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94<br />

“When I showed up, I was like, ‘Man, you got a bigger<br />

problem than lizard poop,’” says Cera as we careen along<br />

golf cart tracks that run alongside the road. “There were<br />

hardly any fl owers, no birds were singing, a total lack of<br />

young gopher tortoises, fewer anoles than you’d expect,<br />

and almost every snake I came across was all tore up.”<br />

Here’s why: Ctenosaurs are the jocks of the iguana<br />

world. Not only do they hold the Guinness World Record<br />

for being the planet’s fastest lizard—having been<br />

clocked at 21.7 mph—they’re also more physically robust,<br />

omnivorous, cold resistant and aggressive than your green<br />

pet store iguana. While last year’s uncharacteristically<br />

frigid Floridian winter depleted many invasive reptiles,<br />

the burrowing black spiny-tail rode out the cold snap and<br />

seems intent on staying.<br />

A er quickly assessing the extent of the problem, Cera<br />

“ THEY CAN<br />

RECOGNIZE ME,”<br />

HE SAYS OF THE<br />

IGUANAS. SO HE<br />

CHANGES CLOTHES<br />

THREE TIMES A DAY.<br />

JUNE <strong>2011</strong> • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM<br />

CONTROL FREAK • GEORGE CERA LEADS THE WAY THROUGH DUNES AND FINDS DOZENS OF LIZARD LAIRS<br />

put in a bid of $20 per head, beating out around nine other<br />

trappers. An initially unpopular and protested “iguana<br />

tax” was set at between $40 and $70 per every $1 million in<br />

home value. With at least a quarter million dollars hiding<br />

out in the brush, Cera soon found a place to stay on the<br />

island and went to work.<br />

“If this was two or three years ago, we’d have seen<br />

around 50 large adults by now,” says Cera as he scans<br />

some of the iguanas’ favorite haunts. “There are still a lot<br />

of lizards out there, but I think that individuals who have<br />

reproduced are the ones who have that gene for being<br />

leery, and they’ve passed that gene on to their young.”<br />

In addition to being a trapper, Cera is also an amateur<br />

scientist, brimming with theories about evolution, the<br />

Earth’s age and, most colorfully, the cognitive abilities of<br />

his cold-blooded nemeses.<br />

“They can recognize me,” he says, collecting another<br />

kill from beneath some palm fronds. Lunch is becoming<br />

more substantial.<br />

Cera is so confi dent that these iguanas have the<br />

capacity to recognize individual humans that he has<br />

changed clothing during hunts to lull them into a false<br />

sense of security. Another, more easily verifi able trick<br />

he plays on the ctenosaurs is casting a fi shing line into<br />

the undergrowth, using a rubber frog as a lure.<br />

“I reel in that frog along the ground and a few of ’em will<br />

chase it,” he says. “You can count on them being hungry and<br />

aggressive pre y much all of the time.”<br />

At the peak of his operations, Cera was culling up to<br />

500 iguanas per day. The work was starting to take its toll.<br />

“At the beginning it was diffi cult to deal with what I was<br />

doing,” he says. “See, I’m really just a big animal nerd.”<br />

Cera does not look like a nerd of any kind. He looks,<br />

well, like a tough-guy biker—bullish, with a wiry goatee<br />

and shaved head. At his core, he’s always been an animal<br />

lover—who loves to eat wild game.

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