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THE WORLD || Food & Drink asociados.” (Only three percent of Spain’s groves grow organic olives, but the small amount accounts for an astounding 25 percent of organic olive groves worldwide.) Then de Baeza recruited renowned Bordeaux-trained oenologist Michel Rolland as a blending consultant, and creative genius Philippe Starck to design the packaging. Third-generation olive oil expert Maximiliano Arteaga is one of the “noses” responsible for LA Organic’s blend. His creation has hints of apple and almond from the sweet arbequina olive, and it bears a likeness to avocado in the fruity, slightly bi er hojiblanca—both of which are mixed into LA Organic’s product. As though leading a wine tasting, Arteaga explains the subtle undertones of each olive, some of which are too nuanced for the novice palate. Similarities to wine making don’t end there. De Baeza and Starck have set their sights on agro-tourism. “We’ll design an almazara,” says de Baeza, a traditional mill–cum–visitor center that off ers tastings and background information about olive oil production and the history of Andalusia, where the rocky soil provides prime conditions to produce 80 percent of Spain’s olive oil. Standing on his terrace, de Baeza surveys the motley crop of wild olive trees scattered across the sloping landscape. “If I can contribute in a very small way to the view that Spain produces incredible olive oil while making people aware of this beautiful place…” He trails off. So far, so good. 38 JUNE <strong>2011</strong> • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM Sea, Food Once the dark, damp home of Barcelona’s fi shermen, Barceloneta is the center of a fresh fi sh revolution YOU WOULD BE HARD-PRESSED to fi nd fresher seafood anywhere in Barcelona than in the tiny port neighborhood of Barceloneta. Bordered by a beach and a marina, this once dingy burg a racts everyone from glamorati to sun-soaked local families. But the real reason to go is the food. Ignore the prefab frozen-seafood paella joints on the waterfront and head to one of the eight restaurants that form Barceloneta Cuina, an association of restaurateurs and chefs who have vowed to defend this proud neighborhood’s cuisine. Having pledged to use only the freshest ingredients, including seafood caught by local fi shermen, BC aims to revive traditional recipes of forgo en dishes and to educate the public. Restaurant Can Solé, one of the oldest neighborhood establishments, has reintroduced zarzuela, traditionally prepared for bourgeois WHITE HOT Look in the refrigerator case for the next big rioja. While most of the world quaff s red rioja, Spaniards have been gleefully sipping the white version for generations. Now, it’s going global: In 2007 the Rioja Regulatory Council BEACH DAY Top, Barceloneta in the foreground; inset, zamburiña from Kaiku allowed the planting of white varietals for the fi rst time since 1925, so get your ice buckets ready. When the new riojas hit shelves, they’ll have gotten a fl avor face-lift of sorts. As a result of new technology and shorter aging times, the modern style is fresh and fruity. Harder-to-fi nd traditional whites have complex notes PHOTOGRAPH BY MEDIABAKERY (HARBOR), COURTESY OF RICARD GINER I SARIOLA (FOOD), COURTESY OF LA ORGANIC
theatergoers a er the opera. Served in a cast-iron skillet, the dish is brimming with fresh gambas (shrimp), mussels, squid and monkfish bathed in a fragrant, garlicky broth. The movement that has vowed to reinvigorate tradition still has room for innovation, however. At Kaiku, which sits on the tip of the peninsula ju ing out into the sea, chef Hug Pla Cortés uses local seafood that he personally selects from the commercial fi sh market across the street to create dishes like zamburiña, baby scallops sprinkled with sea salt and drizzled with Cortés’ own patent-pending elixir of ginger, lime, olive oil and black pepper. “I love to see people enjoying real Barceloneta food,” Cortés says of his customers’ reactions to the zamburiña. “Sometimes they cry.” of marzipan and nutmeg owing to aging process that sometimes takes as long as a decade. Cervantes Institute wine expert Helio San Miguel prefers the traditional white riojas like López de Heredia Vina Tondonia but also recommends moderns including Cune Monopole, Vivanco and Palacios Remondo La Montesa. The Ultimate Steak Experience! Gene & Georgetti geneandgeorgetti.com CHICAGO, IL 312.527.3718 PROPRIETORS: Tony & Marion Durpetti St. Elmo Steak House stelmos.com INDIANAPOLIS, IN 317.635.0636 PROPRIETORS: Steve Huse & Craig Huse III Forks iiiforks.com DALLAS, TX 972.267.1776 PROPRIETOR: Chris Vogeli AUSTIN, TX 512.474.1776 PROPRIETORS: Danny Payne & Jamie Gutierrez Manny’s mannyssteakhouse.com MINNEAPOLIS, MN 612.339.9900 PROPRIETORS: Phil Roberts, Peter Mihajlov & Kevin Kuester Grill 225 grill225.com CHARLESTON, SC 843.266.4222 PROPRIETOR: Nick Palassis EXECUTIVE CHEF: Demetre Castanas GreatSteakofNA.com Benjamin Steak House benjaminsteakhouse.com NEW YORK, NY 212.297.9177 PROPRIETOR: Benjamin Prelvukaj CHEF: Arturo McLeod McKendrick’s Steak House mckendricks.com ATLANTA, GA 770.512.8888 PROPRIETORS: Claudia & Doug McKendrick, Rick Crowe Malone’s malonesrestaurant.com LEXINGTON, KY 859.335.6500 PROPRIETORS: Brian McCarty & Bruce Drake Metropolitan Grill themetropolitangrill.com SEATTLE, WA 206.624.3287 PROPRIETOR: Ron Cohn INDEPENDENTLY OWNED AND OPERATED RingSide Steakhouse RingSideSteakhouse.com PORTLAND, OR 503.223.1513 PROPRIETORS: Jan, Scott & Craig Peterson
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88 Above, Tee U.S. lands a kick aga
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THE LIZARD KING BY GRANT STODDARD
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