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This table shows that there are far more CMTs in KwaZulu-Natal than in the Western Cape,
and this correlates with the knowledge that, by comparison with the Western Cape,
Durban has always focused on mass market products whereas the Cape has focused on
the higher-end market. Westhuizen was able to determine through interviews that the
CMTs have to compete with cheaper imports, but are also forced to compete amongst
each other for orders from the large retail chains who can drive the prices down; for
example, a CMT can receive R18.50 per women’s shirt for an order from retailers, which is
then sold by the retailer at R249.00 (Westhuizen, 2006:11).
The policy of global integration has resulted in the clothing industry being subjected to
international competition, forcing clothing manufacturers to re-evaluate their methods of
doing business in order to not only compete and survive in the global economy, but also to
sustain an important labour-intensive industrial sector that contributes significantly to the
economy of the country, details of which will be given subsequently.
The South African clothing industry has had to come to terms with the former “Fordist”
method of production (mass production) having shifted to a “post-Fordist” means of
production. The latter production methods entailed more flexibility, shorter runs and the
multi-skilling of staff (Harrison, 1996). The change in production methodology arose
because of the need to meet the changing demands of the consumer who chooses
quality and variety over price (Dunne, 1998:15). Evidence contrary to the presumption that
price does not factor into consumer behaviour is reflected by the increase of imports from
Asia providing a larger portion of the South African consumer base with the opportunity to
purchase apparel of fair quality at affordable prices.
In order to compete in the global market, South African clothing businesses in the formal
sector have found ways to circumnavigate the cost of employment by changing the
relationship between employer and employee in the form of subcontracting or re-
engaging the employees as independent contractors (Bennett, 2003:ix, Fakude, 2001). The
objective of these changed conditions of service is to enable these companies to reduce
the cost of labour (Westhuizen, 2003). The rationale behind such policy decisions is to
facilitate reduction in production costs, thereby providing the space for local companies
to compete internationally.
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