View full report - Fibre2fashion

Most of the designers produce two lines of garments, one being haute couture or high-end
fashion for private clients, as this allows for personal branding within specialised markets
and earning higher incomes, with clients being willing and able to pay premium prices for
bespoke garments. Their other line is ready-to-wear clothing, for sale either in their own
boutiques or through independent fashion stores. Ready-to-wear items are made in
accordance with the demands of the broader market and fashion trends, and it is this line
that generates brand awareness of their label to a wider consumer group. Furthermore, it
is this line of garment production that ensures their success and sustainability, and
facilitates the growth of the clothing and textile industries in South Africa.
All of the designers interviewed confirmed that the process of turning a design idea into a
sellable commodity is lengthily. The first step is the creation of an idea. This can originate
from a brief or from the designer’s own research, artistic creativity or being in tuned with
future trends and demands by consumers. The designers take into consideration various
elements at this stage of production. What is the target market, the design details of the
fabric, the qualities of the fabric and availability of the fabric. Thereafter they do a cost
analysis to identify the cost involved in producing a new line of garments as well as the
final retail price. During the entire manufacturing process, quality control is maintained at
every step to ensure that every garment produced after the prototype is consistent.
During the entire process, the fabric is ironed to shape and finish the garment. The designer
then decides on the kind of stitching and threads to be used as well as the type and
density of embellishments. When the garment is finished, it is ironed once more before it is
labelled, priced and packaged.
Six of the designers have their own boutiques and three are currently exporting stock. Four
have their own mini-factories. One of these three, in addition to manufacturing his own
products, produces for other designer brands. Most of the respondents supply a number of
private boutiques, but none said they supply to the major retail clothing chain-stores.
All of the designers said that it was extremely difficult to get access to credit when they
started their business as the banks did not see their line of business as secure enough.
Therefore most started by financing their operations on their own. None of the designers
interviewed have accessed any government facilities for help, either for exporting
assistance through the Department of Trade and Industry or through local initiatives like the
eThekwini (Durban) Municipality’s Business Support Unit that has been established to assist
small businesses within Durban. The designers stated that they find it very difficult to find
the time to source such assistance, as their days are spent generating income through
conceptualising and manufacturing their garment lines.
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