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developed. Apparel operations can upgrade in three ways: process, product, and functional upgrading (Kaplinsky and Morris 2001:39). Process upgrading involves improving the production line to deliver more effectively at a cheaper price. Through product upgrading, the company can enhance quality or offer higher-end products. Functional upgrading involves redrafting the company’s business strategy to move from manufacturing only, to design, branding and marketing. These are the core elements on which South Africa’s independent fashion designers should concentrate in order to increase their market profile in South Africa. Within the context of functional upgrading, e-business (Moodly, 2002) has been seen as a useful tool, but restrictions within South Africa for using this mechanism within the value chain is constrained by the high cost of the internet and the poor functionality of lines for Internet usage. According to Gereffi et al (2001), there is another aspect that lends itself to upgrading: the creation of networks. This involves companies seeking out new customers with brand recognition and proven market value, and which in turn provides some surety for better financial returns for the manufacturing industries. Governance provides a parameter in which the various players linked into a value chain need to confer and co-operate in establishing a basis of uniform understanding, so as to comply with prescribed ethical standards including those pertaining to labour regulation. 6.3 Buyer-Driven Value Chain Changes in the global clothing industry and the way retailers stock their stores have impacted strongly on clothing manufacturers, forcing them to adapt their entire operations as they strive to keep abreast with mutating realities and norms. Today, the retail level of the value chain functions on “just-in-time” buying in response to demands by consumers for new styles. According to McCormick and Schmitz (2002), retailers retain low stocks and demand rapid turnaround on production orders. These authors claim that the clothing industry has evolved to the point where there are multi-seasonal, short-run designs appearing in the retail outlets. 58
Figure Four A distinct opportunity for the revival of the South African clothing and textile industry lies in being able to align with developments in the fashion market and restructuring the entire value chain to meet these demands. This concept of a leaner retailing strategy conducts 59
Page 2 and 3:
Declaration This study represents t
Page 4 and 5:
Abstract A fundamental change in th
Page 6 and 7:
8.10 Comments on the Clothing Indus
Page 8 and 9: CHAPTER ONE Introduction A Sicilian
Page 10 and 11: esearch on the global clothing and
Page 12 and 13: 2.2 The Global Industry - post-2005
Page 14 and 15: they are starting to go back home,
Page 16 and 17: Fashion is acknowledged as a vital
Page 18 and 19: fashion designers cope with these u
Page 20 and 21: natural fibres: wool and cotton; ot
Page 22 and 23: By the 1950s, Durban was the specia
Page 24 and 25: Lu Jean Clothing, closed its operat
Page 26 and 27: Due to South Africa being a middle-
Page 28 and 29: pivotal role in sustaining and deve
Page 30 and 31: This table shows that there are far
Page 32 and 33: Late in 2004, SACTWU reported that
Page 34 and 35: Basic Conditions of Employment Act
Page 36 and 37: environments, the erratic payment o
Page 38 and 39: A feature that is advantageous to C
Page 40 and 41: (Mokopanele, 2006). Deputy Minister
Page 42 and 43: Figure Three Profits before tax R m
Page 44 and 45: Further import figures collaborate
Page 46 and 47: share the space, none showed any in
Page 48 and 49: CHAPTER FIVE The South African Fash
Page 50 and 51: eiterated the need for local manufa
Page 52 and 53: women owners of the South African l
Page 54 and 55: 5.4 China’s entry into high-end f
Page 56 and 57: 6.1 Introducing the Value Chain CHA
Page 60 and 61: “ripple effects back into manufac
Page 62 and 63: Rogerson endorses this view thus: T
Page 64 and 65: in their designs. Embellishment als
Page 66 and 67: een very little formal research on
Page 68 and 69: The owner of a new retail outlet in
Page 70 and 71: critical resource for profiling Dur
Page 72 and 73: 8.1 Introducing the Designers CHAPT
Page 74 and 75: In addition, they have not embraced
Page 76 and 77: from international magazines and ev
Page 78 and 79: Peter Bosman (Interview: 3/7/06) Bo
Page 80 and 81: Another critical success factor is
Page 82 and 83: with fabric, and colour co-ordinati
Page 84 and 85: dictated by the buyers. This behavi
Page 86 and 87: to protect their own business inter
Page 88 and 89: clothing designs, and questions how
Page 90 and 91: manufactured off-shore and resellin
Page 92 and 93: Iqbal (Interview, 18/7/06) was outr
Page 94 and 95: These events run concurrently betwe
Page 96 and 97: support from buyers for retail outl
Page 98 and 99: formulate collective approaches to
Page 100 and 101: can advertise their latest designs
Page 102 and 103: due to their ability to manufacture
Page 104 and 105: and textile suppliers need to focus
Page 106 and 107: With regard to suppliers and the ma
Page 108 and 109:
divisive environment prevails in th
Page 110 and 111:
9.2 Suppliers Policy Recommendation
Page 112 and 113:
9.5 Cluster Initiatives The cluster
Page 114 and 115:
would also create business opportun
Page 116 and 117:
shackled to either the large retail
Page 118 and 119:
Appendix One Letter by the research
Page 120 and 121:
endorsement by economic giants such
Page 122 and 123:
Primary Interviews with Designers S
Page 124 and 125:
"There should also be more engageme
Page 126 and 127:
References Ascol, Nina. 2004. The G
Page 128 and 129:
Fakude, Gordon. 2000. ‘Informalis
Page 130 and 131:
Naidu, Sanusha. 2005. ‘South Afri
Page 132 and 133:
Vlok, Etienne. 2006. ‘The Textile
Page 134 and 135:
Robbins, Tom. 2006. ‘SA fashion d
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