Intimo più mare n° 199 - Marzo 2015

ENGLISH TRANSLATION
The drop in buyers at the recent edition of the Salon International
de la Lingerie was inevitable. Despite the complex situation due to a
number of contributing factors (the economic crisis and the threat
of terrorism being the most important ones) pavilion 1 of the Paris
Expo-Porte de Versailles facility nevertheless saw a good number
of visitors in attendance during the three days of the trade show.
They included quality buyers and decision makers interested in
the collections of hosiery, lingerie and underwear for the autumnwinter
season of 2015/16. The drop was most conspicuous among
the French, Italian and English retailers, but the Salon International
de la Lingerie registered a greater number of buyers from Spanish,
Danish and Greek boutiques. One should also mention the
increase in buyers represent e-commerce sties, up fully 10% over
what one saw in 2014.
Given the very difficult economic situation, they expected a drop
in Russian buyers which, indeed, was the case (- 40%). A smaller
drop was posted for the contingent of buyers from Ukraine. The
Russian buyers, however, did show up in droves in their native and
at the Moscow Mode Lingerie and Swim and in Paris in July for
Mode City.
When it comes to the countries beyond the borders of Europe one
say an increase in the number of buyers from the Middle East (+
9%, in particular Lebanon and Kuwait) and a significant increase
in buyers from Australia, North America (in particular the United
States) and from South Africa.
This was clearly a positive result for such an unpropitious economic
context. One was pleased to note among the buyers a series of
new lingerie boutiques and large international department stores,
such as Alsterhaus, Oberpollinger - Karstadt Premium, Kadewe,
Karstadt Bahnhofplatz-Karstadt Warenhaus, Karstadt Warenhaus,
Groupe Galeria Kaufhof - Carsch Haus (Germany), Brown Thomas
& Co and Arnotts (Ireland), Isetan Mitsukoshi, Hankyu Hanshin
Department Stores, Iwatatamitsukoshi Department Store, Ito
Yokado, Takashimaya Yokohama, Barneys Japan (Japan), Harrods,
John Lewis, Fenwick, Selfridges and Bentalls (the United Kingdom),
Globus, Jelmoli, Grieder Bon Genie, Brunschwig Group and
Brunschwig & Cie S.A (Switzerland), Vroom & Dreesmann and De
Bijenkorf (Holland), El Corte Inglés (Spain), El Palacio De Hierro
and Servicios Liverpool (Mexico), Galeries Lafayette, Printemps
and Le Bon Marche (France), Gruppo Coin and La Rinascente
(Italy), Harvey Nichols (United Arab Emirates), La Maison Simons
- Quebec (Canada), Magasin Du Nord (Denmark), Sok Chain Management
(Finland), Steen & Strom (Norway), Mercury Distribution
- Tsum (Russia), Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom (the United
States), Pyrenees Distribucio (Andorra), Saks Kazakhstan (Kazakhstan)
and The New Mashbir Lazarchan (Israel).
More specifically, the list of the top ten buyers contingents in attendance
say first place taken by France, followed by Italy, Germany,
the United Kingdom, Spain, Belgium, Switzerland, the United
States, Holland and Japan. Great success for the spaces devoted
to two specific segments, hosiery and men’s underwear. Beautiful
Legs brought together over 18 brands specialized in hosiery and a
fashion show of beautiful legs, always very crowded. For their part
the exhibitors were on the whole satisfied with the participation of
the buyers and the way the fair managed to showcase their products.
Men’s products were once again the protagonists in the new
Super Heroes space, featuring a more complete selection of 22
brands, up considerably from the 12 in 2014, an initiative that was
presented right in the center of the fair.
Fairgoers also expressed kudos for Trends Market, the new trend
area at the fair. It’s a new didactic space and comes closer to meeting
the expectations and needs of the retailers. There was also a lot
of interest in the window display coaching service which attracted
a lot of retailers, eager to learn more. The indisputable fact that
workshops and training are indispensable for achieving better sales
and more effectively operating a shop was amply demonstrated by
the high attendance figures for the various conferences.
Fairgoers also thronged the fashion shows, indispensable opportunities
for the buyers, allowing them to view the collections actually
worn by real people. The collection of lingerie in silk and Calais lace
by Marjolaine, the brand which won the Creator of the Year award,
was the featured protagonist of the fashion show grand finale, The
Selection, featuring the selections of the fair team. This big Parisian
fair provided buyers and exhibitors an opportunity to discuss the
wisdom of Eurovet’s decision to confirm the July dates for Mode
City, while the other fashion fairs have decided to return to the beginning
of September. The July dates, right at the same time as
the beginning of the summer-end sales and coming at the peak of
the sales period for beachwear, left many a buyer very perplexed,
industry members who had already failed to show up at Mode City
in 2014.
INTERFILIÈRE
AN INTERNATIONAL CLEARING HOUSE
Increases in the number of exhibitors at the French fair featuring
complements for the under- and beachwear industries
The most recent edition of Interfilière, the 30 th , to be precise, was
able to boast fully 171 exhibitors (up a whopping 13% compared
with the January edition of 2014) who were pleased with the good
attendance on the part of the buyers, 3% for the manufacturers
of under- and beachwear (stable in 2014 compared with 2013)
and a drop of 5% for the specialized chain operations. When it
comes to the buyers’ countries of origin, among those with growing
contingents we find Spain, Poland and Colombia, while drops were
posted for South Korea, Japan and Hong Kong.
The list of the top ten in terms of buyer attendance was headed by
France, followed by Italy, the United Kingdom, Germany, Spain,
USA, Poland, Holland, Belgium and Japan. As in the case of the
Salon de la Lingerie, also the fair devoted to fabrics and complements
for the intimate apparel and beachwear industry suffered
due to problems associated with the national and international
situation, but the most important manufacturers of the sector were
nevertheless on hand, although with reduced staffs.
The trends, which started over the course of the last two years, is
by now well established. Nevertheless, the fair this January saw the
arrival for the first time of some really big names, like Lululemon
Athletica, Mansoon, Nike and Uniqlo.
The buyers proceeded to seek out the most interesting new products,
the innovations and breakthroughs that make it possible to
come up with creative collections that are exciting and different,
composed of products boasting a high level of added value. This
was confirmed by the comments made by Olivier Noyon (Noyon
Dentelles). “The customers are very busy, checking out everything”,
he said. "They are on the lookout for interesting new solutions.
Everyone tries to find something that will enable them to
render their collection more attractive, beguiling and exceptional,
different from the run of the mill”. The same opinion more or less
was expressed by Liebaert. “The customers want to see everything”,
commented Joan Bebronne. “And they need time to study
the innovative products and breakthroughs that may allow them to
distinguish their collections from the others”.
After lace and embroidery, it was silk that triumphed in The Exception
space, devoted to innovation and technological breakthroughs.
It is under the able direction of Daniel Henry, a specialist in finishing
processes and treatments. Here they presented a number of
new prototypes.
The Trend Forum was presented this session with a whole new format
that was very well received by the creative people, especially
by the designers.