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You roll yourself out of the restaurant grateful that
your next activity involves si ing and amble southeast
to the Chicago River for the Chicago Architecture
Foundation’s boat tour (5). Cruising down the waterway,
you’ll get a who’s who of great architects—Mies van der
Rohe, Daniel Burnham and Charles B. Atwood, to name
a few—who masterminded career-defi ning structures
to make their mark on the city. The volunteer guides,
mostly practicing or retired architects, also spin the
fascinating tale of how the city fathers rebuilt very
deliberately a er the Second Industrial Revolution–
era fi re, creating parks and beachfront all around the
bustling downtown.
Ninety minutes later, you step off the boat with a
great appreciation for the city’s past. Ready to learn
about its present, you make a quick stop at the Chicago
Cultural Center (6). Regulars come here for the
expertly roasted Intelligentsia coff ee and WiFi, but
stick around for the rotating art exhibits, mostly the
work of local artists.
Check into the Elysian Hotel (7), a posh, almost
unmarked villa set back from the street to make you
feel as if you’re escaping the city for a night. Take a
few minutes to explore your massive room and soak
in the view from the balcony. The roo ops below are
planted with grass to absorb rainwater and provide
insulation. The foliage ripples slightly, making for an
urban landscape like none you’ve ever seen. But you
JUNE 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
THREE PERFECT DAYS
CHICAGO
CHI-CHI This page,
the lobby of The James
Hotel; below, roasted
caulifl ower at Girl &
the Goat; opposite, the
menu at Moto