RunwayAW20

W H E N T W O
BECOME ONE
The On|Off show at London Fashion Week is a hotbed for fresh new design talent, who work with
L’Oréal Professionnel hairstylists to create a complete look. When creatives collaborate, great things happen…
ZAFUL AND
DARREN FOWLER
AT FOWLER35
HOUSE OF SHELDON HALL AND
JACK MERRICK-THIRLWAY
AT NEVILLE HAIR & BEAUTY
YAN DENGYU AND
JONNY ENGSTROM
AT GUY KREMER
ZAFUL AND Darren Fowler have
partnered on shows before and the teams’
work highlights the importance of
long-lasting relationships. “The creative
process was great – we have a synergy and
always connect well when building the
moodboards and the creation of models’
personas for the collection,” says Darren.
Renowned for creating characters for
editorial shoots and runways shows, Darren
is an expert on the importance of showing
and telling the story behind a collection.
“More designers are starting to appreciate
what designing the hair properly will do for
both the collection and the show,” he adds.
“Collaboration is paramount and
reputation is everything. The end result
being spot-on is key.”
JACK AND the Neville Hair & Beauty
team have a history of couture work where
they mastered the up-do – so they were a
great match for UK couture brand Sheldon
Hall. “The designers had a clear direction
of what they wanted from the show with a
strong eye for detail. It makes my job much
easier when everyone is on the same creative
path,” explains Jack. Though based in
different areas of England, Jack and Sheldon
Hall kept in touch regularly. “As it’s not
always possible to sit down with the
designers face-to-face and have a hair test,
trust is always a massive factor from both
sides,” he says. “We decided to make the
hair quite regal but with a modern twist.
We knew the accentuated high ponies
would work well with the patriotic dresses.”
A GREAT working relationship between
Yan Dengyu and Jonny Engstrom began at
On|Off S/S20 and has continued this season.
“Yan Dengyu is an amazing designer; he is
a very creative, forward-thinking and gentle
person. Before the show we discuss ideas
and it takes the stress out of hair trials,”
says Jonny. With a theme of ‘future couture’
for the hair, together they decided on a
slicked-back hair look with height at the
crown. “When you are a hairstylist working
on runway shows, you have to realise the
designer already has a concept, and you
have to build on that to make the complete
image,” he adds. “You have to listen and
have new ideas to deliver each time. The
hair is one main part of the collection and
it can make or break the show.”
42 AUTUMN/WINTER 2020
RUNWAY