Intimo più mare n° 199 - Marzo 2015

ENGLISH TRANSLATION
plained Marco Marchi, vice-president and Head of Style for Liu Jo.
“Together with the designers of the collection, Francesca strives
to explore and explain inspirations, themes and seasonal attitudes
which can then be translated into the design of the garments in the
capsule release. When it comes to the actual design process, the
production of figurines and models is the task of the style office,
but Francesca continually oversees the process of creating the garments,
trying to provide worthwhile product suggestions, following
every step of the process in order to help the designers translate
as accurately as possible her passion and personality into the collection.
The collections are sold in a number of Liu Jo single-label
retail outlets as well as selected multi-label stores. They are not sold
in sporting goods stores as such because we are not talking about
an activewear or technical line in the strictest sense of the terms,
but rather stylish leisurewear”.
These are just some of the most outstanding examples of beneficial,
highly rewarding collaborative efforts between the world of
sport and the clothing industry.
Colours Raise the Tone
Colour is a key feature for brands who are trying to create the look
and it is also becoming an essential characteristic for specialists.
Triumph continues to use a classic colour scheme (mainly black
and white) but breaks the monotony with coloured edges. Anita
notes a growing significance for the need to use colours, to such
an extent that their permanent range, which is "never out of stock,"
includes colourful sports bras. Basic tones are also dominant and
colour now represents 20% of sales. "Nowadays, sportswomen are
not willing to make anymore compromises. They want to feel attractive
and capable, and want to rely more than 100% on their
equipment", comments Katrin Prillwitz. Similarly, Freya multiplies
its colour offerings, whether that be touches of colour or an all over
shade. "The more we play around with strong colours, the better it
works", observes Evelyne Piegay. While basic colours (black and
nude, white is considered by the brand to be an awkward sports
colour) continue to dominate sales, colour raises the tone. They represent
30% of sports sales. At Berlei, the collections firstly played
around with contrasting colours on the lining or selective detailing.
The items were still based on black and white (which still represent
70% of sales). But now, we can find red, coral, mauve, violet and
nude at Berlei. "We have even launched an animal print", adds
Elise Recour, French export manager. Panache has the same approach
to introducing colours seasonally: the brand offers a new
fashion colour and a new print each season; but these colours are
only introduced for a limited time.
Distribution: Lingerie Has A Real Card to Play!
"The distribution of sports bras is quite complex", announces Elise
Recour (Berlei and Gossard). According to her, sales assistants in
specialist sports shops are often men; so dialogue is both embarrassing
for them and for the consumer. Departments stores have
little to offer. As a result, consumers do not know where to turn and
look for information and purchase on the Internet. Sales through
this channel represent 40% of the total sports sales for Berlei. In
2010, Triumph, as well as sales through retailers and mail order,
established a partnership with Go Sport in France, to be at the
heart of sport. Currently, the brand's sports bras are distributed to
120 Go Sport points of sale (compared to 45 in 2011).
In fact, ideally, all brands emphasise it: lingerie multi brands would
be most suitable for women, as this is where they can find competent
sales assistants, real advice and corsetry items. Besides we
must bear in mind the advice from the La Parisienne race coach
with regards to the number of tests conducted in real time... she
recommends that amateur runners choose lingerie brands and not
sports bran
Zoom On The French Running Woman
We took statistics from 5,971 race tracks in 2013 in France and 57
marathons (of which the majority, exactly 66%, welcome between
100 and 500 participants) (1) . Women are increasingly present at
these events:
• 3.4 million French women practice running; that is 1.4 million
more than in 2013
• 42% have been running for less than 2 years and 73% started to
run before 30 years of age
• Reason for motivation: 87% of French women believe that running
gives them a better ability to reflect
• Young people (21 to 25 years old) only represent 9% of women
who run La Parisienne. 22% of them are between 26 and 30 years
old, 17% are between 31 and 35 years old and 17% between 36
and 40 years old
• Women who run La Parisienne are on average a 90B
• Running is a personal challenge: 73% of women who participate
in La Parisienne generally run alone
(Sources: Le baromètre du running, Kantar media, March 2014
Study carried out by La Parisienne in 2012)
BRITTA RUNS
“My brand britta uschkamp lingerie, design & phantasies started
out in 2007 with a lingerie collection, best known for the conceptual,
interactive use of ribbons" says Britta. "In 2014 I decided to
use the word beribboned to communicate this idea more easily.
Just for fun, in 2008, I participated in a high-heels race. In 2012 I
took part in my first official race (La Parisienne). This year I will run
my first marathon (in Paris). I like to train with my Nike+ and NTC
apps as well as the Nike (@nikestmichelrunners) and Adidas (@
boostlesabbesses) runclubs in Paris. The human body that influences
my lingerie-collection is a free body. It is a body that prefers
sports more than plastic surgery, shapewear and corsets. I wanted
to combine this idea with my running activity and make a clear visual
statement. The first time I chose a beribboned outfit for a race
was at the Ekiden in November 2014. My team all dressed up with
tulle-skirts I had made for a lingerie-show. The first time I refined
this look with a beribboned bra to match the tulle-skirt was at the
Corrida de Noel in December 2014. For 2015 I will decline this outfit
in many colours, fitting the theme of each race I participate in.
A beribboned runner is a runner whose running practice
is a mix of fun, freedom, ambition and community-spirit.
A beribboned runner is a runner who costumizes their runningoutfits
with scissors and ribbons to best fit their body and mood”.
EXHIBITIONS on page 160
CURVE NY/ CURVE NV
A RELIABLE SUCCESS
The East Coast buyer numbers held their own at the New York
fair, despite record snows and arctic temperatures
Buyer attendance figures are remaining stable for the two fairs held
in the United States by Curvexpo: CurveNV Las Vegas for the West
Coast; and CurveNV New York for the East Coast, with some 2,000
buyers in attendance at the former and 2,700 at the latter. These
two fairs (with their summer and winter sessions) represent the
must-see trade show event for the American buyers in the lingerie,
underwear, beachwear and hosiery sectors, with some 150 brands
in Las Vegas and fully 350 showing in New York. Indeed, among
the registered fairgoers one finds all the major buyers from department
stores, specialized boutiques and online stores. The new
website featuring direct connections with the exhibitor managed
to generate over 700 appointments, demonstrating that this fair is
really about doing business rather than just looking and chatting.
Despite the blizzard the evening before the opening and record low
temperatures, the general mood at CurveNV New York was sunny
and bright, quite optimistic and positive. The exhibitors were able
to connect with potential new customers and received plenty of
orders. A high level of satisfaction was also expressed by the Italian
companies on hand, i.e. Perofil, with their brand by the same
name, Ermenegildo Zegna and Luna di Seta, Maglificio Po with