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Declaration This study represents the original work of the author. Where use has been made of the work of other authors and sources, it has been acknowledged accordingly and referenced in the body of this study. The research for this study was completed in the School of Development Studies at the University of KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa. Opinions expressed and conclusions attained are those of the author and are not necessarily to be attributed to the School of Development Studies. Renato Palmi School of Development Studies University of KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa PO Box 52006 Berea Road 4007, Durban, South Africa Telephone: + 031 -2616096 E-mail: yakshack@iafrica.com 2
Acknowledgements • To my wife, Judith King, for her belief in me and her invaluable interest in this study, through many hours spent in debating its component issues, contributing to the collection of resources for its completion and for editing its various component texts. Thank you for your patience. • To Professor Vishnu Padayachee of the School of Development Studies, for mentoring me in the pursuit of these studies. • To Caroline Skinner, for her keen interest in my work and constructive guidance through a long process of critical evaluation and academic reflection. • To all the respondents and the many other individuals in the clothing industry who supported and encouraged this study and gave of their time, knowledge and energy in recounting their experiences. I hope that this research will contribute to the highest ideals of South Africa’s fashion designers and give weight to their vital role in the flourishing of the local clothing and textile industries. Renato Palmi February 2007 3
Page 4 and 5: Abstract A fundamental change in th
Page 6 and 7: 8.10 Comments on the Clothing Indus
Page 8 and 9: CHAPTER ONE Introduction A Sicilian
Page 10 and 11: esearch on the global clothing and
Page 12 and 13: 2.2 The Global Industry - post-2005
Page 14 and 15: they are starting to go back home,
Page 16 and 17: Fashion is acknowledged as a vital
Page 18 and 19: fashion designers cope with these u
Page 20 and 21: natural fibres: wool and cotton; ot
Page 22 and 23: By the 1950s, Durban was the specia
Page 24 and 25: Lu Jean Clothing, closed its operat
Page 26 and 27: Due to South Africa being a middle-
Page 28 and 29: pivotal role in sustaining and deve
Page 30 and 31: This table shows that there are far
Page 32 and 33: Late in 2004, SACTWU reported that
Page 34 and 35: Basic Conditions of Employment Act
Page 36 and 37: environments, the erratic payment o
Page 38 and 39: A feature that is advantageous to C
Page 40 and 41: (Mokopanele, 2006). Deputy Minister
Page 42 and 43: Figure Three Profits before tax R m
Page 44 and 45: Further import figures collaborate
Page 46 and 47: share the space, none showed any in
Page 48 and 49: CHAPTER FIVE The South African Fash
Page 50 and 51: eiterated the need for local manufa
Page 52 and 53:
women owners of the South African l
Page 54 and 55:
5.4 China’s entry into high-end f
Page 56 and 57:
6.1 Introducing the Value Chain CHA
Page 58 and 59:
developed. Apparel operations can u
Page 60 and 61:
“ripple effects back into manufac
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Rogerson endorses this view thus: T
Page 64 and 65:
in their designs. Embellishment als
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een very little formal research on
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The owner of a new retail outlet in
Page 70 and 71:
critical resource for profiling Dur
Page 72 and 73:
8.1 Introducing the Designers CHAPT
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In addition, they have not embraced
Page 76 and 77:
from international magazines and ev
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Peter Bosman (Interview: 3/7/06) Bo
Page 80 and 81:
Another critical success factor is
Page 82 and 83:
with fabric, and colour co-ordinati
Page 84 and 85:
dictated by the buyers. This behavi
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to protect their own business inter
Page 88 and 89:
clothing designs, and questions how
Page 90 and 91:
manufactured off-shore and resellin
Page 92 and 93:
Iqbal (Interview, 18/7/06) was outr
Page 94 and 95:
These events run concurrently betwe
Page 96 and 97:
support from buyers for retail outl
Page 98 and 99:
formulate collective approaches to
Page 100 and 101:
can advertise their latest designs
Page 102 and 103:
due to their ability to manufacture
Page 104 and 105:
and textile suppliers need to focus
Page 106 and 107:
With regard to suppliers and the ma
Page 108 and 109:
divisive environment prevails in th
Page 110 and 111:
9.2 Suppliers Policy Recommendation
Page 112 and 113:
9.5 Cluster Initiatives The cluster
Page 114 and 115:
would also create business opportun
Page 116 and 117:
shackled to either the large retail
Page 118 and 119:
Appendix One Letter by the research
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endorsement by economic giants such
Page 122 and 123:
Primary Interviews with Designers S
Page 124 and 125:
"There should also be more engageme
Page 126 and 127:
References Ascol, Nina. 2004. The G
Page 128 and 129:
Fakude, Gordon. 2000. ‘Informalis
Page 130 and 131:
Naidu, Sanusha. 2005. ‘South Afri
Page 132 and 133:
Vlok, Etienne. 2006. ‘The Textile
Page 134 and 135:
Robbins, Tom. 2006. ‘SA fashion d
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