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Building with earth - Gernot MINKE (1)

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12 Weather protection of loam surfaces

Loam surfaces need not always have additives

in to be made weather-resistant. It is

often sufficient to protect or harden them

with plaster or paint. This chapter describes

the different ways loam surfaces can be

made more resistant to environmental

forces, and the structural measures required

to shelter them from these forces.

Consolidating the surface

The simplest method of hardening the surface,

especially against rain and wind erosion,

is to consolidate it. This can be done

by rubbing a metal trowel with high pressure

onto the surface when it is moist and

slightly pliable. Traditional Indian and African

methods employ flat but light convex stones

that are rubbed in a circular motion across

the surface with great force. The treatment

is adequate if the surface appears shiny and

no pores or cracks are visible. While this

leaves the composition of the material unaltered,

it nonetheless creates a surprisingly

high degree of weather resistance.

Paints

Paints on exposed loam surfaces have to

be renewed periodically. The paint can be

physically eroded by wind, frost or rain, or

chemically eroded by ultraviolet radiation or

acid rain. External paints should be simultaneously

water-repellent and, especially for

cold climates, porous, i.e., should contain

a coherent net of micro-pores that allow

vapour diffusion to the outside. Latex and

dispersion paints, therefore, are not recommended.

For information supplementing that contained

in this chapter, see Wehle (1985).

Preparation of ground

If the ground is very silty and lime-based

paints are used, the surface should be

primed with thin lime-casein milk and then

rubbed. The primer can be made of two

parts of hydraulic lime, one part fat-free

white cheese and 15 parts water.

Recommended paint mixtures

Pure lime wash

The lime wash mixture has to be very thin,

allowing the paint to penetrate deeply

enough into the ground so that flaking does

not occur during drying. Therefore, three or

even four thin coats are recommended, with

the first coat being the thinnest. The mix can

be made from 50 kg hydraulic lime dissolved

in 60 litres of water. It is often preferable

to add 1 to 2 kg of kitchen salt; being

hygroscopic, the salt allows the mixture to

remain moist longer, thereby ensuring better

curing of the lime. Pure lime wash is perfectly

white when dry, but can be toned

down by adding clay or loam powders or

other lime-proof earthen pigments. Pure

lime wash is not wipe-resistant.

98

Weather protection

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