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june-2011

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY ROB COX (PREVIOUS) AND NARCISO CONTRERAS (THIS PAGE)<br />

FIGHT NIGHT Previous page, Tee U.S. in blue trunks;<br />

this page, a bout in Bangkok’s Nonthaburi district<br />

and the fans are pouring into Bangkok’s Rajadamnern<br />

Stadium. The venue’s concrete exterior is adorned with<br />

bright red and yellow banners and oversize portraits of<br />

tonight’s title fighters blowing in the breeze above the<br />

entryway. Keeping a careful watch of it all, wearing a blackand-gold<br />

sport shirt set off by a diamond-encrusted Rolex, is<br />

Songchai Ratanasuban. Unfl appable and fl eshy, he’s reputed<br />

to be the most successful muay Thai promoter in Bangkok,<br />

operating with a fl a ering and unwieldy nickname: “Golden<br />

Hand, Diamond Brain.” He sits at a folding table between a<br />

couple of food vendors, munching fruit spiked with sugar<br />

and chili, and slugging down a one-shot energy drink.<br />

This is his show.<br />

The time closes in on 6:30 p.m., and tonight’s fi rst fi ght, the<br />

one for the championship, is poised to begin. The contenders<br />

are the 22-year-old favorite Ki i Phromlert—nicknamed Tee<br />

U.S.—and a younger, shorter, thicker fi ghter named Phra Chan<br />

Chai. They step into the center of the ring. As is muay Thai<br />

tradition, a three-piece band situated at the front of the stands<br />

kicks up a rollicking song with throbbing drums and hypnotic<br />

horn lines played from an Asian-style clarinet called a pi chawa.<br />

Tee U.S. and his opponent unspool a swirling traditional<br />

prefight dance, with rolling arms and twisting torsos, as a<br />

thanks to their trainers and supporters.<br />

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JUNE <strong>2011</strong><br />

87

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