1889 August | September 2018

farm to table
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT
A Jones Family Farms
worker tends to the boat.
Waiting for the fish.
Hauling in a reefnet.
Honoring Tradition
About 35 miles north of Seattle, Tulalip Resort Casino’s
Blackfish is well-known for its signature preparation of the
heritage salmon (AKA salmon on a stick). “It is based upon
a time-honored and proven tribal technique for cooking
salmon on sticks over alderwood coals,” chef David Buchanan
explained. “We leave the skin on the salmon and use ironwood
sticks to skewer the fillets—running the sticks tightly between
skin and flesh.” After the fish has been seasoned, the sticks are
angled over the coals.
According to Buchanan, this slow-roasting method draws out
the fish’s natural oils and lends a hint of smokiness to the flavor.
Blackfish always serves wild salmon (never farmed), sourced
primarily from Alaska and Washington.
“The salmon on a stick preparation both reflects and
maintains a portion of tribal history,” Buchanan said. “There
is so much more here than just a piece of fish for dinner. It is
about tradition, respect for Mother Earth, thankfulness and
sharing with friends and family. A tribal member finds the
ironwood locally by foraging for it in the wild. It is actually cut
from oceanspray, which is indigenous to our area. A prayer of
thankfulness is offered to the plant before harvesting only what
is needed. He then hand-carves each stick.”
Similarly, an annual celebration honors the salmon for
providing sustenance and expresses gratitude for those who
have harvested and prepared it. As part of tribal tradition, any
salmon that falls from the sticks can’t be served. Instead, this
piece of fish gets offered to ancestors by “feeding the fire.” “All
these things are important to the culture of the tribe, and we
have the opportunity to keep a portion of this culture alive
every day,” Buchanan said.
Home Prep
Valencia said his favorite way to prepare salmon is “smoked,
low and slow.” “Buy fresh!” he advised. “And don’t be afraid of
three things. One—season generously with kosher salt. Pepper
the salmon after it is cooked so the pepper does not scorch during
the cooking process. Two—heat your pan before you cook the
fish, giving it a better sear. Three—eat it pink in the center.”
There’s no denying that salmon from this region has made a
name for itself—and for very good reason. “I think what makes
it delicious is that it is a part of the Seattle culture, and, when
I think of [salmon], I cannot separate the city from the fish,”
Valencia said.
AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2018 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 25