BeautyNZ Magazine Autumn 2024

Sun SENSE
Different chemical sunscreens work
in different wavelengths, so some are
effective with one type of UV rays and not
another. As therapists and professionals,
we need to understand different
ingredients and where they work.
Most chemical sunscreens contain
avobenzone, which covers only higher
UVB rays. However it also covers all
the UVA rays, so for broad spectrum
protection it will be combined with
oxybenzone or perhaps Octinoxate.
There is a plethora of other chemicals
to brush up your knowledge around, so
if your clinic offers chemical sunscreens
without zinc, you need to know
whether they are also giving broad
spectrum protection.
If we look at physical sunscreens, there
are just two: titanium dioxide and zinc
oxide. Titanium will cover all UVB, UV2
and a short amount of UVA1. The only
full broad spectrum sunscreen ingredient
is zinc oxide. This covers the entire
spectrum, so is always going to give you
the best protection. It is my personal
option always.
All that aside, we still should have
antioxidants in sunscreens. These
work as a secondary filter, blocking any
potential holes in the sunscreen and
giving added protection.
Education is the key, educate your
customers on the difference between
a chemical sunscreen which work on
absorption of the UV rays changing
the light into heat, whereas a physical
sunscreen sits on the surface of the skin
and reflects and scatters the rays away
from the skin.
Educate your customers on the what the
SPF means. SPF is your personal sun
protection factor. So, if you were to go
out into the sun without protect how long
would it be before you could feel the heat
in your skin? For Fitzpatrick types 1-2 it
would be 5-7 mins, for Fitz 3-4 10-20, Fitz
5-6 longer is a general guideline. Once
you know this score then the protection
factor is number of minutes x the SPF
rating = your protection. This is where the
real education starts because it does not
matter how many minutes you have the
maximum protection you will get from
the UV rays is 120mintues. So, our clients
need to be reapplying every 2 hours
regardless. If they have been in the water
they need to reapply, if they have been
sweating after a run they need to reapply.
Some common mistake people make
with their sunscreen are keeping it for
too long and not being aware of which
sunscreen will work best with their skin
type and lifestyle.
Sunscreen should be used within 12
months of opening as a standard rule, but
check the manufacturers guidelines just
to be sure. A good service to offer your
clients who have purchased sunscreen
from your business is to remind them via
text when it is due to be renewed.
With sunscreen needing to be applied
every couple of hours (at least), many
clients won’t want to have to reapply over
make-up, etc. This is where a mineral
powder foundation or a mineral powder
sunscreen is useful, as it can be reapplied
without disrupting make-up.
Please always remind your clients, friends
and family that sunscreen should be part
of their daily routine. Even though we
don’t get burnt in winter, the rays are still
present. We also now know that there
is a fourth ray damaging our skin: HEV
(High Energy Visible light). This comes
from phones, computers, televisions and
artificial light and can cause deep dermal
damage to skin.
For those who enjoy winter sports like
skiing, particularly if taking place at
higher altitudes, remember your skin will
need additional protection, so it’s extra
important to reapply sunscreen every
two hours. Hint: Carry a mineral powder
so you don’t need to keep taking off
your gloves.
When it comes to storing sunscreen,
don’t leave it sitting for weeks (or
months) inside your hot vehicle. Ideally
it needs to be stored under 30°C. If
you’re going to the beach, keep it in your
chilly bin, and if you’re in the car, keep it
in a chilly bag.
Here’s to keeping ourselves and our
customers educated around being
sun safe, knowing how to choose the
correct sunscreens for their individual
needs, and the correct way to store
their sunscreens. We can all play a role
in hopefully bringing down the rate of
melanoma in New Zealand.
By
Kim Ryan
Passionate about skin,
knowledge and training, Kim
Ryan is a trained nurse and
beauty therapist who founded
Advanced Derma Care. She
is also an executive board
member of the New Zealand
Registered Beauty Therapy
Association (including two
terms as President).