1889 August | September 2018

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RESIDENTS AND VISITORS NEED ONLY STEP FOOT INTO BUSTLING PIKE PLACE MARKET TO EXPERIENCE THE LOCAL FOOD SCENE WITH ALL THEIR SENSES. Matthew Mornick ABOVE Pike Place Market visitors look at pepper wreaths and garlands. SAVORING LOCAL FLAVORS Residents and visitors need only step foot into bustling Pike Place Market to experience the local food scene with all their senses. The market formed in 1907 when Seattle citizens became outraged at a ten-fold price increase in onions—as a result, farmers started selling their products on a vacant wooden roadway. Today the much-expanded Pike Place remains one of the oldest continuously operating markets in the country. Outside the city, foodies enjoy meandering along the Olympic Culinary Loop, a tasty trail showing off the Olympic Peninsula’s diverse microclimates, coastal proximity and Native American heritage. In Wenatchee, the Stemilt Growers Retail Store lets visitors sample the bounty of one of the state’s premier apple, pear and cherry growers. In every season, events honor the state’s most celebrated products, ranging from the Hama Hama OysterRama, held each spring in Lilliwaup, to the Dungeness Crab & Seafood Festival, held each fall in Port Angeles. URBAN FARMING In downtown Seattle, restaurants like Urbane pride themselves on using local ingredients and purveyors. Since opening its doors, Urbane has counted Tonnemaker Farms of Royal City, just east of Ellensburg, as part of the family. It’s clear that chef Brian Pusztai couldn’t agree more with the eatery’s philosophy. “For me,” he said, “I’ve always felt sourcing locally is the right thing to do. You’re working with the flavors of the Pacific Northwest that haven’t had to travel far, meaning they are the freshest they can possibly be. I also take interest in knowing exactly where my food is coming from.” Pusztai loves working with local, fresh seafood, especially Penn Cove mussels and the Taylor Shellfish shigoku oysters. “My family and I often make the visit to Taylor Shellfish’s Chuckanut farm in Samish Bay, right outside of Bellingham,” he said. “I also really enjoy working with geoduck because it is such a unique ingredient to the Pacific Northwest that tastes delicious. Oh, and we can’t forget 54 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2018
DIGGING DEEP WITH LOCAL FARMERS FROM TOP Planting time at Helsing Junction Farms. Tonnemaker Farms works with Urbane in Seattle. Mussels are a Washington specialty. ANNA SALAFSKY & SUSAN UJCIC HELSING JUNCTION FARMS Anna Salafsky and Susan Ujcic, who began Helsing Junction Farms in 1992, remain deeply committed to organic farming and their community. Located 20 miles south of Olympia in Rochester, on the Chehalis River, the farm sells most of its produce through a Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) program, but it also hosts weddings, an annual music festival and farm-to-table experiences in a lovely event space. The farm grows more than 150 varieties of organic vegetables, fruit, flowers and herbs. “We’ve been farming together for over twenty-five years,” Ujcic said, “so we bring a lot of experience to the table, but we also love trying new things. We focus on the health of our soil, so everything we grow tastes and looks its best.” Both have strong design backgrounds and a deep love of food—once they began farming, they were hooked. “Working with the earth and feeding people is deeply rewarding; we really enjoy sharing the farm with our community,” Ujcic said. TODD VAN MERSBERGEN HMV BERRIES Todd Van Mersbergen’s family farms 200 acres north of Lynden, about 1 mile south of the Canadian border, where they’ve been working since the early 1900s. “You could say I was born to farm,” Van Mersbergen, who has been directly involved for the last twenty years, said. “ I am the fourth generation to farm here in Lynden, and many generations before that were involved in agriculture in Holland. We started as dairy farmers and diversified into raspberries in 1995 and into blueberries in 2006. It’s great to be your own boss and really see the rewards from your planning and labor during harvest.” Today the Van Mersbergens farm about 100 acres each of red raspberries and blueberries. “The cool maritime climate and long days during the growing season make Whatcom County an ideal place to grow blueberries,” Van Mersbergen said. “Couple that with rich, well-drained soil, and it’s no wonder we can get the most tonnage per acre and highest sugar content in our berries.” “The best part about farming is taking my wife and kids out to the field and driving down the rows, being able to be outside with them and watch the plants go through their phases,” he said. “The farm is a great place to learn about life. That’s the other part I love—the seasonal nature of farming, and getting to work with the environment and the weather. No two days are ever the same.” GARY LARSEN LARSEN FARMS, INC. Located just north of Pasco, this family farm has fantastic views of Juniper Dunes. The Larsens have been here since the early ’60s, when they broke the ground out of sagebrush and bunchgrass, and the only roads were two-track trails used by sheepherders. Larsen’s family is one of the seventy remaining asparagus farmers in the state. “In ’85 when we started with asparagus, there were 32,000 acres of it in the state, and now there are 4,400 acres,” he said. He credits an abundance of good quality water, rich soils and changing seasons for making Washington “the premier state for growing asparagus.” He praises the region’s rich volcanic soils and the fact that asparagus here go dormant in the winter, allowing nutrients and carbohydrates to move to the crowns (roots) for sweet crops the following year. The most rewarding part of his job? “Seeing the success and breaking some of the traditional ways of growing asparagus,” Larsen said. “Also, seeing people come back year after year to buy our crops and saying, ‘We have tried other asparagus and none compare to the sweetness and quality of yours.’” AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2018 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 55
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TRIP PLANNER: LEAVENWORTH PG. 80 Th
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Garden Path Fermentation co-founder
Page 6: FEATURES AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2018
Page 9 and 10: SCAPE It’s closer than you think.
Page 11 and 12: EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR CREATIVE MAR
Page 13 and 14: 1889 ONLINE More ways to connect wi
Page 15 and 16: 1002 W Riverside, Spokane WA Spokan
Page 17 and 18: say wa? Olympia Harbor Days The Oly
Page 19 and 20: OCTOBER 11-14, 2018 CHANGE HAPPENS
Page 21 and 22: say wa? AIMEE TRUDEAU, Emily Nielso
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Page 25 and 26: food + drink BEST PLACES FOR CRÊPE
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Page 29 and 30: Meet the Locals Whether you’re a
Page 31 and 32: home + design Benjamin Benschneider
Page 33 and 34: Ed Sozinho AUGUST | SEPTEMBER 2018
Page 35 and 36: home + design Go Bold with Artsy Go
Page 37 and 38: mind + body So, not your average 20
Page 39 and 40: artist in residence Linda Miller Ni
Page 41 and 42: artist in residence “I finally fo
Page 44 and 45: startup The Leftovers WISErg seeks
Page 46 and 47: what’s going up? The Spheres, Ama
Page 48 and 49: what i’m working on Washingtonian
Page 50 and 51: my workspace Martin Ramos, ranch ma
Page 52 and 53: game changer Hooked on Sustainabili
Page 54 and 55: LOCAL LOVE WASHINGTON’S FOOD SCEN
Page 58 and 59: cooking with washington's best food
Page 60 and 61: Fermenting Wilderness EXPLORING THE
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Page 64 and 65: acid-producing bacteria. Conversely
Page 66: FLOWER POWER photography by Kathery
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Page 84 and 85: trip planner Icicle TV Dzhan Wiley
Page 86 and 87: northwest destination California Re
Page 88 and 89: 1889 MAPPED The points of interest
Page 90 and 91: Until Next Time More Than Just Coff
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1889 August | September 2018

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