancouver.ca/parks-recreationculture/polar-bear-swim
Jumpstart 2018 with thousands
of other swimmers who brave the
cold to swim in English Bay on
New Year’s Day. The Vancouver
Polar Bear Swim Club’s inaugural
swim was in 1920, so you
know you’re in good company.
Everyone must fill out a waiver
form to participate.
PUSH INTERNATIONAL
PERFORMING ARTS FESTIVAL
Multiple locations
January 16-February 4
C$119 for a four-show pass
pushfestival.ca
This three-week festival offers
live performing arts in a variety
of disciplines, from dancing to
theater to music. The festival
started in 2003 and has
blossomed to this year feature
twenty-eight shows from eleven
countries. There will be twenty
mainstage shows at a variety of
theaters around the city, as well
as Club PuSh at Fox Theatre.
Single tickets can be purchased.
DINE OUT VANCOUVER
Restaurants citywide
January 19-February 4
C$20-40
dineoutvancouver.com
Hundreds of restaurants
throughout Vancouver participate
in Dine Out, offering multicourse
meals for $20, $30 or $40. The
festival also includes dozens of
special events, like tours and
pop-up cafes and classes. This is
a pro-level foodie event.
HOT CHOCOLATE FESTIVAL
Multiple locations
January 20-February 14
Prices vary
hotchocolatefest.com
Cafes and bakeries around the
city offer delicious, gourmet cups
of hot chocolate using a wide
variety of ingredients. Some ice-
cream shops get in on the action
as well. Get your indulgence
on as the winter continues to
drag on, while supporting local
businesses.
CANYON LIGHTS
Capilano Suspension Bridge
Park
Through January 28
C$42.95 for adults
capbridge.com
Christmas may be over, but
Capilano Suspension Bridge
Park continues to be festive
through the end of January. The
park is covered in hundreds of
thousands of lights, including the
30-ton Douglas firs in Treetop
Adventure. Children’s activities
add to the fun, and kids under
6 are free. The park’s hours
are extended to 9 p.m. for the
evening event.
KATY PERRY: WITNESS TOUR
Rogers Arena
February 5
C$80-775
Please the tween in your life with
a trip to see Katy Perry’s world
tour. Or accept that you want
to go for yourself, and enjoy
that sweet pop sound and the
spectacle of the singer’s fourth
concert tour.
VANCOUVER CHINATOWN
SPRING FESTIVAL
Millennium Gate
February 18
Free
cbavancouver.ca
The Chinese Benevolent
Association of Vancouver puts
on an annual Chinese new year
parade. 2018 will mark the Year
of the Dog, and the parade will
begin at 11 a.m. It has in the
past featured more than 3,000
participants and the largest
assembly of traditional lion dance
teams in Canada.
BC HOME + GARDEN SHOW
BC Place
February 21-25
C$16
bcplace.com
Get ideas for updating your
home’s look at this huge home
and garden show, which features
exhibitors of everything from
construction and renovation to
home decor, architecture and
pools and spas. The five-day
event will include appearances
by some of Canada’s biggest
HGTV stars.
CELTICFEST
Multiple locations
March 10-18
Ticket prices vary
celticfestvancouver.com
Celebrate your Irish (or honorary
Irish) roots at the CelticFest, a
collection of all things Celtic,
from music to soccer. Go beyond
the green beer with free festival
events, which run March 17-18
from noon to 11 p.m. at Robson
Square Vancouver.
VANCOUVER INTERNATIONAL
DANCE FESTIVAL
Multiple locations
March 1-24
Free to C$65
vidf.ca
Get your fill of contemporary
dance with the weekslong
international dance festival,
which brings diverse acts to town
for dozens of performances. The
festival offers some free shows,
as well as classes and workshops
and art and photography exhibits.
THE LOST FLEET EXHIBITION
Vancouver Maritime Museum
Through May 27
C$12.50
vancouvermaritimemuseum.com
When Pearl Harbor was
bombed in December 1941,
the U.S. entered World War II.
What many don’t know is that
more than 1,200 Japanese-
Canadian owned fishing boats
were confiscated off the B.C.
coast and sold to canneries or
non-Japanese fishermen. The
exhibit examines the incident and
features photographs and models
of the boats.
VANCOUVER INTERNATIONAL
WINE FESTIVAL
Vancouver Convention Center
February 24-March 4
C$70-485
vanwinefest.ca
Considered one of the best wine
events in North America, about
25,000 people show up for the
wine festival. The Tasting Room
offers about 800 wines at four
International Festival Tastings,
and dozens of special events like
tastings, seminars and special
meals offer still more wine
options. This year, the festival will
feature Spain and Portugal.
PLAYDOME
BC Place
March 22-26
C$29 for all-day pass
bcplace.com
This indoor carnival comes right
in time for spring break, with
more than forty-five rides and
dozens more carnival games.
There is a Ferris wheel, merry-goround
and plenty of rides for the
more daring among us. Once the
games are played, it’s time for fair
snacks. Cotton candy, anyone?
VANCOUVER INTERNATIONAL
AUTOSHOW
vancouver Convention Centre
March 28-April 1
C$5-20
vancouverinternationalautoshow.
com
Driving enthusiasts won’t want to
miss this show, which has been
around nearly a hundred years
and includes displays of almost
500 vehicles, with contests and
giveaways mixed in. The 2017
show featured exotic and luxury
cars, as well as the Monster
Energy Dub Show Tour.
ontrakmag.com WINTER 2018 | 27

Outdoors
28. Athlete | 30. Notes from the Adventure
CRUISE CONTROL
J.R. Celski glides toward another Olympic medal
INTERVIEW BY CORINNE WHITING
THREE-TIME OLYMPIC medalist J.R. Celski has a keen sense of balance—on and off the ice. A valued member
of the U.S. Speedskating Team who recently qualified for PyeongChang 2018, the good-hearted talent also takes
time to mentor young students from underserved communities.
Celski’s skating style summed up? “Efficient, relaxed, smooth.” He gets pumped listening to ’90s hip-hop and
R&B playlists, counts Macklemore as a friend (after helping produce “The Otherside,” a documentary featuring the
Seattle superstar), and lists chicken adobo, lumpia and rice as his favorite post-race meal.
Do you remember your first time on skates?
My parents put skates on my feet when I was 3 years
old. I had a big smile on my face and loved it.
How did you get into competitive skating?
My dad, brothers and I joined the inline speed
skating team at Pattison’s West [in Federal Way] in
the early ’90s. From there, I went on to win a couple
National Championships, transitioned to the ice in
2002 and have been competing on blades ever since.
What is your current schedule?
I train on average seven hours a day, six days a week.
A lot of these are three-workout days. Eight sessions
on the ice with off-ice skating drills to follow, two
bike workouts, two lifting sessions, video review and
many hours spent warming up and cooling down. I
spend just as much time at the Oval as I do at home,
it seems. When I’m not training, I’m making sure I’m
eating properly and getting my recovery in.
What excites you most as you head to
PyeongChang?
I have been on a humbling journey throughout my
career. Everything from success on the big stage all
the way to life-threatening injury has shaped my
mindset and played a part in the athlete I am today. I
am most excited about bringing everything together
and being my absolute best when the time is right.
What does your involvement with Classroom
Champions entail?
It is a fulfilling opportunity to instill life lessons that I
have learned throughout my career with [nationwide]
classrooms. Building a relationship with students via
Skype is one of the few ways I am able to see the effect
I can have on kids hungry for information they can
apply in their own lives. Uploading monthly lessons
touching on subjects like perseverance, setting goals
and fair play allows them to think outside of the box
and hear valuable information from people who have
experienced it firsthand. It’s an inspiring platform not
only for the classrooms, but for the athletes as well.
What’s your proudest accomplishment?
Coming back from what I thought was a career-ending
injury in 2009. The thought process that I had to go
through from getting back on my feet, pushing through
the physical and mental pain to even giving myself a
chance to go for my goals was by far the most difficult
thing I have endured. It showed me that anything is
possible, even if the odds are stacked against you.
What’s on your 2018 wish list?
To live in the moment and savor the process of
whatever it is that I am doing. I wish health and
happiness for my family and friends, and that we can
all find peace amongst the chaos.
28 | WINTER 2018
ontrakmag.com

Thomas Di Nardo
J.R. CELSKI
Age: 27
Hometown:
Federal Way, Washington
Notable Achievement:
Three-time Olympic
medalist
ontrakmag.com WINTER 2018 | 29

Notes from
the Adventure
TRAVELER’S GUIDE TO FUN
Oregon Trail Meets
Washington Wines
Group touring offers this traveler
a new approach to adventure
WRITTEN BY CATIE JOYCE-BULAY
A NATURAL STORYTELLER, Guy Glaeser chose to create
a tour around good stories. Rather than focus on the
iconic and obvious sights, he wanted to showcase the
lesser-known treasures of Eastern Washington, where he
and his wife, Robin, live and run the new tour company,
InquisiTours. The tour centers on the mighty Columbia
River. He notes that throughout history, rivers are where
things happen. “I wanted to figure out how to bring the
river to life and all the tributaries of culture and history
that flow from that,” he said.
Typically not a group traveler, I was intrigued
by this concept, and felt it might be a great
way to gain a deeper understanding of my new
home state. Right after booking the four-night
trip, I could already see I was going to enjoy the
guided experience. When planning a vacation,
my Type A modus operandi is to do extensive
research on everything from the perfect place
to stay to the best brunch. But that was all done
for me, which felt liberating—my only job on
this vacation was to enjoy it.
Through the mountains in style
We all met up in Seattle’s 101-year-old King
Street Station. The beautifully restored train
station, with its carved ceilings and
bronze chandeliers, set the perfect tone
30 | WINTER 2018
ontrakmag.com

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Leavenworth Chamber, courtesy of InquisiTours
Visit Walla Walla
to begin a good old-fashioned train journey on Amtrak’s Empire
Builder line to Leavenworth, where we’d spend the next
two nights.
Soon after boarding, Glaeser was pouring us a few Washington
wines to sample as we admired views of the Olympic
Mountains and Puget Sound. We watched city turn to suburbs,
suburbs to farmland, then to deep Cascadian forest.
After our sunset dinner in the dining car, the train traveled
through a 7-mile tunnel, coming out onto nightfall in the dry
part of the state.
When you arrive in Leavenworth, the best thing to do is
grab a beer, which is just what my travel companion and I
did at Icicle Brewing Company, within walking distance from
our hotel (the lovely Bavarian Lodge). The Dark Persuasion,
a German chocolate cake ale, was perfect to sip while getting
to know our tour-mates. I wouldn’t rate myself very high on
an extrovert scale, but throughout the trip I found the conversation
flowed easily because we all had one major thing in
common—a love of travel.
Beer, brats and small-town ingenuity
At first glance, you may dismiss Leavenworth as just another
tourist attraction, but after a passionately narrated tour with
a pair of proud Leavenworth natives, you will change your
mind. Leavenworth County Historical Society volunteers told
the tale of the town’s transformation while guiding us through
its streets and riverside park. Like many small rural communities,
Leavenworth found itself struggling after rail and logging
booms and busts. But unlike many small towns, it decided to
do something about it. In the 1960s, with assistance from the
University of Washington, the town began its transformation
into an authentic Bavarian-themed mountain hamlet with
detailed research and guidelines. Today its adherence to the
original vision and continued community involvement make
it a welcoming place.
There was plenty to fill the afternoon, from more adventurous
river rafting and ziplining to downtown shopping, or
a walk along the paths of crystal-clear Icicle Creek. A visit to
the Nutcracker Museum is a must. Or you could just fill up
on schnitzel and spaetzel, then spend the rest of the afternoon
taking in stunning mountain views from the lodge’s hot tub.
I won’t reveal which I chose. I will say I had enough of an appetite
to enjoy our group beer and brats dinner at München
Haus Bavarian Grill and Beer Garden, Leavenworth’s most
popular eatery.
What the Ice Age and apples have in common
We got our first taste of Glaeser’s narrative skills on the motorcoach
ride through the Columbia Valley, hugging the Pacific
Northwest’s largest river most of the way. As we finished our
coffees, Glaeser recounted the geologic history of the
unique basalt canyonlands. It was like a ride through
32 | WINTER 2018
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Dzhan Wiley
Leavenworth Nutcracker Museum
Drew Mitchem Gaynor
FAR LEFT, FROM TOP Tourists stroll the streets in Leavenworth. Abeja is one of several wineries near Walla Walla. ABOVE, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Visitors can find a number of
beers at Icicle Brewing Company. Soak in the scenery while on InquisiTours’ NW Wine & Rail Tour. The Nutcracker Museum in Leavenworth houses a variety of nutcracker styles.
time, easy to picture the Ice Age Missoula Floods charging
over the landscape. He brought us back to present day with a
sampling of Washington apples as we drove through acres of
orchards that benefit from the flood’s nutrient-rich deposits.
Our lunch destination envisioned another benefactor of
the region’s fertile soils—its grapes. An outdoor table awaited
us at Terra Blanca Winery, part of Red Mountain AVA. Our
lunch was paired with views of the estate vineyard and distant
hills. The warm sunny day was perfect for sipping delicate
Arch Terrace Rosé. My friend’s turkey, avocado and pesto
club sandwich was his favorite meal of the trip.
Before rolling into Walla Walla for a quick tour of downtown,
we stopped at Reininger Winery. We lingered over a
leisurely reserve tasting and charcuterie on the lawn, surrounded
by the valley’s rolling wheat fields.
Wine and conversation flow in Walla Walla
In Walla Walla, we explored the art and history of this small
town, one of the first settlements in the West and a popular
stop on the Oregon Trail. The afternoon was reserved for relaxing
and exploring the walkable downtown shops and eateries
on our own, with recommendations from Glaeser, who
calls Walla Walla home. I joined a wine-and-food pairing guided
by Walla Walla Food Tours. I was surprised by the diversity
of wine styles that Walla Walla soil supported and their accessibility—plenty
of tasting rooms within one downtown block.
The highlight of the trip was our last group dinner at
Whitehouse-Crawford Restaurant. Housed in an old planing
mill and furniture company, the restored brick building is a
perfect example of Walla Walla’s mix of old West charm and
modern chic. The locally sourced tomato and melon salad
with arugula and feta was my favorite dish of the trip. But
it was the dinner party itself that made the evening. If you’d
been a fly on the wall of the cozy private dining room, you’d
think this was a celebration among longtime friends.
“My favorite part of these tours is seeing the friendships
that develop,” said Glaeser, who has more than twenty years’
experience guiding tours. “It’s the best part. You can’t put that
on a brochure, because it sounds too cheesy, but it’s true.”
On our way out of town, we made an impromptu stop at a
roadside stand to stock up on the famous Walla Walla sweet
onions and sample fresh plums. Our original lunch stop was
canceled since the winery was in the middle of the unpredictable
harvest season. Glaeser, ready to roll with any scheduling
snafus, had perhaps an even better Plan B. Instead of taking
the normal route, we wove along the scenic Yakima River
Canyon for a relaxing riverside picnic. Before slicing up some
fresh sweet onions for our sandwiches, Glaeser demonstrated
his juggling skills with them, causing us to wonder, ‘Is there
anything Guy can’t do?’
ontrakmag.com WINTER 2018 | 33

Weekender
MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR WEEKEND
Under the Shadow
of the Chief
Squamish, B.C., makes
accessing the outdoors easy
WRITTEN BY LAUREN KRAMER
ABOVE Squamish sits
at the base of the Chief,
a mountain popular
with climbers.
FOR YEARS, SQUAMISH was little more than
a gas stop on the Sea-to-Sky corridor for skiers
making a beeline for Whistler. Over the last decade,
though, the city of 19,000 has gained recognition
and acclaim for its own attractions that
easily satisfy weekend visitors in search of fun
and adventure.
Squamish sits in the shadow of the Stawamus
Chief, a precipitous granite mountain revered by
serious rock climbers the world over. The Chief
overlooks the city and Howe Sound, a picturesque
fjord that empties into the Strait of Georgia.
It’s also on the banks of the Squamish River,
and it’s here that our weekend began on a clear,
wintry November morning. Snug in waders and
waterproof boots, we stepped onto the rocky
Squamish River bed, walked knee-deep into the
current and had our first lesson in fly-fishing.
The odds were good we’d catch a chum salmon,
said our guide, Damien Bagnoud, as he
demonstrated the technique for whizzing the line
in a perfect arc in the air, landing the fly hook in
the river’s center and arching it back just enough
that the salmon would take a bite, mistaking it for
an egg. “Even if they do, we’re going to practice
catch and release,” he said solemnly. “We believe
the fish have fought so hard to get to this point in
their life cycle. We owe it to them to release them
back into the wild and let them complete it naturally.”
Around us, the eagles were calling, filling
the crisp morning air with their distinctive cries.
They knew these returning salmon were nearing
the end of their lives, and it was easy to tell they
were hungry for the rich, pink flesh.
You can’t visit Squamish without admiring
the Chief, but we were determined to do more
than admire it from a distance. The first of the
Chief’s three peaks involves hiking to an
1,800-foot elevation, some of it up wooden
stairs built into the well-worn trail, and
34 | WINTER 2018
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FROM LEFT Fishing the Squamish River. Old railway
equipment at the West Coast Railway Heritage Park.
EAT
The Salted Vine Kitchen & Bar
saltedvine.ca
Fergie’s Café
sunwolf.net
Howe Sound Brew Pub
howesound.com
STAY
Howe Sound Inn
howesound.com
Sunwolf Resort
sunwolf.net
PLAY
Trout Country Fishing Guides
fishwhistler.com
Rope Runner Aerial Park
roperunnerpark.com
West Coast Railway
Heritage Park
wcra.org
Britannia Mine Museum
britanniaminemuseum.com
Tourism Squamish
exploresquamish.com
other parts boulder hopping. The route is
steep and taxing, but for those with the
stamina to complete it, the Chief promises
the reward of spellbinding views and brilliantly
clear waterfalls that cascade over
the rocks. Do this hike and trust me, you’ll
sleep well that night!
We stayed up just long enough to dine
on beer-battered chicken wings and lamb
burgers smeared with rich fruit chutney
at the Howe Sound Brew Pub, washing
them down with a flight of the brewpub’s
superb beer. The next day we headed to
Fergie’s, a trailer-turned-restaurant on
the banks of the Cheakamus River and
the favorite brunch venue for Squamish
locals. We’d heard the salmon eggs benny
was legendary and the atmosphere
convivial. We left happily sated, knowing
both rumors were accurate.
The cold was taking its toll on our last
day in town, so we opted for two indoor
entertainment venues. At the West Coast
Railway Heritage Park we stepped onto
old locomotives as we toured Western
Canada’s largest collection of heritage
railway equipment. We marveled at a
Canadian Pacific rail car built in 1890, its
sleek, mahogany wood-paneled interior a
sign of the luxury enjoyed by its business
travelers. We read of railroad robberies
and heists in the mail car, on which meticulously
sorted mail made its way around
Canada. A few minutes’ drive south down
Highway 99, we toured another historical
site: the Britannia Mine Museum, where
17 percent of the world’s copper was
mined between 1900 and 1970. The low
price of copper forced the mine’s closure,
and it became a museum where visitors
in hardhats could ride trains deep into
the belly of the mountain side. Here, we
learned of the hazardous work conditions
endured by miners, whose days were filled
with darkness, noise and heavy labor.
We headed home on the Sea-to-Sky
Highway, a route that constitutes one
of the many highlights of a Squamish
getaway. The circuitous highway runs
between West Vancouver and Whistler,
delivering inspirational views of the
mountains on one side and the Pacific
Ocean, dotted with the Gulf Islands, on
the other. It’s a quintessential British Columbia
experience and the kind of drive
that leaves you grateful for the beauty and
bounty Pacific Northwest—and longing
to return.
36 | WINTER 2018
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experience
paradise.
Deep in the heart of the wild and scenic Rogue River, the
oasis of Paradise Lodge beckons. Leave the noise and
worries of civilization behind—access to Paradise is by
hiking, river rafting, helicopter or Jerry’s Rogue Jets from Gold
Beach. With miles of trails in every direction, swimming holes,
volleyball, horseshoes or just relaxing in a hammock—there
are plenty of things to do right here at Paradise Lodge.
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Weekender
MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR WEEKEND
The Hometown That Turned Cool
Don’t look now, but Salem is flourishing
Brandon DesJarlais
WRITTEN BY LINDSAY MCWILLIAMS
The Peter Courtney Minto
Island Bridge connects Salem’s
downtown Riverfront Park to
Minto-Brown Island Park.
IN THE SHADOW of towering Portland is Oregon’s
second-largest city, often bypassed by travelers
on I-5 with Voodoo Doughnuts in their eyes.
In elementary school, you learn that Salem is the
capital of Oregon and then likely forget it’s there.
What many don’t know is it’s becoming a place
worth visiting, less than an hour outside the
traffic-ridden streets of Portland.
38 | WINTER 2018
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SINCE
1934
World-class
education,
designed for
the Northwest
Graduates of Willamette — the first university
in the West — have led the way for more than
175 years. Explore your own path through a
Willamette degree program, including:
• Over 36 undergraduate majors and
programs on our beautiful residential campus.
• A top tier MBA program ranked among the
best in the nation.
• The Northwest’s first College of Law with an
unbeatable location across the street from the
Oregon State Capitol.
Q
R
willamette.edu/go/amtrak
SALEM, OREGON

EAT
Bo & Vine
boandvine.com
Word of Mouth Bistro
wordofsalem.com
STAY
The Grand Hotel
grandhotelsalem.com
PLAY
Minto-Brown Island Park
cityofsalem.net/minto-brownisland-park
Riverfront Park
cityofsalem.net/riverfront-park
The Rock Boxx
therockboxx.com
Cristom Vineyards
cristomvineyards.com
Taylor Higgins
Greg Rains
Redhawk Vineyard & Winery
redhawkwine.com
Honeywood Winery
honeywoodwinery.com
The Elsinore Theatre
elsinoretheatre.com
Oregon State Hospital
Museum of Mental Health
oshmuseum.org
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT The Minto Island pedestrian bridge connects two parks. The Elsinore Theatre was built in 1926. The Oregon
State Hospital is home to both an operating psychiatric hospital and a museum. Find gourmet build-your-own burgers at Bo & Vine.
Museum of Mental Health
I grew up in Salem and, as many feel about their hometowns, I
couldn’t wait to leave it. But each time I returned, there was a new
food cart community, a recently opened hip little bar downtown,
or a newly built modern footbridge across the Willamette—and
Salem had become a little bit cooler.
Over the past few years, the foodie and booze scene has come
to life in Salem. One of the latest additions, Bo & Vine, serves
build-your-own burgers with gourmet sauces and toppings,
along with trays of every type of fry and tot imaginable. A little
less new is Word of Mouth Bistro—quite possibly the best and
most low-key breakfast joint I’ve ever been to. Local loyals rejoiced
when the restaurant’s owners turned down a feature on
Food Network’s “Diners, Drive-ins and Dives” to avoid drawing
more customers to the already-packed converted home where
it’s located. The crème brulee french toast and cinnamon roll
pancakes are must-haves.
Don’t forget that Salem lies in the heart of the lush Willamette
Valley and is surrounded by some of the state’s notable wineries
such as Cristom Vineyards, Redhawk Vineyard & Winery and
Honeywood Winery. If wine isn’t for you, the capital city is also
home to several breweries and three cideries.
If you dare brave the blustery weather, be sure to walk, run or
bike across Salem’s Minto Island Bridge, a long-awaited pedestrian
bridge that connects downtown’s Riverfront Park to the scenic,
1,200-acre Minto-Brown Island Park. Or stay active at the brand
new bouldering gym, The Rock Boxx—complete with an onsite
tap house. Maybe you’ll lace up a pair of ice skates at Riverfront
Park, which will host an ice rink for the first time this winter.
Naturally, capital cities have history, but Salem has rich bits
of history unrelated to politics. The Oregon State Hospital, best
known for its starring role in One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest,
has been standing since 1883. Still an operating psychiatric hospital,
it’s also home to a museum with an exhibit about the film and
a disturbingly fascinating past of lobotomies and eugenics. The
Elsinore Theatre downtown, erected in 1926, once played silent
films. Today, classic cinema is revived in this Gothic-style theater,
sheathed in stained glass.
With its smattering of old and new, Salem has become a worthy
weekend stop on I-5. And though there’s something painful
in saying this about my hometown, Salem is pretty cool now.
40 | WINTER 2018
ontrakmag.com

Discover. Engage. Explore.
Visit your Oregon State Capitol
Free and open to the public 8 a.m.-5 p.m.
weekdays. Learn more at oregoncapitol.com.
Exploring Oregon’s Heritage, 10 a.m.-2 p.m.
Feb. 17 Oregon’s 159 th Birthday Party
March 17 Cherry Blossom Day
April 28 Asian and Pacific Islander Day
Receive 10% off an item when
you present this coupon at
Oregon Capitol Store.
Oregon State Capitol, 900 Court Street NE, Salem.
Discount may not be combined with other discounts or
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THE SYMBOL OF SEATTLE was
sketched on a napkin by Eddie Carlson,
the president of Seattle's World's Fair, in a
coffee shop in 1959.
The fair, then known as the 1962 Century
21 Exposition, was desperate for a
centerpiece, and struggled to find a design
that represented the World’s Fair
theme: the future. Organizers, hoping
the fair would propel the city forward in
innovation, found that centerpiece in the
Space Needle.
42 | WINTER 2018
A HISTORY OF THE
SPACE NEEDLE
written by Mitch Wiewel
photography courtesy of
Seattle Public Library’s George Gulacsik
Space Needle Collection
ontrakmag.com

"We always felt
that mobility
was our
safety. Safety
harnesses—
you'd stumble
over them."
— Jack Edwards
Today, the Space Needle is the most visited tourist
attraction in the Northwest, with more than a million
visitors annually. But back in the early 1960s, the Space
Needle was denied public funding and a group of forward-thinking
men funded the project privately.
In 1961, five investors purchased a plot of land within
the fairgrounds. Real estate developer and financier
Bagley Wright teamed up with Alaska Steamship
president Ned Skinner and Weyerhaeuser Corporation
president Norton Clapp to form the Pentagram Corporation.
Together with the Howard S. Wright Construction
Company, which would make architect John Graham
Jr.’s plans a reality, they began construction right
away.
The World’s Fair was only a year away—it would
be an epic sprint against time to be ready for opening
day on April 21, 1961. US Steel called the Space
Needle “The 400-Day Wonder.” The concrete pour for
the foundation took a combined 467 cement trucks just
twelve hours. It was the longest continuous concrete
pour in the West. The workers balanced on beams hundreds
of feet in the air without safety harnesses. “We
always felt that mobility was our safety. Safety harnesses,
you’d stumble over them,” construction worker Jack
Edwards told The Seattle Times.
ontrakmag.com WINTER 2018 | 43

The Fair’s commissioner originally
planned to hold a “Festival of the West,”
but after the Russians launched Sputnik in
1957, instead adopted a science and technology
focus. It was a turbulent time for
America—the country was in the throes of
the Cold War, with the Vietnam War heating
up.
Skepticism surrounded the World’s Fair
and the Space Needle. The community was
not enthusiastic; the Fair’s public relations
department reported “widespread public
apathy in many areas and even outright
opposition to the Fair in Seattle.” Alfred
Schweppe, an attorney and former dean of
the University of Washington’s School of
Law, even filed a lawsuit to stop it.
Others saw this World’s Fair as America’s
moment to shine as a leader in aerospace
and science. The post-World War II fairs
around the globe were becoming a thing
of the past, as the age of televisions and
airplanes changed society. But the Space
Needle was a patriotic business gamble,
and Seattle has never looked back. Ticket
sales soared as more than 9.5 million visitors
flocked to Seattle's new Space Needle
and monorail. The World’s Fair paid off its
private investors in just three months.
Museum of History and Industry, Seattle
The fair's commissioner originally
planned to hold a "Festival of the West,"
but after the Russians launched Sputnik
in 1957, instead adopted a science and
technology focus.
44 | WINTER 2018
ontrakmag.com

President John F.
Kennedy opened
the World's Fair by a
remote transmission
and tapped into a
supernova's radiowave,
10,000 light
years away.
President John F. Kennedy opened
the World’s Fair by a remote transmission
and tapped into a supernova’s radio-wave,
10,000 light years away, and
sent the telegraph that signaled the start
of the fair and modern age as we know it.
After the first day of the World’s Fair,
the City of Seattle would never be the
same. It was key to turning the region
from provincial “country bumpkin” to a
leading-edge technology-forward city.
And the Space Needle was the crown
jewel, with a specially designed rotating
restaurant and, on the roof,
a 40-foot-tall beacon of natural
gas-powered light, now a more
earth-friendly, lamp-powered Legacy
Light.
The Seattle World’s Fair was a welcome
wagon for the future and the
promises of technology, and the Space
Needle was a place of prestige and power.
Civic leaders and businessmen would
meet 500 feet above Seattle in the rotating
restaurant to negotiate deals. Powerful
people have congregated in the Space
Needle since its beginning.
ontrakmag.com WINTER 2018 | 45

There is also a history of shenanigans,
including illegal parachute jumps and a
man dressed as Santa Claus climbing to
place a Christmas tree atop the tower.
There is also a history of shenanigans
that locals refer to with pride, including
illegal parachute jumps from
its deck and a man dressed as Santa
Claus climbing to place a Christmas
tree atop the tower.
In the Space Needle’s early years
people would wait hours in line to
dine at the five-star restaurant with
the best view in Seattle. World leaders,
such as the United Kingdom’s
Prince Philip and the shah and empress
of Iran, visited the Space Needle
to try fresh Dungeness crab and other
local delicacies.
The Space Needle has become as
globally recognizable as the Eiffel
Tower or Statue of Liberty. It is still
owned by a family of civic-minded entrepreneurs
who have cultivated it as
the city’s logo. But like all things, the
Space Needle got a little outdated in
the fast-paced age it was designed to
represent. And so the Wright family,
owners of the Space Needle and direct
descendants of one of its five founders,
recently invested more than $100
million to provide modern updates to
the building and create a dizzying display
of glass flooring and walls in the
restaurant at the top.
46 | WINTER 2018
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Fifty-five years since opening day at the fair,
the Space Needle is undergoing a major overhaul,
adding as much glass as possible to make a more
seamless view of Seattle. The tables, chairs and
entire dining room floor of the restaurant will
be made of glass, as will the observation deck’s
cage barriers. The renovations are scheduled to
be complete in the summer of 2018.
Since the 1962 World’s Fair, Seattle has become
home to Microsoft, Starbucks and Amazon,
among other innovative tech leaders. The culture
of Seattle has embraced the spaceship-like building
that looms over the city. The Northwest is a
science and technology hotbed—just as the five
men who wanted to symbolize the future built
the Space Needle, so too have companies put
their money into the ground here and been met
with success.
ontrakmag.com WINTER 2018 | 47

Remote Resorts
of the
Pacific Northwest
Randy Lincks
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT The Tyax float plane rests
on still water against the mountain landscape. Horseback
riding is one of the activities Tyax lodge offers its
guests. The sauna and steam room at the Spa at Tyax.
48 | WINTER 2018
ontrakmag.com

Andrew Doran
AS THE FLOAT PLANE BEGAN its descent towards
Tyax Lodge & Heliskiing, located northeast of
Whistler, my fellow passengers in the aisles behind me
pressed their phones to the plexiglass to get photos.
The scenery was jaw-dropping. As we swooped a little
closer to the rugged snow-capped peaks of the Southern
Chilcotin Mountains, it seemed these breathtaking
views of British Columbia’s backcountry couldn’t get
any better … but they did.
On final approach, the floatplane skimmed across
the shimmering aquamarine waters of Tyaughton
Lake to touch down and land at the resort’s dock.
We were greeted by a couple of the resort’s staff before
heading up to check into our luxurious rooms.
The pristine lake and mountains are the perfect backdrop
for this 29-guest log-cabin style resort. Although
accessible by air or ground, it is remote enough to provide
the serenity I longed for.
The following morning, after a few cups of java and
a hearty breakfast, we headed to the stable for a threehour
horseback ride. Even though I’ve been riding several
times over the years, some nasty falls decades ago
always leave me a tad apprehensive. This is real cowboy
country, however, and too big an adventure to pass
up. Our experienced guide led the way through dense,
woodsy trails before we reached the summit. We were
rewarded with spectacular 360-degree views of the
Bridge River Valley below.
Returning dusty but happy, it was time for an adventure
recovery massage at the Spa at Tyax. That’s
the actual name for this fifty-minute combination
deep tissue and Swedish massage–the perfect antidote
for sore muscles.
When it came to the cuisine, the kitchen team
stayed true to the fresh-is-best, less-is-more philosophy.
There’s a passion here for local, foraged and sustainable
ingredients, which meant our meals went
way beyond sitting down for a nice meal. The West
Coast-inspired cuisine paired beautifully with a bottle
of Okanagan’s finest wine.
—Michelle Hopkins
Tyax Lodge
& Heliskiing
—Gold Bridge, BC
Andrew Doran
ontrakmag.com WINTER 2018 | 49

Silvertip
Lodge
—Quesnel Lake, BC
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP A porch view from
the Silvertip Lodge. Mountain goats are one of
the many wildlife spotted near Silvertip.
SILVERTIP LODGE HELI-SKIING, which lies on the unspoiled
shores of Quesnel Lake, was built in 1967 for avid fishermen and
hunters. No wonder. Quesnel Lake—the deepest lake in British
Columbia as well as the deepest fjord lake in the world—is home to
about a quarter of BC's sockeye and colorful rainbow trout.
For centuries, Quesnel Lake’s chilly waters have provided a perfect
home for the world’s largest strain of wild salmon and trout. Its
mountainous backdrop is surrounded by a forest for mountain goats,
caribou, cougars, grizzly bears, black bears, moose, deer, wolves and
bald eagles, loons, osprey, kingfishers and other birds.
After settling into my wood-panelled room with all the comforts
of home, it was time to don head-to-toe waders for my first fly-fishing
experience.
Cariboo’s Big Sky lived up to its name. Sunlight glinted off the
lake, and the only sound was salmon jumping. Our fishing guide was
Doug Mooring of Cariboo Rivers Trout Fishing and Wilderness Adventures.
He revved up the boat, handed me the rod he’d rigged with
one of his favorite flies, and we launched.
On my first cast, I got a strike but set the hook too slowly and
missed the fish. But just a few casts later, I watched my fly alight
and begin drifting downstream. In a moment, a trout rose from the
depths, only to slip from my grasp. Sadly, that experience was to repeat
itself throughout my trip.
A half-day hike to Wells Gray Provincial Park’s Summit Lake—a
historic and seldom hiked alpine trail—was another highlight.
Trekking through overgrown mossy terrain with the sun streaking
through the forest, I encountered one photo op after another.
Midweek, we piled into the boat heading to Little Niagara waterfalls
on the east arm of Quesnel Lake. The raging headwaters’ natural
silts form a large white cloudy expanse at the base of the falls as it
thunders into Quesnel Lake.
Although fishing, hiking, boating and heli-skiing are popular here,
one thing that isn’t is surfing the Internet—there's no cellphone coverage
and the satellite internet link is spotty at best. For someone
whose cell phone is an appendage, after a couple of days, I felt infinitely
more relaxed than I’d felt in a while.
Meanwhile, the hearty outdoor activity made one’s stomach growl.
Silvertip dining was homespun but undeniably delicious. The main
lodge is where all meals are served family-style, using locally sourced
produce, sustainable seafood and meats.
During the winter months, Tyax and Silvertip Lodge attracts heli-skiers—lots
of them. The real appeal is endless powder, the kind of
grand conditions few get a chance to experience.
—Michelle Hopkins
50 | WINTER 2018
ontrakmag.com

Rolling Huts
—Winthrop, WA
Chad Kirkpatrick
IN NORTH CENTRAL WASHINGTON,
outside Winthrop, six huts stand alone
in a field facing the Okanogan Mountains.
The huts, each with refrigerator,
microwave, wi-fi and fireplace, aren’t as
off the beaten path as some other resorts.
But the experience is so singular,
it doesn’t matter.
Designed by Olson Kundig Architects’
Tom Kundig, the huts have sleeping platforms
and modular furniture, as well as
an outdoor, portable toilet. Nearby, a
barn has full bathrooms and showers.
The huts are available for rent yearround,
and are arguably most stunning
in winter, surrounded by snow.
Rolling, you ask? The huts are on
wheels, which allows the structures
to stay off the meadow floor and provide
a better perspective and view of
the mountains and nature surrounding
you. In addition to the spare design of
the hut, there are decks on each of the
structures and picnic tables and shelters
nearby.
Unlike most remote locales, the winter
is arguably the best time to visit
the Rolling Huts, because of the nearby
terrain. Out the door from the huts are
more than 120 miles of cross-country ski
trails, many of which are also accessible
in summer as hiking and biking trails.
—Sheila G. Miller
FROM TOP The Rolling Huts are on wheels to stay
off the meadow floor. Huts have modular furniture.
In winter, 120 miles of ski trails are just out the door.
Tim Bies
Tim Bies
ontrakmag.com WINTER 2018 | 51

Ross Lake
Resort
—Rockport, WA
FROM TOP Fly fishing is one activity enjoyed at
this wilderness retreat. The resort suites all offer
a deck front view of the lake.
ALONG THE EDGE OF ROSS LAKE in the North Cascades National
Park lies a string of buoyant little cabins. Floating peacefully
on still water, there is no road access to this ephemeral resort, surrounded
by vistas, old growth timber and waterfalls.
The directions to reach this remote resort include: “Hike the trail
and find the phone booth that has our number, call us and we will
tell you to wait on the dock where the Diablo Lake Ferry will pick
you up. You will arrive at a landing, a flatbed truck will pick you up
and bring you to the resort.” You were looking for remote, right?
Arrive at your own private floating cabin equipped with a
wood-burning stove, running hot water and electricity. Stylish
with just the right amount of rustic, this is not some middle-of-nowhere
shotgun shack. Tip-toe along the deck and dive into the lake
at a moment’s notice. Cast a line from your doorway or window.
Most importantly, lose yourself in the expansive views of Pyramid
Peak and the vast green pines. The area around the lost resort is
overflowing with natural beauty, wildlife abounds and the sunsets
and snowcaps astound.
Originally a logging camp, the Ross Lake Resort dates back to
the early 1950s and has twelve cabins and three bunkhouses on log
floats adorning the lake. The journey makes the destination that
much more rich and enjoyable. Even before you arrive, you will
have embarked on a ferry ride, truck and/or tractor ride, and a
speedboat cruise.
There is a waitlist for the floating cabins, and the resort is open
June through October.
—Mitch Wiewel
NPS/Astudillo
52 | WINTER 2018
ontrakmag.com

PERCHED AT THE EDGE of the Eagle Cap
Wilderness in Northeast Oregon, Minam
River Lodge was a homestead in 1890 and a
treasured hunting lodge. Here you will have
no choice but to reconnect—with your family,
yourself and nature.
The jagged snowy mountain peaks tower over
you at all angles while pine trees disappear into
the horizon. This is the wilderness resort that
dreams are made of.
Minam River Lodge, which opened to the
public in summer 2017, is not accessible by road
and is open June through October. Arrive by
private charter plane or trek the 8.5 miles into
camp, a visual feast the entire way. The trailhead
is just outside the tiny town of Cove, where
huckleberries grow and you’d swear you might
run into Opie Taylor. The Lodge also arranges
horseback rides for arriving guests. There
are two dedicated gardeners who meticulously
maintain the seasonal harvests and supply the
restaurant. Infatuated with the special location,
almost the entire initial crew of seasonal employees
became full-timers. Chef Carl Krause
has a background in fine dining in Boston, New
York and Portland. He serves exceptional American
craft meals, dubbed “wilderness cuisine.”
At the communal dining table, you might find
wild-foraged morels cooked en papillote with
cultured butter, slow-smoked Carman Ranch
ribeye with Minam chimichurri, or a mountain
blackberry crisp with bourbon creme anglaise.
Venture into the Eagle Cap Wilderness by
horseback, and a wood-fired hot tub will welcome
you back from your outdoor adventures.
It is a rare opportunity to maximize your outdoor
experiences while holding onto all the
creature comforts you desire—all but the ones
with glowing screens, the constant chatter of
news and social media (no cell service here!).
You can stay in a wall-tent or teepee for more
affordable rates. Post up at the wilderness bar,
made of hand-rubbed fir with inlaid steel, grab
one of the signature cocktails infused by local
plants, unwind and let inspiration unfold.
—Mitch Wiewel
Minam River
Lodge—Lostine, OR
Evan Schneider
ontrakmag.com WINTER 2018 | 53

FROM TOP The deck at Paradise Lodge offers a scenic view
of the Rogue River. Wildlife abounds on the Rogue River.
Paradise
Lodge
—Rogue River, OR
SITTING ON THE EDGE of the Rogue
River in the Siskiyou National Forest,
Paradise Lodge is a classic wood-paneled
retreat, the kind any Oregonian has
come to expect to find tucked away in
the woods.
This one is a bit different, though. For
starters, it is accessible by foot, helicopter,
or most notably, jet boat and river
raft and is located just below a famous
class-IV rapid. If you’re hiking in, there
are several outfitters that will bring your
gear by boat while you hike through
along the National Ridge Trail. Hikers can
also access the lodge by driving to Marial
and hiking in about 3.5 miles.
Jerry’s Rogue Jets offers a 104-mile
whitewater trip to an area of the river
accessible only by jet boat, raft or hike.
Jerry’s is the only company allowed to
operate in the area, and then the trip
is topped off with an overnight stop at
Paradise Lodge. There are six cabins with
eighteen total rooms, some with a river
view and many perfect for a large group.
And though it’s off the beaten path,
there’s no skimping on the food (or the
wine, or the microbrews, or the Noble
Coffee, which is locally roasted and delivered
weekly by raft). A general store
on site provides any other snacks you
might need.
Paradise Lodge is open May through
November.
—Sheila G. Miller
54 | WINTER 2018
ontrakmag.com

Mike Henitiuk poses victoriously in the
Blackcomb Whistler backcountry.
BC
EXTREME SKIING

EVERY YEAR, SKIERS and snowboarders
flock to British Columbia
seeking endless powder and untouched
terrain. With thirteen large
ski resorts and dozens of groups
offering heliskiing opportunities,
they rarely leave disappointed. Photographer
Grant Gunderson is there
to capture it all.
56 | WINTER 2018
ontrakmag.com

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT An aerial shot of the Chatter
Creek Landscape. Michelle Parker shows off her
excitement on her way up to Whistler. KC Deane waxing
skis in the motel room. Lynsey Dyer and Josh Daiek get
ready for a helicopter ride to the top.
ontrakmag.com WINTER 2018 | 57

58 | WINTER 2018
ontrakmag.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Victor De le Rue gets
dropped in by the helicopter. KC Deane, Austin Ross and
Nick Heil get ready to hike after being dropped off by the
helicopter. Adam Ü launches off a slope. KC Deane and
Austin Ross trek through the snow.
ontrakmag.com WINTER 2018 | 59

KC Deane, seen here in all photos, dashes through
the snow above the clouds at Revelstoke.
60 | WINTER 2018
ontrakmag.com

ontrakmag.com WINTER 2018 | 61

62 | WINTER 2018
ontrakmag.com

The skiiers all settle in for the
night at Snowwater Lodge.
ontrakmag.com WINTER 2018 | 63

Eat + Stay + Play
Oregon Guide
Sybaris Bistro, Albany, Oregon
EUGENE
Belly Taquería
$$, Mexican
69 FEET FROM STATION
541.683.5896
eatbelly.com
The Bier Stein
$$, American, Pub
0.9 MILE FROM STATION
541.485.2437
thebierstein.com
Marché
$$, French
0.3 MILE FROM STATION
541.342.3612
marcherestaurant.com
McMenamins High Street
Brewery & Café
$$, Brewpub
0.8 MILE FROM STATION
541.345.4905
mcmenamins.com
Oregon Electric Station
$$$, Steakhouse, Italian,
Seafood
374 FEET FROM STATION
541.485.4444
oesrestaurant.com
Sushi Pure
$$, Sushi
0.3 MILE FROM STATION
541.654.0608
sushipureeugene.com
Tacovore
$$, Mexican
0.8 MILE FROM STATION
541.735.3518
tacovorepnw.com
WildCraft Cider Works
$$, New American
0.4 MILE FROM STATION
541.735.3506
wildcraftciderworks.com
ALBANY
Calapooia Brewing
$$, Brewpub
1.4 MILES FROM STATION
541.928.1931
calapooiabrewing.com
Frankie’s Restaurant
$$, American, Steakhouse
1.3 MILES FROM STATION
541.248.3671
frankies-oregon.com
Sybaris Bistro
$$$, New American
0.8 MILE FROM STATION
541.928.8157
sybarisbistro.com
SALEM
Eugene Pavlov
ACME Cafe
$$, American
2.4 MILES FROM STATION
503.798.4736
acmecafe.net
OUR PICK
Bo & Vine
$$, American, Burgers
1.2 MILES FROM STATION
971.301.2585
boandvine.com
Christos Pizzeria & Lounge
$$, Pizza
1.6 MILES FROM STATION
503.371.2892
christospizzasalem.com
Gamberetti’s Italian Restaurant
$$, Italian
0.7 MILE FROM STATION
503.399.7446
gamberettis.com
Wild Pear
$$, Cafe
1.5 MILES FROM STATION
503.378.7515
wildpearcatering.com
Willamette Valley
Vineyards
$$, Winery
Turner
9.2 MILES FROM STATION
503.588.9463
wvv.com
Word of Mouth Bistro
$$, American, Breakfast,
Brunch
0.7 MILES FROM STATION
503.930.4285
wordofsalem.com
OREGON CITY
Adelsheim Vineyard
$$$, Winery
Newberg
29 MILES FROM STATION
503.538.3652
adelsheim.com
ArborBrook Vineyards
$$, Winery
Newberg
29.4 MILES FROM STATION
503.538.0959
arborbrookwines.com
Cana’s Feast Winery
$$, Winery
Carlton
37.3 MILES FROM STATION
503.852.0002
canasfeastwinery.com
R. Stuart & Co. Wine Bar
$$, Wine
McMinnville
38.7 MILES FROM STATION
866.472.8614
rstuartandco.com
PORTLAND
Caffe Mingo
$$, Italian
1.1 MILES FROM STATION
503.226.4646
caffemingonw.com
Chennai Masala
$$, Indian
Hillsboro
12 MILES FROM STATION
503.531.9500
chennaimasala.net
Decarli
$$, Italian
Beaverton
8.6 MILES FROM STATION
503.641.3223
decarlirestaurant.com
Elephant’s Delicatessen
$$, Deli
MULTIPLE LOCATIONS
elephantsdeli.com
Garden Bar
$$, Vegetarian
MULTIPLE LOCATIONS
gardenbarpdx.com
Gloria’s Secret Café
$$, Latin American
Beaverton
8.1 MILES FROM STATION
503.268.2124
Imperial Restaurant
$$, American
0.6 MILE FROM STATION
503.228.7222
imperialpdx.com
Laurelhurst Market
$$$, Steakhouse
2.6 MILES FROM STATION
503.206.3097
laurelhurstmarket.com
Le Bouchon
$$$, French
0.5 MILE FROM STATION
503.248.2193
bouchon-portland.com
Oven and Shaker
$$, Pizza, Italian
0.5 MILE FROM STATION
503.241.1600
ovenandshaker.com
The Palm Court
$$$, American
0.5 MILE FROM STATION
503.228.2000
bensonhotel.com
The Parish
$$, Seafood, Southern
0.5 MILE FROM STATION
503.227.2421
theparishpdx.com
Ruth’s Chris Steak House
$$$, Steakhouse
0.8 MILE FROM STATION
503.221.4518
ruthschris.com
Serratto Restaurant & Bar
$$, Italian, Mediterranean,
Modern European
1 MILE FROM STATION
503.221.1195
serratto.com
Syun Izakaya
$$, Japanese
Hillsboro
16.8 MILES FROM STATION
503.640.3131
syun-izakaya.com
64 | WINTER 2018
ontrakmag.com

Eat + Stay + Play
Guide
EUGENE
Best Western New
Oregon Motel
2 MILES FROM STATION
541.683.3669
book.bestwestern.com
C’est La Vie Inn
1.5 MILES FROM STATION
541.302.3014
cestlavieinn.com
Courtyard Eugene Springfield
4.6 MILES FROM STATION
541.726.2121
marriott.com
Excelsior Inn
1.2 MILES FROM STATION
541.342.6963
excelsiorinn.com
Hilton
0.2 MILES FROM STATION
541.342.2000
hilton.com
Holiday Inn Express
& Suites
3 MILES FROM STATION
541.342.1243
ihg.com
C’est La Vie Inn, Eugene, Oregon
Oval Door Bed &
Breakfast Inn
0.7 MILES FROM STATION
541.683.3160
ovaldoor.com
Phoenix Inn Suites
1 MILE FROM STATION
541.344.0001
phoenixinn.com
Valley River Inn
3 MILES FROM STATION
541.743.1000
valleyriverinn.com
ALBANY
Best Western Plus
Prairie Inn
2.5 MILES FROM STATION
541.928.5050
book.bestwestern.com
Comfort Suites
2.7 MILES FROM STATION
541.928.2053
comfortsuites.com
Phoenix Inn Suites
2.3 MILES FROM STATION
541.926.5696
phoenixinn.com
SALEM
OUR PICK
The Grand Hotel
0.8 MILE FROM STATION
503.540.7800
grandhotelsalem.com
Hampton Inn & Suites
2.4 MILES FROM STATION
503.362.1300
hamptoninn3.hilton.com
Red Lion
2.6 MILES FROM STATION
503.370.7888
redlion.com
OREGON CITY
Best Western Plus
Rivershore Hotel
0.9 MILES FROM STATION
503.655.7141
book.bestwestern.com
Grand Hotel at Bridgeport
Tigard
11.7 MILES FROM STATION
503.968.5757
grandhotelbridgeport.com
Lakeshore Inn
Lake Oswego
6.2 MILES FROM STATION
503.636.9679
thelakeshoreinn.com
PORTLAND
Ace Hotel
0.7 MILES FROM STATION
503.228.2277
acehotel.com
The Benson, a Coast Hotel
0.5 MILE FROM STATION
503.228.2000
coasthotels.com
Caravan: The Tiny
House Hotel
2.3 MILES FROM STATION
503.288.5225
tinyhousehotel.com
Embassy Suites Portland -
Washington Square
Tigard
11.3 MILES FROM STATION
503.644.4400
portlandembassysuites.com
Friendly Bike Guest House
2.1 MILES FROM STATION
503.799.2615
friendlybikeguesthouse.com
OUR PICK
Hotel Eastlund
1.5 MILES FROM STATION
503.235.2100
hoteleastlund.com
Hotel Modera
1.1 MILES FROM STATION
877.484.1084
hotelmodera.com
Inn @ Northrup Station
0.9 MILE FROM STATION
503.224.0543
northrupstation.com
Jupiter Hotel
1.4 MILES FROM STATION
503.230.9200
jupiterhotel.com
McMenamins Edgefield
Troutdale
13.6 MILES FROM STATION
503.669.8610
mcmenamins.com
McMenamins Grand Lodge
Forest Grove
25.4 MILES FROM STATION
503.992.9533
mcmenamins.com
The Nines
0.7 MILE FROM STATION
877.229.9995
thenines.com
Resort at the Mountain
Mt. Hood Village
45.2 MILES FROM STATION
503.622.3101
theresort.com
River’s Edge Hotel & Spa
4.3 MILES FROM STATION
503.802.5800
riversedgehotel.com
Shift Vacation Rentals
3.3 MILES FROM STATION
503.208.2581
shiftvacationrentals.com
Tierra Soul Urban Farm &
Guesthouse
2.3 MILES FROM STATION
503.489.7645
tierrasoulpdx.com
Timberline Lodge
Timberline
62.5 MILES FROM STATION
800.547.1406
timberlinelodge.com
The Westin
0.7 MILE FROM STATION
503.294.9000
westinportland.com
ontrakmag.com Call Statehood Media to get listed in our guides. 541.728.2764
WINTER 2018 | 65

Eat + Stay + Play
EUGENE
Bijou Metro
0.4 MILE FROM STATION
541.686.3229
bijou-cinemas.com
Cascades Raptor Center
5.7 MILES FROM STATION
541.485.1320
eraptors.org
Heritage Dry Goods
0.3 MILE FROM STATION
541.393.6710
heritagedrygoods.com
Hult Center for the
Performing Arts
0.2 MILE FROM STATION
541.682.5087
hultcenter.org
Museum of Natural &
Cultural History
1.7 MILES FROM STATION
541.346.3024
natural-history.uoregon.edu
Michael Durham
Garnish Apparel
0.5 MILE FROM STATION
503.954.2292
garnishapparel.com
McMenamins
Crystal Ballroom
0.8 MILE FROM STATION
503.225.0047
mcmenamins.com
Mt. Hood Meadows
Ski Resort
Mt. Hood
75 MILES FROM STATION
503.337.2222
skihood.com
Oregon Museum of
Science and Industry
1.9 MILES FROM STATION
503.797.4000
omsi.edu
Oregon Zoo
3.4 MILES FROM STATION
503.226.1561
oregonzoo.org
Oakway Center
1.3 MILES FROM STATION
541.485.4711
oakwaycenter.com
Physical Element
0.5 MILE FROM STATION
503.224.5425
physicalelement.com
ALBANY
Albany Antique Mall
0.5 MILE FROM STATION
541.704.0109
albanyantiquemall.com
Gallery Calapooia
0.6 MILE FROM STATION
503.971.5701
gallerycalapooia.com
Oregon Coast Aquarium
Newport
65 MILES FROM STATION
541.867.3474
aquarium.org
SALEM
Cristom Vineyards
11 MILES FROM STATION
503.375.3068
cristomvineyards.com
Evergreen Aviation
& Space Museum
+ Waterpark
McMinnville
24.3 MILES FROM
STATION
503.434.4185
evergreenmuseum.org
66 | WINTER 2018
Gilbert House Children’s
Museum
1.7 MILES FROM STATION
503.371.3631
acgilbert.org
Historic Elsinore Theatre
0.8 MILE FROM STATION
503.375.3574
elsinoretheatre.com
Honeywood Winery
0.4 MILES FROM STATION
honeywoodwinery.com
Minto-Brown Island Park
2.5 MILES FROM STATION
cityofsalem.net/mintobrown-island-park
Oregon State Hospital
Museum of Mental Health
2.1 MILES FROM STATION
971.599.1674
oshmuseum.org
Redhawk Vineyard &
Winery
5.6 MILES FROM STATION
503.362.1596
redhawkwine.com
Riverfront Park
1.2 MILES FROM STATION
cityofsalem.net/riverfront-park
The Rock Boxx
3.3 MILES FROM STATION
503.371.3134
therockboxx.com
Salem Center
1.1 MILES FROM STATION
503.399.9676
salemcenter.com
OREGON CITY
Bridgeport Village
Tigard
11.6 MILES FROM STATION
503.968.1704
bridgeport-village.com
Clackamas Repertory
Theater
3.8 MILES FROM STATION
503.594.6047
clackamasrep.org
Oregon Zoo, Portland, Oregon
End of the Oregon Trail
1.2 MILES FROM STATION
503.657.9336
historicoregoncity.org
PORTLAND
Arlene Schnitzer
Concert Hall
0.9 MILE FROM STATION
503.248.4335
portland5.com
Bella Casa
0.5 MILE FROM STATION
503.222.5337
bellacasa.net
Bonnet
0.5 MILE FROM STATION
503.954.2271
shop.bonnetboutique.com
Boys Fort
0.8 MILE FROM STATION
503.567.1015
boysfort.com
Ellington Handbags
1.4 MILES FROM STATION
503.542.3149
ellingtonhandbags.com
Pittock Mansion
2.8 MILES FROM STATION
503.823.3623
pittockmansion.org
OUR PICK
Portland Art Museum
1 MILE FROM STATION
503.226.2811
portlandartmuseum.org
Rachelle M. Rustic House
of Fashion
0.7 MILE FROM STATION
971.319.6934
rachellem.com
Rice Northwest Museum
of Rocks & Minerals
Hillsboro
17.1 MILES FROM STATION
503.647.2418
ricenorthwestmuseum.org
Twist
1.4 MILES FROM STATION
503.224.0334
twistonline.com
OUR PICK
US Outdoor Store
0.7 MILE FROM STATION
503.223.5937
usoutdoor.com
ontrakmag.com

Eat + Stay + Play
Guide
Washington Guide
TanakaSan
$$, Asian Fusion
1.8 MILES FROM STATION
206.812.8412
tanakasanseattle.com
Westward
$$, Mediterranean,
Breakfast, American
5.8 MILES FROM STATION
206.552.8215
westwardseattle.com
EDMONDS
Rivertop Bar & Grill
$$, American
Wenatchee
133 MILES FROM STATION
509.662.1234
rivertopbargrill.com
The Maltby Café
$$, American, Breakfast,
Coffee
Snohomish
14.5 MILES FROM STATION
425.483.3123
maltbycafe.com
EVERETT
KELSO/LONGVIEW
The Office 842
$$, Coffee, Cocktails, Tapas
1.1 MILES FROM STATION
360.442.4647
theoffice842.com
CENTRALIA
OUR PICK
McMenamins Olympic
Club Pub
$$, Brewpub
0.1 MILE FROM STATION
360.736.5164
mcmenamins.com
OLYMPIA/LACEY
Fish Tale Brew Pub
$$, Brewpub
7.8 MILES FROM STATION
360.943.3650
fishbrewing.com
The Mark
$$, Italian
8.1 MILES FROM STATION
360.754.4414
themarkolympia.com
TACOMA
Asado
$$$, Argentine
4.8 MILES FROM STATION
253.272.7770
asadotacoma.com
Odd Otter Brewery
$, Brewery
2.7 MILES FROM STATION
253.327.1680
oddotterbrewing.com
Pacific Grill
$$, American, Seafood
1.4 MILES FROM STATION
253.627.3535
pacificgrilltacoma.com
TUKWILA
Miyabi Sushi
$$, Japanese
1.4 MILES FROM STATION
206.575.6815
miyabisushi.com
SEATTLE
Assaggio Ristorante
$$$, Italian
1.3 MILES FROM STATION
206.441.1399
assaggioseattle.com
Eastside Bar & Grill
$$, American
Bellevue
11.6 MILES FROM STATION
425.455.9444
coasthotels.com
Frolik Kitchen & Cocktails
$$, American, Breakfast
1.1 MILES FROM STATION
206.971.8015
frolik.motifseattle.com
John Howie Steak
$$$$, American, Steakhouse
Bellevue
10 MILES FROM STATION
425.440.0880
johnhowiesteak.com
Little Water Cantina
$$, Mexican
4 MILES FROM STATION
206.397.4940
littlewatercantina.com
Little Water Cantina, Seattle, Washington
Loulay Kitchen & Bar
$$, French, Breakfast
1.1 MILES FROM STATION
206.402.4588
thechefinthehat.com
Pine Box
$$, Brewpub
1.7 MILES FROM STATION
206.588.0375
pineboxbar.com
Revel
$$, Asian Fusion, Korean
5.9 MILES FROM STATION
206.547.2040
revelseattle.com
Seastar Restaurant
& Raw Bar
$$$, American, Seafood
Bellevue
10.7 MILES FROM STATION
425.456.0010
seastarrestaurant.com
Sharps Roasthouse
$$, American, BBQ
SeaTac
13.1 MILES FROM STATION
206.241.5744
sharpsroasthouse.com
Anthony’s HomePort
$$, Seafood
1726 W. Marine View Drive
2.4 MILES FROM STATION
425.252.3333
anthonys.com
STANWOOD
Stanwood Grill
$$, American
289 FEET FROM STATION
360.629.5253
stanwoodgrill.com
MOUNT VERNON
Skagit River Brewery
$$, Brewpub
0.2 MILE FROM STATION
360.336.2884
skagitbrew.com
BELLINGHAM
Leaf & Ladle
$$, Soup, Sandwiches
3.1 MILES FROM STATION
360.319.9718
facebook.com/leafandladle
ontrakmag.com Call Statehood Media to get listed in our guides. 541.728.2764
WINTER 2018 | 67

Eat + Stay + Play
KELSO/LONGVIEW
Monticello Hotel
2.1 MILES FROM STATION
360.425.9900
themonticello.net
CENTRALIA
Centralia Square Hotel
0.3 MILE FROM STATION
360.807.1212
centraliasquare.com
McMenamins - Olympic
Club Hotel & Theater
0.1 MILE FROM STATION
360.736.5164
mcmenamins.com
OLYMPIA/LACEY
OUR PICK
The Governor, a Coast
Hotel
7.9 MILES FROM STATION
360.352.7700
coasthotels.com
Little Creek Casino Resort
20.6 MILES FROM STATION
800.667.7711
little-creek.com
Red Lion Hotel
8 MILES FROM STATION
360.943.4000
redlion.com
TACOMA
Hotel Murano
1.5 MILES FROM STATION
253.238.8000
hotelmuranotacoma.com
Silver Cloud Inn - Tacoma
Waterfront
3.9 MILES FROM STATION
253.272.1300
silvercloud.com
TUKWILA
Cedarbrook Lodge
SeaTac
4.3 MILES FROM STATION
206.901.9268
cedarbrooklodge.com
Springhill Suites
Renton
1.8 MILES FROM STATION
425.226.4100
marriott.com
SEATTLE
Alexis Hotel
0.8 MILE FROM STATION
206.624.4844
alexishotel.com
Belltown Inn
1.5 MILES FROM STATION
206.529.3700
belltown-inn.com
Coast Bellevue Hotel
Bellevue
11.6 MILES FROM STATION
425.455.9444
coasthotels.com
Coast Gateway Hotel
SeaTac
13.8 MILES FROM STATION
206.248.8200
coasthotels.com
Greenlake Guest House
7.1 MILES FROM STATION
206.729.8700
greenlakeguesthouse.com
Hotel 1000
0.7 MILE FROM STATION
206.957.1000
hotel1000seattle.com
Hotel Monaco
0.8 MILE FROM STATION
206.621.1770
monaco-seattle.com
OUR PICK
Grand Hyatt
Seattle
1.5 MILES FROM STATION
206.774.1234
seattle.grand.hyatt.com
Inn at the Market
1.2 MILES FROM STATION
206.448.0631
innatthemarket.com
The Maxwell Hotel
2.5 MILES FROM STATION
206.286.0629
themaxwellhotel.com
The Moore Hotel
1.3 MILES FROM STATION
206.448.4851
moorehotel.com
The Paramount Hotel
1.3 MILES FROM STATION
206.292.9500
paramounthotelseattle.com
Seattle Sheraton
1.2 MILES FROM STATION
206.621.9000
sheratonseattle.com
Sorrento Hotel
1.1 MILES FROM STATION
206.622.6400
hotelsorrento.com
Inn at Port Gardner
2.4 MILES FROM STATION
425.252.6779
innatportgardner.com
STANWOOD
Cedar Bluff Cottage
5.2 MILES FROM STATION
360.445.3333
cedarbluffcottage.com
Hotel Stanwood
1.4 MILES FROM STATION
360.629.2888
stanwoodhotelsaloon.com
MOUNT VERNON
Best Western Plus Skagit
Valley Inn
1.9 MILES FROM STATION
360.428.5678
book.bestwestern.com
Tulip Inn
1.8 MILES FROM STATION
800.599.5696
tulipinn.net
BELLINGHAM
OUR PICK
The Chrysalis Inn & Spa
0.8 MILE FROM STATION
360.756.1005
thechrysalisinn.com
Fairhaven Village Inn
0.3 MILE FROM STATION
360.733.1311
fairhavenvillageinn.com
Hotel Bellwether
4 MILES FROM STATION
360.392.3100
hotelbellwether.com
EDMONDS
Best Western Plus
Edmonds Harbor Inn
0.2 MILE FROM STATION
425.771.5021
book.bestwestern.com
Coast Wenatchee
Center Hotel
Wenatchee
133 MILES FROM STATION
509.662.1234
coasthotels.com
EVERETT
68 | WINTER 2018
McMenamins Olympic Club Hotel, Centralia, Washington
Holiday Inn Downtown
Everett
0.4 MILE FROM STATION
425.339.2000
ihg.com
ontrakmag.com

Eat + Stay + Play
Guide
VANCOUVER
Kiggins Theatre
0.8 MILE FROM STATION
360.816.0352
kigginstheatre.net
KELSO/LONGVIEW
Cowlitz County Tourism -
Visit Mount St. Helens
360.577.3137
visitmtsthelens.com
Kelso Theater Pub
0.1 MILE FROM STATION
360.414.9451
ktpub.com
CENTRALIA
Centralia Factory Outlets
2.8 MILES FROM STATION
360.736.3327
centraliafactoryoutlet.com
Centralia Fox Theatre
0.2 MILE FROM STATION
360.623.1103
centraliafoxtheatre.com
OLYMPIA/LACEY
Capitol Tours
7.5 MILES FROM STATION
360.902.8880
des.wa.gov
Little Creek Casino Resort
Shelton
20.6 MILES FROM
STATION
800.667.7711
little-creek.com
Rhythm & Rye
7.8 MILES FROM STATION
360.705.0760
facebook.com/rhythmandrye
TACOMA
OUR PICK
LeMay—America’s Car
Museum
0.7 MILE FROM STATION
253.779.8490
americascarmuseum.org
Museum of Glass
0.9 MILE FROM STATION
253.284.4750
museumofglass.org
Point Defiance Zoo &
Aquarium
7.4 MILES FROM STATION
253.591.5337
pdza.org
Tacoma Art Museum
1.2 MILES FROM STATION
253.272.4258
tacomaartmuseum.org
Washington State History
Museum
1.8 MILES FROM STATION
253.272.3500
washingtonhistory.org
TUKWILA
Museum of Flight
5.7 MILES FROM STATION
206.764.5720
museumofflight.org
SEATTLE
Bellevue Arts Museum
Bellevue
10.7 MILES FROM
STATION
425.519.0770
bellevuearts.org
Experience Music Project
Museum
2 MILES FROM STATION
206.770.2700
empmuseum.org
Museum of History and
Industry
2.7 MILES FROM STATION
206.324.1126
mohai.org
Neptune Theatre
4.2 MILES FROM STATION
206.682.1414
stgpresents.org
Northwest Outdoor Center
3.7 MILES FROM STATION
206.281.9694
nwoc.com
Olympic Sculpture Park
2 MILES FROM STATION
206.654.3100
seattleartmuseum.org
Pike Place Market
1.4 MILES FROM STATION
pikeplacemarket.org
Seattle Aquarium
1 MILE FROM STATION
206.386.4300
seattleaquarium.org
Seattle Art Museum
0.8 MILE FROM STATION
206.654.3100
seattleartmuseum.org
OUR PICK
Woodland Park Zoo
5.3 MILES FROM STATION
206.548.2500
zoo.org
Talia Galvin
EDMONDS
Cascadia Art Museum
0.3 MILE FROM STATION
425.336.4809
cascadiaartmuseum.org
Edmonds Center
for the Arts
0.6 MILE FROM STATION
425.275.4485
edmondscenterforthearts.com
Visit Edmonds
0.5 MILE FROM STATION
1.877.775.6935
visitedmonds.com
EVERETT
Future of Flight Aviation
Center & Boeing Tour
Mukilteo
8 MILES FROM STATION
1.800.464.1476
futureofflight.org
XFINITY Arena at Everett
0.5 MILE FROM STATION
425.322.2600
xfinityarenaeverett.com
STANWOOD
Stanwood Cinemas
1.5 MILES FROM STATION
360.629.0514
farawayentertainment.com
MOUNT VERNON
Downtown Mount Vernon
360.336.3801
mountvernondowntown.org
Lincoln Theater
0.3 MILES FROM STATION
360.336.8955
lincolntheatre.org
BELLINGHAM
OUR PICK
Bellingham Railway
Museum
3.1 MILES FROM STATION
360.393.7540
bellinghamrailway
museum.org
The Green Frog
2.8 MILES FROM STATION
888.968.8783
acoustictavern.com
Mount Baker Theatre
3.2 MILES FROM STATION
360.734.6080
mountbakertheatre.com
The Green Frog, Bellingham, Washington
ontrakmag.com Call Statehood Media to get listed in our guides. 541.728.2764
WINTER 2018 | 69

Eat + Stay + Play
Vancouver Guide
The Oakwood Canadian
Bistro
$$, Gastropub, Canadian
5.6 KM FROM STATION
604.558.1965
theoakwood.ca
Octopus’ Garden
$$$, Japanese, Sushi
4.5 KM FROM STATION
604.734.8971
octopusgardensada.com
Opus Bar
$$, Cocktails, Small Plates,
Breakfast
2.2 KM FROM STATION
604.642.2107
opushotel.com
The Salted Vine Kitchen
& Bar
Squamish, B.C.
$$$, Seafood, Canadian (New)
75.2 KM FROM STATION
604.390.1910
saltedvine.ca
Chambar, Vancouver, B.C.
Ema Peters
Salt Tasting Room
$$, Wine, Tapas, Small Plates
1.5 KM FROM STATION
604.633.1912
salttastingroom.com
Ask for Luigi
$$, Italian
1.4 KM FROM STATION
604.428.2544
askforluigi.com
Bao Bei Chinese Brasserie
$$$, Chinese
850 METERS FROM
STATION
604.688.0876
bao-bei.ca
Bluewater Café
$$, Seafood
2.3 KM FROM STATION
604.688.8078
bluewatercafe.net
OUR PICK
Boulevard Kitchen
& Oyster Bar
$$$, Seafood, Steakhouse
2.6 KM FROM STATION
604.642.2900
boulevardvancouver.ca
Café at John Henry’s
$$, American
115 KM FROM STATION
604.883.2336
johnhenrysresortmarina.com
Chambar
$$$, Belgian, Breakfast
1.4 KM FROM STATION
604.879.7119
chambar.com
Cioppino’s Mediterranean
Grill & Enoteca
$$$$, Mediterranean, Italian
2.3 KM FROM STATION
604.688.7466
cioppinosyaletown.com
Cuchillo
$$, Latin American
1.2 KM FROM STATION
604.559.7585
cuchillo.ca
The Diamond
$$, Mexican
1.5 KM FROM STATION
604.568.8272
di6mond.com
Fable Kitchen
$$, Canadian
4.4 KM FROM STATION
604.732.1322
fablekitchen.ca
The Fat Badger
$$, British
3.4 KM FROM STATION
604.336.5577
fatbadger.ca
Fergie’s Café
Squamish, B.C.
$$, Café, Barbeque
87.5 KM FROM STATION
604.898.1537
sunwolf.net
OUR PICK
The Flying Pig
$$, Canadian
Multiple Locations
theflyingpigvan.com
Forty Ninth Parallel Café &
Lucky’s Doughnuts
$, Coffee, Donuts
1.8 KM FROM STATION
604.872.4901
49thparallelroasters.com
luckysdoughnuts.com
Howe Sound Brew Pub
Squamish, B.C.
$$, Gastropub, Brewery
75.5 KM FROM STATION
604.892.2603
howesound.com
Jules
$$, French
1.7 KM FROM STATION
604.669.0033
julesbistro.ca
The Keefer Bar
$$$, Cocktails, Asian Small
Plates
850 METERS FROM
STATION
604.688.1961
thekeeferbar.com
Kintaro Ramen
$, Asian
3.8 KM FROM STATION
604.682.7568
Kirin
$$, Seafood, Dim Sum
Multiple locations
kirinrestaurants.com
L’Abattoir
$$$, French, Canadian
1.4 KM FROM STATION
604.568.1701
labattoir.ca
Lighthouse Pub
$$, Gastropub
70.1 KM FROM STATION
604.885.9494
lighthousepub.ca
Marutama Ramen
$$, Asian
3.6 KM FROM STATION
604.688.8837
marutamaramen.com
Molly’s Reach
$$, American, Seafood
47 KM FROM STATION
604.886.9710
mollysreach.ca
Novo Pizzeria & Wine Bar
$$, Italian, Wine
4 KM FROM STATION
604.736.2220
novopizzeria.com
Sal y Limon
$, Mexican
2.4 KM FROM STATION
604.677.4247
salylimon.ca
Savary Island Pie Company
$$, Bakery, Coffee
10.6 KM FROM STATION
604.926.4021
savaryislandpiecompany.com
Wildebeest
$$$, Gastropub, Canadian
1.5 KM FROM STATION
604.687.6880
wildebeest.ca
Yaletown Brewing Co.
$$, Brewpub
2.1 KM FROM STATION
604.681.2739
mjg.ca
70 | WINTER 2018
ontrakmag.com

Eat + Stay + Play
Guide
OUR PICK
Auberge Vancouver Hotel
2.6 KM FROM STATION
604.678.8899
aubergevancouver.com
Barclay House
3.5 KM FROM STATION
604.605.1351
barclayhouse.com
Bee & Thistle Guest House
3.3 KM FROM STATION
604.669.0715
beeandthistle.ca
The Burrard
2.9 KM FROM STATION
604.681.2331
theburrard.com
Coast Coal Harbour Hotel
2.7 KM FROM STATION
604.697.0202
coasthotels.com
Coast Plaza Hotel & Suites
4.2 KM FROM STATION
604.688.7711
coasthotels.com
Coast Vancouver
Airport Hotel
9.3 KM FROM STATION
604.263.1555
coasthotels.com
English Bay Inn
5 KM FROM STATION
604.683.8002
englishbayinn.com
Executive Hotel LeSoleil
2.2 KM FROM STATION
604.632.3000
hotellesoleil.com
Executive Hotel
Vintage Park
2.9 KM FROM STATION
1.800.570.3932
executivehotels.net
Fairmont Chateau
Whistler
124 KM FROM STATION
604.938.8000
fairmont.com
Georgian Court Hotel
1.5 KM FROM STATION
604.682.5555
georgiancourthotel
vancouver.com
Granville House B&B
6.3 KM FROM STATION
604.739.9002
granvillebb.com
Granville Island Hotel
4.4 KM FROM STATION
604.683.7373
granvilleislandhotel.com
Hotel at the Waldorf
3.1 KM FROM STATION
604.253.7141
hotelatthewaldorf.ca
Hotel Blue Horizon
2.9 KM FROM STATION
604.688.1411
bluehorizonhotel.com
Howe Sound Inn
Squamish, B.C.
75.5 KM FROM STATION
604.892.2603
howesound.com
The Kingston Hotel
2.1 KM FROM STATION
604.684.9024
kingstonhotelvancouver.com
The Landis Hotel & Suites
3 KM FROM STATION
604.681.3555
landissuitesvancouver.com
L’Hermitage Hotel
2 KM FROM STATION
778.327.4100
lhermitagevancouver.com
The Listel Hotel
3.1 KM FROM STATION
604.684.7092
thelistelhotel.com
Loden Hotel
3.4 KM FROM STATION
877.225.6336
theloden.com
Moon Dance Vacation
Rentals
107 KM FROM STATION
604.841.5805
moondance.travel
OPUS Vancouver
2.2 KM FROM STATION
604.642.6787
opushotel.com
The Painted Boat Resort
Spa & Marina
101 KM FROM STATION
604.883.2456
paintedboat.com
Patricia Hotel
1.2 KM FROM STATION
604.255.4301
patriciahotel.ca
Pinnacle Hotel Vanoucver
Harbourfront
3.1 KM FROM STATION
604.689.9211
pinnacleharbourfronthotel.com
The Riviera on Robson
Suites Hotel
3.2 KM FROM STATION
604.685.1301
rivieravancouver.com
Rosewood Hotel Georgia
2.1 KM FROM STATION
604.682.5566
rosewoodhotels.com
St. Clair Hotel - Hostel
1.8 KM FROM STATION
604.648.3713
stclairvancouver.com
Summit Lodge
& Spa Whistler
Whistler
132 KM FROM STATION
604.932.2778
summitlodge.com
OUR PICK
Sunwolf Resort
Squamish, B.C.
87.5 KM FROM STATION
604.898.1537
sunwolf.net
The Sylvia Hotel
4.3 KM FROM STATION
604.681.9321
sylviahotel.com
Victorian Hotel
1.7 KM FROM STATION
604.681.6369
victorianhotel.ca
Wedgewood Hotel & Spa
2.4 KM FROM STATION
604.689.7777
wedgewoodhotel.com
Victorian Hotel, Vancouver, B.C.
ontrakmag.com Call Statehood Media to get listed in our guides. 541.728.2764
WINTER 2018 | 71

Eat + Stay + Play
Bau-Xi Gallery
Contemporary Fine Art
4.3 KM FROM STATION
604.733.7011
bau-xi.com
Beaty Biodiversity Museum
14.2 KM FROM STATION
604.827.4955
beatymuseum.ubc.ca
Bloedel Floral Conservatory
5.9 KM FROM STATION
604.257.8584
vancouver.ca
Britannia Mine Museum
Squamish, B.C.
63 KM FROM STATION
1.604.896.2233
britanniaminemuseum.com
Capilano Suspension
Bridge Park
10.7 KM FROM STATION
604.985.7474
capbridge.com
Craigdarroch Castle
Victoria
115 KM FROM STATION
250.592.5323
thecastle.ca
OUR PICK
Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical
Chinese Garden
1.2 KM FROM STATION
604.662.3207
vancouverchinesegarden.com
Granville Island
4.1 KM FROM STATION
604.666.6655
granvilleisland.com
Greater Vancouver Zoo
53.3 KM FROM STATION
604.856.6825
gvzoo.com
Grotto Spa at Tigh-Na-Mara
Parksville
111 KM FROM STATION
250.248.1838
grottospa.com
H.R. MacMillan Space
Centre
4.9 KM FROM STATION
604.738.7827
spacecentre.ca
Museum of Vancouver
4.8 KM FROM STATION
604.736.4431
museumofvancouver.ca
The Orpheum
2.8 KM FROM STATION
604.665.3050
vancouver.ca
Craigdarroch Castle, Victoria, B.C.
Peak 2 Peak Gondola
Whistler
124 KM FROM STATION
1.888.403.4727
whistlerblackcomb.com
Pirate Adventures
4.1 KM FROM STATION
604.754.7535
pirateadventures.ca
Queen Elizabeth Theatre
1.6 KM FROM STATION
604.665.3050
vancouver.ca
River Rock Casino Resort
Richmond
12.2 KM FROM STATION
877.473.8900
riverrock.com
Robson Street
2.8 KM FROM STATION
604.669.8132
robsonstreet.ca
Rockwood Adventures
7.4 KM FROM STATION
604.913.1621
rockwoodadventures.com
Rogers Arena
2 KM FROM STATION
604.899.7400
rogersarena.com
Rope Runner Aerial Park
Squamish, B.C.
65.1 KM FROM STATION
1.604.892.4623
roperunnerpark.com
Science World at TELUS
World of Science
400 METERS FROM
STATION
604.443.7440
scienceworld.ca
Skookumchuck Narrows
Provincial Park
129 KM FROM STATION
604.885.3714
env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks
Trout Country Fishing
Guides
Squamish, B.C.
70 KM FROM STATION
1.888.363.2233
fishwhistler.com
Vancouver Art Gallery
2.3 KM FROM STATION
604.662.4700
vanartgallery.bc.ca
OUR PICK
Vancouver Aquarium
6.3 KM FROM STATION
604.659.3474
vanaqua.org
Vancouver Maritime
Museum
4.8 KM FROM STATION
604.257.8300
vancouvermaritime
museum.com
West Coast Railway
Heritage Park
Squamish, B.C.
68.1 KM FROM STATION
604.898.9336
wcra.org
Whistler Blackcomb
Whistler
124 KM FROM STATION
1.800.766.0449
whistlerblackcomb.com
72 | WINTER 2018
ontrakmag.com

CAN YOU
BELIEVE
WHAT YOU
READ?
Sources: 2016 Survey, Pew Research Center; GfK MRI, Spring 2016.
MAGAZINE
MEDIA
Better. Believe It.
With fake news leaving most Americans
confused about even the basic facts,
magazine media keeps it real. Whether in
print, online, on mobile or video, people
trust it to be expertly researched, written
and fact-checked. No wonder magazine
readers are more engaged and more likely
to recommend advertised products.
Being real matters. That’s a fact.
#BelieveMagMedia | BelieveMagMedia.com

EXP
SURE
Photo Contest
Taking in Portland’s Union Station
while waiting to take the train to
Seattle for dinner with my wife.
PHOTO BY RICHARD HALL
Send us a photo that represents
your experience of the Pacific
Northwest for a chance to be
published here.
Submit your photo to
ontrakmag.com/exposure
74 | WINTER 2018
ontrakmag.com

VANCOUVER, BC
AMTRAK CASCADES STOPS
Vancouver, BC
Bellingham
Mount Vernon
Stanwood
History of the
Space Needle
page 42
Everett
Edmonds
Seattle
Tukwila
Tacoma
Olympia/Lacey
Centralia
Kelso/Longview
Portland
Salem
Vancouver, WA
Oregon City
Grace Rivera
Albany
Han Oak’s
Peter Cho
page 22
Eugene
Ron Cooper
Spend a weekend
in Salem
page 38
76 | WINTER 2018
ontrakmag.com

SEATTLE
TACOMA
OLYMPIA
ontrakmag.com WINTER 2018 | 77

PORTLAND
SALEM
EUGENE
78 | WINTER 2018
ontrakmag.com

Bring your bike on the train
We know how much you love bicycling—it’s just part of the Pacific Northwest
culture. That’s why we’ve made it easy for you to take your bike along on your next
trip aboard Amtrak Cascades. Travel in Oregon, Washington and British Columbia is
made all the more enjoyable when you combine trains and bikes for the ultimate in
eco-friendly transportation.
1. MAKE A RESERVATION FOR YOU AND YOUR BIKE
You’ll need to book space for both you and your bike by going online to:
AmtrakCascades.com, visiting a staffed station, or calling 1-800-USA-RAIL.
2. RACK YOUR BIKE
Ten bike racks are available on every Amtrak Cascades train. Bike racks, located in
the baggage car, must be reserved for a cost of $5 each. Book early to ensure bike
space is available and you get the best fare for your own ticket. This is particularly
important during busy summer months when trains fill up quickly.
3. BOX YOUR BIKE
If you don’t make advance reservations, you may find the bike rack space is all
sold out. If that’s the case, you can opt to box your bike (except at unstaffed
stations)* for an additional $15/box plus a $10 handling fee. You’re responsible for
disassembling and reassembling your bike. Remember to bring your tools along.
*Unstaffed stations: Kelso/Longview, Mt. Vernon, Olympia/Lacey, Oregon City,
Stanwood and Tukwila
Looking for a great
place to ride?
All of the Amtrak Cascades
eighteen station stops offer
nearby bike routes that
allow you to explore the
area. Many follow old rail
corridors, so you can further
intertwine your train and bike
adventures. Check out more
bike trips along the corridor at
amtrakcascades.com.
Vancouver, BC
The Stanley Park Seawall is
one of the best rides you’ll find
in Vancouver proper.
Seattle
The Emerald City is a great
starting point for bike
adventures such as the 19-
mile Burke-Gilman Trail, which
dissects the city’s diverse
neighborhoods.
Tacoma
The Ruston waterfront and
Point Defiance Park offer a
wonderful place to spend an
afternoon of bicycling.
Portland
One of the nation’s top bike
cities, Portland is the gateway
to several scenic bike trips,
including the Tualatin Valley
trail that offers a 50-mile
route through the northern
Willamette Valley.
Albany
Tackle all or part of the
gorgeous 132-mile Willamette
Valley Scenic Bikeway that
meanders through vineyards,
hop farms and quaint towns.
ontrakmag.com WINTER 2018 | 79

Parting Shot
FOLKLORE HAT COMPANY
PORTLAND, OR
Inside the NE Portland studio of hatter John Fish of Folklore Hat Company.
PHOTO BY IZZY MAX
80 | WINTER 2018
ontrakmag.com

WITH THOMAS RHETT
& OLD DOMINION
AUGUST 25, 2018